Cooking & homestay on Vypin Island, Kochi

Posted on March 30, 2020 by Toothpicker

Chinese fishing nets at Vypin Island

I think the rise of Airbnb has contributed to how we travel these days. Now even traditional b & b and homestay have opted to list their accommodations on Airbnb to increase competitiveness. I have had both positive and negative experiences using Airbnb, and the negative experiences did leave a bitter taste in my mouth, which made me more cautious than before.

Nowaways, many of of us prefer to travel independently and connect with the locals; we want authentic experiences and hang out in non-touristy areas. Occasionally I would join specialised guided tours (like the textiles tour in Gujarat last year), but most of the time, I would plan my own itineraries, which does have some ups and downs as well. Sometimes I don’t necessary pick the most convenient accommodations, but I do get to see how the locals live, which I think makes the trip more interesting.

After one night in Fort Kochi, I moved to an island opposite called Vypin/Vypeen, which is a residential area reachable by ferries and a few bridges. Actually there is not much to see on Vypin Island, but if you want to get away from the tourists in Fort Cochin, then Vypin may be right for you. Fort Kochi and Ernakulam are accessible by commuter ferries, which operate daily and are fairly frequent.

Commuter ferries to Fort Kochi and Ernakulam

On the island, there are some homestays and one of them is a 2-room homestay called Bungalow Heritage Homestay, which is a 1930s heritage home built by the owner, Neema‘s father. The main attraction for me was the cooking class offered by Neema, as I was keen to learn about South Indian cooking. Neema is a passionate cook and she even has a Youtube channel where she shares her recipes and cooking tips.

Since Neema‘s husband was a Captain on Merchant ships, which meant that their family has sailed around the world, and their home is filled with nautical decorations and items. Even the rooms are named after the world’s greatest explorers, Vasco da Gama and Christopher Columbus. As I was the only guest there during the two nights, Neema upgraded me to a bigger room and even invited me to her relative’s birthday party next door. It was interesting to meet her extended family and chat to the locals who were all very hospitable.

Bungalow Heritage Homestay

Inside a relative’s home

Another positive aspect of homestay is that breakfasts are never dull! I am not a fan of many hotels’ breakfast buffets, so I appreciated Neema’s homecooked breakfasts featuring a variety of local dishes. I don’t usually eat spicy food for breakfasts, but when I travel to hot places, eating spicy food for breakfasts suddenly becomes quite appealing.

Homecooked breakfasts

My cooking class took place in the afternoon, and I learnt to cook five local south Indian dishes using fresh spices from Neema‘s kitchen. The dishes I learnt are not complicated, but various spices are required in all dishes. After eating at different restaurants in Fort Kochi, I do think that my (Neema‘s) homecooked meal was the best I have had so far!

Although there isn’t much to see on this island, you can enjoy a laidback stroll along the waterfront to see the Chinese fishing nets. Since there are no tourists here, you can watch the fishermen at work and take many good shots.

Like in most part of Kochi, churches and shrines are conspicuous… By the ferry terminal is the Roman Catholic Our Lady of Hope Church (Igreja Da Nossa Senhora Da Esperança), one of the oldest churches in Kochi built by the Portuguese in 1605. The church was renovated in 2005, which explains why it looks fairly polished. I visited the church early in the morning in between the masses, so it was empty and very peaceful.

Our Lady of Hope Church

Besides the small churches and shrines, there is a large pilgrimage centre on the nearby Bolgatty Island called The Basilica of Our Lady of Ransom/Vallarpadam Church. This is an important prilgrimage site in India and around one million people visit the Basilica every year. Originally built in 1524, the former churcn was destroyed by heavy flood, and a new church was reconstructed in 1676. It became famous after a miracle happened in 1752 when the lives of two devotees were saved from a violent storm. In 1888, the church was declared as a special church by Pope Leo XIII and later the Union Government stated it as a major pilgrim centre. I didn’t have the time to visit the church, but took a photo of it when the taxi drove past it (see below).

Bottom: Basilica of Our Lady of Ransom

I think two nights on this island was enough; it offered me a different perspective and I enjoyed the tourist-free time. If sightseeing is not your main priority, then I do recommend a short relaxing stay on this island.

Colonial architecture and churches in Kochi

Posted on March 23, 2020 by Toothpicker

St Francis Church

I love architecture and I am particularly fascinated by colonial style architecture. In Fort Kochi, you are likely to encounter numerous built in Dutch and Portuguese styles, including many beautiful Portuguese churches and cathedral.

Heritage hotels

I chose to spend the first night at a mid-range 3-star heritage hotel by the Chinese fishing nets called The Tower House. The hotel is on the site of a 17th century lighthouse, but there is no sight of the lighthouse now. I love the colonial style interiors and furnishings here, but I do think it needs to be updated and better maintained.

The Tower House

There are many mid-range heritage hotels and guesthouses in Kochi, as well as some more upmarket ones like Forte Kochi, Old Lighthouse Bristow Hotel, Brunton Boatyard, The Malabar House, and Ginger House Museum Hotel etc.

Forte Kochi Hotel

Brunton Boatyard

Ginger House Museum Hotel

Churches

I have lost count of the numbers of churches I saw in Kochi – you are bound to pass by one in every corner. One of the most famous one is Saint Francis CSI Church, originally built in 1503 by the Portuguese, it is the first European church built in India. The original church structure was made of wood, but rebuilt with bricks in 1516 and dedicated to St. Antony. Over the next few centuries, the church was restored by the Dutch in 1779, then another extensive restoration was carried out by the British between 1886-87. After that, the British/Anglicans dedicated the church to St. Francis.

The Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama died in Kochi in 1524 on his third visit to India. His body was originally buried in this church, but after fourteen years his remains were moved to Lisbon by his son, Padre da Silva de Gama. Though the gravestone of Vasco da Gama can still be seen at the church.

I really like the calm ambience and exterior – which reminds me so much of Portugal. It just felt a bit surreal to see this Portuguese style church in India.

St Francis CSI Church

Not far from the St. Francis Church is The Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica, one of the eight Basilicas in India. This basilica serves as the cathedral church of the Diocese of Cochin, the second oldest Diocese of India. The history of Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica also dates back to the sixteenth century and its foundation stone was laid on May 3, 1505, the feast day of the ‘Invention of the Holy Cross’, hence the church was named Santa Cruz. However, the original Portuguese structure was later destroyed by the British, and the current structure was consecrated in 1905.

This Basilicas is more imposing and grander than most of the churches in Kochi, featuring a main altar decorated by the famous Italian painter Fr Antonio Moscheni, S.J., and his disciple De Gama of Mangalore. There are also columns decorated with frescoes and murals, seven large canvas paintings on the passion and death on the Cross, large stained glass windows and paintings on the ceiling.

Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica

St. Andrews Parish Hall

Other sights

A tranquil sight hidden from the main street is the Bishop’s House, which was originally built as the residence of the Portuguese Governor in 1506. After that, it became the possession of the Dutch, then the British, and in 1888, Dom Jos Gomes Ferreira, the 27th bishop of the diocese of Kochi acquired it and made it the Bishop’s House.

My intention was to visit the Indo Portuguese Museum located within the grounds of the Bishop’s House, but I found myself being enchanted by the tropical garden and plants, the colonial architecture and peaceful setting.

Bishop’s House

After lingering around the garden for a while, I walked towards the museum at the back. At the ticket office, the ticketing staff started to talk about the history of the museum and he just went on and on… I was listening to him for about 10-15 mins and decided to get away as I realised that he could go on for hours. Oddly enough, there was no one at the museum during my visit, and it didn’t take me too long to finish the ‘grand’ tour of the museum.

