Eat, drink & shop in Shanghai French Concession

The former French Concession in Shanghai is a large and historical where you will find beautiful colonial architecture, Western-style eateries, cafes and bars as well as glossy shopping malls and independent shops selling fashion, gifts, furniture, design and home accessories.

This is not a comprehensive guide, it is only a rough guide to some of the shops in the area:

 

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2nd row: Retro Revo; 3nd row left: Casa Casa; 3rd row middle & right: Brut Cake; Bottom: Piling Palang

 

Anfui Lu:

Piling Palang (no.183) – Founded in 2009 by Chinese designer, Deng Bingbing, the colourful objects here are inspired by ancient Chinese symbolic motifs, patterns and shapes. Most of products are skillfully crafted by local craftsmen using ceramic, cloisonné or lacquer, and are infused with contemporary elements to create decorative or functional pieces.

Casa Casa (no. 201) – A furniture store featuring a selection of modern and classic furniture and home accessories from top international designer brands.

Brut Cake (no.232) Founded by Taiwanese designer, Nicole Teng, most of the home accessories here are handmade from recycled materials. There are also reclaimed/re-upholstered furniture and ceramics with a rustic feel. The products and even the shop’s interior feel very Japanese as I could imagine walking into a shop like this in Tokyo’s Yanaka district… hence, to find a shop like this in the middle of Shanghai was a pleasant surprise!

Retro Revo (no.248) is a British company specialises in handmade industrial European and American vintage designs including furniture, lighting, carpets and accessories. Inspired from the Industrial Revolution era, all their products are newly produced by craftsmen outside of China, hence, most of them come with hefty price tags.

 

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Top: Baker & Spice cafe; 2nd row left: Sunflour bakery & cafe; 2nd row right: La Mer cafe; Bottom row left: Vinyl Ganesh; Bottom row middle: Wagas

 

There are also several bakeries/ cafe on this road including Baker & Spice (no.195) and Sunflour Bakery & cafe (no.322). Located not far away is Wagas (7 Dong Hu Rd), a popular cafe chain which also owns Baker & Spice. To be honest, I find these Western bakeries and cafes in Shanghai pretty pricey while the food is just mediocre. I couldn’t help thinking that in the nearby cities like Hong Kong or Taipei, I could get better quality food at much cheaper prices.

Vinyl Ganesh (No 5, 438 Shanxi Nan Lu, near Fuxing Zhong Lu) is another relaxing and comfortable cafe that has a Taiwanese vibe and lots of books available for browsing and reading. The service was pleasant and the coffee was not bad but priced between 40-60 RMB, the coffees are pricier than similar cafes in London, Hong Kong and even Tokyo! I am not sure how much locals earn in Shanghai, but hanging out in cafes seem like an extravagant activities here!

 

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Top left, middle & 2nd row left: Shanghai Lan-Lan Chinese handprinted blue nankeen; Bottom left: Song Fang Maison de the; bottom middle: Madame Mao’s Dowry

 

On Fumin Lu, there is a retro gift shop, Madame Mao’s Dowry (no.207) that sells propaganda posters, memorabilia and homeware from the Mao period, along with contemporary fashion and jewellery from local and international designers.

In the evening, my friend took me to Dr Wine (no.177), a 2-storey chic French wine bar for drinks and snacks one evening. The place was packed with expats, and although the wine and cheese was good, I found the noise level and smoke (smoking is not banned in Shanghai) quite unbearable, hence we did not stay long there.

Along Julu Lu, there are many independent fashion shops, including a few interesting menswear shops. There is an interesting Russian/literature-theme cafe on this road called La Mer (no.677), own and run by a friendly Chinese lady who spent 20 years living in Moscow. Although the ambience is spacious and relaxing, I found the service slow and patchy. But thanks to the hospitable owner, I was able to explore the beautiful colonial building (now home of the Literature club, which I will write about on the next blog entry) behind the cafe.

