LCW 19: ‘Inscribed: The Craft of Cutting Letters’

Inscribed: The Craft of Cutting Letters

 

In my opinion, typography is the most underappreciated design field often neglected by the public. The term typography can be defined as the style, arrangement, and appearance of letters, numbers, and symbols; it is a means of visual communication. We are surrounded by all kinds of fonts in our daily lives, yet few people (aside from designers) take much notice of them. Before computers were imvented, engraving was one of the most important techniques used in printmaking, mapmaking, and book illustrations.

Besides printing, the craft of engraving and carving letters on metal, stone or glass also has a long and rich heritage. Hand engravings and cravings can often be seen on functional, decorative and commemorative objects – from signage, clocks and jewellery to trophies and coins.

 

Inscribed: The Craft of Cutting Letters

Inscribed: The Craft of Cutting Letters  Inscribed: The Craft of Cutting Letters

 

The exhibition at The Goldsmiths’ Centre “Inscribed: The Craft of Cutting Letterspresents an interesting selection of artists’ work, alongside loans from the Goldsmiths’ Company and other collections, to provide a unique insight into the processes used by contemporary craftspeople to design, craft and carve text. The display reveals the precision needed for this craftsmanship – not only do you need patience, the right pressure but also good eye sight.

During the Lonodn Craft week, workshops, demonstrations and walk were organised to accompany the exhibition. I attended the ‘Text in the City’ walk which focused on urban typography that we often miss while rushing around the city (see my next entry).

 

Inscribed: The Craft of Cutting Letters

Inscribed: The Craft of Cutting Letters

Inscribed: The Craft of Cutting Letters  Inscribed: The Craft of Cutting Letters

Inscribed: The Craft of Cutting Letters

Inscribed: The Craft of Cutting Letters  Inscribed: The Craft of Cutting Letters

Inscribed: The Craft of Cutting Letters

Inscribed: The Craft of Cutting Letters  Inscribed: The Craft of Cutting Letters

Inscribed: The Craft of Cutting Letters

 

 

 

 

Kawai Kanjiro Memorial Museum in Kyoto

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I have wanted to visit Japanese potter, Kawai Kanjiro‘s former house – now his Memorial Museum for a long time. Yet for some reason, I never made it until this trip… it was a timely visit as the museum was like a quiet sanctuary compared to hassle and bustle in the centre of the city.

Born 1890, Kawai Kanjiro was a prominent figure in Mingei (Japanese folk art) movement founded by Japanese philosopher, Yanagi Soetsu, in the 1920s and 30s, as well as the studio pottery movements led by Bernard Leach. According to Yanagi, everyday and utilitarian objects made by the anonymous craftsmen are ‘beyond beauty and ugliness’. They are inexpensive and functional ware made for ordinary people, rather than ornaments to be placed on shelves as decorations.

Kawai acquainted and collaborated with British potter, Bernard Leach (who founded Leach Pottery with another well-known Japanese potter, Shoji Hamada) throughout his life, hence he often combined English with Japanese elements together to create pottery pieces that are asymmetrical.

 

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Luckily, Kawai‘s beautiful wooden farm house seems to be under the tourists’ radar, so I was able to wander and absorb the subdued and tranquil setting. Designed by Kawai and built by his brother in 1937, the house had been left untouched since his death in 1966. It is not hard to see the influence of Zen Buddhism and the philosophy of wabi sabi (the aesthetics often associated with ‘imperfection’) at this house, in particular when he talks of ’emptiness’ in the his essay titles “We Do Not Work Alone”:

“When you become so absorbed in your work that beauty flows naturally then your work truly becomes a work of art… Everything that is, is not. Everything is, yet at the same time, nothing is. I myself am the emptiest of all.”

 

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One of the most impressive sights at the house is his huge kiln at the back, which has been well preserved. Beside pottery, Kawai also did wood carving, furniture design, metal casting and calligraphy, and these works can be seen around the house/museum. I found the museum and his work utterly inspiring, and I think it is possible to imagine the kind of person he was from his craft, designs and writings. The aesthetics of this house is so sublime and understated that it would take some time to grasp it, and you may need to return again to appreciate it fully.

