Eat, drink & shop in Kala Ghoda, Mumbai

Posted on April 13, 2019 by Toothpicker

Kala Ghoda

Since I stayed not for from the Kala Ghoda district in Fort, I spent much of my time exploring this area, where many cool shops and interesting eateries are located.

One of the coolest shops in the area is Kultre Shop with a focus on contemporary Indian graphic design. The shop serves as a platform for leading and upcoming artists, graphic designers and illustrators from India and around the world; enabling their work to be more accessible through the sales of affordable prints, stationery, homeware, t-shirts and books. When you walk into the shop, you are likely to be attracted by the colourful, modern and graphical prints on the walls and items on the shelves. The shop has two branches in Mumbai, and also sells online via their website (they ship worldwide).

Address: 9 Examiner Press, 115 Nagindas Master Road, Kala Ghoda, Fort.

Kulture Shop in Kala Ghoda

Not far from Kulture Shop is Filter, another curated design shop that sells a range of products from stationery to prints, t-shirts, books and homeware etc.

Address: 43, VB Gandhi Marg, behind Rhythm House, Kala Ghoda, Fort.

Filter

For more traditional and handcrafted items, the Artisans’ Art Gallery and Shop is the best place to go to. The shop and gallery was founded in 2011 by Radhi Parekh, a designer and art promoter who comes from a family that has a long-standing association with local textiles.

The shop sells a range of high-quality handmade textile items and jewellery. Although the prices are not cheap, the quality is much better than what you would find at the markets.

At the time of my visit, there was an Urushi Japanese lacquerware exhibition by Japanese artist Yukiko Yagi and Meguri Ichida showing at the gallery, which was a pleasant surprise.

Address: 52-56 V B Gandhi Marg, Kala Ghoda, Fort.

Urushi Japanese lacquerware exhibition and Indian textiles at the Artisans’ art galley and shop

Nicobar is the younger and more affordable sub-brand of the city’s iconic sustainable apparel and homeware brand Good Earth (see below). Their minimal and organic clothing is comfortable, versatile, contemporary, and particularly suitable for travelling.

The shop is divided into the cloithing section and home section. The home section sells a range of home furnishings, homeware and ceramics that would not look out of place in most modern homes.

Address: #IO Ropewalk Lane, above Kala Ghoda Cafe

Nicobar

Obataimu is a cool conceptual clothing and design shop that is inspired by Japan and India. Influenced by both cultures, the founder Noorie Sadarangani likes to experiment and treats her retail business like an art project. When you step into the shop, you would notice that wood is the predominate material here, and at the back, there is a glass partition that enable visitors to see the workshop where the tailors/ artisans work (all dressed in white). All the clothing on display is not for sale, instead every piece is made to order to reduce wastage. The clothes here focus on innovative materials, traditional craftsmanship and sustainability, so what more can you ask for?

Address: B. Bharucha Marg, Kala Ghoda, Fort.

The shop front of Obataimu

Before my trip to India, I was unaware of the contemporary apparel scene in India, therefore, I was pleasantly surprised to see some wonderful shops in Mumbai that sell handmade, sustainable, classic and affordable clothing and accessories. One of them is Cord Studio. The focus here is craftsmanship and nostalgia; you can find well-made leather bags and accessories, and clothing that is practical and contemporary.

Address: 21 Ropewalk street, Kala Ghoda, Fort. (Opp. Nicobar and Kala Ghoda cafe)

Cord studio

Even though I am not a tea person, I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to lovely San-cha tea boutique. The two girls/staff were very friendly and knowledgable and made me two different cups of tea to try. The brand was founded by tea master, Sanjay Kapur in 1981, and they sell over 75 varieties of tea from green to white, black, oolong, and blended ones like masala chai. I bought some masala chai for myself and several friends, and I like it very much. Although I have not been converted to a regular tea drinker, it is nice to enjoy something different occasionally .

San-cha Tea Boutique

Art on the street: Rampart Gallery

Yazdani bakery and cafe is well-known for its brun maska

Ice cream at Bombay Street Treat

I don’t usually visit a cafe/restaurant twice on a single trip, but I did return to Kala Ghoda Cafe a few days after my first visit. This relaxing venue is a cafe, bakery, wine bar and gallery. The cosy cafe part is housed inside an early 20th century barn with plenty of skylight coming through from the roof. I had a simple lunch here one afternoon, and I really liked the laidback vibe and atmosphere.

I came back to try the wine bar at the back one night because I didn’t want proper dinner. I ordered a fish tikka and a green salad (although I was told not to eat anything raw in India, I took the risk here, and I was totally fine afterwards), and I reckon the fish tikka here was the best I have EVER tasted! I even tried the local Indian rose, which was surprisingly refreshing and very drinkable. I really recommend a visit to this cafe and wine bar if you are in the neighbourhood.

Address: Bharthania Building, A Block, 10, Ropewalk Lane, Kala Ghoda, Fort.

Kala Ghoda Cafe

I decided to try the popular vegetarian Burmese restaurant Burma Burma after reading many positive reviews online. I visited Burma two years ago, but I have not had the cuisine since.

The interior of the restaurant is sleek and modern, with a bar that serves very interesting mocktails. I had a set menu that included several classic dishes which were all very tasty, and together with the mocktail, the bill came to less than £10 – I (as a Londoner) would consider that a bargain.

Address: Kothari House, Allana Centre Lane Opposite Mumbai University Fort, Kala Ghoda

Burma Burma

Arguably Mumbai’s most famous seafood restaurant, Trishna’s restaurant front looks quite intimidating with a seated guard by the door. I decided to brave it and walk in with one aim: to eat their famous crabs!

