Architectural wonders of old Shanghai

Posted on April 15, 2014 by Toothpicker

My last entry on Shanghai continues with the theme of architecture and the fascinating stories and people behind them…

The former residence of Liu Jisheng designed by László Hudec

Out of all the amazing buildings that I visited during my trip in Shanghai, my favourite was the Shanghai Writers Association/The former residence of Liu Jisheng in the former French Concession designed and built by László Hudec (675 Julu Lu) in 1926-7. I only learned of this building while I was having coffee at La Mer cafe, which is situated at the front of the building. The friendly cafe owner told me that the cafe used to be the garage of the villa, and she encouraged me to explore the building after my coffee. I probably would not have done so if it wasn’t for her because I didn’t want to be arrested for trespassing!

Interestingly, I did not encounter anyone during my ‘exploration’, there was no other visitor nor guards on site… Walking alone in the garden and inside the villa, I became slightly melancholic and began to imagine its glorious past. Aside from the ground floor, the floors upstairs are semi-abandoned, yet from the splendid chandeliers and stained glass windows, one could imagine how the place looked when it was occupied. It must have been a fabulous setting for dinner parties! But the ‘soul’ of the villa is its garden/the Psyche founatin… during my stay in Shanghai, I did not see the sun until this (last) day, and it made the garden look even more stunning.

It was only after my visit that I learned of the ‘love story’ behind this villa and garden, which is also considered to be the most romantic building ever built by László Hudec.

Liu Jisheng‘s former residence on Julu Lu

Liu Jisheng was a coal magnate in Shanghai in the 1920s, and he bought this plot of land as a gift to his wife, Rose on her 40th birthday. She then appointed the star architect of the time, László Hudec to design the Italian Renaissance style villa and its Greek-style garden. Hudec was inspired by the Greek myth of Eros and Psyche, and the layout of the villa resembles British artist, Frederic Leighton‘s “The Bath of Psyche”.

The couple left Shanghai for Hong Kong in 1948 and they stayed together until Liu‘s death in 1962. She died two years later and they were buried side by side in Montreal, Canada. The garden’s statue of Psyche survived the upheavals of the Cultural Revolution thanks to its gardener who hid it away in the greenhouse. The gardener continued to work here until his death and now his son has taken over his job as the guardian of the garden.

I love this story, but even without knowing the story, it is hard not to fall in love with this villa and garden. I believe that architecture has its own ‘soul’, and this place is definitely very special, if you go in with an open heart, you will ‘feel’ the love, poignancy and its glorious past.

Moller Villa Hotel

The former Moller villa is a grand castle-like villa and garden not far from the the former residence of Liu Jisheng. The villa has been bought by the Heng Shan group and has been renovated and turned into Heng Shan Moller Villa Hotel (30 South Shanxi Road) in 2001. The Scandinavian-style (with Chinese architectural elements) villa was designed and built by the renowned Allied Architects for Eric Moller, a Swedish shipping magnate and horse-racing fanatic in1936.

Although there was a rumour about the design of this fairytale-like villa being based on a sketch by Moller‘s youngest and favourite daughter, it was denied by her during an interview. Like most other privately-owned mansions in the city, the villa was taken over by the Communist army in 1949 and Moller left Shanghai in 1950, but died in a plane crash a few years later.

The Villa also has an impressive garden covering an area of about 2,000 square meters. Being the chair of the Shanghai Horse Racing Club, Moller erected a bronze statue of his beloved horse Blonic Hill on the lawn of the garden which still can be seen today.

Top: Mansion hotel; 3rd row: Russian Orthodox Mission Cathedral; Bottom row: Elasu building on Shanxi South Road

There are several heritage hotels in the area and one of them is Mansion hotel (82 Xin Le Road). The original villa was a club house given to Du Yue-Sheng (also known as “Big-Eared Du”, China’s most powerful triad boss) by his chief financial controller, Jin Ting Sun. Designed by the French architect Lafayette in 1932, the villa became a famous landmark as the gangsters’ headquarters and where lavish parties took place. Many of the original furniture and historical artifacts can still be seen at the hotel today. Du’s former residence in the area has also been turned into a hotel called Donghu Hotel on Donghu Lu.

Opposite the Mansion hotel is a blue-domed building that looks rather out of place… it is the Russian Orthodox Mission Cathedral,built in 1937 for the Russian community in Shanghai at the time. Religious services here ceased in 1962 and the building was used as a warehouse (bizarre). While much of the cathedral’s stained glass was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution, the Committee of Cultural Heritage restored the building in 1988 and soon after that, it was turned into a bar/nightclub known as The Dome (even more bizarre). Now the cathedral is a museum/art gallery, and it hosted its first service in 51 years last May.

Shanghai museum of arts and crafts

In my previous entry, I wrote about the Shanghai Museum of arts and crafts (79 Fenyang Lu, near Taiyuan Lu), and here is a bit more about its architecture and history. Built in 1905 for the French Concession’s Chamber of Industry director, this three-story late French Renaissance mansion is one of the most gorgeous mansions in Shanghai. The mansion became the residence of Chen Yi, Shanghai’s first mayor after 1949, and eventually turned into Shanghai Arts and Crafts Research Centre in 1960. Now visitors can still admire the mansion’s marble staircases, stained-glass windows, dark wooden paneling, ceiling beams, original fireplaces and a lovely lawn.

Shanghai’s Children Palace/ former Kadoorie family’s mansion

I stumbled upon the China Welfare Institute’s Children’s Palace (64 Yan’an Xi Lu, near Huashan Lu) by accident… I saw the colonial style mansion from across the street and was immediately drawn to it. I had no idea if it was open to public or not but since the door was opened, I went inside. I then found out that this ‘palace’ provides after-school programs for children in music, art, science, sports, and computers, which was set up by Soong Ching-ling (Madame Sun Yat-sen) in 1953. I was rather gobsmacked by the scale and grandness of this palace, the marble ballroom was especially magnificent, it would seem normal to see this in the U.K. or Europe but in Shanghai… I was astounded. At the time of my visit, there was an exhibition on the history of Chinese illustrations in several rooms, and although the exhibition was very interesting, I was rather distracted by the backdrop/ interior of the mansion.

