Top: Plaza de España; 2nd row left: Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo; 2nd row middle, right & 3rd row: Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija; Bottom left: Hospital de los Venerables; Bottom right: Alhambra.
I have always love azulejos/ ceramic tiles, and I was especially escatic when I was in Portugal because there is beautiful tilework everywhere. The traditional art form was introduced by the Moors about 6 centuries ago, besides Portugal, Seville’s Hispano-Moresque tile industry also flourished by adopting old techniques like cuerda seca (‘dry string’) and cuenca.
Seville’s Triana district was once the ceramic centre but like many traditional arts and crafts around the world, this is a dying art form and only a few azulejos shops remain today. However, inside the former ceramic factory, Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo (CAAC), there is still some interesting tile work that can be seen as a backdrop for the contemporary art display.
Although the demise of the ceramic tile industry is inevitable, the footprints of its glory days are still visible everywhere in Andalusia today. Aside from different palacios and historical sites, they are used as signs for shops and restaurants, street advertising, and simply as decorations ( or as cooling system) for churches and houses. The themes of the tile work vary, but two particularly interesting themes include scenes with the cities’ landmarks as the backdrop and scenes that depict cities’ past/ traditional way of life.
City landmarks
The Giralda bell tower and Torre del Oro ( The Gold Tower) are often used in Seville, while the tower at the Mezquita de Córdoba is used in Cordoba as the backdrop of the art work.
History, traditional life and bullfighting
The cities’ history ( including lives under the Roman and Moorish rules) and the traditional way of living are common themes for these tile work. And not surprisingly, scenes of bullfighting are often depicted too.
Religion
With so many monasteries, convents and churches in the region, tile work with religious themes can also be found at these sanctuaries. However, unlike the Portuguese who often cover the entire facade with amazing azulejos, Andalusians are more low-key and would create smaller plaques.
Bars and cafes
Beautiful tile work outside of restaurants and cafes can attract passerby’s attention, so it can be a good marketing strategy…
Shops
The same rule applies to shops, esp. ceramic artisans ( obviously) and even pharmacies!
Last but not least, tiles used on the facades of architecture can also enhance the aesthetics of the buildings and streets. And interestingly, every building’s tile work is unique, so it is a joy and visual feast for passerby. When you next visit Andalusia, don’t forget to admire the traditional and beautiful street art.
