William Morris’ Red House in Bexleyheath

bexleyheath

bexleyheath  bexleyheath

Architecture in Bexleyheath

 

Although I live in London, there are still many areas of the city that I am unfamiliar with or have never been to. I have long wanted to visit William Morris‘ former residence Red House in Bexleyheath, but somehow never got round to it. Since August is a quiet period, I decided to venture out to the SE part of Greater London on a sunny day.

To my surprise, the town centre of bexleyheath has some interesting historic buildings like Trinity Baptist Chapel (1868) and Christ Church (1872–7), and it feels more ‘Kent’ than London. After a 15-minute walk from Bexleyheath train station, I reached the National Trust-run heritage building and garden in a quiet residential area. With my National Art pass, I was able to get free entry and arrived in time for the guided tour.

 

red house

red house william morris  red house william morris

 

Commissioned in 1859 by William Morris, founder of the Arts & Crafts movement, Red House was designed by his friend and architect Philip Webb which completed in 1860. At the time, Upton was a hamlet on Bexley Heath, a largely picturesque area dotted with cottages, medieval ruins, and Tudor mansion (Hall Place). Intended as a post-wedding house for him and his new wife Jane, Morris financed the project with money inherited from his wealthy family, and dreamed of the house becoming a ‘Palace of Art’, a place where his artist friends could decorate the walls with stories of medieval legends. Influenced by Medievalism and Medieval-inspired Neo-Gothic styles, the building was constructed based on Morris‘ ethos of craftsmanship and artisan skills, which later became known as the Arts and Crafts movement.

 

red house william morris

red house william morris  red house william morris

red house william morris

red house william morris

red house william morris

red house william morris

 

Summer is definitely a good time to visit the house and garden, and since it was during the week and summer holiday period, there were very few visitors during my visit. Before entering the house, I spent some time walking around the north side of the 2-acre garden, and it made me feel at ease immediately.

Red House garden was first laid out over 150 years ago and successive owners have put their own stamp on the garden. The garden was important to Morris, hence he and Philip Webb put a lot of thought into the design of the garden. They wanted it to ‘clothe the house’ to soften the effect of the startling red brick. Little of the original garden design remains, so Red House’s head gardener Robert Smith and his team embarked on an ambitious project to re-introduce some of the spirit of Morris’s ‘lost garden’.

 

red house william morris

red house william morris  red house william morris

red house william morris

red house william morris  red house william morris

 

Inside the house, it was Philip Webb who designed most of the furniture, while Morris, Jane, and his friend/painter Edward Burne-Jones designed all the furnishings including windows, wallpaper and tiles. Their collaborative works paid tribute to medieval craftsmanship, for example the glass in the gallery features flowers painted by Morris painted flowers, birds painted by Webb, overlaid with Burne Jones‘ work depicting Fortuna. On some windows (see the round one below) and tiles, inscriptions of Morris‘ motto: ‘Si je puis” (if I can) can also be seen.

Another notable piece of furniture is a settle-cum-cupboard in the landing designed by Webb, with door panels painted by Morris which depict a scene from Malory entitled ‘Sir Lancelot bringing Sir Tristram and the Belle Iseult to Joyous Gard‘. The picture features Edward Burne-Jones offering cherries to his wife Georgie and Janey Morris and with Morris’ servant, ‘Red Lion Mary’ in the background.

 

red house william morris

red house william morris  red house william morris

img_0523

Orginal architcetural plans and belongings of Morris are exhibited in one of the rooms on the ground floor.

 

red house william morris

red house william morris  red house william morris

red house william morris

red house william morris

Dining room

 

red house william morris

red house william morris  red house william morris

red house william morris

red house william morris

 

As visitors walk up to the first and second floor, they can admire Morris‘ patterned wallpaper which covers the ceiling suppored by wooden beams. In a small room on the first floor, there is a catalogue of Morris & Co‘s archive wallpapers. In 1862, Morris, Marshall, Faulkner & Co began to design woodblock-printed wallpaper for the house, thus Morris & Co was born, a company still exists today producing wallpaper and textiles based on Morris‘ designs and ethos.