 

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Hong Kong’s streetsigns & urban typography

Sunbeam Theatre

Neon lights and advertising billboards outside of the iconic Sunbeam Theatre in North Point

 

This post is a follow-up of the previous one on Hong Kong’s urban typography… Over the years, I have documented the city’s streetscape and the relationships between visual communications, architecture, and its perpetually changing identity.

Hong Kong has always known for its neon signage, yet since the 1990s, the industry has declined rapidly, as building regulations have tightened due to safety and structural reasons, and the traditional neon signs are now replaced by the cheaper LED ones.

 

sammy's kitchen ltd signage

Sammy’s Kitchen Ltd signage

 

One of the city’s iconic signage was a giant neon cow suspended above a steakhouse in the Western District since 1978. The restaurant’s founder, Sammy Yip, designed the 10-foot-tall and 16-foot-wide neon sign and it was then handcrafted by sifus (masters) who burned and welded the shapes in their studios. Sadly, the city’s Buildings Department decided the sign was unsafe and ordered it removed in 2015. By chance, I took the photograph above (without acknowledging the unfortunate future fate of this signage) before its removal, which subsequently encourages me to continue to document Hong Kong’s ephemeral cityscape.

 

luk yu tea house

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mido cafe  Neon sign of a pawn shop in Wan Chai

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Top row: The facade and neon signage of Luk Yu Tea House in Central; 2nd row: a trendy restaurant in Wai Chai; 3rd left: Mido Cafe in Yau Ma Tei; 3rd right: Neon sign of a pawn shop in Wan Chai; Bottom: An hourly-rate love hotel on Nathan road has three types of signage!

 

The best resources on Hong Kong’s neon signage can be found on the interactive online exhibition website: Mobile M+: NEONSIGNS.HK launched by M+, the new museum for visual culture in the West Kowloon cultural district. It features over 4,000 photos and personal stories of neon signs from members of the public, and it is a fantastic platform that pays tribute to this unique dying art form and traditional craftsmanship. I particularly love the short documentary by cinematographer, Christopher Doyle, on Hong Kong’s neon world. In the film, we can trace Doyle‘s inspirations and how the neon signage has influenced his visual style in films such as Chungking Express and Fallen Angels directed by Hong Kong film director Wong Kar Wai.

 

“Gleam Series” by Alexandre Farto aka Vhils

“Gleam Series” by Alexandre Farto aka Vhils

 

Christopher Doyle: Filming in the Neon World

 

Aside from neon signs, Hong Kong’s cluttered signage is ubiquitous and unique to this city. The overwhelming amount of visual information is in sync with its dense high-rise and chaotic streetscape. Every sign competes with another, and it is impossible to digest all the information at once… hence walking down Nathan Road in Kowloon can be an exhilarating and draining experience for foreign tourists.

 

temple street

central signage

Top: Temple Street; Bottom: Soho from the escalator

 

In the old days, small shop owners used to appoint scholars or renowned calligraphers to inscribe shop names by hand. Unfortunately, the handwritten calligraphy skills have been replaced by computerised print technology since the 1990s. Handwritten calligraphy gradually faded from the main roads of the commercial distrists, resulting in the demise of this unique trade and the loss of calligraphic artisans.

 

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Handwritten calligraphy for shops

 

Traditionally, gilded signboards symbolise the reputation of the shops. The gold-plated or painted gold calligraphic characters are seen as a status symbol for these shops. The characters are carved out of wood as either engraved or embossed by artisans. And the embossing effect is more challenging than engraving because of the Chinese cursive script style. Aside from wood, other materials such as metal and acrylic are also used for shop signage.