Other interesting shops in the area include:

Shanghai Lan-Lan Chinese handprinted blue nankeen (no.24 Lane, 637 Chang Le Road) is well hidden in a small lane off the quiet Changle Road. There is a pleasant garden outside of the 2-storey old villa, and once inside, you will find a big showroom full of handprinted blue nankeen products. The traditional dying technique uses a starch-resist method, indigo dye and cotton fabrics to produce primitive but artistic textiles that can be turned into clothing, fashion accessories, soft home furnishings as well as wall hangings. The sales woman was not very friendly initially, it was only when I showed interest in purchasing and asked her for the prices (most of the prices are not displayed for some reason) that she became friendlier! The products here are not cheap but they are unique and of high quality, hence, I ended up buying a few items for myself and as gifts. Next to the shop’s showroom is Shanghai’s Hand-printed Blue Batik Museum founded by an old Japanese woman, Kubo Masa, and it records the revival of this traditional Chinese craftsmanship.

 

Spin (360 Kangding Rd, near Shaanxi Bei Lu) Founded in 2004 by art director Gary Wang, Spin is an art gallery featuring beautiful, minimalist and reasonably-priced pottery, designed and made in-house.

 

Triple Major (25 Shaoxing Lu) is a 4-storey conceptual fashion/lifestyle store that sells quirky fashion and accessories by independent designers/labels such as  Daniel Palillo, Lazy Oaf, Henrik Vibskov, and emerging local talents. The shop also sell Japanese ceramics, magazines and books published by independent publishers. The founder, Ritchie Chan, is a Hong Kong native who used to study in L.A. and this shop in Shanghai is his second outlet after his first in Beijing and an online outlet.

 

Song Fang Maison de Thé (227 Yongjia Lu) is a 2-storey tea house set up by a Parisian Florence Samson 10 years ago. It is hard to miss the bold blue graphic banner from the exterior, and once inside, you will find this cool graphics being used as tea containers and as gift packaging. As much as I like the graphics, I find the gifts sets quite pricey, but if you want to bring back souvenir to impress family and friends, then this place has some good options. The tea house is located on the first floor.

 

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Top left: Cold noodles at Noodle Bull; Top right: steamed fish head with chillies at Guyi; 2nd row left: steam bun; 2nd row middle: Xinjiang style hash brown at Xibo; 2nd row right, Main & bottom right: a noodle bar; Bottom left: the famous Shanghainese xiaolongbao

 

While walking around the French Concession, I was hoping to find some authentic and ‘hygienic-looking’ street stalls selling local fares, but this proved to be a very difficult task. It seems easier to find croissants than dumplings in this area! Finally one morning, I stumbled upon a few food shops near the corner of Xiangyang Lu & Changle Lu (with many locals queuing outside) selling a variety of steamed buns, dumplings, scallion/sesame pancakes and sheng jian bao (fried buns/dumplings with pork and broth inside) etc. I had a sesame pancake and a vegetable bun, both were tasty and a lot cheaper than the bakeries/cafes down the road.

At lunch time, I found a small noodle bar (not sure of its English name) on Yanqing Road, the place has a rustic/industrial feel to it and it serves handmade noodles (served with kimchi) at reasonable prices.

The Art deco Ferguson Lane (376 Wukang Lu, near Tai’an Lu) is the home to several coffee shops, wine bars, beauty shops, fashion boutiques, art gallery, patisserie and restaurants.. I met my friends at the spacious Azul Tapas Lounge, a restaurant owned by the popular Peruvian restaurateur/chef, Eduardo Vargas. The dishes on the menu has Spanish, South American, and Mediterranean influences, but I did not detect the Spanish influences in the dishes we ordered nor did I think they were in tapas sizes either! However, the quality of food and wine was very good, and the service was fairly efficient, so overall we had an enjoyable meal there.

Guyi (87 Fumin Lu) is an institution in Shanghai serving Hunan dishes (often spicy) and it is very popular among locals and expats. We had to queue for 10 minutes even though it was almost 9pm when we arrived. However, the food was worth the wait, and the steamed fish head with chilies (see above) is a must (even for the squeamish).