 

red house william morris

red house william morris  red house william morris

red house william morris  red house william morris

red house william morris  red house william morris

 

On the second floor, there is a drawing room which showcases an original built-in settle, and a fireplace painted with Morris’s motto: “Ars Longa, Vita Brevis” (Life is short, art is forever). On the sides of the settle are murals painted by Pre-Raphaelite artist/his friend, Edward Burne-Jones depicting the 15th century marriage feast of of Sir Degrevan.

Although the structure of the house was not altered, many of the original furnishings and wallpaper were either removed or painted over. Hence, the wallpaper in some of the rooms are simply reproductions of Morris‘ original designs. Since there is a sharp contrast between the murals and the surprisingly ‘modern-looking’ yellow polka dot patterned wallpaper on the ceiling, it made me wonder if the latter was added on during the restoration.

 

red house william morris

red house william morris  red house william morris

red house william morris

red house william morris  red house william morris

 

In 2013, the National Trust discovered a mural hidden behind a large built-in wardrobe on Morris‘s bedroom wall. The near-lifesize figures on the wall are believed to be the joint efforts of Edward Burne-Jones, Dante Gabriel Rossetti, his wife Elizabeth Siddal, Ford Madox Brown and Morris. The figures are from the Bible, which include Rachel, Noah holding a model ark, Adam and Eve, and Jacob with his ladder, and they were painted as if hanging on fabric.

 

red house william morris

The rediscovered mural by William Morris, Jane and other young pre-Raphaelites

 

Sadly, after five years living in their dream house, Morris, his wife and his two young daughters had to sell the house due to financial difficulties. Morris never returned to visit the Red House again, but described the five years as being “probably the happiest and not the least fruitful of his life.”

Over the years, the house changed ownerships quite a few times and was threatened to be demolished until it was designated a Grade I listed building by English Heritage in 1950. Since the National Trust took over the house and garden in 2003, research and efforts were made to restore and conserve the house to its original condition.

 

red house william morris  red house william morris

red house william morris

red house william morris

red house william morris

red house william morris

red house william morris

red house william morris

red house william morris

 

Besides the house, I particularly enjoyed spending time in the garden surrounded by flowers and fruit trees and vegetables. After touring the house and garden, I had a coffee at the cafe’s outdoor seating area and left feeling jolly and energised. Maybe good design and nature are two of the elements that we need in our lives to make us happy; though Morris did not get to spend much time here, thanks to him, we are now able to appreciate his vision and legacy as a revoluntionary designer and entrepreneur.

 

Glasgow: 150 years of Charles Rennie Mackintosh

glasgow

glasgow

 

The first stop of my three-week trip in Scotland this summer was Glasgow. Although the city is not as glamourous as Edinburgh, I tend to have a bias towards Glasgow, partly because of Charles Rennie Mackintosh, and partly because of its friendly residents.

This year marks the 150th anniversary of the birth of Charles Rennie Mackintosh, hecne, there are numerous exhibitions and events celebrating the legacy of Glasgow’s cultural icon. Sadly, Mackintosh’s masterpiece Glasgow School of Art caught fire for the second time in June leaving just a burnt-out shell. I never did get to see the original school because my first visit to Glasgow was 2015, a year after the first devasting fire. That year, I did a tour of the new building and saw the furniture rescued from the old building (see my blog entry here). This year, however, the entire area was sealed off to the public, and I only managed to get a glimpse of the site from afar. Walking outside of the barricade made my heart sink, and like many others, I had a lot of questions in my head. Though judging from the extensive damage, it seems unlikely that the building could be rebuild again.

 

glasgow school of art

glasgow school of art

 

Since I was only in the city for 1 night, my focus was solely on Mackinstosh. I first went to Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum to see the Mackinstosh exhibition featuring more than 250 objects from the Glasgow Museums collection and Mitchell Library archives, alongside key loans from The Hunterian, Glasgow School of Art, the V&A and private lenders.