To my surprise, the decor inside is simple and unassuming. The waiter was eager to get me to try their famous butter garlic crab and so I did. It did not disappoint – the crab was rich and delicious (and I probably gained 2 lbs after eating it). The meal was the most expensive one I had in Mumbai, but it was worth it as that was the only Indian crab I got to try throughout my month-long trip!

Address: 7, Sai Baba Marg, Kala Ghoda, Fort.

Butter garlic crab at Trishna

Not far from Kala Ghoda, there is a charming and nostalgic restaurant that stands out for its ambience and history, and it is a MUST if you want to experience ‘old Bombay’.

Britannia & Co. is a third generation Irani restaurant and one of the last remaining Parsi cafes in south Mumbai. The popular Dishoom chain in London was modelled after these once magnificent cafes.

Opened in 1923, Britannia’s Zoroastrian/Iranian proprietor, Boman Kohinoor, is now 96 years old, and yet he still visits the cafe regularly. It was lovely to see him greeting his regular customers and being photographed by them. The cafe was originally set up by his father, and he has been working here since he was 16. I couldn’t help but smile when I saw the painting of Queen Elizabeth II next to a portrait of Mahatma Gandhi, both hanging beneath a gilt-framed picture of Zarathustra, the Zoroastrian prophet worshipped by the Parsis.

The most iconic dish is the Berry Pulav, a recipe that the owner’s late wife brought back with her from Iran. The barberries used in the pulav that give it its distinct flavour are imported from Iran. I ordered a paneer berry pulav, and when the plate arrived, the paneer was nowhere to be seen. Then as I started to mix the rice, I realised that the paneer and sauce was at the bottom of the plate – it would have been embarassing if I had called the waiter over to ask him about the paneer! I have never tried this dish before, and I found it very tasty and comforting; I guess it is probably regarded as a Parsi comfort food.

It is sad to see that only a few of these Parsi cafes are left in the city, and I sincerely hope that this cafe will still be around when I visit Mumbai again. There may be numerous modern and fancy restaurants in the city, but none can match the personal, historic and nostalgic cafe like this.

Address: Britannia and Co., Wakefield House, 11, Sprott Rd, Ballard Estate, Fort. (this restaurant only opens for lunch except Sats and closes on Suns)

Britannia and Co.

Elsewhere in Cobala, I visited Good Earth, a luxurious apparel and home furnishing shop founded by Anita Lal 24 years ago. The brand bridged the gap between craft and luxury, emphasising on craftsmanship and sustainability. The apparel and craft items here are more old school, traditional and pricey, which differs considerably from its sub-brand Nicobar.

Address: 2 Reay House, Apollo Bandar, Colaba

Good Earth

Not far from Good Earth, I stumbled upon Clove The Store, which is a new luxury fashion and homeware brand. Its founder is Samyukta Nair, who resides in both Mumbai and London, also runs a sleepwear brand called Dandelion, and the Jamavar Women’s Club in London. The clothing and home furnishings on sale here are unique, well-made, and contemporary. The female staff was also very friendly and helpful, which made me feel very welcoming.

Address: 2, Churchill Chambers, Allana Road, Colaba.

Clove The Store

I returned to Mumbai for one night before leaving India, and I chose to stay in Khar West, which was closer to the airport. It is a relaxing residential neighbourhood, and apparently home to many Bollywood celebrities and business industrialists. Tucked away in the Chuim Village is a small DIY paper craft shop called Sky Goodies. I had to ring the door bell to be let in, but once inside, you would be surrounded by many colourful and delightful paper objects. Founded by two designers Misha and Amit Gudibanda, they drew inspiration from paper and hand-painted art, and started to create DIY paper kits. There are various themes to choose from, and you can make stationery, home decorations, calendars and paper animals etc. I think their designs are unique, fun, and affordable, so I bought a few as souvenir to give to friends, and they were all very impressed (and surprised) when they received the kits. You can also order online via their website or from their shop on Etsy.

Address: Ground Floor, Bungalow no 29, Chuim Village Rd, Khar West

Sky goodies shop

After visiting Sky goodies, I came across KCRoasters (Koinonia Coffee Roasters), which specialises in artisanal Indian coffee. The cafe is compact but stylish, with a laidback vibe, which kinda makes you forget that you are in Mumbai. I had a cold brew (as it was a very hot day), which was balanced and strong as I like it.

Address: 6, Chuim Village Rd, Khar, Chuim Village

KC Roasters

On the last day of my trip, I got to catch with my busy local actress friend (who never seems to get a day off work). She asked me what I wanted to have for lunch, and I told her that I was craving for salads (after having Indian food daily for 3 weeks)! She suggested the Bombay Salad Co. in Bandra, and it was exactly what my body needed. I broke the raw food rule again, but luckily, I was perfectly fine afterwards. There are many salads, juices and sandwiches to choose from, and everything we had was fresh and tasty. Looking around, I noticed that the cafe was full of health-conscious looking ladies, so I guess this is a popular spot for ladies who lunch.

Address: Shop No, 1, 16th Rd, near Mini Punjab Hotel, Bandra West.

Bombay Salad Co.

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Mumbai’s ancient Kanheri Buddhist caves

Posted on April 11, 2019 by Toothpicker

The view of Mumbai’s highrise from the top of the hill

Before my trip to Mumbai, I was told by my friends from Mumbai that there isn’t much sightseeing to do in the city, yet it is up to the visitors to find out what this city really has to offer. And they are right. In fact, I never would have believed that 109-129 ancient Buddhist caves exist right in the middle of this mega city.

Originally I had planned to visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site – Elephanta Caves – a collection of Hindu cave temples located on the Elephanta Island just off Mumbai. But when I learned about the lesser-known Kanheri Buddhist caves located in the Sanjay Gandhi National Park, I was deeply intrigued. Since I had insufficient time, I decided to visit the Kanheri caves instead, and splashed out on a private guided tour. This, later turned out to be well worth it.