I was a bit disappointed with this museum and it wasn’t because of its small size or contents. There are some interesting Catholic and Portuguese artefacts at the museum, but there is not enough written information and history about these items. Without a guide, it is hard to understand the significance of these items, and I think a small leaflet would also be helpful if they want to attract more visitors here.

One intriguing fact I did learn from the talkative staff is that there is supposed to be an underground tunnel that connects the building to the old fort by the sea. But since the cellars are constantly flooded, no one is allowed to go into the tunnel now. Howvever, I couldn’t find any information online about this… Fact or fiction? It is up to you to decide.

Indo Portuguese Museum

Personally, one of my favourite places in town is David Hall Art Cafe. After seeing so many Portuguese architecture, it is refreshing to see a beautiful Dutch bungalow. Built around 1695 by the Dutch East India Company, it was the residence of the renowned Dutch governor, Hendrick Adrian Van Rheede tot Drakestein. However, the building gets its name from a later occupant, a Jewish businessman called David Koder.

The building hasn’t been altered much over the centuries, and you can still see the the wooden roof which is made of flat face rafters. I love the wooden beams and high ceiling inside the building, as well as the relaxing garden. The premise now runs as a contemporary art gallery, cultural venue & café, and I would definitely want to spend more time here on my next viist.

David Hall Art Cafe CGH Earth

Since I didn’t have many days here, I only briefly visited the historic Mattancherry area, where it is known for 16th-century Mattancherry Palace built by the Portuguese in traditional Keralan style. I didn’t have enough time to visit the palace, but I did pay a visit to the nearby Paradesi Synagogue located in Jew Town.

Constructed in 1568, it is one of seven synagogues of the Malabar Yehudan or Yehudan Mappila people or Cochin Jewish community in the Kingdom of Cochin. The interior of the divine hall is quite dazzling as it is filled with glass chandeliers and lamps that date back to the 19th century imported from Belgium. The room is also filled with hand-painted blue willow patterned tiles. It is worth a visit if you are in the area, but no photography is allowed inside.

Mattancherry Palace & Paradesi Synagogue

There are many beautiful and unusual colonial and modernist houses and buildings in Fort Kochi, and I think you can see more on foot. If you love architecture, you would love wandering around here. My advice is to go early or late afternoon, otherwise, it would be too hot and humid.

Modernist

Doors and windows

Kevin Cheung’s design studio visit at Blue House, Hong Kong

Posted on June 5, 2019 by Toothpicker

I have been writing a lot about Hong Kong’s heritage lately, and coincidentally when I contacted Kevin Cheung, a local upcycling designer, he invited me to meet him at his home studio, which is also located inside a heritage building: the Grade I listed Blue House in Wan Chai.

The Blue House Cluster consists of three interconnected buildings: Blue House, Yellow House, and Orange House. The revitalisation project was part of a HK$100 million plan by the Government to preserve nine Chinese-style buildings in Wan Chai built during the 1920s. Conservation architect CM Lee and LWK & Partners Architects were commissioned to renovate the Blue House. Unlike other heritage projects in Hong Kong, this people-led heritage conservation project focuses on revitalising community relationships and developing a community-oriented and sustainable economy. Former residents were also invited to move back in. Opened in 2016, the project was rewarded the Award of Excellence in the UNESCO Asia-Pacific Awards for Cultural Heritage Conservation 2017.

Before the renovation

The Blue House is a four-storey Lingnan-style house built in 1922 with a mixture of Chinese and Western architectural features. The distinctive blue colour was not a deliberate aesthetic decision — the decorators only had blue paint, so a blue house it became. In the 1950s and 1960s, kung fu master Wong Fei-hung’s student Lam Sai-wing and his nephew launched their kung fu studio here.

The ground floor shop now houses the Hong Kong House of Stories, which aims to preserve the neighbourhood’s heritage and promote local culture through community art and activities. Free guided tours of the Blue House are also available on Saturdays.

At the Blue House, a co-living membership scheme ‘Good Neighbour’ was launched to create a sustainable community and preserve the lifestyle of the traditional Tong Lau (where community spirit was key). Out of the 32 units, 11 flats are available for rental provided the tenants are willing to contribue towards building a community, sharing their life experiences and skills, and collaborate with their neighbours to create a supportive and responsible environment for all. To be honest, I was very surprised to learn that this type of co-living scheme exists in Hong Kong – I applaud the implementers for this forward-thinking plan.

Kevin‘s home studio is located on the 2nd floor at the back of the Blue House complex. As soon as I walked in, I was greeted by his friendly parrot. His studio is bright with big colonial-style windows and high ceiling where he has hung a few rows of illuminated bottles made from waste PET bottles. When I looked around his studio, I could see all sorts of upcycled products including another set of LED lighing made from old bicycle rims, speaker systems and guitar made from waste plastic containers, document bags made from leftover felt carpets collected from the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, and wallets made from wallpaper samples etc.

Kevin is a very open and friendly guy, and I thoroughly enjoyed chatting to him. Although we agreed that it is almost impossible to be completely waste-free and carbon-free, but we can still strive towards that goal. For years, Kevin has been experimenting with waste materials and has collaborated with different NGOs and traditional craftsmen to produce upcycled products locally. He also spent one month staying at Japan’s zero-waste village, Kamikatsu, to learn from the villagers on how to recycle, and eliminate the use of landfills and incinerators. As his contribution to the building’s ‘good neighbour scheme’, he volunteered to take over the recycling scheme at the Blue House, and runs upcycling workshops for residents and the public to tackle the waste issue in Hong Kong.

Like Kevin, I firmly believe that designers, manufacturers and shop owners have the responsibility to create positive changes and change the world for the better. A consumption-driven society is not sustainable, and we have to be more aware of our actions.

I think Kevin‘s works are creative, interesting and fun; I particularly like his upcycled rice bells that are made out of aluminium waste from discarded rice cookers. Since rice cooker is a ubiquitous household appliance in Hong Kong, I doubt he will ever run out of material. Working with a local metal craftsman, the rice bowl is flattened first, and then pressed into dome shapes, followed by trimming, assembling and coating. Each bell is unique and has different patterns/colours/characteristics.

His first upcycled design, Boombottle is a speaker system made from a waste plastic container. The plastic bottle is air sealed, waterproof and rugged, yet has a large internal volume, making it a nice speaker enclosure. The speaker is also portable, and glows in the dark due to the LED light inside. I bought a smaller boombottle lite, which I think would work well with my computer as a desk speaker. It is not Bose, but at least I know that I am supporting a good cause, which is important to me.

Boombottle Lite speaker

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HK heritage: “Once lost but now found” exhibition at Oi!

Posted on June 2, 2019 by Toothpicker

In the middle of a busy commercial and residential district in North Point, a Grade II historic colonial-style building surrounded by highrise looks rather out of place here. Built in 1908, this heritage building was the clubhouse of the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club located on Victoria Harbour’s foreshore. But the reclamation project in 2009 changed the area’s landscape and now the coastline has since moved northwards.

Located at Oil Street, the building was converted into Oil Street Artist Village from 1990 to 2000, and in 2013, the Government’s Leisure and Cultural Services Department developed it into Oi! art space aiming at promoting arts and providing venue for exhibitions.

It was my first visit to the art venue; from afar the green lawn and outdoor seating area looks like an oasis in the busy district. It also appears to be a popular lunch spots for white-collar workers in the area.

The exhibition “Once lost but now found” explores the geographical history of Oi! and its relationship to the sea. As a witness to the course of time and the evolution of cities, the sea evokes emotions and memories, responds to the development of natural ecology and, at the same time, shapes the cultural ambiance of the city and tells the story of the island.

