Broadway and Ernakulam market in Kochi

Posted on April 3, 2020 by Toothpicker

I love visiting local food markets when I travel, so I asked my homestay host to recommend one. She recommended Broadway and Ernakulam market, where there are fresh fruits and vegetable stalls, as well as shops selling spices, fashion, fabrics, and homeware etc. I took a ferry from Vypin island to Ernakulam, and then got a tuk tuk to bring me to the market one morning.

Surprisingly, the food market was fairly quiet when I arrived, and I didn’t see any tourists as I wandered along the streets. The food market is full of stalls selling all kinds of vegetables and fruits; the vendors were all very friendly and were happy to pose in front of the camera.

Besides from food, there are also many spice and nut shops as spices and chillies are crucial in South Indian cooking. Since I was at the beginning of my travel, I decided not to buy spices here, but I was really captivated by the pungent fresh spices being sold here.

Once I left the food market area, I came across many clothing shops, and even stumbled upon a fabric store selling silk fabrics. Most of the fabrics are pre-dyed for sarees, but I did manage to buy some plain ones (it was a struggle) for my natural dyeing.

As the temperature started to rise, I decided that it was time to head to my next destination… I think the market is worth a visit if you are a market-lover like me. Although I didn’t buy much, I still enjoyed the colours, smell and vibe of market.

Cooking & homestay on Vypin Island, Kochi

Posted on March 30, 2020 by Toothpicker

Chinese fishing nets at Vypin Island

I think the rise of Airbnb has contributed to how we travel these days. Now even traditional b & b and homestay have opted to list their accommodations on Airbnb to increase competitiveness. I have had both positive and negative experiences using Airbnb, and the negative experiences did leave a bitter taste in my mouth, which made me more cautious than before.

Nowaways, many of of us prefer to travel independently and connect with the locals; we want authentic experiences and hang out in non-touristy areas. Occasionally I would join specialised guided tours (like the textiles tour in Gujarat last year), but most of the time, I would plan my own itineraries, which does have some ups and downs as well. Sometimes I don’t necessary pick the most convenient accommodations, but I do get to see how the locals live, which I think makes the trip more interesting.

After one night in Fort Kochi, I moved to an island opposite called Vypin/Vypeen, which is a residential area reachable by ferries and a few bridges. Actually there is not much to see on Vypin Island, but if you want to get away from the tourists in Fort Cochin, then Vypin may be right for you. Fort Kochi and Ernakulam are accessible by commuter ferries, which operate daily and are fairly frequent.

Commuter ferries to Fort Kochi and Ernakulam

On the island, there are some homestays and one of them is a 2-room homestay called Bungalow Heritage Homestay, which is a 1930s heritage home built by the owner, Neema‘s father. The main attraction for me was the cooking class offered by Neema, as I was keen to learn about South Indian cooking. Neema is a passionate cook and she even has a Youtube channel where she shares her recipes and cooking tips.

Since Neema‘s husband was a Captain on Merchant ships, which meant that their family has sailed around the world, and their home is filled with nautical decorations and items. Even the rooms are named after the world’s greatest explorers, Vasco da Gama and Christopher Columbus. As I was the only guest there during the two nights, Neema upgraded me to a bigger room and even invited me to her relative’s birthday party next door. It was interesting to meet her extended family and chat to the locals who were all very hospitable.

Bungalow Heritage Homestay

Inside a relative’s home

Another positive aspect of homestay is that breakfasts are never dull! I am not a fan of many hotels’ breakfast buffets, so I appreciated Neema’s homecooked breakfasts featuring a variety of local dishes. I don’t usually eat spicy food for breakfasts, but when I travel to hot places, eating spicy food for breakfasts suddenly becomes quite appealing.

Homecooked breakfasts

My cooking class took place in the afternoon, and I learnt to cook five local south Indian dishes using fresh spices from Neema‘s kitchen. The dishes I learnt are not complicated, but various spices are required in all dishes. After eating at different restaurants in Fort Kochi, I do think that my (Neema‘s) homecooked meal was the best I have had so far!

Although there isn’t much to see on this island, you can enjoy a laidback stroll along the waterfront to see the Chinese fishing nets. Since there are no tourists here, you can watch the fishermen at work and take many good shots.

