Shopping in Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai has many interesting arts and crafts shops; on Charoenrat Road, there is Colour Factory, a shop that sells painted art elephants from the Elephant Parade, an organization that supports Asian elephant conservation. Over the last few years, their open air art exhibitions which took place in different cities ( including London in 2010) has created worldwide attention and awareness. Many well-known artists and designers have taken part in this project, you can support the project by purchasing the art elephants, which I think are great gift ideas for friends and families.

On this road, there is also a ceramics outlet called Earth and Fire, where you can buy locally made ceramics at bargain prices. Further down, there is Circle source paper, which sells handmade paper and paper products.

 

 

Not far from the Wat Phra Singh, there is another handmade paper shop called HQ paper maker. There is a large collection of mulberry paper and paper products, but what is interesting is that they host one-day paper making workshops outside of the city centre, where participants can learn and understand the process of paper making from the beginning to the final stage. I hope that I will be able to try it when I am in town next time!

 

On Prapokklao Rd, I stopped by at Herbs basics, a local shop that sells natural and herbal skin products. Compare to many natural skincare brands or spa lines in Bangkok, the products here are much cheaper, yet the ingredients are similar, so I took the opportunity and stocked up products for myself and friends.

On the same road, I walked into a cute-looking shop and gallery called Things called art, that sell art work and merchandise by two artists, Supachet Bhumakarn and Siriwan Lohacheewa. I was particularly intrigued by Supachet‘s elephant art work and started chatting to Siriwan, who was in the shop at the time of my visit. No, I didn’t purchase Supachet‘s art work but I did buy a few of his lovely greeting cards because they are just too cute…

Like I mentioned before, there are many cool shops including many fashion shops around Nimmanhaemin Soi. My favourite one is Kit-bit-s, a local fashion brand set up by three sisters. They use cute and colourful fabrics to create simple but youthful pieces that remind me of the French label, Paul & Joe sister at very reasonable prices!

 

Personally, I think shopping in Chiang Mai is more interesting and cheaper than Bangkok, perhaps there are less recognisable brands, but I love the locally made products which are individual and not trend-driven. So if you visit Chiang Mai, do remember to spare a bit of time and support these local designers, artists and businesses!

 

Graffiti in Chiang Mai

I have a strong interest in graffiti, but I didn’t expect to see such ‘high quality’ graffiti artwork in the city centre of Chiang Mai. I was especially amazed when I stumbled upon several walls covered with graffiti art outside a car park next to a large shopping mall. I am sure there are many hidden gems in the city, here are just some that I accidentally ‘discovered’…

 

 

 

Chiang Mai’s museums & art galleries

Museum of the past: Wat Ket Karam

 

Chiang Mai is known for its art and culture, it’s no surprise to find cool art galleries here, but I was esp. delighted to find two rather quaint museums that are off the beaten track. Apart from the Chiang Mai city arts & cultural centre, I never saw other visitors during my visits ( and hardly any staff for that matter), so overall it was a very unique experience:

 

Chiang Mai city arts & cultural centre – Established in 1997, this centre is located in a beautiful historical building constructed in 1924. It traces the history of Chiang Mai back to the ancient Lanna Kingdom; although its layout and concept is similar to Museum of Siam in Bangkok, it is not as detailed and well thought out. However, it is still worth a visit if you are interested in the history of Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai Philatelic Museum – located not far from the flower market, the 100-year old colonial building used to be a post office before being turned into a museum in 1990. I am not sure if many tourists would visit this museum, but it is rather quirky. I love how they have preserved the old communication tools as well as the furniture, walking around the museum made me feel like I was caught in a time warp. I also bought some beautiful sets of stamps ( which I will blog about in another entry), which are great as souvenirs for friends!