Four artists Zheng Bo, Leung Chi-Wo and MAP Office (Laurent Gutierrez and Valérie Portefaix) were invited to explore the relationship between nature, culture and society, examining the history, present and its possible future.

Chinese artist Zheng Bo‘s text installation “You are the 0.01%” was inscribed boldly on the lawn. The project is based on two publications: In 2011, economist Joseph Stiglitz’s published article titled “Of the 1%, by the 1%, for the 1%.” He writes, “The upper 1 percent of Americans are now taking in nearly a quarter of the nation’s income every year.” Then in 2018, three scientists published a study in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences titled “The Biomass Distribution on Earth.” They estimated that humans account for only 0.01% of Earth’s biomass, but consume 30% of the biosphere’s total primary production.

Zheng Bo‘s project aims to address the issues of inequality and biosphere inequality. The grass on the lawn reminds us that we are only 0.01%, and we must protect the rest of the ecosystem.

Zheng Bo: You are the 0.01%

In the main gallery, a conspicuous bamboo installation entitled “Ghost Island“, two videos and documentations are installed by MAP Office (Laurent Gutierrez and Valérie Portefaix). Created for the 1^st Thailand Biennale 2018, “Ghost Island” is a 9-metre high bamboo construction covered with piles of ghost fishing nets collected in the sea around Krabi. The installation recalls the particular geology of the surrounding islands formed by the accumulation and stratification of numerous distinct layers. It also addresses waste at sea, and the difficult but necessary labour needed to protect our environment. Reconstructed in Oi! is a smaller version, partially built by Cheung Chau Island fisherman and Hong Kong beach-cleaning volunteers.

One of the video shown at the exhibition records the construction of three artificial islands designed by the artists on a tidal beach near Krabi on Thailand’s Andaman Sea. The other records a fictional day for a fisherman living on the Andaman Sea’s Ghost Island. Both videos are fascinating, and they address environmental issues facing these fishermen, including rising seawater levels due to global warming.

In another room, Leung Chi Wo’s “Scratching on the surface” installation is presented in a dark room with a two-channel video projected on a long wall behind a pool of actual seawater installed in the gallery. The videos are reflected on the pool’s mirror water surface.

The installation is based on the notion of memory—our own memory and water memory—a controversial theory devised by French scientist Jacques Benveniste. Using words and imagery of nature and water, the poetic installation was shot in various locations in Hong Kong and Thailand, all connected ultimately by water, which echoes the fluidity of memory.

Leung Chi Wo: Scratching on the surface

In a separate building, architect team Streetsignhk was commissioned to create the ‘Sign City’ immersive installations, featuring Hong’s Kong’s famous neon signage. Various traditional signage and signboards are installed in s small room covered with mirrored walls and floor. Outside of the room, visitors are invited to create their own signboards and get to know the different aspects of this dynamic building component. The craft of neon signage is dying in Hong Kong, and hopefully this exhibition would bring awareness to this unique heritage that makes Hong Kong’s streetscape so special. You can read more about this topic via my previous post here.

Hong Kong heritage: old Tai Po Police station/ Green Hub

Posted on May 30, 2019 by Toothpicker

Even though Hong Kong is a small city, there are many hidden gems that are off the beaten track, and Green Hub is one of them. I only discovered this place via google map while I was in Tai Po after a visit to the Tsz Shan Monastery. Originally I was simply looking for a place to have lunch, but then I ended up spending hours there, which was completely spontaneous.

Green Hub is situated at the site of the Grade I listed Old Tai Po Police Station up on a Tai Po Wan Tau Tong Hill that overlooks Tai Po. This site was also the location where the British flag-raising ceremony took place, marking the official British takeover of the New Territories in 1899. The Police Station was erected in the same year as the Police Headquarters of the New Territories and lasted until 1949, but eventually closed down in 1987.

In 2010, Kadoorie Farm and Botanic Garden had been selected to transform the Old Tai Po Police Station into a ‘Green Hub for Sustainable Living’. The Hub offers a range of low-carbon living programmes and workshops to help individuals and organisations understand the low-carbon living alternatives to unsustainable consumption that is causing climate change and rapid resource depletion. Opened in 2015, this revitalisation project was recognised with an Honourable Mention in the 2016 UNESCO Asia-Pacific Awards for Cultural Heritage Conservation.

The wooden planks (pictured above) are actually recycled railway sleepers collected from the nearby Tai Po market station

The site comprises of three buildings: Main Building, Canteen Block and Staff Quarters, and they are arranged around an open lawn. The colonial style architecture is an excellent example of east meets west. It features verandah and louvre windows catered for the hot and humid climate in Hong Kong, and Chinese-styled timber roof structure with double-layered pan and roll tiles that are commonly used in Hong Kong’s colonial buildings. The design of the site reflected a utilitarian approach, which adopted a rather irregular form for the Main Building. The conservation team used archive photographs to restore the architectural details, and even repainted the buildings to match the original colour.

An old Camphor Tree Cinnamomum camphora near the entrance

The Canteen Block has been transformed into the Eat Well Canteen to promote low-carbon food culture. The canteen serves fresh, seasonal, locally-sourced, and fair-trade vegetarian dishes that aim to minimise energy during the cooking process, as well as reduce food waste.

Vegetarian food at Eat Well Canteen

Next to the canteen is the kitchen’s garden where herbs and vegetables are grown, and they are used as the ingredients for canteen, so they are guaranteed to be fresh. And on Saturdays, organic vegetables, herbs, and eggs from the Kadoorie farm and the garden would be available for sale in their eco shop. The Canteen also makes and sells homemade bakery products, seasonal sweet or salty pickles and different styles of sauce. Meanwhile, there are regular cooking classes and farming workshops that promotes the ethos of the hub and farm.

The Kitchen garden and eco shop

After lunch, I found out that there was a free one-hour guided tour of the site, so I signed up for it. The tour was very informative and it enabled us to visit the inner quarter that is normally not open to the public.

We first visited the heritage display of the Old Tai Po Police Station that has been carefully preserved. Visitors can see the typical setting and layout of a colonial Police Station with a report room, retention cell and armoury.

In order to fully appreciate this heritage site, one must join the guided tour as it enables visitors to enter the beautiful inner courtyard that is not normally open to the public. The once unappealing inner courtyard has been redesigned to an Enchanted Garden to enhance natural ventilation within the Main Building. Around the courtyard are the Police Quarters that have been converted into a guesthouse. The guest house have twelve rooms that can accommodate 24 guests, and they are available as single, twin, triple-bed to six-bed rooms at reasonable prices.

Standing in the courtyard, it is easier to appreciate the restored decorative architectural details, such as the Dutch gables, windows with voussoir-shaped mouldings and aprons, ornamented fireplaces, chimneys with moulding and cast iron downpipes with hopper-head.

The inner courtyard

Before the tour ended, our guide took us to the Seminar Room where we could observe twenty or more egrets resting not far from the site. Apparently, the northern slope of the Old Police Station is a nesting and breeding site for egrets and herons. Hence, a bird screen is in place along the walking path at the northern side of the Greeb Hub to reduce disturbance to wild birds that nest in the Egretry. The ecologists here continue to monitor the Tai Po Market Egretry, and in the summer of 2015, they counted more birds nesting nearby than before the renovation began.

After leaving Green Hub, I was curious about the red brick buidling nearby and decided to walk up the hill to explore. Built around 1907, this building used to be the Old District Office North and was the earliest seat of the colonial civil administration of the New Territories. The building also housed a magistrate’s court until 1961, but now it is used by the New Territories Eastern Region Headquarters of The Scout Association of Hong Kong. Although you can’t go inside the building, you can walk around outside to appreciate the architecture and the surrounding nature.