Monkeys everywhere up in the forest area…

The 109-129 Kanheri Caves, are part of a monastic complex that expanded over 1,000 years, dating from the 1st century BCE to the 11th century AD, located up on a hill in the middle of Sanjay Gandhi National Park on the city’s northern edge. The word kanheri comes from the Sanskrit Krishnagiri, which means black mountain; meanwhile the caves are carved out of black basalt rock. These caves saw the rise and decline of Buddhism, so they are hugely significant as they provide us with insights into the development of Buddhism in India.

After about an hour’s drive from the hotel, I met up with an elderly female guide who was looking rather distressed. She informed me that the officials were forbidding cars from entering the park (no reason given), and that she had just spent the last hour arguing with them. We then wasted another 30 minutes reasoning with them, and eventually they told us that the only way to visit the park/cave was by a shuttle bus, followed by a short hike up the hill. My guide was slightly reluctant, but I told her that I really wanted to see the caves, and was willing to take a bus and walk up.

The bus ride up the hill took about 15 mins and then we had to walk uphill for another 15-20 mins, which was not as bad as I had expected.

Cave 2, along with cave 1 & 3 were closed on the day of visit

I was really grateful that I had a guide with me as she knew the caves like the back of her hand and her knowledge (she studied ancient Indian history) helped me to understand the caves’ history, the sculptures, and how the site evolved over the centuries.

It annoyed me when I read some negative comments online written by tourists who complained about the caves for not being ‘spectacular’ enough. Many of them visited the caves independently without much understanding of the caves’ history and significance. I have to stress that if you visit these archaeological sites without a guide, you may be disappointed, so it is worth getting a proper guide to explain things that are not written guide books.

Cave 3 is a Chaityagraha or prayer hall

Since there are over 100 caves altogether, with no map to guide visitors, my guide picked some important ones that she felt was worth visiting and in doing so, we did not ramble like other visitors.

Sadly, the most prominent cave near the entrance – Cave 3 – a Chaityagraha or prayer hall with stupa was closed on the day (as well as cave 1 and 2). My guide was bewildered by the closure and told me that she has never seen them closed before! It probably was not my lucky day.

Buddhism reached its height in India during 268 to 232 BCE thanks to Emperor Ashoka, an Indian emperor of the Maurya Dynasty, who promoted and spread Buddhism across India and Asia. Throughout the history of the complex, the schools/traditions evolved from Hinayana to Mahayana and then Vajrayana.

Located between three ancient ports, Sopara, Kalyan and Chaul, the Kanheri caves were not only a monastic complex, they were also part of a trade route where merchants would pass by and stay while they were on their ‘business trips’. Over time, the complex developed into a residential educational complex funded on the basis of ‘Dana’ (Donation) by merchants, traders, rich brahmins and members of Royal families who were lay devotees.

Unfinished painting on ceiling of cave 34

In the early days of Buddhism, the Buddha was never represented in human form, but through aniconic symbols like footprints and Bodhi tree etc. Hence, the earliest caves here are either simple single or multiple-cell viharas, devoid of decorations and sculptures, and they are used for living, studying and meditating. The stark contrast between the earlier unadored caves and the later ones which feature some stunning Buddhist sculptures and paintings reveal the development of Buddhist art and culture over the centuries.

Since the monks were in contacts with the Chinese monks through the Silk Road, and these cultural exchanges subsequently influenced the art and architecture of the caves. In some of the caves, the Greco-Buddhist art style is discernible. Greco-Buddhist art originated from the Hellenistic Greco-Bactrian kingdom (250 BC- 130 BC), located in today’s Afghanistan due to the conquests of Alexander the Great in the 4th century BC. This art form is characterised by the strong idealistic realism of Hellenistic art and the representations of Buddha in human form, which differs dramatically from the earlier aniconic style.

The unique blend of Classical Greek Art and Buddhist culture flourished in Gandhara (present-day Afghanistan and Pakistan) before spreading further into India, and to the rest of South-East Asia. Later, it also spread northward towards Central Asia, China, and eventually Korea, and Japan.

As we meandered up the rock-cut steps passing by cave after cave, I struggled to imagine how the builders managed to cut into the massive basalt rock up on a hill surrounded by forests over a thousand years ago. While the earlier caves tend to locate near the water streams, the later and higher caves feature water-cisterns outside that collected rainwater for the dwellings.

Aside from carved sculptures, statues, reliefs and wall paintings, there are also numerous inscriptions in Brahmi, Devanagari and Pahlavi scripts, and some of which have yet to be deciphered.

While most visitors (including myself) admire the beautifully carved statues and sculptures of the Buddha and Avalokiteshwara, my guide told me that what is more important are the grid patterns assigned to individual deities, since these grid patterns are laid out according to different mandalas.

Thanks to my guide who knew some of the guards well, we even managed to get into a locked cave because she wanted to show me some important features inside. And what is also interesting is that each cave has a stone plinth for a bed, while some have benches outside.

In some of the caves, the empty deity spaces indicate that the statues were removed, but the whereabouts of these statues are unknown.

The colours of the volcanic breccia can be seen on the Avalokiteshvara sculptures above

The last cave we visited was cave 90, which is one of the most important and famous caves here due to its oldest preserved mandala dating back to the early 6th century AD. I was completely blown away by the carved statues that covered the three walls. The walls feature The Buddha seated in Padmasana (lotus throne) with attendants that are often seen in the Mahayana style, and they are surprisingly well-preserved.