It all made sense when I found out that this opulent mansion used to belong to one of Asia’s wealthiest Jewish family, the Kadoories. Built in the 1920s by British architect, Graham Brown for Sir Elly Kadoorie, this mansion took 4 years to complete and was known as the ‘Marble Hall’. Covering an area of 1,500 square meters, the two-storey mansion has more than 20 rooms, and white Italian marble can be seen everywhere. During the war, some members from the family were put into detention camp while some were placed under house arrest here. After the invasion of the Japanese, it served as a recreation centre for British and American soldiers until it eventually became the Children’s Palace. The Kadoorie family left Shanghai for Hong Kong where their family business continued to flourish until today.

Top row & 2nd row left: the former residence of Dr. Sun Yat Sen; 2nd row middle, right & bottom right: Former Residence of Zhou Enlai; Bottom left: the quiet and calm Xiangshan Rd

One of the popular tourist attractions in Shanghai is the former residence of Dr. Sun Yat Sen (7 Xiangshan Rd, near Sinan Rd) in the French Concession. Dr Sun Yat-sen was the founder of the Republic of China, and he lived here with his wife, Soong Ching Ling from 1918 until his death in 1925, and Soong continued to live here until 1937 when the Japanese army occupied Shanghai. Eight years later, when the Japanese were defeated, Soong offered to provide her home as a memorial site to commemorate of her husband. The European style house now displays most of the original furnishings, historical artifacts, documents and photos. The house also has a back garden and the overall ambience in and outside of the house is low-key and calm, which is very different from the bustling city life that is normally seen elsewhere in the city.

About 5 minutes from this house is another former residence (73 Sinan Road) of a well-known Chinese politician, Zhou Enlai. Zhou was the Chinese Prime Minister in the 1960s and 70s and he lived briefly here in 1946 to 1947. The house was used more as an office than residence, and it was quite basic and modest in style.

The newly renovated, Sinan Mansions

Yet contrary to the subtlety seen at these two former residences, the Sinan Mansions ( situated in between them) reveal a new and different China: it’s all about luxury. The 51 Western-style houses built around the 1920s have been renovated and turned into luxury condos, accompanied by a string of high-end restaurants, cafes, bars ( including a Johnnie Walker house) and a luxury hotel, Hotel Massenet.

To be honest, I am not entirely convinced about this ‘new’ development, the place looks more like Xintiandi (i.e. Disneyland) to me. The facade of the buildings look too ‘polished’ and the ambience does not feel at all authentic. Interestingly, the entire street and many of the eateries were almost empty when I was there, it seems that this new playground for the wealthy Shanghainese is yet to be hottest spot in town.

Duolun Cultural Street: 2nd & 3rd row right: former residence of H.H.Kung; 5th row middle: Old film cafe; Bottom left: a long mural featuring famous Chinese writers and intellects from the 1920s-30s; right: former residence of Bai Chongxi

In the historical Hongkou district, there is a famous road called Duolun Road (previously Darroch Road, named after a British missionary), originally built in 1911 as a residential road. The private residences were initially built by Chinese industrialists but later attracted many famous left-wing writers and even politicians. In 1998, the local government started a regeneration project to conserve and restore the historic buildings and turn them into museums, galleries, cafes or craft shops. And as a result, the 550 metres long road was also turned into a pedestrian street.

There are many interesting architecture on this road, and one stood out particularly due to its white Islamic-style facade. No.250 was built in 1924 and it was former residence of H. H. Kung, who was the richest man in China in the early 20th century, and the husband of Soong Ai-ling, one of the Soong sisters.

No. 210 was the former residence of Bai Chongxi (a General of Republic of China and a prominent Chinese Nationalist Muslim leader), and No.123 is the nostalgic Old film cafe that pays tribute to Shanghai’s silver screen and occasionally shows reels from the ’20s and ’30s.

Duolun Cultural Street: Top right, 2nd row & 3rd row middle: Xi Shi Zhong lou/Bell Tower; 3rd row left & 4th row left: Fitch Memorial Church; 5th row left: a bronze statue of Uchiyama; 5th row middle: a bookstore selling vintage Chinese classics; 5th row right & bottom row right: Duolun Museum of Modern Art

Another prominent building on this street is the 18.5m-tall Xi Shi Zhong lou/Bell Tower, named after a well-known book title by famous writer, Lu Xun. And not far from this is the Fitch Memorial Church (or Hongde Tang), named after George Field Fitch. Built in 1928, this unique East meets West style architecture is the only one of its sort to survive in Shanghai.

Outside of the Neishan bookstore stands a bronze statue of Uchiyama Kanzo (a good friend of Lu Xun), the owner of Uchiyama bookstore established in 1917. The bookstore published many works that espoused revolutionary ideals. It moved to the nearby crossing of Shanyin Road and Sichuan Road North in 1929, but was finally closed by the Kuomintang in 1945.

One popular and newer addition to this road is the Duolun Museum of Modern Art (no.27), a first state-owned non-profit institution that is dedicated to Chinese contemporary art. Covering more than 14400 square feet, this 7-storey building is worth a visit if you are in the area but not a ‘must-see’ sight.

Top left & 2nd left: Lu Xun’s former residence; Top row right, 3rd row: Lun Xun museum; 2nd row middle: the famous ‘love’ postbox on Tian’ai Road; 2d row right: the former site of Uchiyama bookstore; bottom row left: another former residence of Lu Xun

Although Lu Xun never joined the Communist party, he was a left-wing writer, and his ‘presence’ can be seen everywhere in this area where he once lived and worked. Not only there is a park dedicated to him (now being renovated) which contains his tomb and the Lu Xun museum. His former residence ( Building 9, Lane 132, Shanyin Lu, near Sichuan Bei Lu) is also open to the public via guided tours. This three-story red-brick townhouse was where he lived from 1933 until his death in October 1936.

The museum is worth visiting even if you are not familiar with the author’s work as there are many historical documents, artifacts and photos of the unsettling period in China during his life time. Lu Xun was also the leading figure in the Modern Woodcut Movement in China, and he used to organise practical workshop in woodcuts, taught by Uchiyama Kakichi, the younger brother of the bookstore owner Kanzo. I love the wood-block prints used on most of his book covers, which can be seen at the museum.

N.B. There is also a famous green post box situated at the supposedly most ‘romantic’ road in Shanghai, Tian’ai Road ( the Chinese translation is “sweet love”). Every letter sent from this post box will be marked with a special mark, bearing the affection from the letter sender to the recipient, hence it gets filled up weeks before Valentine’s day each year!