The exhibition showcased stained glass, ceramics, mosaics, metalwork, furniture, textiles, stencilling, needlework and embroidery, posters, books and architectural drawings. Some of the works have never been on display and the majority – like the wall from Miss Cranston’s Ingram Street Tea Rooms – have not been shown for over 30 years. I wished I had more time to linger at the exhibition, but I was also grateful that I got to see this extensive exhibition on the works of a genius. Since no photography was allowed, I bought the exhibition catalogue instead.

 

kelvingrove

kelvingrove

kelvingrove

kelvingrove  kelvingrove

 

The following morning, I went to the newly restored Mackintosh at The Willow to have breakfast. Originally named the Willow Tea Rooms, the premise is the only surviving tea room designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh. The tea room was part of a long working relationship with local tea entrepreneur Miss Kate Cranston. Between 1896 and 1917 he designed and re-styled interiors in all four of her Glasgow tearooms, in collaboration with his wife Margaret Macdonald. Opened in 1903 at 217 Sauchiehall Street, the Art Nouveau tea room gained immense popularity and became famous for its afternoon teas, but it was sold in 1917 after the death of Miss Kate Cranston’s husband.

Over the years and through various changes of ownerships, the building had deteriorated until it was purchased in 2014 by The Willow Tea Rooms Trust in order to prevent the forced sale of the building, closure of the Tea Rooms and loss of its contents to collectors. When I visited the premise in 2015, it was in a rather somber state, so I was eager to see the newly restored building after four years of restoration which costed t £10 million. The project was a collaboration between Willow Tea Rooms Trust, Doig & Smith, Simpson & Brown and Clark Contracts . The Tea Rooms are also operated as a social enterprise with the objectives of creating training, learning, employment and other opportunities and support for young people and communities.

 

Mackintosh at the Willow   Mackintosh at the Willow

Mackintosh at the Willow

Mackintosh at the Willow

Mackintosh at the Willow

 

Even as I walked past the three story building the day before, I was thrilled to see the beautiful facade featuring the restored black leaded glass frames and decorative ornaments. Since Charles Rennie Mackintosh was a key figure in the Scottish Arts and Crafts movement, this building epitomised the essence of the ‘The Glasgow Style’, which was highly influenced by Japanese design.

 

Mackintosh at the Willow

Mackintosh at the Willow

Mackintosh at the Willow

Mackintosh at the Willow   Mackintosh at the Willow

 

To be honest, I wasn’t so concerned about the food, as it wasn’t the purpose of my visit. I was simply happy to be sitting in a Mackintosh-designed tea room that showcases his furniture, sculpted plasterwork wall panels, railings and fixtures. The attention to detail is immaculate and I salute the team behind the project for their efforts in bringing Mackinstosh‘s designs back to its full glory.

During my visit, the tea room was at a phased opening stage, so tours of the building was not yet available and not all areas of the building were opened to the public. Hence I shall have to join a tour of the building when I return to Glasgow next time.

 

Mackintosh at the Willow

Mackintosh at the Willow

Mackintosh at the Willow

Mackintosh at the Willow   Mackintosh at the Willow

 

After breakfast, I walked over to the Glasgow Art Club, a lesser-known building with designs by Mackintosh at the age of 25 when he was employed as a draughtsman by architects Honeyman & Keppie. Mackintosh was responsible for the design of many of the internal features of the Club including the frieze in the Gallery.

Opened in 1893 at Bath Street, The Glasgow Art Club was founded in 1867 by William Dennistoun, a young amateur artist who had been forced by ill health to leave the city. It started as a meeting place for amateur painters to discuss their works, but soon membership grew with more professional artists joining, resulting in two town houses being bought to accommodate all the members.

From the outside, there is nothing special about the building, and even inside, the club does not look different from most Victorian gentlemen’s clubs.