 

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Embossed or engraved calligraphic signage for shops

 

Yet, the best places to spot traditional gold-leaf gilding techniques are at temples, monasteries and shrines. Often you will find two verses of a poem on the sides of the entrance, and if you look at them closely, you will see that every calligrapher has his/her unique writing style. The style can be bold, elegant, robust, refined and subtle… and this style would – hopefully – be synonymous with the identity of the shops or temples.

 

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Temples and shrines often showcase gold-leaf gilded name and a poem on the sides of the entrance

 

This is only a glimpse of what is around us all the time… you don’t need to be a graphic designer or typographer to appreciate the diverse signage that communicates to us daily when we walk down the streets of the city we live in. As much as I love spending time in nature, I also love seeing quirky and wonderful man-made sights that found in vibrant cities. And urban typography-spotting is an activity that all of can enjoy whilst everyone else around you is looking down at their mobile phones. Look up and you can be pleasantly surprised from time to time.

 

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“Typography and the sea of words” exhibition at CACHe HK

TYPOGRAPHY CACHE

CACHE HK  CACHE HK

The building and courtyard of CACHe on Western Street, Sai Yun Pun

 

In recent years, an influx of international art galleries and art fairs has somehow transformed Hong Kong – the infamous cultural desert – into Asia’s glossy art hub. To be honest, I am not sure if this has had much impact on the general public, but at least art is longer seen as totally inaccessible.

Yet these art galleries focus mostly on the commercial aspect and target at wealthy collectors locally or from Mainland China; it is seldom to come across a gallery that dedicates to Hong Kong’s unique heritage, arts and culture.

Luckily, the non-profit conservation group CACHe based in Sai Yun Pun is a here to fill the gap. It is a hidden gem that is rarely mentioned in guidebooks, and not even many locals are aware of its existence.

 

TYPOGRAPHY CACHE

TYPOGRAPHY CACHE

“Typography and the sea of words” exhibition at CACHe’s gallery

 

Located in a Grade II historic building, which is formerly the Western Plague Hospital and Western Public Dispensary, the Conservancy Association Centre for Heritage (CACHe) was established in 2005 to promote the conservation of history, cultures and heritages in Hong Kong. It regularly organises community heritage workshops, thematic talks, excursion to historic architectures, heritage cultural tours, exhibitions and oral history workshops for the public, schools, organisations and corporations.

In the last few years, I have paid several visits to CACHe when I was in the city, and I have always enjoyed their exhibitions that resolve around the local heritage and culture. Their last exhibition “Typography and the Sea of Words – The Study of Hong Kong Urban Landscape” was one of my favourites as it focused on the often neglected aesthetics of the city: urban Chinese typography.

 

TYPOGRAPHY CACHE  TYPOGRAPHY CACHE

TYPOGRAPHY CACHE  TYPOGRAPHY CACHE

Hong Kong’s unique calligraphic signage

 

The exhibition showcased various calligraphic styles that used to dominate the city’s landscape (before the international chained shops and glossy shopping malls took over), and the importance of preserving the techniques and the dying art of handwritten signage.

It also included interviews with several handwriting artisans in the city – from inscribing shop signs, letterpress printing, neon sign making, stencil making, acrylic and wood sign making to computer font design.

 

TYPOGRAPHY CACHE

TYPOGRAPHY CACHE  TYPOGRAPHY CACHE

TYPOGRAPHY CACHE

Interesting typography is all around us if we pay more attention to it

 

There was a free catalogue that accompanied the exhibition, but unfortunately, there was none left by the time I visited. I begged the staff to give me display copy and she was quite reluctant, but later, she went into her office and found me a last copy for me to take home. I think the informative catalogue is priceless as it documents the vanishing art form and heritage of Hong Kong. The loss of an important craftsmanship and city identity saddens me a great deal, but it also makes me become more aware and appreciative of the preserved sights and aesthetics that are still around that make this city special.

 

CACHE HK

CACHE HK  VINTAGE POSTER

CACHE HK

VINTAGE POSTER  VINTAGE POSTER

VINTAGE SCHOOL BOOK  VINTAGE SCHOOL BOOK

CACHE HK 

Another wonderful past exhibition: “Unfinished Old textbook” displaying old textbooks and teaching materials that evoked old classroom memories, and the cultures and values of life advocated by the community.