Interesting architectural details can be seen everywhere in Shanghai

Shanghai’s Art deco architecture

Posted on April 10, 2014 by Toothpicker

Cathay Theatre/cinema (1932)

Even though highrises have been built over the past two decades in this mega city, Shanghai is still full of fascinating historical architecture notably art deco ones. The Bund is probably the best place to appreciate its glorious past… when I visited Shanghai 12 years ago, I asked my friend to take me to the famous Art Deco style Peace Hotel ( now renamed as Fairmont Peace Hotel) one evening but I was disappointed with its rather shabby and dated interior. On this trip, I paid the hotel another visit after its 3-year renovation by a joint effort between the Fairmont group, Jin Jiang International Group and design and architectural team Hirsch Bedner Associates (HBA) and Allied Architects International. And I was very glad to see that the hotel has been restored to its former glory (see below), it is absolutely stunning and should not to be missed.

The North Building was formerly known as the Sassoon House, it was designed by P & T Architects Limited (Palmer and Turner) and commissioned by Sir Victor Sassoon, an Anglo-Jewish tycoon. The 10-storey building was completed in 1929, and six of its floors used to house Cathay Hotel, which was known as the “Number One mansion in the Far East” before the Communist government took over in 1949. The hotel reopened as Peace hotel in 1956, and it is especially renowned for its legendary Old Jazz Band.

The Peninsula hotel nearby also has an art deco flavour to it, though it is a brand new building that was only built in 2009. Another interesting building is no.27, The House of Roosevelt, formerly the Jardine Matheson Building, which was designed by Stewardson & Spence and completed in 1922. Now the building houses the Rolex Flagship Store, the largest wine cellar in China, two restaurants, a rooftop bar and a private club.

Top, 2nd & 3rd row left: Fairmont Peace Hotel (1929); 3rd row right & bottom row left: The House of Roosevelt (1922); Bottom row middle & right: Peninsula Hotel (2009)

One of the most famous architects of the 1930s in Shanghai was the Austro-Hungarian, László Hudec (1893-1958) who built over 100 buildings spanning 29 years (1918-1947). Two of his famous art deco work can still be seen on West Nanjing Lu: The Grand Theatre (1931-1933, now The Grand cinema) and the Park hotel (1931-1934), which reminds me very much of the highrise in New York built around the same period (see below). In fact, this 22-storey hotel was once the tallest building in Asia from 1934 to1958. The building next to it is the former YMCA building (1928), which has an interesting facade and was renovated in 2009 and turned into Sports Club hotel.

In the nearby People’s Park, there is also another art deco style building, the former Shanghai Art Museum which has moved from this site at the end of 2012. Constructed in 1933, the building was used as the former clubhouse of the Shanghai Race Club and has a prominent clock tower (see below) which houses a restaurant/bar, Kathleen’s 5.

Top row left: Grand theatre by László Hudec (1933); 2nd & 3rd row left: The Paramount Theatre (1932); 3rd row middle: Park Hotel by László Hudec (1934); 3rd row & bottom row right: the former Shanghai art museum; bottom row left: Shanghai Sports club hotel /former foreign YMCA building (1928)

In the former French Concession, there are two beautiful art deco entertainment buildings, Cathay cinema (870 Huaihai Zhong Lu, near Maoming Lu) and The Paramont. The Cathay opened in 1932 and was designed by Czech architect C.H. Gonda and it was the largest theatre in its day with 978 seats. The Paramont (218 Yuyuan Road, near Wanhangdu Lu) was designed by architect S. J. Young and was completed in 1933. This was the largest and most notorious ballroom in Shanghai before it was taken over by the Communists army in 1949. The ballroom was rescued from demolition by a Taiwanese businessman in 2001 and was renovated and reopened as a music and dance venue.

Nearby there is another well-known art deco building, Changde apartment, also known as the Eddington House (195 Changde Rd). The building was built in 1936 and it is especially known for its former famous resident, Eileen Chang, a Shanghainese female writer ( her work includes “Lust, Caution“) who lived here for many years. There is even a cafe, L’s Book Café Wine that sells books by Chang and some on the history of Shanghai in a nostalgic setting.

Changde Apartments (1936) on Changde Lu & L’s Book cafe wine interior

Art deco elements can also be seen at the restored Ferguson Lane (376 Wukang Rd) and at houses/ buildings nearby. The area is full of art deco gems that is best appreciated on foot.

Top left: Ferguson Lane; the rest: houses in the former French Concession

In the northeast Hongkou area, the art deco style 1933 Shanghai (10 Shajing Rd, near Wusong Rd) is a must for all architecture lovers (see my earlier post here). The historical area used to be home to many Jewish refugees in the 1930s and 40s, and now it still has many historical sights and interesting architecture including the Shikumen-style buildings that are disappearing quickly in recent years.

Shanghai is often regarded as the Art deco capital of the east, but like many Asian cities, historical buildings are under threat by property developers, I can only wish that the government and locals will help to protect these beautiful buildings from the past.

Main: a building in Hongkou; 2nd row left & right: 1933 Shanghai

Eat, drink & shop in Shanghai French Concession

Posted on March 31, 2014 by Toothpicker

The former French Concession in Shanghai is a large and historical where you will find beautiful colonial architecture, Western-style eateries, cafes and bars as well as glossy shopping malls and independent shops selling fashion, gifts, furniture, design and home accessories.

This is not a comprehensive guide, it is only a rough guide to some of the shops in the area:

2nd row: Retro Revo; 3nd row left: Casa Casa; 3rd row middle & right: Brut Cake; Bottom: Piling Palang

Anfui Lu:

Piling Palang (no.183) – Founded in 2009 by Chinese designer, Deng Bingbing, the colourful objects here are inspired by ancient Chinese symbolic motifs, patterns and shapes. Most of products are skillfully crafted by local craftsmen using ceramic, cloisonné or lacquer, and are infused with contemporary elements to create decorative or functional pieces.

Casa Casa (no. 201) – A furniture store featuring a selection of modern and classic furniture and home accessories from top international designer brands.

Brut Cake (no.232) Founded by Taiwanese designer, Nicole Teng, most of the home accessories here are handmade from recycled materials. There are also reclaimed/re-upholstered furniture and ceramics with a rustic feel. The products and even the shop’s interior feel very Japanese as I could imagine walking into a shop like this in Tokyo’s Yanaka district… hence, to find a shop like this in the middle of Shanghai was a pleasant surprise!

Retro Revo (no.248) is a British company specialises in handmade industrial European and American vintage designs including furniture, lighting, carpets and accessories. Inspired from the Industrial Revolution era, all their products are newly produced by craftsmen outside of China, hence, most of them come with hefty price tags.