 

Glasgow Art Club  Glasgow Art Club

Glasgow Art Club

Glasgow Art Club

Glasgow Art Club

Glasgow Art Club  Glasgow Art Club

 

Yet the secret lies at the back of the ground floor. The bright and spacious gallery is vastly different from the rooms at the front, and you can certainly apprecaite the magic touch of Mackintosh here. The gallery showcases Mackintosh’s earliest work: frieze, decorative panels, feature fireplaces abd brass finger plates. Painted in 1893, the frieze’s stenciled artwork was Mackintosh’s first major public work, but due to water damage it was eventually plastered and painted over. Recently, experts in the work of Mackintosh, collaborated with a notable Scottish artist and a firm specialising in restoration work recreated the frieze and thus the public can now view this beautiful work at the club. The gallery walls also display original artwork by members of the Club which are part of an ever changing programme of exhibitions.

Although the club is a private one, it does offer regular tours that are bookable by appointment. Since I couldn’t join the tour, I walked in and asked if I could view the gallery, and the receptionist kindly let me in. This is definitely a hidden gem in the city, and I am sure many Mackintosh enthusiasts would appreciate the restoration works being done here.

Ironically, Mackintosh‘s innovative styles were not greatly appreciated during his lifetime, yet 150 years after his birth, his name is drawing millions of visitors from around the world to Glasgow. All I can say is that: it is better late than never.

 

Glasgow Art Club

Glasgow Art Club

Glasgow Art Club

Glasgow Art Club

Glasgow Art Club

Glasgow Art Club

 

 

Open house 17: Hampstead garden suburb

free church central square

Free church and Central square

 

I have long wanted to explore the Hampstead Garden Suburb, and so I was quite excited when I saw a guided walk of the area listed on Open House London. With the housing crisis in London worsening, it is time to review what went wrong and examine ideas and schemes from the past to see what could be learned from them.

Described by American historian, sociologist and philosopher, Lewis Mumford, as ‘a masterpiece and an artistic triumph’, Hampstead Garden Suburb was founded in 1907 by the social reformer, Dame Henrietta Barnett. It was an ambitious and ground-breaking social experiment and town planning for that period.

After setting up Hampstead Garden Suburb Trust Ltd, the Trust bought 243 acres of land near the Hampstead Heath Extension from Eton College, hoping to transform it into a beautiful, healthy, and friendly neighbourhood that accommodated all classes of the society. The planning was created by Raymond Unwin and Richard Barry Parker (both were involved with the Arts and Crafts movement), emphasising on nature, community and harmony.

Despite the project’s initial utopian and noble intention, the aim to create a neighbourhood for all classes somehow failed; and now, the area with over 5000 properties is one of London’s most affluent areas.

 

Free church

Free church

The Grade I listed Free church was design by Sir Edwin Lutyens in 1911

 

I guess there were many curious Londoners like me who wanted to explore the area, because the walks were oversubscribed, but our guide (a resident of the suburb) was not too bothered by this. We started off at the open and tranquil Central square, where the two Grade I listed churches are located: St Jude’s church and Free church.

 

St Jude's church

St Jude's church

St Jude's church

St Jude's church  Walter Starmer at St Jude's

Walter Starmer at St Jude's

The Grade I listed St Jude’s was also designed by Edwin Lutyens. Building began in 1909 and did not complete until 1935. The murals and paintings were done by Walter Starmer

 

Opposite the Free church is the former house of Dame Henrietta Barnett, and there is a memorial nearby (see below) which is also Grade II listed. On one side of square stands another grand building designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens. The Henrietta Barnett School is a voluntary-aided state grammar school for girls founded in 1911 – during a time when educational opportunities for women were severely limited. As part of her master plan, Dame Henrietta Barnett built the School on the principle that education should be open to girls from different backgrounds to study and learn together and from each other, regardless of social, economic, cultural, ethnic or religious background. Now the school is considered to be one of the best schools in the country.

 

The Henrietta Barnett School

dsc_0203-min  img_5461

dsc_0206-min  dsc_0241-min

dsc_0221-min

Top: The Grade II listed Henrietta Barnett School; 2nd row left: Henrietta Barnett memorial

 

After the introduction, we spent the next two hours walking around the quiet and leafy neighbourhood, passing by many interesting houses built in the arts & crafts style.