Cave 90

As we headed back down, we were able to enjoy the wonderful view of the city in a tranquil setting that seemed impossible in Mumbai. Despite the closure of the three important caves, I was glad to have visited this site, and wish to return again some day. I felt slightly overwhelmed by all the information provided by my guide, and I probably needed more time to linger and absorb the true beauty of the art inside the caves.

Before we parted, my guide also informed me that there are numerous Buddhist caves in the Maharashtra State and urged me to visit them in the future. One of the famous one is the Ajanta Caves, a 30 rock-cut Buddhist cave complex which dates from the 2nd century BCE to about 480 CE, and it is listed as an UNESCO World Heritage Site. I do hope that I will get a chance to visit this site in the future.

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Mumbai’s art deco and modern architecture

Posted on April 9, 2019 by Toothpicker

Indian Merchants Chamber was designed by Master, Sathe, and Bhuta and built in 1939

Before my trip to Mumbai, I was not aware of that the city has the second largest number of art deco buildings in the world, after Miami. In 2018, the Oval Maidan precinct which showcases 94 heritage buildings in Victorian Neo Gothic and Art Deco styles was lised as an Unesco World Heritage Site. This new status confirms the importance of these historic buildings officially, and subsequently ensures that they will be preserved in the future.

Originally, I had signed up for an Art deco architecture tour led by the team behind the non-profit organisation Art Deco Mumbai, but the tour was cancelled a few days beforehand, so I opted to ramble on my own.

Mumbai (or Bombay) became a global trading centre in the second half of the 19th century, which led to the construction of ensembles of public buildings around the Oval Maidan open space as part of the new urban planning project. The Art Deco movement came to Mumbai in the 1930s and continued up to 1940s. The first generation Indian architects were drawn to its futuristic & modern look, but they added some distinctive Indian design elements which resulted in a style that is referred to as IndoDeco.

Regal cinema

There are two conspicuous Art Deco cinemas in this area: Regal and Eros. The Regal cinema was built in 1933 and designed by Charles Stevens, the son of the famous architect F. W. Stevens (who built the Victoria Terminus). The cinema was the first air conditioned cinema in India, so it probably was the ‘in’ place to go for the English expats living in Bombay at the time. Designed by Shorabji Bhedwar, the streamline Modern Eros Cinema opened a few years later, in 1938, and has a seating capacity of 1,204 people.

Eros Cinema

When you walk down Esplanade Rd, you would come across some magnificent buildings (though many are likely to be blocked by the constructions of the new metro system) and one of them is the New India Assurance Building. This monumental concrete office building was designed by architects Master, Sarhe and Bhuta, with assistance from artistic designer N.G. Parsare in 1936. This Art Deco style building is clearly influenced by Egyptian and Classical art ( since Egyptian themes became fashionable after King Tutankhamun’s tomb was discovered by Howard Carter in 1922) and features some remarkable carved reliefs on its facade.

New India Assurance Building

Further up the road, I tried to take some photos of the HSBC building but was stopped by the security guard and only managed to take one at the front entrance. This colossal building built in 1942 was designed by Australian architect John Ritchie and assisted by L Palfi combining both Art Deco and Classical styles. The building originally housed the Mercantile Bank of India established in 1853, but it was later acquired by Hong kong & Shanghai Bank in 1959 and now it has become the Head Office of HSBC in India.

HSBC building

The Industrial Assurance Building on Churchgate Street was also designed by Master, Sathe, and Bhuta.

United India Building was designed by Iyengar & Menezes.

K R Cama Oriental Institute

Designed by Gregson, Batley & King in 1935, Dhunraj Mahal in Cobala was the former palace of the Raja Dhanrajgir of Hyderabad. The prodigious building was the most expensive residential development of its time.

Hornby View building

There are quite a few books on Mumbai’s Art Deco architecture, but I came across an illustrated book called Bombay Deco published by Storycity and I bought it because of its colourful and detailed illustrations. The book is a visual celebration of Mumbai’s heritage and architecture, while showcasing the talents of the book’s Indian illustrator, Tanushka Karad.

Bombay Deco

Besides Victorian and Art deco heritage buildings, there is a mishmesh of interesting buildings wherever you look in Mumbai. The incoherent styles make the city look more diverse and beguiling.

Patterns

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport, Mumbai

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Mumbai’s splendid colonial architecture

Posted on April 7, 2019 by Toothpicker

I arrived late in the evening to Mumbai, and as the cab drove towards Fort (the older part of Mumbai), I was completely capitivated by the impressive colonial architecture out of the window. And in the following days, I spent much of my time wandering around the southern part of Mumbai, which I thought was the best way to appreciate the architecture in this area. Mostly built during the British Raj period, the archiectural styles here include Gothic, Victorian, Neoclassical, Art Deco and Indo-Saracenic. Some of the building styles seem familiar to me, and it was later that I realised they were built by the British architects who were also responsible for some of the famous landmarks in London.

Landmarks

One cannot visit Mumbai without visiting the Unesco world heritage site, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (the railway station was renamed many times, and this rather long name was chosen in 2017), but like most tourists, I prefer to use its former name: Victoria Terminus Station.

Designed by the British architect Frederick William Stevens, the train station took 10 years to complete and opened in 1887 to commemorate the Queen’s Golden Jubilee. At the time, the building was the most expensive structure in Mumbai costing 260,000 Sterling Pounds.

On the Unesco website, it states the following: “an outstanding example of Victorian Gothic Revival architecture in India, blended with themes deriving from Indian traditional architecture… Its remarkable stone dome, turrets, pointed arches and eccentric ground plan are close to traditional Indian palace architecture. It is an outstanding example of the meeting of two cultures, as British architects worked with Indian craftsmen to include Indian architectural tradition and idioms thus forging a new style unique to Bombay.”