Top: Baker & Spice cafe; 2nd row left: Sunflour bakery & cafe; 2nd row right: La Mer cafe; Bottom row left: Vinyl Ganesh; Bottom row middle: Wagas

There are also several bakeries/ cafe on this road including Baker & Spice (no.195) and Sunflour Bakery & cafe (no.322). Located not far away is Wagas (7 Dong Hu Rd), a popular cafe chain which also owns Baker & Spice. To be honest, I find these Western bakeries and cafes in Shanghai pretty pricey while the food is just mediocre. I couldn’t help thinking that in the nearby cities like Hong Kong or Taipei, I could get better quality food at much cheaper prices.

Vinyl Ganesh (No 5, 438 Shanxi Nan Lu, near Fuxing Zhong Lu) is another relaxing and comfortable cafe that has a Taiwanese vibe and lots of books available for browsing and reading. The service was pleasant and the coffee was not bad but priced between 40-60 RMB, the coffees are pricier than similar cafes in London, Hong Kong and even Tokyo! I am not sure how much locals earn in Shanghai, but hanging out in cafes seem like an extravagant activities here!

Top left, middle & 2nd row left: Shanghai Lan-Lan Chinese handprinted blue nankeen; Bottom left: Song Fang Maison de the; bottom middle: Madame Mao’s Dowry

On Fumin Lu, there is a retro gift shop, Madame Mao’s Dowry (no.207) that sells propaganda posters, memorabilia and homeware from the Mao period, along with contemporary fashion and jewellery from local and international designers.

In the evening, my friend took me to Dr Wine (no.177), a 2-storey chic French wine bar for drinks and snacks one evening. The place was packed with expats, and although the wine and cheese was good, I found the noise level and smoke (smoking is not banned in Shanghai) quite unbearable, hence we did not stay long there.

Along Julu Lu, there are many independent fashion shops, including a few interesting menswear shops. There is an interesting Russian/literature-theme cafe on this road called La Mer (no.677), own and run by a friendly Chinese lady who spent 20 years living in Moscow. Although the ambience is spacious and relaxing, I found the service slow and patchy. But thanks to the hospitable owner, I was able to explore the beautiful colonial building (now home of the Literature club, which I will write about on the next blog entry) behind the cafe.

Other interesting shops in the area include:

Shanghai Lan-Lan Chinese handprinted blue nankeen (no.24 Lane, 637 Chang Le Road) is well hidden in a small lane off the quiet Changle Road. There is a pleasant garden outside of the 2-storey old villa, and once inside, you will find a big showroom full of handprinted blue nankeen products. The traditional dying technique uses a starch-resist method, indigo dye and cotton fabrics to produce primitive but artistic textiles that can be turned into clothing, fashion accessories, soft home furnishings as well as wall hangings. The sales woman was not very friendly initially, it was only when I showed interest in purchasing and asked her for the prices (most of the prices are not displayed for some reason) that she became friendlier! The products here are not cheap but they are unique and of high quality, hence, I ended up buying a few items for myself and as gifts. Next to the shop’s showroom is Shanghai’s Hand-printed Blue Batik Museum founded by an old Japanese woman, Kubo Masa, and it records the revival of this traditional Chinese craftsmanship.

Spin (360 Kangding Rd, near Shaanxi Bei Lu) Founded in 2004 by art director Gary Wang, Spin is an art gallery featuring beautiful, minimalist and reasonably-priced pottery, designed and made in-house.

Triple Major (25 Shaoxing Lu) is a 4-storey conceptual fashion/lifestyle store that sells quirky fashion and accessories by independent designers/labels such as Daniel Palillo, Lazy Oaf, Henrik Vibskov, and emerging local talents. The shop also sell Japanese ceramics, magazines and books published by independent publishers. The founder, Ritchie Chan, is a Hong Kong native who used to study in L.A. and this shop in Shanghai is his second outlet after his first in Beijing and an online outlet.

Song Fang Maison de Thé (227 Yongjia Lu) is a 2-storey tea house set up by a Parisian Florence Samson 10 years ago. It is hard to miss the bold blue graphic banner from the exterior, and once inside, you will find this cool graphics being used as tea containers and as gift packaging. As much as I like the graphics, I find the gifts sets quite pricey, but if you want to bring back souvenir to impress family and friends, then this place has some good options. The tea house is located on the first floor.

Top left: Cold noodles at Noodle Bull; Top right: steamed fish head with chillies at Guyi; 2nd row left: steam bun; 2nd row middle: Xinjiang style hash brown at Xibo; 2nd row right, Main & bottom right: a noodle bar; Bottom left: the famous Shanghainese xiaolongbao

While walking around the French Concession, I was hoping to find some authentic and ‘hygienic-looking’ street stalls selling local fares, but this proved to be a very difficult task. It seems easier to find croissants than dumplings in this area! Finally one morning, I stumbled upon a few food shops near the corner of Xiangyang Lu & Changle Lu (with many locals queuing outside) selling a variety of steamed buns, dumplings, scallion/sesame pancakes and sheng jian bao (fried buns/dumplings with pork and broth inside) etc. I had a sesame pancake and a vegetable bun, both were tasty and a lot cheaper than the bakeries/cafes down the road.

At lunch time, I found a small noodle bar (not sure of its English name) on Yanqing Road, the place has a rustic/industrial feel to it and it serves handmade noodles (served with kimchi) at reasonable prices.

The Art deco Ferguson Lane (376 Wukang Lu, near Tai’an Lu) is the home to several coffee shops, wine bars, beauty shops, fashion boutiques, art gallery, patisserie and restaurants.. I met my friends at the spacious Azul Tapas Lounge, a restaurant owned by the popular Peruvian restaurateur/chef, Eduardo Vargas. The dishes on the menu has Spanish, South American, and Mediterranean influences, but I did not detect the Spanish influences in the dishes we ordered nor did I think they were in tapas sizes either! However, the quality of food and wine was very good, and the service was fairly efficient, so overall we had an enjoyable meal there.

Guyi (87 Fumin Lu) is an institution in Shanghai serving Hunan dishes (often spicy) and it is very popular among locals and expats. We had to queue for 10 minutes even though it was almost 9pm when we arrived. However, the food was worth the wait, and the steamed fish head with chilies (see above) is a must (even for the squeamish).

If you are looking for something unique, then Xibo (3F, 85 Changshu Lu) is a good choice as it serves Uyghur cuisine from the Xinjiang region of China. The contemporary setting and view attract many expats, and the food is interesting and tasty. The restaurant also donates 25% of its profits to support charitable organisations in western China.