Like in most part of Kochi, churches and shrines are conspicuous… By the ferry terminal is the Roman Catholic Our Lady of Hope Church (Igreja Da Nossa Senhora Da Esperança), one of the oldest churches in Kochi built by the Portuguese in 1605. The church was renovated in 2005, which explains why it looks fairly polished. I visited the church early in the morning in between the masses, so it was empty and very peaceful.

Our Lady of Hope Church

Besides the small churches and shrines, there is a large pilgrimage centre on the nearby Bolgatty Island called The Basilica of Our Lady of Ransom/Vallarpadam Church. This is an important prilgrimage site in India and around one million people visit the Basilica every year. Originally built in 1524, the former churcn was destroyed by heavy flood, and a new church was reconstructed in 1676. It became famous after a miracle happened in 1752 when the lives of two devotees were saved from a violent storm. In 1888, the church was declared as a special church by Pope Leo XIII and later the Union Government stated it as a major pilgrim centre. I didn’t have the time to visit the church, but took a photo of it when the taxi drove past it (see below).

Bottom: Basilica of Our Lady of Ransom

I think two nights on this island was enough; it offered me a different perspective and I enjoyed the tourist-free time. If sightseeing is not your main priority, then I do recommend a short relaxing stay on this island.

Streetscape of Fort Kochi

Posted on March 19, 2020 by Toothpicker

The famous Chinese fishing nets

In February, I was lucky enough to travel to Kerala before lockdowns began around the world. It was an extraordinary trip and I thoroughly enjoyed it. I feel grateful that I was able to make this trip, and I hope I can visit India again when it is safe to do so. My month-long trip begain in Kochi, the capital of Kerala. With only three nights in town, I decided to spend the initial night in Fort Kochi and then two more nights at a B & B in Fort Vypin (accessible via ferry from Fort Kochi).

Kochi (also known as Cochin) has been a major port city since 1341, and it is the most densely populated city in Kerala. The historic Fort Kochi is an area within the city which used to be a fishing village in the Kingdom of Kochi in the pre-colonial Kerala. In 1503, the territory was granted to the Portuguese by the Rajah of Kochi, after Afonso de Albuquerque‘s military forces helped him fight off the forces of Samoothiri of Kozhikode. The Rajah also gave them permission to build Fort Emmanuel near the waterfront (hence ‘Fort’ is used in its name), which was later destroyed by the Dutch. Fort Kochi remained in Portuguese possession for 160 years until the Dutch defeated the Portuguese in 1683, and subsequently destroyed many Portuguese Catholic churches and convents. The Dutch held Fort Kochi in their possession for 112 years until 1795, when the British took control by defeating the Dutch. After over 500 years of foreign control, the area finally gained its freedom when India became indpendent in 1947.

My first impression of Fort Kochi was that it doesn’t feel very ‘Indian’. Perhaps it is due to the Portuguese and Dutch architecture, the tree-lined streets and abundance of nature; the pace here is also quite slow and relaxing, which differs from my image of many Indian cities. The minute I arrived at my accommodation, I knew I would love it here.

Since I arrived very early in the morning, and check-in wasn’t possible yet, I had some time to wander around. Actually I didn’t make any plans on where to visit in Fort Kochi, and I thought it might be fun to just go with flow and see.

There isn’t an enormous amount of must-see sights in Fort Kochi, which meant that I didn’t have a jam-packed itinerary and stroll in a more idle manner. Although Kerala is considered a popular tourist destination in India, I didn’t see heaps of tourists in Fort Kochi excpet for solo/small groups of independent travellers.

Although it was quite hot, I still chose to walk as I think walking is the best way to see a new place (this may not apply to the US). Wandering around, I was captivated by the enormous old trees, as well as all the exotic plants and flowers everywhere, which certainly help to beautify the area.

One of the most famous attractions in Fort Kochi is the Chinese fishing nets. When I spoke to the locals, they told me that the city name Kochi/Cochin originated from ‘co-chin’, meaning ‘like China’. Apparently, the 10m high stationary lift fishing nets were introduced by Chinese explorers who landed here by ship in the 14th century. This way of fishing is unusual in India and unique to Kerala. Each one is operated by a team of up to six fishermen, and it is quite fascintating to watch them operate the nets. However, since it is more touristy in Fort Kochi, I recommend taking a short boat ride to Vypin where you can watch them without street vendors and tourists around (see my other blog entry).

I also recommend a morning stroll along the beach/waterfront (less crowded and not as hot), where you can see old canons, steam boilers and a huge art installation made of recycled plastic bottles which addresses the issue of plastic waste.