If you are looking for something unique, then Xibo (3F, 85 Changshu Lu) is a good choice as it serves Uyghur cuisine from the Xinjiang region of China. The contemporary setting and view attract many expats, and the food is interesting and tasty. The restaurant also donates 25% of its profits to support charitable organisations in western China.

 

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Shops in Tianzifang

 

Similar to Xintiandi (which I found very commercial during my last visit, hence I skipped it this time), Tianzifang (off Taikang Road) has been transformed into a popular tourist destination from the regeneration of a former residential district. The neighborhood was originally built in the 1930s as a Shikumen ( a traditional 2/3-storey Shanghainese building) residential district. It was saved from demolition in 2006 thanks to the help of local residents and business owners.

Now the maze-like area has more than 200 small businesses from shops to cafes, bars, restaurants and art galleries etc. Although this area is very touristy and busy, it is quite interesting to spend a few hours getting lost here. There are many interesting shops selling fashion, arts and crafts, stationery and vintage/retro objects.

 

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Main & bottom left: Taste shop space; 2nd row left: traditional Chinese dolls at Old Shanghai; 2nd row right: Alan Chan creations; Bottom middle: Sky music box

 

The highlights of the area are as follows:

Sky Music Box (35 Tianzifang, Lane 248 Taikang Lu, near Sinan Lu) is a small shop/museum (accessible via some steep & narrow staircase) that sells and exhibits a wide range of handcrafted (some slightly kitsch) music boxes. It is a very unique place!

Old Shanghai (I am not sure of the English name of this shop… but it’s at Room 112, no.3, 200 Taikang Lu) – I wanted to buy every item in this shop! I love the 94 year old Shanghainese illustrator/ comic artist, He Youzhi‘s illustrations of old Shanghai. Not only you will find his comic books, post card sets but there are different merchandise that feature his wonderful illustrations. On the first floor, there are also traditional Chinese dolls on display/ for sale.

Taste shop space (Room 105, Building: 3rd, Lane 210, Taikang Rd) – Founded by photographer Viko Wu and her Japanese fashion designer husband, Yutaka  last year. Taste shop is a lifestyle shop that sells homeware, furniture, antiques, lighting and fashion accessories. The shop also stock many handcrafted designs including Futagami and Eclectic by Tom Dixon.

 

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Top right, bottom left & middle: Cafe Dan; Bottom right: interesting Korean snack

 

Cafe Dan (no.41, Lane 248 Taikang Lu) – a well-known cafe in Tianzifang that is owned and run by a Japanese, Taka, who is quite obsessed with coffee. I love the quiet/rustic style and relaxing atmosphere, but again, there is a price to pay for this… around £10-12 for a cup of coffee and cafe, which I find extraordinary expensive for a rustic-looking cafe!

 

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The exterior and interior of Liuli China Museum; 3rd row left: cafe Xiao San Tang; 3rd row right: The shop also sells the Shuriken magnets from Taiwan; Bottom right: MoCA Shop at People’s park

 

Liuli China Museum (25 Taikang Road) is a huge 4-storey glass building located right opposite Tianzifang. Founded in 2006 by by renowned glass artist and sculptor Loretta Hui-shan Yang and her husband Zhang Yi, the building not only houses a museum dedicated to glassware from China (all eras) and the rest the world, but there is also a Xiao San Tang and a shop that sells glassware, design and craft objects and books etc.

Another museum shop that is worth checking out is the MoCa shop at the entrance of People’s Park, 231 Nanjing West Road. I tried to get into The Museum of Contemporary Art Shanghai (MOCA) on Saturday (bad idea!) but gave up immediately when I saw a queue outside in the rain. However, I quite enjoyed browsing in their small shop by the park entrance where you can find design objects created by local designers and design/museum exhibition-related books.