Shops in Tianzifang

Similar to Xintiandi (which I found very commercial during my last visit, hence I skipped it this time), Tianzifang (off Taikang Road) has been transformed into a popular tourist destination from the regeneration of a former residential district. The neighborhood was originally built in the 1930s as a Shikumen ( a traditional 2/3-storey Shanghainese building) residential district. It was saved from demolition in 2006 thanks to the help of local residents and business owners.

Now the maze-like area has more than 200 small businesses from shops to cafes, bars, restaurants and art galleries etc. Although this area is very touristy and busy, it is quite interesting to spend a few hours getting lost here. There are many interesting shops selling fashion, arts and crafts, stationery and vintage/retro objects.

Main & bottom left: Taste shop space; 2nd row left: traditional Chinese dolls at Old Shanghai; 2nd row right: Alan Chan creations; Bottom middle: Sky music box

The highlights of the area are as follows:

Sky Music Box (35 Tianzifang, Lane 248 Taikang Lu, near Sinan Lu) is a small shop/museum (accessible via some steep & narrow staircase) that sells and exhibits a wide range of handcrafted (some slightly kitsch) music boxes. It is a very unique place!

Old Shanghai (I am not sure of the English name of this shop… but it’s at Room 112, no.3, 200 Taikang Lu) – I wanted to buy every item in this shop! I love the 94 year old Shanghainese illustrator/ comic artist, He Youzhi‘s illustrations of old Shanghai. Not only you will find his comic books, post card sets but there are different merchandise that feature his wonderful illustrations. On the first floor, there are also traditional Chinese dolls on display/ for sale.

Taste shop space (Room 105, Building: 3rd, Lane 210, Taikang Rd) – Founded by photographer Viko Wu and her Japanese fashion designer husband, Yutaka last year. Taste shop is a lifestyle shop that sells homeware, furniture, antiques, lighting and fashion accessories. The shop also stock many handcrafted designs including Futagami and Eclectic by Tom Dixon.

Top right, bottom left & middle: Cafe Dan; Bottom right: interesting Korean snack

Cafe Dan (no.41, Lane 248 Taikang Lu) – a well-known cafe in Tianzifang that is owned and run by a Japanese, Taka, who is quite obsessed with coffee. I love the quiet/rustic style and relaxing atmosphere, but again, there is a price to pay for this… around £10-12 for a cup of coffee and cafe, which I find extraordinary expensive for a rustic-looking cafe!

The exterior and interior of Liuli China Museum; 3rd row left: cafe Xiao San Tang; 3rd row right: The shop also sells the Shuriken magnets from Taiwan; Bottom right: MoCA Shop at People’s park

Liuli China Museum (25 Taikang Road) is a huge 4-storey glass building located right opposite Tianzifang. Founded in 2006 by by renowned glass artist and sculptor Loretta Hui-shan Yang and her husband Zhang Yi, the building not only houses a museum dedicated to glassware from China (all eras) and the rest the world, but there is also a Xiao San Tang and a shop that sells glassware, design and craft objects and books etc.

Another museum shop that is worth checking out is the MoCa shop at the entrance of People’s Park, 231 Nanjing West Road. I tried to get into The Museum of Contemporary Art Shanghai (MOCA) on Saturday (bad idea!) but gave up immediately when I saw a queue outside in the rain. However, I quite enjoyed browsing in their small shop by the park entrance where you can find design objects created by local designers and design/museum exhibition-related books.

10 Corso Como at Wheelock Square; 3rd row middle, right and bottom right: Marcel Wanders’ exhibition at the gallery; Bottom left: the exterior of nearby shopping mall

Surrounding the famous Jian’an Temple on the West Nanjing Road are highrises and shopping malls (what contradictions!), and one of new design destinations in the area is 10 Corso Como (North Annex, Wheelock Square 1717 Nanjing Xi Lu, near Huashan Lu, Jing’an) which opened at the end of last year. I am sure most people who are interested in fashion/design would not have missed the institution, 10 Corso Como when visiting Milan. Opened in 1990 by former fashion editor Carla Sozzani, this gallery/lifestyle & fashion concept store was the forefront of its kind, years before Colette in Paris and Dover Street market in London. I have previously visited their former shop in Tokyo (in collaboration with Comme des Garçons) and their original branch in Seoul, but this new shop in Shanghai is bigger (2,500sqm) than I expected. The 4-storey mecca (notice that 4th floor on the map above has been renamed as ‘5th’ due to Chinese superstition!) designed by Kris Ruhs not only sells fashion, jewellery, beauty products, art and design objects, books but there are also patisserie, café, restaurant and gallery.

Honestly, I was quite disappointed with this store because it is too glossy and ‘perfect’, obviously it is targeting the wealthy and local hipsters/creatives with growing spending power, yet it is formulaic without surprises… This is not what I expect from a successful brand that has changed the way we shop today.

Top left: Prada shop on Nan Jing Xi Lu; the rest: shops at the basement of Reel Mall

In the nearby Reel Mall (1601 Nanjing West Rd, Jing’an), it is home to many international luxury fashion brands, but the more interesting (in my opinion) shops are hidden in its basement near the popular food court. I would not have found this place if it wasn’t for the host of my apt because it is quite hidden. But there are many small independent shops selling fashion, jewellery and design objects made by local designers, and one of them is wtf* bikes, a local bicycle brand that sells very cool-looking bike frames and rims.

Shanghai Propanganda poster art centre

Aside from shopping, dining and drinking in the former French Concession, there are also many galleries and museums and one of my favourite in the area is The Shanghai Propangda poster art center (Rm BOC, Basement, Block B, No.868 Huashan Road) hidden inside a residential block. (Tip: ask the security guard at the front entrance and he will give you a card with a small map that will direct you to the entrance). This gallery is really one of a kind and you will need at least an hour to go through the vast collection even though the gallery itself is not very big. These propaganda posters are very rare now because most of them were destroyed due to political changes over the years. The posters are important documentations that record the history of China in 20th century, and not surprisingly Mao is the key figure. Aside from posters and memorabilia, there are also school text books and magazines, but most surprisingly, some of the magazine covers (and some posters) reveal a very open-minded/ Westernised China where female nudity was acceptable… how fascinating! Next to the gallery is a small shop where you can find reproductions of the posters, books and souvenir.