 

 

Wat Ket Karam Museum (also known as Uncle Jack’s Museum) – I love this museum! I stumbled upon it while I was walking along Charoenrat Road. Located in the compound of the 15th century Wat Ket Karam temple, I was a bit hesitant before stepping in but once inside, I felt like I was transported to another era, it was just amazing…

Founded in 2001 by Jarin Bain or Uncle Jack ( who is over 90 years old now), this free museum only came about because its building ( a 100 year-old ex residence of the monks) was in danger of being demolished by the senior monks of the temple. Hence, Uncle Jack decided to self-finance and conserve the building as well as its contents and turned it into a community museum. With donations from the Wat Ket community and his antique dealer friend, Uncle Jack single-handedly created a mesmerising heritage treasure trove that is more personal and interesting than the official cultural centre!

The museum has a large collection of ancient Thai scripts and literature, artefacts, collectibles and a room full of old black and white photos of Chiang Mai. Wandering around the museum (alone), I felt like I was in an antique collector’s house rather than a ‘proper’ museum. My only wish is that someone will  take over Uncle Jack‘s job when he is no longer around, someone who will dedicate as much time and care to this unique place…

 

 

Lanna Architecture Center  – this beautiful building in the city centre is now used as a research and exhibition center for Lanna architecture. The exhibits were not as interesting as the building itself, but it was still quite pleasant to wander around if you happen to be in the area.

 

 

On Charoenrat Road, there are many interesting art galleries, cafes and handicrafts shops. One of them is Comedara Art Gallery & restaurant, which is housed in a beautiful colonial building and exhibits artwork by local artists.

 

 

The ‘hippest’ area in Chiang Mai is Nimmanhaemin soi, where most cool shops, cafes and art galleries are located. I walked by Gallery SeeScape and was attracted by its laid back and accessible vibe. If only all galleries are as unpretentious as this…

 

 

2 days in Chiang Mai

My Thai friends have been urging me to visit Chiang Mai for a long time as they know that I have an interest in arts and crafts. I am not sure why it has taken me so long to make this trip, but after spending only 2 nights here, I realised that I would like return again and spend more time here. My impression of the city is that it is artistic, friendly, quirky, eco-conscious and laid back, rather different from Bangkok.

Stay – For my entire trip in Thailand, I have chosen to stay at small B & Bs instead of hotels, which I think was the right decision because not only did I receive more authentic and personal service but I also met many interesting and like-minded people. In Chiang Mai, I chose to stay at Baan BooLoo, a friendly and eco-consious B & B within the old city wall.

As eco tourism becomes more popular, many hotels now claim themselves to be eco-friendly, but how many of them are truly authentic? What I like about this family-owned B & B is its effort to be as sustainable as possible. The staff work as a team to create an unique oasis in the middle of the city where travelers can enjoy authentic Thai hospitality and lifestyle. While I was there, I found out that not only the guests all happened to be from London, but one of the family member/owner also lives in London, which was an interesting coincidence!

Map – If you need a guidebook/ map in Chiang Mai, then I highly recommend Nancy Chandler‘s Map of Chiang Mai (there is also one on Bangkok). I bought this in Bangkok for 250 baht, a bit pricey for Thai standard but it is really worth it. Nancy Chandler is an American artist who has spent decades living in Thailand; her maps are fun, informative and beautifully illustrated. I only wish that every city would have a map like this!

Transport – I love taking public transport when I am in different cities ( I even managed to do it in Los Angeles); in Chiang Mai, songthaews ( a shared taxi) is a convenient and cheap way to travel around the city. Most of the time, I was the only passenger, so it was fun to sightsee from the back of the truck for around 20-30 baht per trip…

Temples – There are many amazing temples within the old city walls, but the recently-restored Wat chedi (Jedee) Luang is probably the most impressive. Originally constructed in 1401, the massive pagonda was destroyed in an earthquake in 1545. Apart from the huge chedi ruin, there are also other smaller halls, including one which houses a 30-foot-long reclining Buddha.

 

Markets – I love visiting food markets when I travel, so instead of going to the night bazaar, I went to Warowat and flower markets by the river. I love the vibe, smell, colours and variety of food markets, they are also great places for (local) people-watching. I was particular thrilled when I saw a coffee stand at one of the entrances, shame that he doesn’t sell takeaway coffee beans… The area around the market is also very busy with stalls selling food, fruits ( even strawberries), flowers, fabrics, gadgets and handicrafts etc, it is a very interesting area and not at all touristy.

 

 

To be continued…