The station was being renovated during my visit, and alithough there are guided tours of the train station during the week, I was unable to join because of the weekend and holiday. I decided to explore the station anyhow, and was quite blown away when I went into the cathedral-like Star Chamber. It is called a Star chamber because its ceiling is covered with hundreds of gold stars next to marble columns and intricately carved stone arches. There are also some beautiful stained glass windows on top of the old ticket office counters; looking around, one can’t help but admire the the extraordinary attention to detail.

The railway station suffered from a terrrorist attack in 2008 when two terrorists opened fire and threw grenades at people. 58 people were killed and 104 were injured at this attack, and the terrorist were eventually arrested and executed.

There are 18 platforms at this tratin, and perhaps many foreign visitors would recognise the platform from the film Slumdog millionaire where it acted as the backdrop of the last dance scene.

Municipal Corporation Building

Frederick William Stevens not only built the magnificant Victoria Terminus station, he also built the equally grand Municipal Corporation Building on the opposite side of the road. The Grade IIA heritage Gothic style building took 9 years to build and it was completed in 1893, a few years after the opening of the Victoria Terminus.

Although Stevens received recognition and medals for his achievements in India, he died of malaria at his home in the Malabar Hills in 1900 at the age of only 52, and was buried in the city’s Sewri Christian Cemetery.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya

Another popular tourist destination in Mumbai is the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (not sure why officials think that it is practical to give such long and hard to pronounce names to these popular tourist attractions) or formerly the Prince of Wales Museum of Western India.

Founded in 1905 by prominent citizens of Mumbai, with the help of the government, to commemorate the visit of Prince of Wales, who later became King George V. The Grade I heritage building was built by Scottish architect George Wittet who was known for his Indo-Saracenic style designs and the Gateway of India.

Set in a well laid out garden which retains its original plan, the building was awarded first place for Heritage Building Maintenance by the Indian Heritage Society. The Indo-Saracenic style combines Hindu and Saracenic architectural forms, with some elements of Western architecture; this fusion architectural style is often adopted in public and government buildings in the British Raj, and the palaces of rulers of the princely states.

As I entered the spacious and bright pillared hall, I immediately looked upwards towards the the huge intersecting arches and dome above me. I think I fell in love with this building at that instance. I have always loved Islamic architecture and arts, but this Hindu, Gothic and Mugal fusion style is unique to the British Raj period and I love it.

Not only it is worth visiting the museum for its stunning architecture, the musum also houses about 50,000 artefacts from art to sculptures, porcelain and textiles. It is a bit like the Indian version of London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. I particularly liked the sculptures, Indian miniature paintings, prints and textiles collections. I could easily spend a day here because of the fascinating works and relaxing environment.

I also visited the nearby National Gallery of Modern Art, which is smaller but hosts regular exhibitions of famous artists and sculptors. Designed by Sir Arthur William Blomfield (who built numerous churches in the UK) and his brother Francis B Blomfield, as a residence for the Maharaja of Jaipur, the butterfly-shaped building with a central dome was built in 1936. It was styled after a concept of the Central Hexagon visualised by Sir Edwin Lutyens. It was Lutyens, along with Herbert Baker, who visualised and gave shape to the new capital in Delhi.

National Gallery of Modern Art

Rajabai Clock Tower

The Rajabai Clock Tower is part of the University of Mumbai and it was listed as an Unesco World Heritage site in 2018. Designed by the prolific English Gothic revival architect, Sir George Gilbert Scott, who modeled it on Big Ben in London. In his life time, Scott has designed or altered over 800 buildings including London’s Albert Memorial, Midland Grand Hotel, St Pancras Station, Lincoln’s Inn and the Foreign and Commonwealth Office.

The tower was built in a fusion of Venetian and Gothic styles, and out of the locally available buff coloured Kurla stone. Completed in 1878, Scott was also responsible for The University Library, and you can see the beautiful Venetian style staircase from the gate. Sadly, the tower was closed to the public after it became a frequent spot for those attempting to commit suicide.

David Sassoon Library

Another Venetian-style Gothic Revival building not far from the clock tower is the David Sassoon Library completed in 1870. It was the brainchild of Albert Sassoon, son of the famous Baghdadi Jewish philanthropist, David Sassoon. The building was designed by architects J. Campbell and G. E. Gosling for the Scott McClelland and Company, and was built out of yellow Malad stone. When you look at the facade of the building, you almost think you are standing in Venice rather than Mumbai!

The library is located on Rampart Row, and it is full of heritage architecture. I was lucky enough to visit on a holiday when there was little traffic and pedestrians, which meant that I could take more decent photos without getting run over or pushed over.

Elphinstone College

Across the street from David Sassoon Library stands one the finest Victorian structures in India – Elphinstone College – a Grade I Heritage building. Established in 1856, it is one of the oldest colleges of the University of Mumbai. The Venetian Gothic style building was designed by Trubshaw, supervised by Khan Bahadur Muncherjee Murzban, and completed in 1888.

Mumbai High Court

The Mumbai High Court is a colossal building in the middle of Fort that I did not visit. However, I did get a glimpse of the Gothic style architecture when I was wandering around the area. The dimensions of the building of the court measures 171-meter-long and 57 meters wide. Designed by British engineer Col. James A. Fuller, the building constructions began in 1871 and finished in 1878.

Gateway Of India

The Gateway Of India is an symbolic momument in Mumbai. Constructed to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary to the city in 1924, it is also the spot from where the last of British troops departed the country after India’s independence.

Like I mentioned earlier, it was built by Scottish architect George Wittet (also responsible the the Prince of Wales Museum) in his famous Indo-Saracenic style from yellow basalt and reinforced concrete. Situated opposite the Taj Mahal Palace, it is one of the most popular tourist spot in Mumbai.