Shanghai museum of arts & crafts

Located inside a beautiful French Renaissance mansion, the Shanghai museum of arts & crafts (79 Fenyang Rd, near Taiyuan Rd) could be so much better… The museum showcases exquisite jade, wood, ivory, bamboo carvings, paper-cutting art work, lacquer ware, porcelain, embroidery, textiles and traditional clay dolls etc. There are also artists at work where visitors can see the production processes, yet when I was there, the artists/craftsmen were not doing much (one was even napping) and the display lacked information, the museum certainly needs a better curator… Even the display in the shop’s showroom lacks aesthetic appeal, it reminds me some touristy souvenir shops except for the high prices.

Kunst. Licht Photo Art Gallery

I stumbled upon Kunst. Licht Photo Art Gallery (210, North Ulumuqi Road, Jing’an) and I immediately felt very relaxed as I stepped into this 2-room and rather understated gallery dedicated to photography, which features established and emerging artists from China and abroad. The building itself is also quite interesting and has some art deco architectural features that compliment the colourful and bold photographs on the white walls.

Shanghai’s creative & design hubs

Posted on March 22, 2014 by Toothpicker

Until a few days ago, I did not realise that Shanghai was officially named as the 7th UNESCO City of Design in 2012. And what does it all mean? Well, here is the official description:

“It is designed to promote the social, economic and cultural development of cities in both the developed and the developing world. The cities which apply to the network seek to promote their local creative scene; they share interest in UNESCO’s mission towards cultural diversity. This network of networks is structured around seven themes: Literature, Film, Music, Crafts and Folk Art, Design, Media arts, and Gastronomy.”

The city has been investing heavily in the creative and design industry in recent years, and as a result, there are now over 200 creative hubs scattered around the city including: M50 (50 Moganshan Lu, near Xi Suzhou Lu, Putuo), 800 Show Creative Park (800 Changde Rd, Jing’an), 2577 Creative Garden (2577 Longhua Road, Xuhui), Red Town (570 Huaihai Road W, Changning) and the list goes on.

Since I was there for only 4/5 days, I picked a few to see what this ‘City of design’ has to offer:

1933 Shanghai

1933 Shanghai (29 Shajing Lu, near Haining Lu, Hongkou district)

This is probably the most famous creative hubs in the city because of its unusual background and architecture. It was once a cattle slaughterhouse. Located in the historic Hongkou District above the Bund, the building (also known as “Old Millfun”) is not that easily accessible by public transport. Yet when you are there, the Art deco and maze-like architecture will blow you away.

Designed originally by British architect and built in 1933 by Chinese developers with British concrete, it survived demolition and is the last of three left in the world (the other two were in London and the US). After the RMB100 million restoration in 2008, the formal slaughterhouse has been used as a creative hub for architectural and design firms, with a few restaurants, cafes and design shops.

Before my arrival, I was expecting the place to be buzzing, but it turned out to be surprisingly quiet with some local visitors and ‘tourists’ like myself. There were only a few shops on the ground floor and a few restaurants that were opened, otherwise the place was eerily empty.

I spoke to my local friend about this and she told me that many Shanghainese believe that the building has ‘bad spirit’ because of all dead animals that have been slaughtered here. Apparently, many companies moved in but left soon after, hence, now the place only has a few offices and is mostly used as a backdrop for photo shoots.

I don’t blame the Shanghainese for being superstitious because as I was walking around, I did find the place rather creepy. I later found out that there are religious (Buddhist) elements in this building, i.e. all the windows were built facing west, directing the slaughtered animals towards the land for reincarnation. Yet in terms of architecture, it is an outstanding piece of work, so it is worth visiting if you are interested in architecture.

N.B. The restaurant, Noodle Bull within the building offers inexpensive and MSG-free Taiwanese noodles, it is a good lunch option.

The commercial house 1913 & Manbo ceramics shop & cafe

The commercial house 1913 (160 Ha’erbin Rd, Hongkou district)

Only about 5 minutes walk from the Old Millfun is another new creative hub (opened in 2011) with a offices, shops, restaurants and cafes. The British style building once belonged to the British company, Hutchison Whampoa and first started construction between 1912-13. In 1935, the trade office building was completed and during the hundred years, more additional constructions were added including a large ice storage.

After almost a year of restoration by the cultural and creative development enterprise Dobe, the 6th creative hub has been restored to create commercial spaces for rental. Yet apart from 2 small pottery shops including Manbo on the ground floor, the other floors didn’t appear to be occupied, so I didn’t bother exploring further. The building and surrounding area was extremely quiet, which I found kinda odd for the highly-dense Shanghai.

Manbo is a wonderful ceramics shop/cafe selling ceramic tableware and home accessories made by young local craftsmen/artists/designers. The shop’s name means ‘slow stop’ in Chinese, so it aims to promote slow living and the ceramics here also reflect this attitude and quality.

Top row & 2nd row left: The Bridge 8; 2nd row middle & right, 3rd and 4th row: Jing An Design Centre/ Central POD

The Bridge 8 (8-10 Jian Guo Zhong Road, Xuhui district)

The Bridge 8 used to be the abandoned factory buildings of the Shanghai Automotive Brake Company. The site has been restored and opened in 2004, occupying over an area of 20,000 square meters in the city centre and is one of most well-known creative hubs in the Shanghai.

The notable architectural feature of this complex is its modern bridge that connects the two buildings. Yet the complex’s most highly regarded aspects are its energy saving systems of solar photovoltaic power generation system, solar water heating system and ground source heat pump air-conditioning system.

There are over 70 international creative enterprises located here, covering the fields of architecture (including one of my favourite architects, David Chipperfield) and interior design, fashion design, advertising, and Film & TV production.

Unfortunately, I got a bit lost and only arrived early in the evening, and so I didn’t get the opportunity to explore the site properly. I am guessing that the site would be more lively during the day.

Jing An design centre/ Central POD (595 Wu Ding Road Jing’an District)

Located not far from the Jing-an temple and the busy shopping district, this new ( since 2011) 3-storey building is a co-working creative and commercial space. Like the other hubs mentioned above, this building was also converted from a former industrial space built between 1930-70 and has been carefully restored by the architectural firm, a_a&d. ( though I read from another source that the building was once a bath house).

The building stands out for its environmental and sustainable aspects, i.e rooftop farming, natural air circulation, usage of recycled materials and low water usage. I love the bright and spacious space, and the use of mosaic tiles as flooring. Although there are only a few offices that are being occupied at the moment, the SeeSaw cafe on the ground floor is a very popular hangout amongst expats and locals.