 

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10 Corso Como at Wheelock Square; 3rd row middle, right and bottom right: Marcel Wanders’ exhibition at the gallery; Bottom left: the exterior of nearby shopping mall

 

Surrounding the famous Jian’an Temple on the West Nanjing Road are highrises and shopping malls (what contradictions!), and one of new design destinations in the area is 10 Corso Como (North Annex, Wheelock Square 1717 Nanjing Xi Lu, near Huashan Lu, Jing’an) which opened at the end of last year. I am sure most people who are interested in fashion/design would not have missed the institution, 10 Corso Como when visiting Milan. Opened in 1990 by former fashion editor Carla Sozzani, this gallery/lifestyle & fashion concept store was the forefront of its kind, years before Colette in Paris and Dover Street market in London. I have previously visited their former shop in Tokyo (in collaboration with Comme des Garçons) and their original branch in Seoul, but this new shop in Shanghai is bigger (2,500sqm) than I expected. The 4-storey mecca (notice that 4th floor on the map above has been renamed as ‘5th’ due to Chinese superstition!) designed by Kris Ruhs not only sells fashion, jewellery, beauty products, art and design objects, books but there are also patisserie, café, restaurant and gallery.

Honestly, I was quite disappointed with this store because it is too glossy and ‘perfect’, obviously it is targeting the wealthy and local hipsters/creatives with growing spending power, yet it is formulaic without surprises… This is not what I expect from a successful brand that has changed the way we shop today.

 

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Top left: Prada shop on Nan Jing Xi Lu; the rest: shops at the basement of Reel Mall

 

In the nearby Reel Mall (1601 Nanjing West Rd, Jing’an), it is home to many international luxury fashion brands, but the more interesting (in my opinion) shops are hidden in its basement near the popular food court. I would not have found this place if it wasn’t for the host of my apt because it is quite hidden. But there are many small independent shops selling fashion, jewellery and design objects made by local designers, and one of them is wtf* bikes, a local bicycle brand that sells very cool-looking bike frames and rims.

 

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Shanghai Propanganda poster art centre

 

Aside from shopping, dining and drinking in the former French Concession, there are also many galleries and museums and one of my favourite in the area is The Shanghai Propangda poster art center (Rm BOC, Basement, Block B, No.868 Huashan Road) hidden inside a residential block. (Tip: ask the security guard at the front entrance and he will give you a card with a small map that will direct you to the entrance). This gallery is really one of a kind and you will need at least an hour to go through the vast collection even though the gallery itself is not very big. These propaganda posters are very rare now because most of them were destroyed due to political changes over the years. The posters are important documentations that record the history of China in 20th century, and not surprisingly Mao is the key figure. Aside from posters and memorabilia, there are also school text books and magazines, but most surprisingly, some of the magazine covers (and some posters) reveal a very open-minded/ Westernised China where female nudity was acceptable… how fascinating! Next to the gallery is a small shop where you can find reproductions of the posters, books and souvenir.

 

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Shanghai museum of arts & crafts

 

Located inside a beautiful French Renaissance mansion, the Shanghai museum of arts & crafts (79 Fenyang Rd, near Taiyuan Rd) could be so much better… The museum showcases exquisite jade, wood, ivory, bamboo carvings, paper-cutting art work, lacquer ware, porcelain, embroidery, textiles and traditional clay dolls etc. There are also artists at work where visitors can see the production processes, yet when I was there, the artists/craftsmen were not doing much (one was even napping) and the display lacked information, the museum certainly needs a better curator… Even the display in the shop’s showroom lacks aesthetic appeal, it reminds me some touristy souvenir shops except for the high prices.

 

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Kunst. Licht Photo Art Gallery 

 

I stumbled upon Kunst. Licht Photo Art Gallery (210, North Ulumuqi Road, Jing’an) and I immediately felt very relaxed as I stepped into this 2-room and rather understated gallery dedicated to photography, which features established and emerging artists from China and abroad. The building itself is also quite interesting and has some art deco architectural features that compliment the colourful and bold photographs on the white walls.