 

Maze Hill Pottery’s open studio

Maze Hill pottery  Maze Hill pottery

Top left: The disused ticket office-turned pottery studio; Top right: Lisa Hammond’s beautiful Soda & Shino glaze pottery

 

London is full of hidden gems, not only they are off tourists’ radar, but many are also unknown to Londoners. Since I live north of the river, I am quite oblivious to events that take place beyond Bermondsey or the Design Museum. We Londoners rarely venture out of our comfort zones (i.e. the zones we live or work in), thus we are like tourists when we step into the unknown!

It was an invitation that brought me to Maze Hill Pottery‘s open studio in Greenwich. The 2-day annual open studio event provided a rare opportunity for visitors to purchase beautiful handmade pottery by renowned pottery artist Lisa Hammond and her apprentices at significantly reduced prices.

 

Maze Hill pottery

Maze Hill pottery  Maze Hill pottery

Top: Darren Ellis‘ pottery; Bottom left: Lisa Hammond’s Shino chawan tea bowl and sake bottles; Bottom right: The outdoor workshop area

 

The studio is situated in the former ticket office of Maze Hill Station, which opened in 1873. Lisa turned the disused office into a pottery studio in the mid 1990s and built the first soda glaze trolley kiln in the UK at the back of the studio.

The studio also offers pottery workshops and evening courses, where students can learn the techniques of studio pottery in a professional working studio environment.

 

Maze Hill pottery

Maze Hill pottery  Maze Hill pottery

 

I wonder if BBC’s “The Great Pottery Throw Down (the pottery version of the hugely popular TV show “The Great British Bake off”) has triggered the public’s interests in pottery?

Regardless of the TV show, the studio’s reputation and exquisite pottery pieces have gained support from locals over the years, and so all the best bargains were snapped up as soon as the kiln was opened in the morning! Luckily, I did manage to pick up noodle bowls and mug reduced to prices cheaper than the mass manufactured pieces from Habitat!

After some mulled wine and snacks, I left the studio feeling satisfied with my purchase, and the fact that I have supported a local pottery studio. London doesn’t need more chained stores run by big corporations, we need more independent stores and studios run by passionate artisans, craftsmen, designers, bakers, booksellers and even corner shop owners who truly want to make a difference in this city.

Islamic designs, architecture & calligraphy

The last entry on Andalusia is about Islamic designs and calligraphy.

My fascination with the Middle East began when I was kid, thanks to the Japanese cartoon: ‘The adventures of Sinbad’. Over the years, I have traveled to several Muslim countries in the Middle East and North Africa; although the experiences varied each time, my interest in the Islamic arts, designs and architecture has not diminished. This was one of the reasons for choosing Andalusia as my holiday destination; besides, with the unstable situation in the Middle East, Spain seemed like a safer option.

 

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Top main: The Great Mosque, Cordoba; 2nd row right, 3rd row & last row right: Real Alcazar, Seville; Last row left: Cathedral, Seville

 

Islamic art and design is based on its religious belief, values, culture and its advance knowledge on mathematics. Due to religious reasons, humans or animals are prohibited in religious art and design, thus ornament became its central theme. Almost opposite to the minimalist style, Islamic designs are often colourful, complex and made up of repetitive patterns. Geometric patterns, vegetal patterns (i.e. arabesque) and calligraphy are the three non-figural types of decoration in Islamic art and design. These decorative arts and designs are often accompanied by traditional craftsmanship; and in Andalusia, the best examples can be seen at the Real Alcazar in Seville, The Great Mosque in Cordoba and The Alhambra in Granada.

Architecture 

Tiles, mosaics, arches (esp. horseshoe), columns and domes are common features in Islamic architecture. But since the use of costly materials is discouraged in the religion, brick, brass, clay, stucco, stone, and wood are used skillfully to create exquisite features and design in Islamic architecture. The architectural motifs are often octagonal or star-shaped and they can be seen on floors, roofs, walls and fountains.