After exploring some of these creative hubs and seeing less than 30% occupants (except for The Bridge 8), it made me wonder if there is a need for over 200 of them? The concept of restoring heritage buildings into creative spaces is viable if there is a demand, without the demand, these hubs are completely pointless. I am also wondering about the rental prices, are these hubs affordable to young designers, artists and new start-ups? Is this the reason why these hubs are not being utilised to their full potential? Whatever the reasons, I hope many of these hubs will not be abandoned when I next visit the city.

Shanghai: Beyond the façade

Posted on March 15, 2014 by Toothpicker

A more authentic Shanghai can be seen near Lu Xun Park in the Hongkou distric

I first (and last) went to Shanghai 12 years ago to visit a friend who had just moved from NYC to the city. I had always wanted to go to Shanghai before the trip, so I was quite excited. Yet the newly-developing city was not what I expected at all, I found the city crowded and chaotic, the people rude, pretentious and pushy (physically and verbally), the service appalling and the food very greasy. I did not want to return to this city despite many friends have since moved there (and left) and had invited me over, but I did not budge.

When I finally decided to revisit this city again, I didn’t want the trip to be tarnished by my previous experience and was determined to look beyond the ‘surface’. I turned down my friend’s invitation to stay at hers (only to discover later that she lives only 2 blocks away from where I was staying), instead I rented a small studio in the historical Simingcun ( where many famous locals used to reside), hoping for a more authentic experience.

Living like a local in the Simingcun in the former French Concession

Simingcun turns out to be an extremely interesting and authentic ‘village’ in the former French Concession right across from the Shanghai Exhibition centre. Though I was hardly impressed when I first arrived in the early evening. First of all, the taxi driver insisted that it would be difficult to find the place, even though I had already provided him with as much info as possible. Then when he finally found it, the lane was very dimly lit with trash here and there, and it didn’t smell too good either. Even when I made it to the block, I had trouble finding the light switch as I climbed up the steep and narrow staircase. The neighbours were a bit suspicious of me too, but thanks to the next door neighbour and his torch, I was able to let myself into the apartment.

Before entering the apartment, I was starting to regret my decision, but once inside, I felt a sense of relief. The studio was nicely furnished with modern facilities and it seemed like a world apart from the neighbours’ apartments. Over the next few days, I started to enjoy my ‘local’ experience… watching the lady in the opposite block hanging her laundry on the rooftop, smelling food as my neighbour was cooking away in the kitchen next door and best of all, listening to them play mahjong early Sunday morning (I probably wouldn’t be too happy if I was living there long term).

I usually prefer to walk or take public transport when I am visiting a city. But Shanghai is a big metropolis, and after spending almost 2 days walking around the former French Concession, I had to look for alternative options when I ventured beyond it.

The two major threats of walking in this city are: pollution and the high probability of being hit by cars when crossing the streets! For the pollution, I had prepared 3 masks for it, and although it was not as bad as Beijing, I still had to wear a mask when crossing busy roads.

But the act of crossing the streets in Shanghai is more hazardous than the high pollution level. Even when the light is green (for pedestrians), cars, trucks and mopeds would ignore it and drive on. My mother once had to ask a policeman for help as she was unable to cross the street during her visit a few years ago. My advice is to act quick, take the opportunity when you see it or follow the locals. It takes years to master the skill, so the locals have more expertise in this area, though occasionally, I have noticed some being completely oblivion to the crazy traffic around them. Hence, if you can’t run fast enough, then avoid crossing the streets altogether!

The metro is an easy, cheap and safe option, though a taxi driver warned me not to use it during rush hours and to be careful of pickpocketing. Overall, I was quite impressed with the service. Lastly, taxis are fine if with the exact address, but the problem is do with the heavy traffic as you can be stuck in traffic jams for ages, so it is best to avoid taking them during rush hours.

Shanghai is a vast open-air launderette…

Unsurprisingly, Shanghai has changed a great deal since I last visited. Back then, the city was like an immature and insecure child entering puberty, searching for its identity while trying hard to be cool. Now, the teenager has grown up and is more confident and comfortable with its new-found identity. The city notably has more high-rise, glossy shopping malls, Western-style cafes (selling expensive coffees at around £3-4 per cup) and expats (esp. French ones). These days, it is easier to find a boulangerie selling croissants than a local eatery selling xiao long bao in the former French Concession! Yet the glossiness and Western influences seem ‘superficial’ to me, as I believe the soul of the city can only be found on the streets where locals and ordinary Shanghainese live, eat, work and play.

Drying laundry in the public is a common sight in Shanghai. It is quite amusing to see underwear hanging from above while walking down the streets. And sometimes you can even see poultry being hung or shoes being dried on the pavements. All these local traits may be the norm to them, but to outsiders, they are quite fascinating.

However, I couldn’t help but notice the widening gap between the rich and the poor… as I was walking along Nanjing Road West one day, I saw a long queue outside of the newly-opened Old Navy (I could hardly believe it as it is considered to be a ‘cheap’ sister brand of Gap in the U.S. where I used to buy t-shirts for the gym). While my jaw was dropping, I suddenly noticed a beggar in front of me searching for goodies from the trash bin (see above), which was such a contrast from what was happening across the road.

Welcome to the new China.

Street vendors and local shops

On the surface, the young and wealthier Shanghainese are more fashion-conscious and well-groomed, and they are happy to embrace their new Westernised lifestyle. Yet underneath the branded labels, their mannerism and behaviour is still very ‘Chinese’ (yes, they still spit in front of you as if you don’t exist and would push you out of their way while queuing inside an upscale cafe). Having said that, it has vastly improved compared to 12 years ago, back then, it was much worse.

People can also be very curious/ nosy/ suspicious, especially when I stopped to take photographs on the streets. I don’t know if it is paranoia, but I felt the need to be careful when taking photographs on the streets, so I ended up using my iphone instead as it was not as obvious.

The Chinese is a nation that loves food… the ‘suspicious-looking’ policeman in the last photo was actually eating a durian on a modped!

Food is crucial in Chinese people’s lives, so walking down the streets, it would be hard to avoid seeing people queuing for local delicacies, buying fruits and vegetables or eating on the pavements. Due to the recent food safety scares in China, I was quite hesitate to buy from the street vendors or stalls except for vegetable steamed buns and sesame pancakes. Other times, I would look for food courts inside malls where the hygiene is better and yet it is still possible to find authentic and not over-priced local dishes.