 

London winter 2013/14 art & design exhibitions

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Main and bottom left: The new Serpentine Sackler Gallery designed by Zaha Hadid Architects opened in Sept 2013; Bottom right: Paul Klee at Tate Modern

 

I intended to publish this a while ago, but I have been traveling and it took longer than I expected to complete. It is a recap of the art and design exhibitions that took place or are still taking place in London this winter and spring. Here are 5 of my favourites:

 

Paul Klee – Making visible at Tate Modern (until 9th March) I used to love Klee‘s work when I was doing A-level art, mostly because of his use of colours. And this retrospective reaffirmed me that the artist was a true master of colour. This exhibition is huge ( with 17 rooms) and will take about 2 hours, but it is really worth the time as we see how the artist developed his ideas, techniques and style. Aside of his masterful use of colour, it was his inventiveness, playfulness, and humanity that made him one of the greatest Modernist artists.

 

Shunga: sex and humour in Japanese art 1600-1900 at the British Museum (ended) It is hard to imagine that the repressed Japanese society was once so open about sex and pleasure. This exhibition explored the boundary between art and pornography, and although many Shunga paintings and prints are very explicit, they are also highly artistic, humourous and sometimes rather ridiculous. I love the woodblocked prints and the beautiful detailed textiles/ fashion worn by the people in the paintings. I did not find the work seedy at all, instead I found the exhibition entertaining and absolutely mesmerising.

 

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‘Travelling to the Wonderland’ installation, by Xu Bing at the Victoria and Albert Museum

 

Masterpieces of Chinese Painting 700 – 1900 at the V & A Museum (ended) I really wished that I had more time at this outstanding exhibition which showcased  masterpieces from China spanning over 1200 years. I have been to exhibitions on ancient Chinese paintings and art museums in China as well as Taiwan, but this had to be one of the best that I have ever visited. The curation was top-notch and it offered insight into China’s history, culture, social movements, economy, religions and artistic styles. At the exhibition, we could see how the Chinese art and culture influenced the Japanese and Koreans, and perhaps we need to re-evalute the word, ‘copy’.

A miniature landscape was also installed by Chinese artist, Xu Bing in the John Madejski Garden. Inspired by a classic Chinese fable, The Peach Blossom Spring, Xu collected authentic stones from different places in China and made them into a layered mountainscape, accompanied by light effects and sounds of birds and insects.

 

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Top left: ‘Istanbul Contrast’ by Dice Kayek; Top right: Mounir Fatmi’s video installation; Bottom left: Nasser Al Salem; Bottom middle: Pascal Zoghbi; Bottom right: Laurent Mareschal’s ‘Beiti’

 

The Jameel Prize 3 at the V & A Museum (until 21st April) The Jameel Prize is an international award for contemporary art and design inspired by Islamic tradition. The exhibition showcases some extraordinary work by talented artists and designers working today. Laurent Mareschal‘s ‘Beiti’ (spice tiles) is quite mind-blowing, and equally impressive is furniture and product designer, Nada Debs‘s ‘Concrete Carpet’ that fuses Middle Eastern craftsmanship with Japanese minimalism. Arabic calligraphy is creatively used in a lot of the work, including ‘Modern Times: A History of the Machine’, a video installation by Mounir Fatmi, and graphical work by calligrapher, Nasser al-Salem and type designer, Pascal Zoghbi. The winner was awarded to the Turkish fashion label Dice Kayek established by sisters Ece and Ayşe Ege for their ‘Istanbul Contrast’, a collection of garments that evoke Istanbul’s architectural and artistic heritage.

 

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Top left: Only in England: Photographys by Tony Ray-Jones and Martin Parr at the Science Museum; Top middle and main: Andy Warhol at the Photographer’s gallery; Top right: Derek Jarman: Pandemonium at King’s College London.

 

Only in England: Photographys by Tony Ray-Jones and Martin Parr at the Science Museum (until 16th March) I have not been to the Science Museum for a few years, and was surprised to learn that this documentary photography exhibition is being held here. It turns out that Media Space is the museum’s new gallery, which aims to explore photography, art and science.