Law Ting Pong Scout Centre

It was very calm and quiet as I walked along the path towards the Tai Po Contour Sitting-out Area located up on a small hill. I was surprised to see so much greenery here, which is a huge contrast from the bustling Tai Po market not far away.

As city dwellers, we often think that we need to escape the city in order to find tranquility, yet we forget that nature may be around the corner from where we live. When we look harder, we would find that nature is really everywhere.

Tai Po Contour Sitting-out Area

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Hong Kong heritage: Tai Kwun 2010 vs 2019

Posted on May 25, 2019 by Toothpicker

Since its opening in mid 2018, Tai Kwun (means ‘big station’ in Cantonese) has become the hottest heritage destintation in Hong Kong. Located at the eastern end of Hollywood Road, the 300,000sq ft compound comprises three declared monuments: the former Central Police Station, former Central Magistracy and Victoria Prison. The revitalisation project is the biggest conservation project in Hong Kong –costing HK$3.8 billion– was led by The Hong Kong Jockey Club in partnership with the Hong Kong Government. The aim was to redevelope the site into a world-class heritage and arts centre.

Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron, who are also responsible for the city’s M+ museum of visual culture (opens in 2020), worked with UK conservation architects Purcell, and local firm Rocco Design Architects to revitalise 16 historic buildings, a prison yard and parade ground dating between 1864 and 1925. Aside from restoring the old buildings, two new buildings – JC Contemporary and JC Cube – were added to house an art centre dedicated to contemporary art, and a 200-seat auditorium, respectively.

After the restoration (2019)

Interestingly, I was lucky to have visited the compound just before the restoration works began in 2011. In 2010, the annual deTour creative festival (which coincides with the Business of design week) took place here, so I was able to explore the site and record the exteriors and interiors before the restorations began.

When you look at the photos, you would notice that no significant structural changes were made to the 16 heritage buildings aside from new paint, the removal of wires and some essential restoration works. It is never easy to restore heritage sites, especially a compound with 16 buildings, and I think this project has to be one of the most sucessful cases in Hong Kong (if you look at the disastrous 1881 Heritage in Kowloon, then you would know what I mean).

The exterior of the site in 2010

Entrance – Before and after

The two new buildings are clad with a façade unit system made from 100% recycled cast aluminum, and the units create a contrast with the historical masonry blocks underneath. The the cast aluminum units have a distinctive roughness and texture, which helps to reduce the reflectivity and glare during the daytime. At night, light emitted from the building would be partially screened by the façade units, but without creating light pollution. The new additions have certainly made the site even more ‘instagrammable’ among visitors.

The new JC contemporary & JC Cube designed by Herzog & de Meuron

Wandering inside the JC contemporary building, I was reminded of the new extension at Tate Modern in London, which was also designed by the same architectural firm. The use of concrete and the design of the spiral staircases are very similar. The catch with employing starchitects is that they like to apply their signature styles onto most of their works; the best example is Norman Foster‘s airports – honestly, the world doesn’t need another cloned Foster-style airport! I do hope that the new M+ museum is not going to be a replica of Tate Modern.

Inside the JC Contemporary building: the spiral staircase

Art exhbitions: 1st & 2nd rows – Wing Po So’s 6-part practice; last row: Wong Ping’s animation

The 177-year rich history of the heritage complex reflects Hong Kong’s ups and downs during the British colonial era. Not only Ho Chi Minh was imprisoned here for 2 years in 1931-33, it was also used as a Japanese army base during the Second World War. Visitors can find out the history of the complex at the heritage storytelling spaces, and free guided tours are available daily.

As always, shopping and restaurants play a major role in a complex like this. Thankfully, the shops and restaurants here are mostly independent and local rather than chains like Starbucks or Pizza Express. A cultural centre needs alternative shops and restaurants to differentiate it from other shopping malls, and Tai Kwun has achieved this.

The heritage storytelling space, the former prison cells and a former court room

Although I think the architects of the project have successfully restored and revitalised the complex, I can’t help feeling that ‘something’ is lost in the process as well. Perhaps this is inevitable due to the scale of this project.

When I look at the photos taken inside the prison in 2010, the place had a slightly eerie and atmospheric feel, whereas now, the prison looks more polished and embellished. It is a shame that many of the fascinating old signage and inmate call system were removed too. Without these details, the prison looks more like a film set, and the authenticity is lost. But then again, as most Hong Kongers would say: “Hong Kong is a city with no memory” (old buildings are constantly being torn down and replaced daily), so when it comes to conservation, this probably is the best that you could ever hope for.

The prison cells before the restorations (2010)

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The Arvind Indigo Museum in Ahmedabad, India

Posted on May 20, 2019 by Toothpicker

If you visit Gujarat, you are likely to pass through/visit Ahmedabad – the largest city and former capital of Gujarat. The Old city of Ahmedabad was the first in India to be declared as UNESCO World Heritage City in 2017. The historic city is also known for its textiles industry and it is home to one of the best textiles museums in the world: The Calico Museum of Textiles. Founded in 1949 by the industrialist Gautam Sarabhai and his sister Gira Sarabhai, the museum has a stunning array of Indian textiles dating back to the Mughal period, as well as collections of sacred bronzes, Jaina manuscripts, sculptures, and Indian miniature paintings etc. Visits to the museum must be booked well in advanced as there is only one guided tour per day (except Wed), and no photography is allowed. The 2.5 hour long tour is guided by a knowledgable but rather stern lady, and I found it hard to listen to her and take in all the history and information. Despite the fascinating collection, it was hard to enjoy the tour when being rushed around and forbidden to linger.

Luckily, there is a new museum in the city that is less formal and more relaxing, and it is dedicated to indigo. The new Arvind Indigo Museum is located at the former Kasturbhai Lalbhai Museum, hence it is a bit confusing if you are trying to look for its website. When we visited, the museum had just opened (partially), hence there were no other tourists and no prior booking was needed. Set among tall trees and lush gardens, the Kasturbhai Lalbhai Museum complex consists of two buildings restored by renowned architect Rahul Mehrotra. The colonial structure was built in 1905, but it was closed during our visit. The new indigo collection is called “Alchemy” and it is displayed in the adjacent building, the Claude Batley house built in the 1930s, which showcases indigo-dyed textiles, art and objects created by renowned contemporary artists from Indian and around the world.

First and last rows: Aboubakar Fofana; Second row: Amit Ambalal’s “Birds Of A Feather Flock Together”

Natural and indigo dyeing has made a huge comeback in recent years due to the issue of sustainability in the fashion and textiles industry. Therefore the opening of this museum is a timely one. Indigo is an indigenuous dye and it comes from a native plant called Indigofera tinctoria, grown mostly in Tamil Nadu nowadays.

The chairman and managing director of the 88-year-old textile and denim company Arvind Ltd, Sanjay Lalbhai wanted to pay homage to this magical dye that is closely related to his company and Indian’s heritage, so a 20,000 sqft museum dedicated to the artistic manifestations of indigo was born.

2nd row: Kirit Chitara’s rendition of ‘Mata ni Pachedi’; 3rd row: Hansikar Sharma; 5th row: Bhagyashree Suthar; 6th right and last row: Manish Nai indigo-dyed aluminium and 95 Natural Indigo Sticks installations

The exhibition is ambitious and fascinating because it goes way beyond textiles… there are sculptures, paintings, paper art, and even furniture. You can expect the unexpected here, and I think the curation is top-notch. Whilst the exhibition features many local artists, there are also works by artists from other parts of the world like Malian arist/designer, Aboubakar Fofana, whose beautiful indigo-dyed textile works can be seen hanging at the entrance area and in the courtyard of the new building.