Since the pace is quite relaxing here, I naturally slowed down my pace. When I am not rushing around, I am able to observe the quirks and surroundings more. Even though the colonial days are long gone, the imprints are still there. The area also has a bohemian vibe, and the streets are cleaner than many other Indian cities. It is easy to understand why this area draws many tourists as it feels more like Portugal than India. And if you love colonial style architecture, this is THE place to visit. In my next few posts, I will write about the beautiful churches, cool shops and street art etc.

Flowers & Nature

Birds and animals

To be continued…

Bhuj: 18 years after the earthquake

Posted on April 18, 2019 by Toothpicker

Aina Mahal

For my first trip to India, I skipped the popular Rajasthan and opted for a 16-day textiles tour around the less touristy Gujarat, which I thoroughly enjoyed. I joined the group in Bhuj after my 5-day textiles workshop, where we spent a few days visiting the city’s sights and textiles studios.

Founded by Rao Hamir in 1510, Bhuj was made the capital of Kutch by Rao Khengarji I in 1549. In 2001, a massive earthquake killed around 25,000 in the region, and the city of Bhuj was almost completely destroyed. Although the city was swiftly rebuilt after the disaster, many parts of Bhuj were demolished including some important heritage buildings. And even today, the aftermath of the earthquake is still visible in the city.

One of the most popular sights in Bhuj is the Aina Mahal Palace built in 1752 commissioned by Rao Lakhpatji. It is part of the Darbargadh palace complex, but sadly lost its top storey in the earthquake. The chief architect/designer of the palace, Ram Singh Malam, spent 18 years in Europe, hence the interiors are highly influenced by European styles. The main attraction here is the Hall of Mirrors because of the numerous mirrors and glass featured inside.

Now a museum which houses the royal possessions, weapons, paintings and artifacts is open to the public. Wandering around, you can find blue and white Delft-style tiles, Venetian glass chandeliers, European furniture, and of course many mirrors! Apparently, Malem established a glass factory in the nearby Mandvi, forged cannons in an iron foundry, and manufactured china tiles in a factory in Bhuj, so local craftsmanship was a crucial feature of this palace. It is a shame that the museum does not seem very well-maintained, and I think a bit of polishing wouldn’t hurt either.

Next to Aina Mahal is the 19th-century Prag Mahal, the largest of the three palaces within the Darbargadh walled complex. Commissioned by Rao Pragmalji II in 1865. It was designed by Colonel Henry Saint Wilkins in a Venetian/Gothic/Indo-Saracenic style similar to two government buildings in Bombay also designed by him at around the same time. The palace is made of Italian marble and sandstone from Rajasthan, and was completed in 1879, four years after Pragmalji‘s death. The palace’s main attraction is its 150 feet high clock tower where visitors can ascend and enjoy a panoramic view of the city.

Aside from the earthquake damage, the palace was also burgled by thieves, leaving it in a rather forlorn state. After filming at the palace in 2010, the famous Bollywood actor Amitabh Bachchan suggested a restoration proposal with the Gujarat state tourism secretary, hence the palace was restored and opened to the public.

Inside the palace, you can see some eerie taxidermy from the Maharajah’s collection and odd bits and bobs that resembles a quirky vintage shop rather than treasures of a palace. The most impressive room here is the exuberant Durbar Hall, where you can admire the vast chandeliers, statues and pillars that have clearly been restored. Personally, I find the palace quite uncanny and would dread to stay here overnight.

After our visit to the two palaces, we spent some time walking down the streets near the Old Vegetable market in the old town. The Old Vegetable market or Saraf Bazaar is housed in an old British garrison, a colonial structure that dates back to 1883. The building was partly rebuilt after the earthquake, and now it still functions as a vegetable market selling vegetables, fruits, spices, pickles and snacks. We missed the trading market, but it was still fascinating to check out the architecture and see some interesting fruits and vegetables that are on sale here.

The Old vegetable market

While many cities around the world are becoming more homogenised, it was refreshing to walk around the old parts of Bhuj where you can find different types of shops selling local crafts and services catered to the locals. There are tailors, shoe makers, barbers, grocery stores, pharmacies and stationery shops etc; it is a buzzling place that attracts not only people but cows, too. For the first time in my life, I witnessed a cow stealing a shirt from the shop and the shop owner had to run out to chase it – what a hilarious and bizarre sight!