 

Hampstead Garden Suburb

Hampstead Garden Suburb

Hampstead Garden Suburb

Hampstead Garden Suburb

Hampstead Garden Suburb

Hampstead Garden Suburb

dsc_0230-min

 

One fascinating aspect of the suburb is its hedges and trees. Henrietta Barnett insisted on using hedges to mark boundaries, so they play an important role in the area. Every house also had two fruit trees planted in the garden (what a wonderful idea!). Consent is required by residents for significant changes to gardens, erection of garden sheds, removal of hedges and felling or pruning of trees.

We also visited two hidden community allotments in between the houses; but more surprisingly, two ancient woodlands – Big wood and Little wood – that have existed for over 1000 years.

 

Hampstead Garden Suburb

dsc_0225-min

dsc_0228-min

Hampstead Garden Suburb  Hampstead Garden Suburb

dsc_0238-min

 

The suburb’s rurual countryside atmosphere, big houses, and proximity to Hampstead heath have turned it into a popular residential area for the wealthy. It is a far cry from Henrietta Barnett‘s utopian ideal, which is a shame. However, we can still appreciate her paradigm and determination, and how it may help us to re-evaluate the housing problems that we are facing today.

 

Hampstead Heath extension

Hampstead Heath extension

Hampstead Heath extension

Hampstead Heath extension

 

After the walking tour, we had just enough time to visit the nearby Grade II listed Waterlow Court, which was designed by the renowned A British Arts & crafts architect Mackay Hugh Baillie Scott in 1904 and completed in 1909. The development was a project of Sir Sydney Waterlow‘s Improved Industrial Dwellings Company, and was initiated at the request of Henrietta Barnett. The fifty flats (vary in size) were designed for single working women who would not be able to keep servants, but would benefit from some degree of co-operative living. The co-living space included a communal dining area, a communal kitchen, a small common room, and servants’ (including a housekeeper’s and porters’) quarters. Before this visit, I have never heard of this place before, but I find the concept very intriguing and I think it could still work in this day and age.

 

waterlow court

waterlow court

waterlow court

waterlow court

 

As soon as I walked through the lychgate, I was immediately impressed by dark timber-framed roof and the arts and crafts style lighting. The next thing I noticed were the round arches that are featured throughout the compound, and they create a ‘cloister’ effect which resemble a convent or monastery or Cathedral. The covered walkway leads to the quadrangular building with a large courtyard in the middle.

 

waterlow court

waterlow court

waterlow court

 

Our guide first gave us a tour of the back garden, which features not only some cool hedges, old trees and interesting plants, it also houses an air raid bunker.

 

waterlow court garden

waterlow court garden

waterlow court garden

waterlow court garden  waterlow court bunker

The garden of Waterlow Court and the entrance to an air raid bunker

 

Nowadays, the flats are no longer limited to females only, but the community spirit still thrives. We spoke to a few volunteers/residents on the day and they all seem to enjoy the tranquil setting and the friendly co-living atmosphere. However, most of the complaints were related to the tiny kitchens (probably because the working women didn’t cook much back then) and either tiny or oversized bathrooms.

 

waterlow court   waterlow court

waterlow court

waterlow court

waterlow court   waterlow court

The corridor and a flat at the Waterlow Court

 

Accommodation is arranged in three to five room flats, designed with plank doors, mullioned windows and some open fireplaces. The original fittings, door and window furniture were made by J Pyghtle White of Bedford for Ambrose Heal of London. A resident kindly opened up and showed us her flat, and despite its small size, it is functional, cosy with original features are rare to find in London these days.

 

Corringham Road HAMPSTEAD GARDEN SUBURBS

Corringham Road HAMPSTEAD GARDEN SUBURBS

Corringham Road

 

I believe that the example of Hampstead garden suburb and Waterlow Court can provide us with some indications on how to strike a balance between nature, architecture and community. Aside from this balance, the housing needs to be (really) affordable… sadly, I can’t see this happening in the near future. Perhaps we need another visionaire like Henrietta Barnett to instigate and implement changes, changes that we urgently need.