The Taj Mahal Palace

The Taj Mahal Palace must be one of the most famous and iconic hotels in the world. Everyone I known who have stayed there told me that it is worth every penny (it is on my list for the next trip). Opened in 1903, it is India’s first luxury hotel. The original Indian architects were Sitaram Khanderao Vaidya and D. N. Mirza, and the project was completed by an English engineer, W. A. Chambers. It is another good example of the Indo-Saracenic style, with a stunning central staircase designed by built by Khansaheb Sorabji Ruttonji.

The hotel survived a horrific terrorist attack in 2008, which resulted in 167 people being killed. It took several months to rebuild the popular heritage section of the hotel, and the hotel reopened after extensive repairs.

Religious buildings:

St. Thomas Cathedral

The 300-year-old church St Thomas Cathedral was the first Anglican church in Mumbai (Bombay) and was consecrated in 1718. Built in a neo classical Gothic style, it is said that the roof was constructed to resist cannon attack. It is a beautiful and tranquil church in the lovely Horniman Circle Gardens, so it is certainly worth visiting. After the completion of a major restoration work the cathedral was selected in 2004 for a UNESCO Asia-Pacific heritage conservation award.

Maneckji Sett Agiary fire temple

A few years ago, I visited an exhibition on Zoroastrianism at SOAS in London, which I found really interesting. Before that, I didn’t know much about this religion (despite the fact that it is one of the oldest religions in the world), and I certainly didn’t know much about Mumbai’s Parsi community. As of 2019, there are 167 fire temples in the world, of which 45 in Mumbai,105 in the rest of India, and 17 in other countries.

I discovered the location of this Parsi fire temple by chance from Google map, and I decided to pay a visit as it is located only 10 mins on foot from where I was staying. Unfortunately, non-Zoroastrians are not allowed into the fire temple, so I could only admire the facade from the pavement.

Established in 1733 by Seth Manekji Nowroji Sett, the son of a wealthy Parsi trader, the temple is the second oldest in Mumbai, and it is known for its striking architecture. The external façade features the mythological guardian creature known as lamassu (the protective deities depicted as hybrid figures including a human head, a body of an ox or a lion, and wings of a bird), and they act as the protector of the gateway.

Bomanjee Hormarjee Wadia Clock Tower

Not far from the fire temple stands a clock tower featuring 2 lamassus on four sides of the structure. Built in 1882, the Bomanjee Hormarjee Wadia Clock Tower fell into desrepair and was restored by conservation architect Vikas Dilawari in 2017. The commemorative fountain was erected in honour of Bomanjee Homarjee Wadia, a great contributer in the service of the city who dies in 1862. The architectural style borrows from the Persepolis style employed in other Parsi religious buildings, and it is an intriguing monument which stands in the middle of the road.

Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount or Mount Mary Church

I spent the last day in Mumbai with my local friend, who suggested visiting some sights around Bandra as I was staying in the nearby Khar West neighbourhood. We visited Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount (also known as Mount Mary Church), a Roman Catholic Basilica on a hillock, overlooking the Arabian Sea. The history of the church dates back to the 1570 when Jesuit priests from Portugal brought the wooden statue of Our lady Mary to the current location. A chapel was contructed in 1640, but over the centuries, it was destroyed and rebuilt many times. The current church was rebuilt in 1904 in the gothic style.

The interior of the church features two rows of teak wood columns and murals depicting the life of Mary. The church did remind me of the churches in Portugal, colours and style of the interior are undoubtedly more Portuguese than British.

Another Roman church with a Portuguese history is Gloria Church (or Nossa Senhora de Gloria) built in 1911-13 on one of the oldest Roman Catholic church sites in the city. The current Gloria church was built in English Gothic Revival style.

Horniman circle gardens

If all the people and street vendors are removed from the surrounding area of Horniman circle gardens, you would probably think that you are in London rather than Mumbai. The large circular garden which overs an area of 10,101 square metres in Fort (known as Bombay Green in the 18th century) is surrounded by a row of grand buildings called Elphinstone Circle. Although construction works at the Horniman Circle Gardens started in 1821, it took a total of 12 years to complete. The design of the garden was modeled on John Nash‘s Park Crescent near Portland Place in London. The initial purpose of the garden was to provide some open space for the locals to sit back and relax. After India’s Independence, the Circle was renamed Horniman Circle, which refers to Benjamin Horniman, an English journalist and editor of The Bombay Chronicle, particularly notable for his support of Indian independence.

The Elphinstone Circle (named after Lord John Elphinstone, the former Governor of Bombay) was laid out in 1869, and designed by James Scott as part of the redevelopment of Bombay which began under the Governorship of Sir Bartle Frere in the 1860s. Most of the buildings now house either international banks like HSBC or chains like Starbucks.

At the other end of the garden stands a white majestic colonial building – the Town Hall of Mumbai – which houses the Asiatic Society Library. Designed by Colonel Thomas Cowper, the building took 10 years to build and was completed in 1833. With a span of 200 feet and height of 100 feet, the building was made of stones brought from England and designed in a neo-classical style. The entrance of the building is adorned with a Grecian portico and 8 impressive Doric styled pillars, with a flight of 30 steps leading up to it.

Not far from the Horniman circle garden is the Flora Fountain (also known as Hutatma Chowk) built in 1864 by the Agri-Horticultural society of Western India.. It is an ornamentally sculpted monument that depicts the Roman goddess Flora, and it was declared as India’s Grade I Heritage structures in 1960.