Although we didn’t stay at the heritage homestay, The Bhuj House (such a shame), but we had a wonderful lunch there. Built in 1894 by an Parsi, Pestonji Sorabji Bhujwala, in Camp – an area located beyond the walled city of Bhuj and directly beneath the fortified Bhujia hill. Though the Parsi house survived the 2001 earthquake, the house was restored in 2012 and opened in 2015. The house features a beautiful Parsi courtyard, and a rooftop terrace with a view of the nearby Mosque.

We had a very relaxing and enjoyable Parsi food in the dinning area that overlooks the couryard. The staff also gave us a tour around the homestay after the meal, and it was not to fall in love with this heritage house that is filled with memorabilia and vintage furniture. I would love to stay here if I return to Bhuj again in the future.

Dharavi – the largest slum in Mumbai

Posted on April 4, 2019 by Toothpicker

The foot bridge to Dharavi

Inequality is increasingly becoming a global issue, but it is more apparent in rich cities like Mumbai – the world’s 12th richest city. According to the statistics from 2016, about 55% of the city’s population lives in slums, or areas of extreme poverty that lack the basics such as clean water and electricity. Mumbai is home of the richest in India, yet it also has largest slum population in the world. ( N.B. The world’s most expensive private residential home is the 27-storey Antilia located in Mumbai’s Cumballa Hill, and it belongs to Mukesh Ambani, costing of between $1-2 billion.)

Dharavi is not only the largest slum in Mumbai, it is also one of the most densely populated areas in the world, with over one million people living in an area of just over 2.1 square kilometres/ 557 acres. It became famous after it was featured in Danny Boyle‘s Slumdog Millionaire in 2008.

Took the commuter train to Dharavi with our guide from Reality Tours

I understand that a lot of people feel discomfort with the idea of visiting slums, and they consider it as poverty voyeurism. However, I believe that it is important to understand why these slums exist and how they function. Actually the Dharavi slum is a microcosm with its small business economy estimated to be worth US$ 665 million a year, so I don’t think we can turn a blind eye to the inhabitants and their contribution to Mumbai’s economy.

There are several companies that run the Dharavi slum tour; I chose the popular Reality Tours which states that 80% of its profits would go back to the community through its NGO, Reality Gives. Started in 2005, Reality Tours began with an idea of conducting educational walking tours of Dharavi, and over time, it expanded its operations to other Indian cities. Most of the Dharavi tour guides grew up in the slum, so they know the maze-like narrow alleys like the back of their hands. Photography is forbidden inside the slum, but participants can download photos from their website after the tour.

Craftsmen working outside of the train station

The 2.5-hour tour turned out to be eye-opening and educational. We visited a soap factory, a plastic recycling factory, watched a potter making pottery, and a community centre that was funded by its NGO, Reality Gives. We saw young children playing happily in their neighbourhoods, and we walked through bustling streets filled with street vendors and shoppers. I didn’t see any beggars; most people here seem to be fairly busy getting on with their daily lives. From the surface, the streets of the slum don’t actually look that different from the ‘outside world’. However, there are still underlying issues like rubbish disposal and sanitation that are yet to be resolved. Not only there are limited toilet and water facilities in the slum area, some of the public amenities are also crumbling, so a visit to the public toilets can turn out to be perilous.

Meanwhile, toxic air is another big threat to its reidents. Not only the slum is surrounded by waste and petroleum plants, we also walked past a narrow back alley where a guy was burning some unpleasant ‘stuff’ with plumes of black smoke rising up in the air. And when I put on my disposible face mask (an essential item when you are traveling around India), others in my group were rather envious of me.

Dharavi is now being redeveloped, and the Dubai-based Seclink Technology Corporation (STC) has been commissioned to oversee this project. The aim is for everyone living in the slum to have a house with 350 square-foot of carpet area, along with additional compensation within a decade. In the past, redevelopment projects have failed because of resistance from the local residents, so it is hard to predict if this one will succeed or not.

Asalpha Slum’s colourful makeover – A non-profit group Chal Rang De (Let’s Go Paint) organised by Dedeepya Reddy has transformed more than 12,000 homes across four different areas in the city into vibrant villages

After the tour, I spoke to a few people from my group and they all thought that it was an interesting and educational tour. I didn’t feel that the people who went on the tour were voyeuristic, in fact, I felt the opposite. I felt that they genuinely wanted to learn and understand more about the inhabitants, their homes and businesses in Dharavi. I sincerely hope that these tours are making people aware of the positive aspects of the slums, as well as the infrastructure issues that they face. Without understanding, it is hard for constructive changes to take place, and in order for a society to function well, we need more open dialogues and discussions between people from different classes, religions and skin colours. Voyeuristic or not? Maybe you can go on a tour and decide it for yourself.

