Main: a view of the magnificent Alhambra; bottom left: Carrera del Darro; bottom right: Paseo de los Tristes ( passage of the sad ones)
From Cordoba, I took a 2.5-hour bus ride to my last destination in Andalusia, Granada. Unlike Seville and Cordoba, my first impression of the city was rather mixed. First of all, I didn’t expect to see so many hippies there, and I didn’t feel as safe as I did in the previous cities. Yet somehow the city grew on me and on the last night before heading back to London, I had the most memorable and wonderful evening there.
After my short stay, I discovered that Granada is most beautiful and ‘spiritual’ at night especially around Albayzin ( and with the full moon). For some reason, Granada possesses some kind of spiritual quality that I did not sense in the other two cities, is this the reason why it attracts so many hippies? Does it have something to do with the position of the Alhambra, which seems to dominate and overlook the city?
Granada’s beauty is best appreciated at night especially when under a full moon
I stayed at the design/boutique-style Shine Albayzin on the Carrera del Darro, both the facade and interior is quite beautiful, however, there are a few practical problems due to the building being very old, i.e. thin walls/ floorboards that penetrate sound and plumbing and hot water issue. Its location, though, is perfect for exploring and getting lost in the maze-like Albayzin.
Shine Albayzin
Sights
After traveling in Spain for almost a week, I wanted to do less sight-seeing, so apart from The Alhambra and a few smaller sights, I spent most of the time hiking up and down and wandering in Albayzin and the former Jewish quarter, Realejo ( I felt pretty fit after the 2 days). The Moorish influence is more evident here than the last two cities, especially on its architecture, and the best example no doubt is The Alhambra.
Top left: Catedral de Granada; Top right and bottom right: Iglesia de San Gil y Santa Ana; Bottom left: Alcaiceria.
I did not realise how much time is needed to explore the grounds of this massive Moorish palace/fortress ( which also includes Palacio de Carlos V) until I got there, and I probably didn’t leave enough time as I felt quite rushed towards the closing time. I believe at least three hours are needed to explore it properly.
It also didn’t help with the rather confusing layout ( due to the fact that it was rebuilt and expanded by different rulers over several centuries), instead of one big palace, there are several different palaces and gardens scattered all over the site. Though once inside, I was quite blown away by the Moorish/ Islamic decorations and exquisite craftsmanship. The palaces seem to evoke one’s imagination, and I felt like I was transported back in time… One could imagine how splendid the site must have looked centuries ago under the Moorish rule.
Located inside Palacio de Carlos V is the Museum of the Alhambra, which is not to be missed. The artifacts trace the history and culture of the Spanish-Islamic period between the ninth to sixteenth centuries, and showcase many ceramic art work, notably the original Vase of the Gazelles ( a copy can be seen inside the Nasrid Palace). Another highlight of the site is the garden at General Life, which I am sure would look more wonderful during spring and summer.
The Alhambra and General Life
As I was leaving the Alhambra at its closing time, I walked past the Parador San Francisco on the way out ( located just by the entrance/exit inside the complex), and I decided to go into the cafe/bar for a coffee. It turned out that the restaurant’s terrace has a lovely garden, some remaining ruin of the former palace and a great view of General Life.
Built in the 15th century, by order of the Catholic Kings, the Parador used to be a Franciscan convent, and is situated on top of the remains of a Nasrid Palace. The menu prices at their restaurant are the most expensive I have encountered since my arrival in Andalusia, however, you can still enjoy the historical and enchanting surrounding for the price of a coffee or tea.
Parador San Francisco
If you look on Tripadvisor for attractions in Granada, you will find that on the top of the list is not The Alhambra but the Fundacion Rodriguez Acosta! Bizarrely, this little known artist’s studio is not even listed in many guidebooks ( partly because it was only officially opened to the public in 2012), yet it beat the UNESCO world heritage site and received top rating by 41 reviewers. Well, this is the ‘flaw’ of Tripadvisor and other travel websites with a similar rating system, the fact is that 6000 people reviewed The Alhambra but not everyone gave it full marks, whereas the 41 people visited this site and gave it full marks.
