Aranya Natural & Athulya at Srishti Welfare Centre in Munnar

aranya natural

 

Before visiting Munnar, I was not aware of the health issues related to tea plantation workers in India. Often foreign media would focus on the working conditions of garment factory workers, yet the problems related to tea plantation workers (primarily female) are largely ignored. Although they are not stuck inside cramped factories, tea plantation workers have to deal with other serious safety and health issues. Locals told me that workers not only have to work long hours at low wages, they also have to live together in communial dormitories with poor sanitation at the tea estates. Health awareness among the tea plantation workers is poor, and often they give births to children with various health conditions and disabilities, yet they receive hardly any government support.

 

srishti welfare centre

srishti welfare centre

 

In 1991, the Srishti Trust was formed, backed by Tata Tea Limited, to support differently-abled children of the estate workers. Founded by Ratna Krishna Kumar, the Trust launched two major projects: Aranya Natural and Athulya, aiming to rehabilitate local youngsters in a safe and fair environment. Later, Nisarga (the strawberry unit) and The Deli (a bakery and confectionery) were added to make preserves, breads and cookies using locally-grown ingredients.

Most visitors to Munnar would head to the main tourist attractions, but few would seek out the Srishti Welfare Centre. Well, they are really missing out. In 1996, the Srishti Welfare Centre moved to an abandoned shed in Tata Tea’s Nettimudi estate outside of the town centre. Their beautiful site is open to the public and visitors can meet many happy workers who are trained at natural dyeing and paper-making. What started out as an experiment has paid off for Ratna and her all-female team’, now even big corporations have employed the Trust to make paper and textiles-related products.

 

aranya natural

aranya natural

aranya natural

aranya natural

aranya natural

aranya natural

 

Aryana Natural is the natural dyeing department at Srishti. All the textiles here are created in a non-toxic environment and all the dyes are azo-free. Many dyes are locally sourced, like eucalyptus, Nilgiri kozha (eupatorium), tea waste, pine cones and other leaves, petals, roots and bark are harvested from the forest nearby. Some specific dyes are sourced elsewhere, like indigo from South India, lac from Jangir Champa, and myrobalan, from traditional medicine shops in Coimbatore. Only natural fabrics such as cotton and silk are used as they work best with natural dyes.

 

aranya natural

aranya natural

aranya natural

aranya natural

 

Every newcomer would receive training by volunteered trainers for about six months on skills particular to their aptitude and interests. Each artisan would specialise in at least one technique i.e. shibori or traditional block printing. World-renowned Japanese textile artist and researcher, Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada, regularly visits and acts as mentor to the young learners. She introduced many traditional Japanese shibori techniques to the trainees, which enable them to develop the skills further. Most of the artisans I spoke to told me that they really enjoy their work, and it was amazing to watch them work – they are fast and very skilled.

 

aranya natural

aranya natural  aranya natural

aranya natural

aranya natural  aranya natural

 

Athulya is the handmade paper unit that creates handmade paper from recycle waste paper, cut boards and other stationery waste. It is committed to use only natural additives in their paper, most of them are found around Munnar like tea, eucalyptus leaves, lemon grass, pineapple leaves, onion peel, flower petals, elephant droppings and water hyacinth (which is a weed affecting our back waters).

Now around thirty people work in this unit and they produce over 52 eco-friendly, azo-free, biodegradable recycled paper products by hand. It is also encouraging to see Starbucks hiring the unit to produce their shopping bags.

 

Athulya

Athulya

Athulya

Athulya

Athulya

Athulya

Athulya

Athulya

Athulya

Athulya

Athulya  Athulya

 

At the back of the sheds, there are a line of greenhouses growing organic vegetables and plants. Seasonal vegetables are picked and used in the Srishti canteen where nearly two hundred employees have lunch every day. There is also a playground for the staff’s children to play, and an award-winning flower garden that features a wide variety of flowers.

 

srishti welfare centre

srishti welfare centre

srishti welfare centre

srishti welfare centre

 

One cannot come here without stopping at the shop. The Aranya Natural shop has to be the most beautiful shop in Munnar. It sells one-of-a-kind handdyed scarves, clothing and home accessories made by the artisans next door. The prices are extremely reasonable and you would not be able to find them elsewhere. If you purchase here, you are directly helping the centre and the artisans, thus making a bold statement supporting sustainable textiles and fashion.

 

aranya natural  aranya natural

aranya natural

aranya natural  aranya natural

aranya natural

aranya natural

 

The Srishti Welfare Centre is not only a beautiful site, it is also an inspiring organisation. Before my trip, I knew little about this place, and I am flabbergasted that few people outside of the textiles world have heard of it. If you have only one day in Munnar, make sure that you spare time to visit this centre because it is well worth it.

 

 

 

 

Dharavi – the largest slum in Mumbai

Dharavi

The foot bridge to Dharavi 

 

Inequality is increasingly becoming a global issue, but it is more apparent in rich cities like Mumbai – the world’s 12th richest city. According to the statistics from 2016, about 55% of the city’s population lives in slums, or areas of extreme poverty that lack the basics such as clean water and electricity. Mumbai is home of the richest in India, yet it also has largest slum population in the world. ( N.B. The world’s most expensive private residential home is the 27-storey Antilia located in Mumbai’s Cumballa Hill, and it belongs to Mukesh Ambani, costing of between $1-2 billion.)

Dharavi is not only the largest slum in Mumbai, it is also one of the most densely populated areas in the world, with over one million people living in an area of just over 2.1 square kilometres/ 557 acres. It became famous after it was featured in Danny Boyle‘s Slumdog Millionaire in 2008.