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The fascinating streets of Mumbai

Posted on April 2, 2019 by Toothpicker

Mornings and Sundays are the best times to ramble around Mumbai

I have wanted to visit India for years and yet never made it until recently. However, due to all the negative press on safety issues for female travellers in recent years, it made me quite anxious before my trip. The only ‘alone’ time during my month-long trip was in Mumbai, and even though I have a good friend there, I still had concerns despite being told that Mumbai is supposedly the safest city in India.

After spending a total of 5 nights at the beginning and the end of the trip, I can now say that Mumbai is generally a safe city for single female travellers. This was also confirmed after speaking to other single female travellers during my stay and they all felt the same way. I think when we travel in major cities, it is necessary to be vigilant anyhow, but I didn’t feel that Mumbai is more dangerous than cities like New York or London.

Mumbai’s rapidly changing cityscape

In fact, I found Mumbai utterly fascinating. Upon arrival, it is hard not to be overwhelmed by the chaos, noise and pollution level, but I got over it quite quickly. I think it is a city that you would either love it or loathe it. Mumbai’s current urban population is estimated to be around 22 million (8th in the world), while London is just over 9 million (33rd), so if you think London is hectic, then try crossing the streets of Mumbai during the peak hours – it is really not for the faint-hearted.

Dhobi Ghat – the world’s largest open air laundromat

Cricket is still Indian’s favourite sport

What make big cities interesting are usually the people, history, architecture and cityscape. In order to appreciate a city fully, you have to be act like a flâneur/flâneuse because walking is always the best way to explore a city. However, some cities are not made for walking i.e. Moscow (not made for pedestrians), and a mega city like Mumbai (I had no idea it was so vast before my trip) is hardly ideal for strolling around. Now due to the constructions of the metro system, the city looks more a like a gigantic construction site and will stay this way for the next few years. During my stay, I relied on uber a few times (cheap and pretty safe), took the train once (with a group), took a tuk tuk once and then spent the rest of the time on foot. I chose to stay in Fort (the old part of town) initially because I knew it would enable me to ramble, and at the same time enjoy the beautiful colonial architecture around me. I highly recommend strolling around Fort on Sundays as it is much quieter with less traffic and tourists.

A signage (see above) that looks very much like the London underground!

One of the problems the world faces today is homogenisation. Major cities around the world are being homogenised to the point that old neighbourhoods are disappearing to make way for international chains like Starbucks, Zara and H & M etc. Do we really want all the high streets (and airports) around the world to be the same? Starbucks has been trying hard to make each coffee shop look different, but this is just another marketing strategy to trick the consumers. I like Mumbai because it differs from cities like New York, London, or Hong Kong – It is vibrant, full of character and surprises. Here are some of the reasons why I love the streets of Mumbai:

The people

Despite its size and population, I actually found most people in Mumbai very friendly. At times, strangers would say ‘hello’ to me in the streets, while others would ask me for a selfie (Indians love taking selfies with foreigners), but I never felt threatened nor did anyone harassed me when I was alone. Interestingly, many Indians don’t mind being photographed, which is not always the case when you travel in countries like China and Russia.

Colours & street graphics

Mumbai is a colourful city. I was particularly captivated by the trucks with hand painted water tanks around the city. They are so distinctive and playful – I love seeing them in the streets. While many first-world cities are embracing the digital technology and competing to be the world’s ‘smartest’ city, I found the hand painted street advertisment and signage very refreshing; I only hope that this kind of craftsmanship will not die out in the near future.

Indian graphic design is unique and conspicious without being tacky. They love usuing strong and contrasting colours with bold typpgraphy, yet they tend to work fairly effectively.

Colourful and interesting graphics

Street art

Animals

It is rare to see animals roaming around in big cities, but cows are ubiquitous in Mumbai, and sometimes they are just ‘parked’ on the pavement, which I find quite surprising.

Religious shrines

Religious conflicts are a complex issue across India, especially between Hindus and Muslims. Although the majority of the population in Mumbai are Hindus, you can still see mosques, churches, Gurdwara, Jain and Buddhist temples in different parts of the city. Hence you can find shrines of different religions in the streets, which indicates the diversity of the city.