After my visit here, I can say that although I find this place absolutely mesmerising and unique, this is not on the same level and scale as The Alhambra. A visit is conducted with a private guide, and since I was the only visitor (again), I had the opportunity to ask as many question as I possibly could…
The all-white villa is not a residence as one would expect, but the art studio of a not so well known Spanish artist, José María Rodríguez-Acosta. Designed by the artist and an architect, the el carmen was built between 1916 to 1930, and is thought to be inspired by The Alhambra ( not far from this site). Yet the style here is very eclectic with influences from the Renaissance, Gothic, Roman and Moorish. Rodríguez-Acosta was from a wealthy banking family, and so money was not an issue for the artist. He traveled extensively and collected art works from around the globe, though most sculptures in his gardens are copies rather than the original. According to my guide, the artist requested all the documents of the art work he bought to be destroyed by his death, no one understood the motive behind this act, and the origins of these art work remain a mystery.
My tour concentrated mostly on its garden, which is built over several layers and has a spectacular view of the city ( similar to the Alhambra). One of the most fascinating area of the building is the maze-like underground gallery… I asked the guide if she thought the artist used to have fun parties down here, and she answered promptly, “No doubt!”.
The tour ended at the Instituto Gómez Moreno, a new annex inside the foundation that display a range of art work and archaeological artifacts by the Granada-bornarchaeologist and historian, Manuel Gómez–Moreno.
Fundacion Rodriguez Acosta
Back in the city centre, I decided to skip the Cathedral and visited the Palacio de la Madraza next to the Cathedral instead, a sight often overlooked by tourists. The building was the location of the first Islamic university founded in 1349 and is now part of the University of Granada. The facade of the building is in Baroque style because it was turned into a palace later on, and fortunately the architects kept the sala de mihrab where the public can visit today.
The visit can only be conducted with a guide and the tour itself is short because only a few rooms are open to the public. However, it is still worth a visit because of the beautiful restored mihrab and extraordinary coffered ceiling in The Sala de los Caballeros Veinticuatro upstairs.
Palacio de la Madraza
Albayzin
Like I mentioned earlier, I love the hilly and Moorish residential district, Albayzin ( also a declared World Heritage site). Besides many historical sights and churches, there are also restaurants and shops in the area. The area has been occupied since the Roman period, and it became the quarter of Arab and Jewish craftsmen and traders in the mid 14th century.
The area offers unbeatable views of the Alhambra esp. up on the Mirador San Nicolás ( the view at night is most stunning). Other interesting sights include the Baños Árabes El Bañuelo, Museo Arqueológico de Granada ( currently closed for renovations), the 16th century Iglesia del Salvador ( built over the former Main Mosque of Albayzin), Palacio de los Córdova ( originally built in 1530 but was demolished in 1919 and rebuilt in its current location in the 1960s), Fundación Mezquita de Granada and El Monasterio de la Concepción etc. It is very easy to get lost in the area, so the tactic is to allow oneself to be lost and explore with an sense of adventure… and not to do it in a hurry…
Top left and right: Palacio de los Córdova; second and third row left: Baños Árabes El Bañuelo; third row right: El Monasterio de la Concepción; Bottom left: Fundación Mezquita de Granada
Art
Since I didn’t do much planning before arriving at Granada, I was not awared that the Museo de Bellas Artes is located inside the Alhambra complex, and so I rushed through the museum quite quickly, which was a bit of a shame.
In the city centre, I stumbled upon the (free) contemporary art gallery, Centro Jose Guerrero near the Palacio de la Madraza. The gallery is dedicated to the the most celebrated local artist: abstract expressionist José Guerrero (1914-91), who was born in Granada but found fame in New York in the 1950s. The gallery has a permanent collection of the artist’s work on the top floor and temporary exhibitions take place on the other floors. The current exhibition is William Christenberry, an American photographer/sculptor/painter whose work is often inspired by his childhood spent in Alabama.
His photographs and architectural models of houses or buildings in his home town documented over the years are intriguing, nostalgic and poetic. Although there are personal meanings behind these photographs, the images also provide viewers a glimpse of the disappearing American south accompanied by some fascinating local stories. The “Klan room” dedicated to the Ku Klux Klan is also powerful and thought-provoking.
Centro Jose Guerrero
My 8/9 day trip to Andalusia exceeded my expectations in many ways, aside from the historical sights, excellent food and wine, I was most touched by the hospitality of its people. Most of the people I encountered were warm, friendly and helpful whenever help is needed. This made the trip more meaningful than an average sightseeing trip, and I cannot wait to return again one day!
To be continued…