Opposite the fountain is the magnificent Edwardian Neo Classical style Ismail Building built in 1906. After being dilapidated for years, the Grade IIA listed building was refurbished by conservation architect Kirtida Unwala, Mona Sanghvi, along with Zara’s in-house team of architects in 2017 to house the Spanish retailer, Zara. Spread across a massive 51,300 square feet area over five storeys, the interiors of the store looks contemporary but has kept the original bricks to emphasise the historical origins of the building.

There are numerous beautiful colonial buildings in Mumbai and I am unable to list them all. I think it is best to go to Fort and Colaba on Sundays and explore on foot. There were a few times when security guards of these buildings forbade me from taking photos, but one did invite me into the building for a short tour.

Majestic House (the former Majestic Hotel) was built in 1909 just after the Taj Mahal, by the same architecture firm, W. A. Chambers & Co.

The Indo-Saracenic style Anjuman-i-Islam School was designed by James Willcocks and overseen by Khan Bahadur Muncherjee Cowasjee Murzban. It was completed in 1893 and is located opposite the Victoria Terminus station.

Naval Dockyard was established in 1735 by the East India Company and the existing structure with a clock tower dates back to 1770s.

The Edwardian Baroque style building with a dome used to house the famous English agricultural machinery manufacturer Marshall and Sons. It was designed by Charles Frederick Stevens, the son of F.W. Stevens in 1905.

Suba Palace hotel is housed inside a heritage building in Colaba

The Churchill Chambers in Colaba

To be continued…

Dharavi – the largest slum in Mumbai

Posted on April 4, 2019 by Toothpicker

The foot bridge to Dharavi

Inequality is increasingly becoming a global issue, but it is more apparent in rich cities like Mumbai – the world’s 12th richest city. According to the statistics from 2016, about 55% of the city’s population lives in slums, or areas of extreme poverty that lack the basics such as clean water and electricity. Mumbai is home of the richest in India, yet it also has largest slum population in the world. ( N.B. The world’s most expensive private residential home is the 27-storey Antilia located in Mumbai’s Cumballa Hill, and it belongs to Mukesh Ambani, costing of between $1-2 billion.)

Dharavi is not only the largest slum in Mumbai, it is also one of the most densely populated areas in the world, with over one million people living in an area of just over 2.1 square kilometres/ 557 acres. It became famous after it was featured in Danny Boyle‘s Slumdog Millionaire in 2008.

Took the commuter train to Dharavi with our guide from Reality Tours

I understand that a lot of people feel discomfort with the idea of visiting slums, and they consider it as poverty voyeurism. However, I believe that it is important to understand why these slums exist and how they function. Actually the Dharavi slum is a microcosm with its small business economy estimated to be worth US$ 665 million a year, so I don’t think we can turn a blind eye to the inhabitants and their contribution to Mumbai’s economy.

There are several companies that run the Dharavi slum tour; I chose the popular Reality Tours which states that 80% of its profits would go back to the community through its NGO, Reality Gives. Started in 2005, Reality Tours began with an idea of conducting educational walking tours of Dharavi, and over time, it expanded its operations to other Indian cities. Most of the Dharavi tour guides grew up in the slum, so they know the maze-like narrow alleys like the back of their hands. Photography is forbidden inside the slum, but participants can download photos from their website after the tour.

Craftsmen working outside of the train station

The 2.5-hour tour turned out to be eye-opening and educational. We visited a soap factory, a plastic recycling factory, watched a potter making pottery, and a community centre that was funded by its NGO, Reality Gives. We saw young children playing happily in their neighbourhoods, and we walked through bustling streets filled with street vendors and shoppers. I didn’t see any beggars; most people here seem to be fairly busy getting on with their daily lives. From the surface, the streets of the slum don’t actually look that different from the ‘outside world’. However, there are still underlying issues like rubbish disposal and sanitation that are yet to be resolved. Not only there are limited toilet and water facilities in the slum area, some of the public amenities are also crumbling, so a visit to the public toilets can turn out to be perilous.

Meanwhile, toxic air is another big threat to its reidents. Not only the slum is surrounded by waste and petroleum plants, we also walked past a narrow back alley where a guy was burning some unpleasant ‘stuff’ with plumes of black smoke rising up in the air. And when I put on my disposible face mask (an essential item when you are traveling around India), others in my group were rather envious of me.

Dharavi is now being redeveloped, and the Dubai-based Seclink Technology Corporation (STC) has been commissioned to oversee this project. The aim is for everyone living in the slum to have a house with 350 square-foot of carpet area, along with additional compensation within a decade. In the past, redevelopment projects have failed because of resistance from the local residents, so it is hard to predict if this one will succeed or not.

Asalpha Slum’s colourful makeover – A non-profit group Chal Rang De (Let’s Go Paint) organised by Dedeepya Reddy has transformed more than 12,000 homes across four different areas in the city into vibrant villages

After the tour, I spoke to a few people from my group and they all thought that it was an interesting and educational tour. I didn’t feel that the people who went on the tour were voyeuristic, in fact, I felt the opposite. I felt that they genuinely wanted to learn and understand more about the inhabitants, their homes and businesses in Dharavi. I sincerely hope that these tours are making people aware of the positive aspects of the slums, as well as the infrastructure issues that they face. Without understanding, it is hard for constructive changes to take place, and in order for a society to function well, we need more open dialogues and discussions between people from different classes, religions and skin colours. Voyeuristic or not? Maybe you can go on a tour and decide it for yourself.

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The fascinating streets of Mumbai

Posted on April 2, 2019 by Toothpicker

Mornings and Sundays are the best times to ramble around Mumbai

I have wanted to visit India for years and yet never made it until recently. However, due to all the negative press on safety issues for female travellers in recent years, it made me quite anxious before my trip. The only ‘alone’ time during my month-long trip was in Mumbai, and even though I have a good friend there, I still had concerns despite being told that Mumbai is supposedly the safest city in India.