Street food vendors

It is hard to avoid street food vendors in Mumbai, and the best ones often gather crowds around them. Regrettably, I didn’t dare to try the street food, but I loved walking past these stalls and often was drawn to them because of the smell and crowds.

Fruits and vegetable vendors

Street vendors

I loved seeing a variety of small street vendors in different neighbourhoods. While many street vendors in other Asian cities are disappearing due to urban development and gentrifications, it gave me joy to see them still thriving in Mumbai.

After listing all the positive points about Mumbai, there are some issues that I have yet to point out, and I shall continue in my next entry.

One sad incident also happened during my trip was the collaspe of the foot bridge connecting the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (CSMT) railway station to Badaruddin Tayabji Lane. Seven people died and at least 30 others were injured in the incident that took place during the peak hour on the 14th March. When I heard the news, I was traveling in Gujarat, but I seemed to recall crossing the bridge less than 2 weeks ago.

The foot bridge that collasped less than 2 weeks after I cross it in Mumbai

I tried to search for the photo of the bridge on my phone but couldn’t find it (turned out it was on my camera). I wanted to know if it was the same bridge that I crossed had collapsed. And it was THAT bridge. My heart sank immediately. I felt terrible for the victims and their families, and I realised it could have happened to me.

Apparently, it was the third foot bridge that had collapsed in two years in Mumbai. Yet the structural audit and repairs of this foot bridge were carried out only six months ago. These incidents reveal the infrastructure issues, and negligence is still prevalent in Mumbai/ India. As foreign travellers, we are unaware of the depth of the issue, but this incident did make me see Mumbai in a different light.

Last evening in Mumbai

To be continued…

Christmas in London

Posted on December 30, 2017 by Toothpicker

Regent Street’s Christmas lights

Apparently, the British are the most Christmas-obsessed people in the world, according to the results of a recent research. This doesn’t seem to surprise me judging from shoppers’ behaviour before Christmas. However, there is also a large population of people here who, under different circumstances, do not have families to celebrate with. Hence, Christmas can be quite daunting for those who don’t share the festive mood or joy.

This year, a group of Network Rail workers organised an alcohol-free four-course Christmas meal for 200 homeless people at the normally commuter-packed concourse inside Euston Station. Perhaps more cities should follow suit so that the homeless could share the festive spirit for just even a day.

2nd & 3rd row: Playful ‘Home for Christmas’ art installations by English artist Alan Kane at Tate Britain; last row: love the Christmas decorations outside of this house in Clerkenwell!

Since I started the business 6 years ago, the few weeks running up to Christmas had been extremely hectic and stressful. I would either get sick or be exhausted by the time Christmas arrives, so the word ‘Christmas’ has a completely different meaning for me and those of use who work in hospitality or retail-related businesses. I have also learnt that traveling around this period is a nightmare – especially if you are taking any kind of public transport – so I try to avoid it at all costs. When I went to meet up with my mother in Paris for Christmas last year, I caught the stomach flu bug after Christmas and ended up vomiting several times on Eurostar on my way back to London. Yes, it was memorable, but for all the wrong reasons.

Luckily, I have some friends in London who also don’t have their families around, so I spent this period catching up with those whom I haven’t seen for some time. With 5 festive meals in one week, it was probably a shock to my poor stomach, but at the same time, thoroughly enjoyable.

Festive indulgence – Top: pre-Christmas Sichuan dinner at Chilli cool; 2nd & 3rd left: Boxing day lunch at Hampstead’s gastro pub The Wells; 3rd right: Festive afternoon tea with a free bottle of prosecco at the May Fair Hotel

And on Christmas day, I had arranged to meet up with my American friend in central London for an Indian Christmas lunch, which I considered to be quite unusual. The truth is that I couldn’t find a restaurant/pub that wasn’t overcharging on the day i.e. £75 or more for a so-called festive menu that didn’t appeal to me at all; and since there was no transport on the day, I had to find a place where we could both reach (I was on foot and she was cycling).

Days before Christmas, we were anxiously checking the weather forecast to see if it would pour or snow, but luckily, the weather turned out to be quite mild though a bit grey (unlike the blue sky on Boxing day). The walk from my home to the restaurant took about 75 mins because I opted for a scenic route via Primrose Hill and Regent’s Park; on route, I crossed paths with joggers and many independent tourists who were wandering and enjoying a much quieter London. Interestingly, I also walked past Euston station where I saw some homeless people and volunteers outside preparing for the Christmas meal event.