3rd row: Shola Carletti‘s “essence”; 4th row: British duo Based Upon‘s “indigo Fragmented Crack”; 6th: Manisha Parekh’s paintings and British artist Annie Morris‘s sculpture made with indigo-dyed concrete, plaster, sand and steel; 7th, 8th and bottom left: Nibha Sikander; 8th right and bottom right: Sachin Tekade

The exhibition shows how diverse the indigo dye can be, and it is not just restricted to textiles. After the intense guided tour at the Calico Museum, it was pleasant to spend the afternoon here in a more relaxing setting surrounded by beautiful artworks. The museum is due to fully open in 2020, and I look forward to returning here again in the future to see more indigo art works.

1st & 2nd rows: Alwar Balasubramaniam’s indigo landscapes; 3rd row: Tanya Goel; 5th left: Kavin Mehta’s ‘Container’; 5th right: Shihoko Fukumoto’s ‘Time Space’, made with indigo-dyed linen; 7th & 8th rows: Vipul Mahadevia’s “Kimono, the fabric of life”. Bottom row: Aboubakar Fofana’s Indian denim installation

Mumbai’s splendid colonial architecture

Posted on April 7, 2019 by Toothpicker

I arrived late in the evening to Mumbai, and as the cab drove towards Fort (the older part of Mumbai), I was completely capitivated by the impressive colonial architecture out of the window. And in the following days, I spent much of my time wandering around the southern part of Mumbai, which I thought was the best way to appreciate the architecture in this area. Mostly built during the British Raj period, the archiectural styles here include Gothic, Victorian, Neoclassical, Art Deco and Indo-Saracenic. Some of the building styles seem familiar to me, and it was later that I realised they were built by the British architects who were also responsible for some of the famous landmarks in London.

Landmarks

One cannot visit Mumbai without visiting the Unesco world heritage site, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (the railway station was renamed many times, and this rather long name was chosen in 2017), but like most tourists, I prefer to use its former name: Victoria Terminus Station.

Designed by the British architect Frederick William Stevens, the train station took 10 years to complete and opened in 1887 to commemorate the Queen’s Golden Jubilee. At the time, the building was the most expensive structure in Mumbai costing 260,000 Sterling Pounds.

On the Unesco website, it states the following: “an outstanding example of Victorian Gothic Revival architecture in India, blended with themes deriving from Indian traditional architecture… Its remarkable stone dome, turrets, pointed arches and eccentric ground plan are close to traditional Indian palace architecture. It is an outstanding example of the meeting of two cultures, as British architects worked with Indian craftsmen to include Indian architectural tradition and idioms thus forging a new style unique to Bombay.”

The station was being renovated during my visit, and alithough there are guided tours of the train station during the week, I was unable to join because of the weekend and holiday. I decided to explore the station anyhow, and was quite blown away when I went into the cathedral-like Star Chamber. It is called a Star chamber because its ceiling is covered with hundreds of gold stars next to marble columns and intricately carved stone arches. There are also some beautiful stained glass windows on top of the old ticket office counters; looking around, one can’t help but admire the the extraordinary attention to detail.

The railway station suffered from a terrrorist attack in 2008 when two terrorists opened fire and threw grenades at people. 58 people were killed and 104 were injured at this attack, and the terrorist were eventually arrested and executed.

There are 18 platforms at this tratin, and perhaps many foreign visitors would recognise the platform from the film Slumdog millionaire where it acted as the backdrop of the last dance scene.

Municipal Corporation Building

Frederick William Stevens not only built the magnificant Victoria Terminus station, he also built the equally grand Municipal Corporation Building on the opposite side of the road. The Grade IIA heritage Gothic style building took 9 years to build and it was completed in 1893, a few years after the opening of the Victoria Terminus.

Although Stevens received recognition and medals for his achievements in India, he died of malaria at his home in the Malabar Hills in 1900 at the age of only 52, and was buried in the city’s Sewri Christian Cemetery.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya

Another popular tourist destination in Mumbai is the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (not sure why officials think that it is practical to give such long and hard to pronounce names to these popular tourist attractions) or formerly the Prince of Wales Museum of Western India.

Founded in 1905 by prominent citizens of Mumbai, with the help of the government, to commemorate the visit of Prince of Wales, who later became King George V. The Grade I heritage building was built by Scottish architect George Wittet who was known for his Indo-Saracenic style designs and the Gateway of India.

Set in a well laid out garden which retains its original plan, the building was awarded first place for Heritage Building Maintenance by the Indian Heritage Society. The Indo-Saracenic style combines Hindu and Saracenic architectural forms, with some elements of Western architecture; this fusion architectural style is often adopted in public and government buildings in the British Raj, and the palaces of rulers of the princely states.

As I entered the spacious and bright pillared hall, I immediately looked upwards towards the the huge intersecting arches and dome above me. I think I fell in love with this building at that instance. I have always loved Islamic architecture and arts, but this Hindu, Gothic and Mugal fusion style is unique to the British Raj period and I love it.

Not only it is worth visiting the museum for its stunning architecture, the musum also houses about 50,000 artefacts from art to sculptures, porcelain and textiles. It is a bit like the Indian version of London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. I particularly liked the sculptures, Indian miniature paintings, prints and textiles collections. I could easily spend a day here because of the fascinating works and relaxing environment.

I also visited the nearby National Gallery of Modern Art, which is smaller but hosts regular exhibitions of famous artists and sculptors. Designed by Sir Arthur William Blomfield (who built numerous churches in the UK) and his brother Francis B Blomfield, as a residence for the Maharaja of Jaipur, the butterfly-shaped building with a central dome was built in 1936. It was styled after a concept of the Central Hexagon visualised by Sir Edwin Lutyens. It was Lutyens, along with Herbert Baker, who visualised and gave shape to the new capital in Delhi.

National Gallery of Modern Art

Rajabai Clock Tower

The Rajabai Clock Tower is part of the University of Mumbai and it was listed as an Unesco World Heritage site in 2018. Designed by the prolific English Gothic revival architect, Sir George Gilbert Scott, who modeled it on Big Ben in London. In his life time, Scott has designed or altered over 800 buildings including London’s Albert Memorial, Midland Grand Hotel, St Pancras Station, Lincoln’s Inn and the Foreign and Commonwealth Office.

The tower was built in a fusion of Venetian and Gothic styles, and out of the locally available buff coloured Kurla stone. Completed in 1878, Scott was also responsible for The University Library, and you can see the beautiful Venetian style staircase from the gate. Sadly, the tower was closed to the public after it became a frequent spot for those attempting to commit suicide.

David Sassoon Library

Another Venetian-style Gothic Revival building not far from the clock tower is the David Sassoon Library completed in 1870. It was the brainchild of Albert Sassoon, son of the famous Baghdadi Jewish philanthropist, David Sassoon. The building was designed by architects J. Campbell and G. E. Gosling for the Scott McClelland and Company, and was built out of yellow Malad stone. When you look at the facade of the building, you almost think you are standing in Venice rather than Mumbai!

The library is located on Rampart Row, and it is full of heritage architecture. I was lucky enough to visit on a holiday when there was little traffic and pedestrians, which meant that I could take more decent photos without getting run over or pushed over.

Elphinstone College

Across the street from David Sassoon Library stands one the finest Victorian structures in India – Elphinstone College – a Grade I Heritage building. Established in 1856, it is one of the oldest colleges of the University of Mumbai. The Venetian Gothic style building was designed by Trubshaw, supervised by Khan Bahadur Muncherjee Murzban, and completed in 1888.

Mumbai High Court

The Mumbai High Court is a colossal building in the middle of Fort that I did not visit. However, I did get a glimpse of the Gothic style architecture when I was wandering around the area. The dimensions of the building of the court measures 171-meter-long and 57 meters wide. Designed by British engineer Col. James A. Fuller, the building constructions began in 1871 and finished in 1878.