Although my overall impression of Shanghai has changed a lot on this trip and I enjoyed it much more than my previous one, I still have reservations in regards to many issues hidden behind the curtain. Even with practical issues like the internet, the speed was slow and unstable, which I original thought was a connection problem in the apartment, but then later I was told by my friend that this is a common problem everywhere. And banning social media sites like Facebook, Twitter or Youtube is quite pointless because there are still ways to get around it…

Another issue is the rising costs of living here, rental costs is rising and eating out in Western-style restaurants and cafes could cost more than Hong Kong or even London. Yet the prices seem to drop drastically at eateries catered for the locals, so do the inflated prices reflect the real value of the products and services?

Shanghai is changing rapidly and I am sure when I next return to Shanghai, it will be quite different again. Will it become a more mature and elegant adult? I guess we shall wait and see.

Design Shanghai 2014

Posted on March 8, 2014 by Toothpicker

The exterior of Shanghai exhibition centre

For my annual trip to Asia this year, I decided to skip Japan and opted for Singapore to visit Maison et objet Asia ( the first show outside of Paris) and Singapore design week. But I also wanted to make a trip to China to find out more about their current design scene… and I came across Design Shanghai 2014, which coincided with my dates, hence I decided to check out the event.

Before my trip, I found out that the event would be organised by Media 10 Ltd, a British company that organises 100% design, Ideal Home show and Clerkenwell Design Week etc. And judging from the show’s partners and collaborations ( and the involvement of many international-renowned designers and architects), it assured me that the event would be more international than local and of a certain standard.

And then I was in for some surprises, both good and bad…

The interior of the Shanghai exhibition centre

My first surprise came when I arrived at the venue, which turned out to be conveniently located close to where I was staying (which was not planned) near the Former French Concession area. I was quite stunned when I saw this massive Soviet-style building/ complex, it was only later that I found out about its history. It was built in 1955 as the Sino-Soviet Friendship Building to commemorate the alliance between China and the Soviet Union, and was once the tallest building in Shanghai.

My second surprise came when I was inside the building, not only everything is opulent, but each room is completely different in style (slightly schizophrenic), while showcasing incredible architectural craftsmanship (very Soviet). I could not help but be amazed by the detail of the ceilings, columns and lighting etc, and was completely distracted from the exhibitors…

Top left & right: Design talks by Sharon Leece, Editor at large, AD China, British/Hong Kong designer, Michael Young and Rossana Hu from Neri & Hu

My third surprise came when I started to wander around the exhibition halls, all the brands seemed surprisingly familiar… it turned out that probably 60% (my rough estimate) of the designers/ brands exhibiting were British, and the rest was split between other international brands like Alessi or Flos and local Chinese ones. Judging from the name of the show, I expected to see more Chinese brands, but this was not the case. I later spoke to a British lady was one of the organisers, and was told that the show aimed to introduce high-end British designer brands to the Chinese market. And due to the craftsmanship involved, the designs could not be easily copied either. She later laughed and said that if I was there to look for Chinese designs, then I was at the wrong show. Oops.

Top left & main: Ceramics at X+Q; Top right: Shanghai skyscrapper candles by Naihan Li; Bottom middle: a & a; Bottom right: Pearl Lam gallery

I guess it wasn’t completely at a loss, as I did find the design seminars quite informative and interesting esp. the talk on Chinese design trends by Sharon Leece, the Editor at large of AD China. She spoke of the retail and interior trends in China and the new creative/ design hubs in cities like Chengdu, Dali and Guangzhou, which I did not know before the show. I also attended another seminar by Hong Kong based British designer, Michael Young and Rosanna Hu from Neri & Hu talking about their recent projects in China.

Ceramic work at Kaolin

The show featured mostly high-end and craft-based designs, and one of my favourite Chinese brands there was Kaolin. Kaolin is a creative studio, founded by a ceramic artist, a designer and a media expert in 2012, which aims to promote young domestic ceramic talents to a wider international audience. The ceramic designs are quite minimalistic but beautifully crafted, using traditional techniques and heritage but in a contemporary way.

Top left: Pusu Lifetstyle; 2nd row left and bottom left: Neri & Hu; 2nd row middle & right: Zizaoshe; Bottom right: a bamboo forest installation

Neri & Hu is one of the most well-known and respected architectural design practice working in China today. The practice not only work on architectural projects, but they also design and produce furniture, lighting and tableware; and founded the high-end furniture and lifestyle store, Design Republic, one the first to introduce international designer products and furniture to China.

Neri & Hu products are hand made and often inspired by traditional and everyday objects found on the streets of Shanghai. Heritage, craftsmanship and materials are important elements in their designs (see above), and it is no surprise that their designs are one of the best representatives in the contemporary Chinese design world today.

Crowds outside and inside of the exhibition centre in the weekends, and exhibitors had to use tapes to keep the crowds away

Finally, my last surprise took place when I tried to return to the show for a talk on Saturday. If I hadn’t got my badge on the first day (even then, I had to queue for 15 minutes), I probably would have ended up queuing all day long to get in! The massive queue outside went around the block, and it was almost impossible to walk towards the seminar room ( which happened to be situated at the end of one wing). The crowds were pushing, shoving and snapping away regardless of other people around them. When I was trying to push my way out of the building via the narrow passage lined with exhibition booths, all the booths had tapes in front of them to keep the crowds away. It was something that I have never seen before at any trade or design shows!

The problem with the show was not to do with the quality of the designs or exhibitors, but the fact that the organisers did not separate the trade or press people from the public. Usually the trade or press people would get access to the show or event a day or two before the public, it seemed rather odd to use a ‘free and open to all’ tactic because the show was completely chaotic and out of control in the weekend. This arrangement also made it difficult for trade people to enquire information from the designers or companies (even on the first day). Meanwhile, I also received rude treatment by one of Chinese exhibitors when I tried to pick up a business card, probably because he thought I was just a random person from the public. This was really the last thing I expected from exhibitors who were there to ‘sell’ their work. And from what I saw, the majority of public there were not really interested in design, all they cared about was a free event where they could hang out, snap away in order to share on Weibo and seek freebies.

This is China after all, applying the British/international standard would not work here. Perhaps the organisers need more research into the behavioural patterns of the local Chinese before attempting to sell design to the Chinese market. I hope they will learn from this lesson and avoid the mishaps next year.

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Category Archives: Shanghai

Architectural wonders of old Shanghai

Shanghai’s Art deco architecture

Eat, drink & shop in Shanghai French Concession

Shanghai’s creative & design hubs

Design Shanghai 2014