Walking through Primrose hill, Regent’s park and Euston

Both my friend and I were very satisfied and pleased with the service, value and food quality at Salaam Namaste, and we spent a pleasant few hours savouring our tasty three-course Christmas lunch. I had so much food that I didn’t even bother having dinner in the evening. Fortunately, the walk back home helped me to burn some calories…

The 3-course Christmas lunch & a chocolate wreath – a gift from my friend

After I parted with my friend, I decided to take a different route back via Kings Cross and the canal. The roads were almost empty and there were very few people and traffic around the usually busy St Pancras Station. The city was surprisingly peaceful, and at the same time, quite surreal.

From Camley street, I crossed the Somers Town Bridge for the first time (I didn’t even know about it before the day), which was opened in the summer. This lightweight and sleek steel bridge is designed by Moxon Architects, and it links Camley Street with the Gasholder Park. In the summer, this area would be quite busy, but on Christmas day, there were only a handful of people strolling around at a leisurely pace.

After walking along the canal for about 20 mins, I finally reached Camden town, where the canal ends. And what caught my attention here was the post-modern futuristic style architecture on the opposite side of the canal. This is the Camden Sainsburys and housing designed by Nicholas Grimshaw & Partners in the late 1980s, apparently it was influenced by car manufacturing techniques. How interesting.

The best part of my journey was to walk through an empty Camden Town! I have never seen Camden so quiet before, and so I took the opportunity to explore the area’s vibrant street art.

Although I felt quite tired after the walk, I really enjoyed walking through London without the crowds and traffic. It enabled me to explore and see things that I might have missed normally, and best of all, it made me feel less guilty for indulging so much throughout this festive period.

Boxing day lunch and walking in Hampstead heath

After years of constantly aiming to spend Christmas elsewhere, I found staying in London for Christmas this year to be a pleasant and restful. Sometimes, the grass is not always greener on the other side, and maybe this is something I finally got to understand lately.

Live tango performance and dancing at the Southbank centre during the festive period

The doors of Paris

Posted on September 18, 2017 by Toothpicker

Top: Petit Palais’ Beaux-art façade designed by Charles Girault

This post is dedicated to all the beautiful, magnificent, elegant, quirky, stylish, and unconventional doors in Paris. If you haven’t noticed the doors in Paris, then start looking when you are in the city next time. Here is a collection that I have taken over the last few years across different parts of the city.

Decorative iron & handles

There is a vast array of styles including Beaux Arts, Neo-Classicism, Art Nouveau and Art Deco… Some of them are masterpieces that feature outstanding craftsmanship like the Grand Palais and Petit Palais, but personally, I love the Art Nouveau and Art deco ones.

Art nouveau

Top: Artists’ atelier at rue Campagne-Première by André Arfvidson; 2nd row: Facade of the Céramic Hôtel, covered with ceramic decoration and sculpture by Camille Alaphilippe

Top left: 36-38 rue Greuze by Hector Guimard; 2nd right: Former central telephone office at 8 rue Jasmin by Paul Guadet; Bottom: Follot’s house at 5 rue Schoelcher by Paul Follot

Art Deco

Cool door/gates

Wooden doors

Arabic

The Grande Mosquée de Paris

Street art

Hong Kong’s streetsigns & urban typography

Posted on April 20, 2017 by Toothpicker

Neon lights and advertising billboards outside of the iconic Sunbeam Theatre in North Point

This post is a follow-up of the previous one on Hong Kong’s urban typography… Over the years, I have documented the city’s streetscape and the relationships between visual communications, architecture, and its perpetually changing identity.

Hong Kong has always known for its neon signage, yet since the 1990s, the industry has declined rapidly, as building regulations have tightened due to safety and structural reasons, and the traditional neon signs are now replaced by the cheaper LED ones.

Sammy’s Kitchen Ltd signage

One of the city’s iconic signage was a giant neon cow suspended above a steakhouse in the Western District since 1978. The restaurant’s founder, Sammy Yip, designed the 10-foot-tall and 16-foot-wide neon sign and it was then handcrafted by sifus (masters) who burned and welded the shapes in their studios. Sadly, the city’s Buildings Department decided the sign was unsafe and ordered it removed in 2015. By chance, I took the photograph above (without acknowledging the unfortunate future fate of this signage) before its removal, which subsequently encourages me to continue to document Hong Kong’s ephemeral cityscape.