Gateway Of India

The Gateway Of India is an symbolic momument in Mumbai. Constructed to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary to the city in 1924, it is also the spot from where the last of British troops departed the country after India’s independence.

Like I mentioned earlier, it was built by Scottish architect George Wittet (also responsible the the Prince of Wales Museum) in his famous Indo-Saracenic style from yellow basalt and reinforced concrete. Situated opposite the Taj Mahal Palace, it is one of the most popular tourist spot in Mumbai.

The Taj Mahal Palace

The Taj Mahal Palace must be one of the most famous and iconic hotels in the world. Everyone I known who have stayed there told me that it is worth every penny (it is on my list for the next trip). Opened in 1903, it is India’s first luxury hotel. The original Indian architects were Sitaram Khanderao Vaidya and D. N. Mirza, and the project was completed by an English engineer, W. A. Chambers. It is another good example of the Indo-Saracenic style, with a stunning central staircase designed by built by Khansaheb Sorabji Ruttonji.

The hotel survived a horrific terrorist attack in 2008, which resulted in 167 people being killed. It took several months to rebuild the popular heritage section of the hotel, and the hotel reopened after extensive repairs.

Religious buildings:

St. Thomas Cathedral

The 300-year-old church St Thomas Cathedral was the first Anglican church in Mumbai (Bombay) and was consecrated in 1718. Built in a neo classical Gothic style, it is said that the roof was constructed to resist cannon attack. It is a beautiful and tranquil church in the lovely Horniman Circle Gardens, so it is certainly worth visiting. After the completion of a major restoration work the cathedral was selected in 2004 for a UNESCO Asia-Pacific heritage conservation award.

Maneckji Sett Agiary fire temple

A few years ago, I visited an exhibition on Zoroastrianism at SOAS in London, which I found really interesting. Before that, I didn’t know much about this religion (despite the fact that it is one of the oldest religions in the world), and I certainly didn’t know much about Mumbai’s Parsi community. As of 2019, there are 167 fire temples in the world, of which 45 in Mumbai,105 in the rest of India, and 17 in other countries.

I discovered the location of this Parsi fire temple by chance from Google map, and I decided to pay a visit as it is located only 10 mins on foot from where I was staying. Unfortunately, non-Zoroastrians are not allowed into the fire temple, so I could only admire the facade from the pavement.

Established in 1733 by Seth Manekji Nowroji Sett, the son of a wealthy Parsi trader, the temple is the second oldest in Mumbai, and it is known for its striking architecture. The external façade features the mythological guardian creature known as lamassu (the protective deities depicted as hybrid figures including a human head, a body of an ox or a lion, and wings of a bird), and they act as the protector of the gateway.

Bomanjee Hormarjee Wadia Clock Tower

Not far from the fire temple stands a clock tower featuring 2 lamassus on four sides of the structure. Built in 1882, the Bomanjee Hormarjee Wadia Clock Tower fell into desrepair and was restored by conservation architect Vikas Dilawari in 2017. The commemorative fountain was erected in honour of Bomanjee Homarjee Wadia, a great contributer in the service of the city who dies in 1862. The architectural style borrows from the Persepolis style employed in other Parsi religious buildings, and it is an intriguing monument which stands in the middle of the road.

Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount or Mount Mary Church

I spent the last day in Mumbai with my local friend, who suggested visiting some sights around Bandra as I was staying in the nearby Khar West neighbourhood. We visited Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount (also known as Mount Mary Church), a Roman Catholic Basilica on a hillock, overlooking the Arabian Sea. The history of the church dates back to the 1570 when Jesuit priests from Portugal brought the wooden statue of Our lady Mary to the current location. A chapel was contructed in 1640, but over the centuries, it was destroyed and rebuilt many times. The current church was rebuilt in 1904 in the gothic style.

The interior of the church features two rows of teak wood columns and murals depicting the life of Mary. The church did remind me of the churches in Portugal, colours and style of the interior are undoubtedly more Portuguese than British.

Another Roman church with a Portuguese history is Gloria Church (or Nossa Senhora de Gloria) built in 1911-13 on one of the oldest Roman Catholic church sites in the city. The current Gloria church was built in English Gothic Revival style.

Horniman circle gardens

If all the people and street vendors are removed from the surrounding area of Horniman circle gardens, you would probably think that you are in London rather than Mumbai. The large circular garden which overs an area of 10,101 square metres in Fort (known as Bombay Green in the 18th century) is surrounded by a row of grand buildings called Elphinstone Circle. Although construction works at the Horniman Circle Gardens started in 1821, it took a total of 12 years to complete. The design of the garden was modeled on John Nash‘s Park Crescent near Portland Place in London. The initial purpose of the garden was to provide some open space for the locals to sit back and relax. After India’s Independence, the Circle was renamed Horniman Circle, which refers to Benjamin Horniman, an English journalist and editor of The Bombay Chronicle, particularly notable for his support of Indian independence.

The Elphinstone Circle (named after Lord John Elphinstone, the former Governor of Bombay) was laid out in 1869, and designed by James Scott as part of the redevelopment of Bombay which began under the Governorship of Sir Bartle Frere in the 1860s. Most of the buildings now house either international banks like HSBC or chains like Starbucks.

At the other end of the garden stands a white majestic colonial building – the Town Hall of Mumbai – which houses the Asiatic Society Library. Designed by Colonel Thomas Cowper, the building took 10 years to build and was completed in 1833. With a span of 200 feet and height of 100 feet, the building was made of stones brought from England and designed in a neo-classical style. The entrance of the building is adorned with a Grecian portico and 8 impressive Doric styled pillars, with a flight of 30 steps leading up to it.

Not far from the Horniman circle garden is the Flora Fountain (also known as Hutatma Chowk) built in 1864 by the Agri-Horticultural society of Western India.. It is an ornamentally sculpted monument that depicts the Roman goddess Flora, and it was declared as India’s Grade I Heritage structures in 1960.

Opposite the fountain is the magnificent Edwardian Neo Classical style Ismail Building built in 1906. After being dilapidated for years, the Grade IIA listed building was refurbished by conservation architect Kirtida Unwala, Mona Sanghvi, along with Zara’s in-house team of architects in 2017 to house the Spanish retailer, Zara. Spread across a massive 51,300 square feet area over five storeys, the interiors of the store looks contemporary but has kept the original bricks to emphasise the historical origins of the building.

There are numerous beautiful colonial buildings in Mumbai and I am unable to list them all. I think it is best to go to Fort and Colaba on Sundays and explore on foot. There were a few times when security guards of these buildings forbade me from taking photos, but one did invite me into the building for a short tour.

Majestic House (the former Majestic Hotel) was built in 1909 just after the Taj Mahal, by the same architecture firm, W. A. Chambers & Co.

The Indo-Saracenic style Anjuman-i-Islam School was designed by James Willcocks and overseen by Khan Bahadur Muncherjee Cowasjee Murzban. It was completed in 1893 and is located opposite the Victoria Terminus station.

Naval Dockyard was established in 1735 by the East India Company and the existing structure with a clock tower dates back to 1770s.

The Edwardian Baroque style building with a dome used to house the famous English agricultural machinery manufacturer Marshall and Sons. It was designed by Charles Frederick Stevens, the son of F.W. Stevens in 1905.

Suba Palace hotel is housed inside a heritage building in Colaba

The Churchill Chambers in Colaba

To be continued…

Revisiting Hong Kong’s Western district

Posted on June 8, 2014 by Toothpicker

The Hong Kong Museum of Medical Sciences

Last year I wrote about Hong Kong’s mid-levels and Sheung Wan districts, and within a year, the streetscape has changed immensely in this rapidly-changing city, so I have returned to see what is new and how things have changed.