Roofs:

 

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Main & 2nd row left: Palacio de Pilatos, Seville; 2nd row right & 3rd row middle & right: Real Alacazar, Seville; 3rd row left: Alhambra, Granada; 4th row: Palacio de la Madraza; Last row left: Great Mosque, Cordoba; Last row right: Arab bath, Granada

 

The use of the symmetrical and geometric systems create harmony in Islamic designs and architecture, which is consistent with the Islamic belief that all creation is harmoniously interrelated. And this is most evident in the designs of doors and windows, where balance and symmetry is an important feature.

Doors and windows:

 

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Calligraphy

Since I started learning Arabic calligraphy about 18 months ago, I became more aware of the use of calligraphy in Islamic art, design and architecture. There are many types of scripts, I started with the simple Ruqʿah, then moved onto the more cursive and elegant Diwani, and will be learning Naskh next. However, I am most interested in Kufic, a more constructed and squarish/ geometric style that is often used and seen in mosques and palaces. Most of these scripts are quotations from the Koran ( something I have been practising lately), and they are so well incorporated into the overall designs that they seldom would look out of place.

 

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Arabic calligraphy books are hard to find in the U.K., and the ones on sale are usually fairly basic. In Andalusia, I was quite glad to see many books on the topic, though they are mostly written in French. However, I was still excited to see calligraphy widely used in architecture and displayed in Muslim institutions.

When I started learning calligraphy, I appreciated it as an art form and as a meditative activity; now I realised the importance of understanding the religion, language and culture behind this artistic expression. I doubt I will ever get a grasp of the language, but I hope to continue to learn more and practise this beautiful art form.

 

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Top row: beautiful contemporary Arabic calligraphy work inside an Islamic centre in Granada; Bottom left: Calligraphy on tiles inside the Cathedral in Seville; Bottom right: Books on Arabic calligraphy

 

The art of Arabic calligraphy

I am not sure if there is such a term, but I think I am a “compulsive learner”. I constantly want to learn new skills even though I barely have the time to pursue them.

I have always been interested in different cultures especially Arabic, partly due to my fascination with its arts, crafts and architecture. I have wanted to learn Arabic calligraphy for a long time but was not able to find the right course at the right time. At the British Museum’s Arabia Late event earlier this year, I tried it out for the first time at the free workshop and it triggered my enthusiasm once again.

 

Calligraphy work at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York

 

After another half day workshop in the summer, I finally found a longer weekly course that allows me to learn it properly. Like every new skill, I struggled a lot initially and got quite frustrated with myself because I didn’t know how to control the qalam ( the pen made of reed or bamboo). I have learned Chinese calligraphy before but using a soft brush is hardly the same as using a qalam. Though when it comes to learning new skills, the most important elements are always: dedication, patience, concentration and practice.

 

Work by calligrapher, Behnam Eczeer

 

I lacked patience at the beginning but slowly through practice, my skills improved and now I find the process extremely meditative. My calligraphy teacher has spent most of his life perfecting the art form and at his exhibition opening two weeks ago, I was able to truly appreciate the effort and skills behind his work.

I don’t aspire to be a master calligrapher, but I enjoy learning and writing the script, it’s not just about the techniques, it is also a great opportunity for me to practise mindfulness. Despite my job requirement, I dislike sitting in front of the computer all day long, so learning to ‘write’ with pen and ink feels like going back to basics, and it I think it’s necessary before I forget how to write again!

 

Behnam Eczeer‘s calligraphy exhibition has been extended until early Dec. It is open to the public every Wednesdays 6 to 9 pm at Salam House, 6-10 Lyons Place, Maida Vale, NW8 8NL.

Also, there are many beautiful calligraphy works at the new British Library exhibition: Mughal India: Art, Culture and Empire ( now until 2nd April 2013).