Top row: The facade and neon signage of Luk Yu Tea House in Central; 2nd row: a trendy restaurant in Wai Chai; 3rd left: Mido Cafe in Yau Ma Tei; 3rd right: Neon sign of a pawn shop in Wan Chai; Bottom: An hourly-rate love hotel on Nathan road has three types of signage!

The best resources on Hong Kong’s neon signage can be found on the interactive online exhibition website: Mobile M+: NEONSIGNS.HK launched by M+, the new museum for visual culture in the West Kowloon cultural district. It features over 4,000 photos and personal stories of neon signs from members of the public, and it is a fantastic platform that pays tribute to this unique dying art form and traditional craftsmanship. I particularly love the short documentary by cinematographer, Christopher Doyle, on Hong Kong’s neon world. In the film, we can trace Doyle‘s inspirations and how the neon signage has influenced his visual style in films such as Chungking Express and Fallen Angels directed by Hong Kong film director Wong Kar Wai.

“Gleam Series” by Alexandre Farto aka Vhils

Christopher Doyle: Filming in the Neon World

Aside from neon signs, Hong Kong’s cluttered signage is ubiquitous and unique to this city. The overwhelming amount of visual information is in sync with its dense high-rise and chaotic streetscape. Every sign competes with another, and it is impossible to digest all the information at once… hence walking down Nathan Road in Kowloon can be an exhilarating and draining experience for foreign tourists.

Top: Temple Street; Bottom: Soho from the escalator

In the old days, small shop owners used to appoint scholars or renowned calligraphers to inscribe shop names by hand. Unfortunately, the handwritten calligraphy skills have been replaced by computerised print technology since the 1990s. Handwritten calligraphy gradually faded from the main roads of the commercial distrists, resulting in the demise of this unique trade and the loss of calligraphic artisans.

Handwritten calligraphy for shops

Traditionally, gilded signboards symbolise the reputation of the shops. The gold-plated or painted gold calligraphic characters are seen as a status symbol for these shops. The characters are carved out of wood as either engraved or embossed by artisans. And the embossing effect is more challenging than engraving because of the Chinese cursive script style. Aside from wood, other materials such as metal and acrylic are also used for shop signage.

Embossed or engraved calligraphic signage for shops

Yet, the best places to spot traditional gold-leaf gilding techniques are at temples, monasteries and shrines. Often you will find two verses of a poem on the sides of the entrance, and if you look at them closely, you will see that every calligrapher has his/her unique writing style. The style can be bold, elegant, robust, refined and subtle… and this style would – hopefully – be synonymous with the identity of the shops or temples.

Temples and shrines often showcase gold-leaf gilded name and a poem on the sides of the entrance

This is only a glimpse of what is around us all the time… you don’t need to be a graphic designer or typographer to appreciate the diverse signage that communicates to us daily when we walk down the streets of the city we live in. As much as I love spending time in nature, I also love seeing quirky and wonderful man-made sights that found in vibrant cities. And urban typography-spotting is an activity that all of can enjoy whilst everyone else around you is looking down at their mobile phones. Look up and you can be pleasantly surprised from time to time.

Myanmar’s food markets & vendors

Posted on March 31, 2017 by Toothpicker

Bagan

Food markets in Asia are always vibrant, colourful and stimulating. In Myanmar, we visited several village and town food markets, and I thoroughly enjoyed the experiences. Aside from food like fish, meat, vegetables, eggs, chilies and dried herbs, we also saw some unusual stuff like the addictive betel leaves and thanaka wood (its powder is used as a natural sunscreen).

I have no doubt that the produce being sold at these markets are fresh, but the stalls’ hygiene was a concern for us and so we didn’t make any purchase aside from the Burmese-style doughnuts recommended by our guide. The fried dough was filled with freshly shredded coconut, which was surprisingly light and delicious.

Yummy Burmese-style fried doughnut

Village food market

Town food market

Inle Lake food market

Mandalay & Yangon

If you planning to visit Myanmar, then don’t forget to include a trip to the food market. Not only food markets reveal the country’s food culture, they are also fantastic places for people-watching, and they act as stimuli that can enhance our senses. Enjoy!

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Category Archives: Street life