After spending a total of 5 nights at the beginning and the end of the trip, I can now say that Mumbai is generally a safe city for single female travellers. This was also confirmed after speaking to other single female travellers during my stay and they all felt the same way. I think when we travel in major cities, it is necessary to be vigilant anyhow, but I didn’t feel that Mumbai is more dangerous than cities like New York or London.

Mumbai’s rapidly changing cityscape

In fact, I found Mumbai utterly fascinating. Upon arrival, it is hard not to be overwhelmed by the chaos, noise and pollution level, but I got over it quite quickly. I think it is a city that you would either love it or loathe it. Mumbai’s current urban population is estimated to be around 22 million (8th in the world), while London is just over 9 million (33rd), so if you think London is hectic, then try crossing the streets of Mumbai during the peak hours – it is really not for the faint-hearted.

Dhobi Ghat – the world’s largest open air laundromat

Cricket is still Indian’s favourite sport

What make big cities interesting are usually the people, history, architecture and cityscape. In order to appreciate a city fully, you have to be act like a flâneur/flâneuse because walking is always the best way to explore a city. However, some cities are not made for walking i.e. Moscow (not made for pedestrians), and a mega city like Mumbai (I had no idea it was so vast before my trip) is hardly ideal for strolling around. Now due to the constructions of the metro system, the city looks more a like a gigantic construction site and will stay this way for the next few years. During my stay, I relied on uber a few times (cheap and pretty safe), took the train once (with a group), took a tuk tuk once and then spent the rest of the time on foot. I chose to stay in Fort (the old part of town) initially because I knew it would enable me to ramble, and at the same time enjoy the beautiful colonial architecture around me. I highly recommend strolling around Fort on Sundays as it is much quieter with less traffic and tourists.

A signage (see above) that looks very much like the London underground!

One of the problems the world faces today is homogenisation. Major cities around the world are being homogenised to the point that old neighbourhoods are disappearing to make way for international chains like Starbucks, Zara and H & M etc. Do we really want all the high streets (and airports) around the world to be the same? Starbucks has been trying hard to make each coffee shop look different, but this is just another marketing strategy to trick the consumers. I like Mumbai because it differs from cities like New York, London, or Hong Kong – It is vibrant, full of character and surprises. Here are some of the reasons why I love the streets of Mumbai:

The people

Despite its size and population, I actually found most people in Mumbai very friendly. At times, strangers would say ‘hello’ to me in the streets, while others would ask me for a selfie (Indians love taking selfies with foreigners), but I never felt threatened nor did anyone harassed me when I was alone. Interestingly, many Indians don’t mind being photographed, which is not always the case when you travel in countries like China and Russia.

Colours & street graphics

Mumbai is a colourful city. I was particularly captivated by the trucks with hand painted water tanks around the city. They are so distinctive and playful – I love seeing them in the streets. While many first-world cities are embracing the digital technology and competing to be the world’s ‘smartest’ city, I found the hand painted street advertisment and signage very refreshing; I only hope that this kind of craftsmanship will not die out in the near future.

Indian graphic design is unique and conspicious without being tacky. They love usuing strong and contrasting colours with bold typpgraphy, yet they tend to work fairly effectively.

Colourful and interesting graphics

Street art

Animals

It is rare to see animals roaming around in big cities, but cows are ubiquitous in Mumbai, and sometimes they are just ‘parked’ on the pavement, which I find quite surprising.

Religious shrines

Religious conflicts are a complex issue across India, especially between Hindus and Muslims. Although the majority of the population in Mumbai are Hindus, you can still see mosques, churches, Gurdwara, Jain and Buddhist temples in different parts of the city. Hence you can find shrines of different religions in the streets, which indicates the diversity of the city.

Street food vendors

It is hard to avoid street food vendors in Mumbai, and the best ones often gather crowds around them. Regrettably, I didn’t dare to try the street food, but I loved walking past these stalls and often was drawn to them because of the smell and crowds.

Fruits and vegetable vendors

Street vendors

I loved seeing a variety of small street vendors in different neighbourhoods. While many street vendors in other Asian cities are disappearing due to urban development and gentrifications, it gave me joy to see them still thriving in Mumbai.

After listing all the positive points about Mumbai, there are some issues that I have yet to point out, and I shall continue in my next entry.

One sad incident also happened during my trip was the collaspe of the foot bridge connecting the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (CSMT) railway station to Badaruddin Tayabji Lane. Seven people died and at least 30 others were injured in the incident that took place during the peak hour on the 14th March. When I heard the news, I was traveling in Gujarat, but I seemed to recall crossing the bridge less than 2 weeks ago.

The foot bridge that collasped less than 2 weeks after I cross it in Mumbai

I tried to search for the photo of the bridge on my phone but couldn’t find it (turned out it was on my camera). I wanted to know if it was the same bridge that I crossed had collapsed. And it was THAT bridge. My heart sank immediately. I felt terrible for the victims and their families, and I realised it could have happened to me.

Apparently, it was the third foot bridge that had collapsed in two years in Mumbai. Yet the structural audit and repairs of this foot bridge were carried out only six months ago. These incidents reveal the infrastructure issues, and negligence is still prevalent in Mumbai/ India. As foreign travellers, we are unaware of the depth of the issue, but this incident did make me see Mumbai in a different light.

Last evening in Mumbai

To be continued…

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Category Archives: Mumbai

Eat, drink & shop in Kala Ghoda, Mumbai

Mumbai’s ancient Kanheri Buddhist caves

Mumbai’s art deco and modern architecture

Mumbai’s splendid colonial architecture

The fascinating streets of Mumbai