My journey began from Mid-Level’s Caine Road, the once quiet residential street is now more bustling than ever thanks to the opening of new cafes and eateries. One of the new addition is IPC foodlab (38A), an organic cafe that advocates locally grown produce. The cafe provides eat-in or takeaway options and sells a range of healthy food products from around the world. Right next to it is Maison Eric Kayser Artisan Boulanger Café, the French boulanger’s third outlet in Hong Kong. Aside from the bakery, there is also a small bar area for quick lunched/coffees, although the sandwiches are pricey, the quality is high. Another good lunch option is il bel paese (85), a long-standing Italian deli/grocery shop that has a few tables in the quiet back room where one can have a simple meal or coffee.

Top left: IPC foodlab; top right: Rosie Jean’s cafe; bottom left: salad at il bel paese; Bottom right: Freshness coffee

It is hard to miss the global coffee craze in recent years, and as a coffee lover, I would be more than happy try a new independent coffee shop than the regular chains. And this craze is evident on the west side on Caine street as there are three new cafes here including the kids-friendly Rosie Jean’s Cafe (119), which provides a playground on the terrace for kids to play while parents can chill inside; one for the grown up and coffee connaisseur, Filters lane (111); and a cosy and friendly Freshness coffee (138). Having tasted Filter Lane‘s americano and drip filter, I would say that latter tastes better as I find their americano too acidic for my liking. Like Filter Lane, Freshness coffee is opened by a coffee enthusiast, I enjoyed their coffee but I found the service a bit too attentive, which made me feel slightly uneasy as I was the only customer there at the time.

Flats or trainers are preferable here as there are steps and slopes everywhere…

The central and the western district of Hong Kong is full of steps and slopes, so high-heels are not recommended if you intend to walk a lot around this area. Ladder Street is one of the famous street (or rather steps) that starts from Queen’s Road Central and ends on Caine Road. And the Hong Kong Museum of Medical Sciences is just off Ladder Street and 5 mins walk from Caine Road.

Hong Kong Museum of Medical Sciences

Shamefully when I lived in Hong Kong (quite a while ago), I rarely visited local museums and I only found out about this ‘hidden’ museum in recent years. Established in 1996, this unique institution charts the historical development of medical sciences in Hong Kong. The institute occupies the original site of The Old Bacteriological institute, established in 1906 as the first purpose-built medical laboratory in Hong Kong and later the Pathological Institute. The listed Edwardian style architecture is a hidden gem in Hong Kong and it even has a small but pleasant herbal garden. The entrance fee to the museum is $20, and visitors can wander around the 11 galleries including a temporary exhibition on the ground floor. The museum is not very big but there are many interesting displays including x-rays of bounded feet, old medical tools and equipments, and information on historical events such as plagues to recent epidemic outbreaks in Hong Kong. I am glad that many original architectural details have been preserved inside the building, and it is one of the few places left in Hong Kong where visitors can imagine what it used to be like back in the colonial days.

Po Hing Fong – 2nd & bottom row left: Po’s Atelier; bottom right: Blake garden

The back of the entrance of the museum are steps that lead me to Po Hing Fong and Blake garden, an area where the bubonic plague broke out in Hong Kong back in 1894. Now the area is becoming trendier where new shops and cafes can be found, and one of them is Po’s Atelier (62 Po Hing Fong), a artisinal bakery/cafe opened by Japanese baker and chef, Masami Asano. I bought a small but pricey Oolong tea-flavoured loaf to try and I found it ok rather than outstanding. Right next to it is Cafe Deadend that serves food all day in a relaxing setting. Nearby on Tai Ping Shan Street, there is also a new tea house, Teakha, which is popular with tea lovers.

Square Street – 2nd row left & middle: Droog; 2nd row right: Square Street; Bottom left: Saffron bakery cafe; Bottom right: Lof 10, a new cafe on Lam Terrace

Walking towards the east, I was pleasantly surprised by Dutch design collective, Droog‘s new store in Hong Kong on Square Street (47). Aside from the store, it also offers a gallery, dining room, outdoor kitchen, rooftop terrace and a bedroom. I love the calories-calculating stairs, it’s humourous, quirky and very ‘droog’.

Further down, there is a lifestyle/fashion accessoires shop Square Street (15) founded by Swedish designers, David Ericsson and Alexis Holm. All products here are designed and developed by the founders themselves, David is the designer of VOID Watches while Alexis is the designer of gram Footwear.

Top left & right: Man Mo cafe; Main: Bibo and Upper Lascar Row; 3rd & bottom row left: Cupping room; Bottom right: Catfe

Upper Lascar Row or Cat street has been a popular tourist attraction for years because of the row of antique shops and stalls here. Bargains and authentic items are hard to find these days, but with two new eateries, the street is no longer confined to tourists or bargain seekers.

Bibo is a new art-centric French restaurant that showcases installations and works from established names from Basquiat, Kusama, Hirst, Koons, and Murakami to Banksy, Kaws and Invader. Further down is Man Mo cafe, a new fusion dim sum cafe opened by a Swiss chef. I had lunch with my friend here and we really enjoyed the relaxing atmosphere. However, the dim sum was slightly hit and miss, some dishes were excellent while some were average. Yet it is a courageous move for this expat to reinvent dim sum in a city that is well known for it.

On Queens Road Central, the Assie-style Cupping Room is popular choice for coffee lovers. The cafe is bright and modern, accompanied by friendly and attentive service. The owner of the cafe is a 2-time Hong Kong Barista Champion, and the cafe is renowned for their single origin filter coffees (brewed to order). I was recommended Boa Vista and it arrived with some information on its origin and taste. The coffee does not come with milk, which shows how ‘serious’ they are about the coffee… for around $60 per cup, it is not something that I would order daily, so this was a treat for me. On Jervois street nearby, there are also two cafes where serious coffee is being served including the tiny Catfe (85) and Barista Jam (126-128).

King George V memorial park

Over the past decade, new restaurants, shops and galleries have all moved upwards and westwards from Central, and this gentrification has caused business owners to look beyond Sheung Wan towards the more residential Sai Ying Pun and Kennedy Town.

The word Sai means “west” and Ying Pun means “camp”, especially military camp because this was where the early British military stayed. One of the landmark in the area is the King George V memorial park built in 1936, the year that King George V died. Built on a slope, the masonry walls of the park were found to be the remnant of an important medical complex in early Hong Kong. There are many old trees growing on the walls here and it is quite relaxing to walk under the shades. At the moment, part of the park is closed due to a new MTR station being built here, things will no doubt change a lot when the station finally opens later in the year.

Top left: La Rotisserie on Third Street; the rest: Glow on Second Street

Apart from the MTR station, the completion of the city’s second outdoor escalator on Centre Street (right by the Centre Street market) has also brought about changes to the area. On both High street and Second Street, new Western style restaurants are opening up constantly. I stumbled upon a small oyster bar and seafood grill, Glow on Second Street and decided to try it out. The lunch set included a ceasar salad, garlic bread and half a grilled lobster with a side purple potato mash. And together with coffee, the bill came to HK$168, which is fairly reasonable for the quality and environment.

Top left and middle: Centre Street and the new escalator; top right: Centre Street market; 2nd row left: a noodle shop; 2nd row middle, right & 3rd row left: Tsi Lai Heung Egg Roll Shop

Like the original escalator in Soho, this new escalator has brought convenience to the local residents and injected a new vibe to the area, but the downside is that property and rental prices are now soaring. This also means local businesses have been squeezed out and the once vibrant local community will soon disappear.