 

mumbai train   mumbai train

mumbai train

Took the commuter train to Dharavi with our guide from Reality Tours

 

I understand that a lot of people feel discomfort with the idea of visiting slums, and they consider it as poverty voyeurism. However, I believe that it is important to understand why these slums exist and how they function. Actually the Dharavi slum is a microcosm with its small business economy estimated to be worth US$ 665 million a year, so I don’t think we can turn a blind eye to the inhabitants and their contribution to Mumbai’s economy.

There are several companies that run the Dharavi slum tour; I chose the popular Reality Tours which states that 80% of its profits would go back to the community through its NGO, Reality Gives. Started in 2005, Reality Tours began with an idea of conducting educational walking tours of Dharavi, and over time, it expanded its operations to other Indian cities. Most of the Dharavi tour guides grew up in the slum, so they know the maze-like narrow alleys like the back of their hands. Photography is forbidden inside the slum, but participants can download photos from their website after the tour.

Dharavi

Dharavi

Dharavi

Craftsmen working outside of the train station

 

The 2.5-hour tour turned out to be eye-opening and educational. We visited a soap factory, a plastic recycling factory, watched a potter making pottery, and a community centre that was funded by its NGO, Reality Gives. We saw young children playing happily in their neighbourhoods, and we walked through bustling streets filled with street vendors and shoppers. I didn’t see any beggars; most people here seem to be fairly busy getting on with their daily lives. From the surface, the streets of the slum don’t actually look that different from the ‘outside world’. However, there are still underlying issues like rubbish disposal and sanitation that are yet to be resolved. Not only there are limited toilet and water facilities in the slum area, some of the public amenities are also crumbling, so a visit to the public toilets can turn out to be perilous.

Meanwhile, toxic air is another big threat to its reidents. Not only the slum is surrounded by waste and petroleum plants, we also walked past a narrow back alley where a guy was burning some unpleasant ‘stuff’ with plumes of black smoke rising up in the air. And when I put on my disposible face mask (an essential item when you are traveling around India), others in my group were rather envious of me.

 

Dharavi

Dharavi

 

Dharavi is now being redeveloped, and the Dubai-based Seclink Technology Corporation (STC) has been commissioned to oversee this project. The aim is for everyone living in the slum to have a house with 350 square-foot of carpet area, along with additional compensation within a decade. In the past, redevelopment projects have failed because of resistance from the local residents, so it is hard to predict if this one will succeed or not.

 

slum mumbai

Asalpha Slum’s colourful makeover – A non-profit group Chal Rang De (Let’s Go Paint) organised by Dedeepya Reddy has transformed more than 12,000 homes across four different areas in the city into vibrant villages

 

After the tour, I spoke to a few people from my group and they all thought that it was an interesting and educational tour. I didn’t feel that the people who went on the tour were voyeuristic, in fact, I felt the opposite. I felt that they genuinely wanted to learn and understand more about the inhabitants, their homes and businesses in Dharavi. I sincerely hope that these tours are making people aware of the positive aspects of the slums, as well as the infrastructure issues that they face. Without understanding, it is hard for constructive changes to take place, and in order for a society to function well, we need more open dialogues and discussions between people from different classes, religions and skin colours. Voyeuristic or not? Maybe you can go on a tour and decide it for yourself.

 

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Summer walks: The new battle of Hastings

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The historical town of Hastings and its rather quiet seaside fairground

 

I visited Hastings about 10 years ago to see the the historical site of the 1066 Battle of Hastings. This time, I joined a walking group and visited the town for the first time. Like many other British seaside towns, the glory days of Hastings was long gone. Despite being awarded an £8.5 million grant from the government last year as part of the regeneration scheme to help and revive Britain’s coastal towns, the outcome is yet to be seen.

Personally I have some nostalgic memories of British coastal towns because I spent two years of my early teenage years studying and living in a remote and gloomy coastal retirement town in Somerset. I didn’t like it at the time, but I have vivid memories of skiving off Sunday church services and hiding near the seafront with my friends on many windy days. I have never been back since but many images and impressions stayed with me until today.

 

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Main: Butlers’ Famed Emporium opened in 1888, is now a shop that sells vintage and collectible items for the home

 

In Hastings, our walk was mainly within The Hastings Country Park Nature Reserve, and it was a wonderful one, covering woodland, heathland, grassland and 3 miles ( 5km) of dramatic cliffs and coastline. It was not an easy hike as there were many slopes to climb, but with the sun finally shining in the afternoon, the effort seemed worth it.

 

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As much as I enjoyed the walk esp. along the coast, I was bothered by what I saw while walking through the town centre and along the seafront. First of all, hardly anyone was at the seafront on a mild Saturday morning seemed rather odd to me, then later while walking back towards the station, we saw rows of emptied shops facing the seafront accompanied by many homeless people sleeping outside. My walking companions and I were shocked by what we saw, and suddenly I thought of Mary Portas ( known also as the Queen of British high street) and her effort to revive the other run-down coastal town, Margate. I started to wonder how many Mary Portas are needed to revive all these towns?

 

HastingsHastingsHastings

 

It does make me feel slightly sad to see an interesting and historical town such as Hastings in such a run-down state, why isn’t it bustling like Brighton or even Portsmouth? But most importantly, why are people staying away from these seaside towns even though many of them are within two hours’ train ride from London? Being the most deprived area in the South East region, is the government’s funding for regeneration really going to boost the local economy and help the poverty-stricken? There are so many questions but few answers… Only time will tell.