I love the small traditional family-run shops in Hong Kong, but sadly they are disappearing quicker than the opening of Starbucks. Years ago, my friend took me to Tsi Lai Heung Egg Roll Shop on Third Street (66) where egg rolls and other traditional Chinese sweets are freshly made by hand on the premise. I don’t come here often but when I do, I can never resist buying a few packets of egg rolls, ‘Phoenix roll’ (a flat egg roll filled with shredded coconut) and other traditional snacks because the quality is so much better than the prepacked ones from other more well-known brands.

Further down on Centre Street, there is a long-standing dessert shop, Yuen Kee (32), which is famous for their traditional Chinese dessert soups like sweet almond, black sesame or walnut. This family business has been around for a hundred years, and the current owner is the third-generation of their family. The place has barely changed over the years, yet it remains popular with the locals, people don’t just come for the desserts but also for nostalgic reasons. It would be a real shame to see these shops disappear due to gentrification in the area.

Top left: Kau Yan Tsung Tsin Church; the rest: the old Tsan Yuk Maternity Hospital & The Conservancy Association Centre for Heritage

My last stop in the area ends at The Conservancy Association Centre for Heritage (CACHe), a non-profit conservation group on 36A Western Street. At first, I did not realise that the entrance to the centre is actually on Third Street, but I was happy to wander around the old Tsan Yuk Maternity Hospital (now the Western District Community Centre). The three-storey Georgian style building is a listed building built in 1922. The maternity hospital was opened by the English missionary group London Missionary Society, but it eventually moved to a new premise on Hospital Road (opposite the King George V memorial park) in 1955 due to bed shortages and limited places for patients.

It took me a while to find the entrance as it was covered by scaffolding, but once inside, I was pleasantly surprised to see many original architectural features like the windows, fireplaces and high ceiling. In the main room, there was an exhibition Hong Kong in the Storm – Hong Kong Typhoon Historical Photo Exhibition showcasing many historical photos and invaluable collectibles that documents the history of Typhoons in Kong Kong. The centre also organises workshops, talks and walks related to Hong Kong’s heritage, so it is worth checking the website out for future events.

Walking in the area, I noticed some old ‘tong laus’ (tenement buildings built in late 19th century to the 1960s) and it would be sad to see these buildings being demolished. Gentrification is not the issue, but the government or urban planning team needs to get more involved to maintain a balance between the old and the new. I hope that even when the new MTR station opens, the area will not completely lose its authentic feel, but then again, this may only be my wishful thinking.

The debate of 27 Lugard Road in Hong Kong

Posted on May 11, 2014 by Toothpicker

The rooftop with possibly the best view of Hong Kong?

Since last year, there has been much debate regarding the future of the century-old historic house at 27 Lugard Road up on the Peak of Hong Kong. It all started when Hong Kong’s Town Planning Board approved the conversion of this Grade II listed historical building into a boutique hotel, despite strong opposition from the Central and Western District Councils. The new owner, Developer Crown Empire bought it for HK$384 million in 2012 and proposed to turn it into a 17-room boutique hotel to be opened in 2016. Yet aside from opposition from the district councils, it has also caused an outrage among the public due to concern for its impact on one of Hong Kong’s most popular hiking trails where it is situated. Since the Peak was solely reserved for Westerners in the colonial days, many lavish colonial style houses were built here. Sadly most of them had been demolished over the years and so historical houses like this is rare to find these days.

While I was in Hong Kong, I had the opportunity to visit the site with conservationists from Hong Kong University’s The Architectural Conservation Programmes. The objective of the visit was ‘to gain a deeper understanding of the feasibility of integrating conservation and development‘. Using Tai O heritage hotel and Cheong Fatt Tze mansion in Penang as examples, the conservationists question whether it would be possible to achieve a sustainable conservation-cum-development. Heritage b & bs have proved to be highly successful in West esp. in the U.K., yet this concept is still fairly new in Hong Kong and there is still much confusion about the proposal of this development.

Left: the steep slope leading up to the house; middle: Petitions opposing the development; right: a red mail box outside

In order to get to the house, we had to walk for about 20 minutes on the narrow and mostly shady Lugard Road hiking trail until we reached a 100-metre steep slope and the house’s front gate is situated on the top of the slope. We saw petitions and banners opposing the plan along the trail by Alliance for a beautiful Hong Kong, a local Environmental Concern Group that aims “to promote aesthetic values and the integrity of the natural environment in Hong Kong’s public areas, both urban and rural.” This attracted the attention of many passing hikers, who would stop to sign the petition.

Constructed in 1914, the house was designed by Lennox Godfrey Bird on the land bought by his brother in a public auction. The house was bought by the Taikoo Dockyard and Engineering company in 1930 and since then it has been used as a residence for the company’s staff and family. The house’s old tennis court (now the swimming pool) was bombed by the Japanese in 1941, which also hid some of the family’s silver (I wonder what happened to it?). Due to damage during the war, the house was not rehabilitated until 1950 by the bachelor owner of ‘Kelly & Walsh’. The house has since changed owners a few times and restorations and conversions were made over the years.

Despite the war damage and several conversions, the neo-classical colonial style house still manages to preserve some of its authentic features, notably the segmental arches, columns and decorative stucco seen on the facade and inside. I was also thrilled to see a red letter box outside of the gate, which reminded me of the days when people used to write and receive letters instead of just sending emails and sms. This box is certainly not big enough for our Amazon and online shopping that we receive via the post these days!

Surprisingly, the house is not as big as I imagined, the interior of the house also looks ‘newer’ than I expected with fully modernised kitchen and bathrooms. There are crystals chandeliers hanging from the ceilings and original fireplaces, hence we can find three chimney stacks on the rooftop. The view of Hong Kong from the balcony of two of the rooms at the front is simply spectacular. I wonder what was on the ex-tenants’ minds when they used to wake up to see this view every morning?

The house’s swimming pool occupies most of the outdoor area but there is a decent size garden with some tall trees and plants. The view of the house from the garden reminded me of the slow and relaxing vibe captured in the black-and-white photos of Hong Kong’s colonial days. This pace and ambience is very hard to find in Hong Kong now.

Lugard Road trail

After the house visit, my friend and I completed the circular trail, which took another 45 minutes. It has been years since I have walked along this popular trail, and it is easy to understand the public concern regarding the impact of this development on the environment as it is one of the most pleasant and relaxing trails in Hong Kong. Aside from the amazing trees and plantations, hikers can also enjoy the breathtaking views of Hong Kong for free.

However, I am also wondering if restrictions are placed to prevent extensive conversions on the plot and house, then is there a possibility to strike a balance and minimal impact on its surroundings? The conservationists’ use the multiple award-winning Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion as an example to demonstrate that this can be achieved when done properly. Yet judging from other similar developments in Hong Kong, (e.g the hideous newly-converted Wai Chai market), it’s hard not to worry that the house may end up looking like a Disneyland castle.

I think that the Town Planning Board has mishandled the situation by ignoring opposition voices before approving the proposal. The Board and developers owe the public a more detailed explanation on what they plan to achieve and how they will achieve it in a sustainable way. I don’t know how much power the conservationists have over the developers, but if the developers can work with conservations architects instead of commercial ones to restore the house rather than ‘destroying’ the original appeal and features, then this project may be feasible (perhaps the Planning Board should seek advice from Singapore).

Hong Kong’s town planning is like a joke, and since the government is capable of constantly messing things up, let’s see whether the project will turn out to be like Tai O heritage hotel or another Wai Chai market… Meanwhile, I am going to turn a blind eye until 2016 when all will be revealed.

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Category Archives: Colonial architecture

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Colonial architecture and churches in Kochi

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Revisiting Hong Kong’s Western district

The debate of 27 Lugard Road in Hong Kong