This exhibition is wonderful… it is nostalgic, humourous, humane, sentimental, quirky and ultimately, it is a celebration of Britishness. The black and white photographs capture England during the 1960s and 70s, and two photographers’ work complement each other extremely well. It was a shame that Ray-Jones only lived until 30, but Parr, who was very much influenced and inspired by him, not only ‘succeeded’ him but also became a pioneer in his own right. This exhibition is not to be missed.

 

Surprises:

Derek Jarman: Pandemonium at King’s College London (until 9th March) – I was surprised when I found out about a new exhibition on Derek Jarman, as I haven’t heard his name mentioned in the media for years. As an art/design student who used to spend time watching British art house films at the ICA, Derek Jarman and Peter Greenaway were the two directors whose films regularly featured there.

This small exhibition is part of the Jarman2014, a year-long celebration of the life and work of the multidisciplinary artist/ filmmaker/ activist, Derek Jarman who died twenty years ago of HIV-related causes. The show focuses on Derek’s relationship with London, displaying a range of work including paintings, journals, film posters, photographs and film clips etc. Each visitor is also given an audio device with music and sounds that accompany the viewing. After the exhibition, I felt the need to re-watch his films again to understand the legacy he left behind.

 

Kara Walker at the Camden Art Centre (ended) – Africa-American artist, Kara Walker‘s first solo exhibition in the UK was small but powerful nonetheless. The life-sized silhouettes/ cut-outs looked ‘joyful’ from afar, but then when examined closely, they depicted some not so innocent tales. Even her shadow-puppet films are not made for comfortable viewing. Walker’s work deals with racial, gender and historical issues, it is dark, disturbing, critical and highly significant.

 

Wael Shawky at the Serpentine Gallery (ended) – I wanted to see The Chapman brothers‘s exhibition at the Serpentine Sackler gallery but left the place disappointed (see below). Yet at the Serpentine Gallery nearby, I was pleasantly surprised by Egyptian artist, Wael Shawky‘s work. I had never heard of this artist before but was genuinely impressed by his two films, Cabaret Crusades thatdepict episodes from the medieval Crusades enacted by marionettes based on historical references and stories from both sides. Shawky is not only an accomplished story-teller, but an insightful one too.

 

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The manufacturing of tennis balls, chair and pencils at the In the making exhibition, Design Museum

 

In the making at the Design Museum (until 5th May) – This small exhibition is probably slightly overshadowed by the Paul Smith exhibition downstairs, but it is a real gem. The show is curated by Edward Barber and Jay Osgerby (founders of Barber & Osgerby, and the designers of the 2012 Olympic torch), and it features over 20 everyday objects at the earlier stages of their production. It is so fascinating to see seemingly familiar objects in their unfinished states, and some of them are almost unrecognisable… like the tennis balls above. The show allow viewers to understand the manufacturing processes and learn about stories behind these everyday objects. Even though these unfinished pieces are not functional, the rawness makes them look almost more beautiful and intriguing than the finished designs!

 

Liu Wei: Density at White Cube Mason’s Yard (until 15th March) – Liu is a conceptual artist from Beijing who works in various media such as installation, drawing, sculpture, painting and video. His first solo exhibition in the UK explores the issue of urbanism by using architectural materials. The artist’s new installations contain no ‘stereotypical’ Chinese elements, yet they are about important issues facing China today. The enormous geometric sculptures in the downstairs gallery are constructed from books, iron and wood. Their over-bearing presence enables visitors to experience the spatial crowdedness he refers to in urban areas. Thoughtful and intriguing.

 

The rest:

David Lynch: The factory photographs, Andy Warhol: photographs from 1976-1987 & William S. Burroughs at The Photographer’s gallery (until 30th March) It’s hard to describe how I feel about the three exhibitions within the gallery… as a semi-fan of David Lynch‘s earlier work, I was slightly disappointed with the work shown here. His black-and-white photos of empty and derelict industrial sites in Europe and America are moody and ‘cold’, but they are also repetitive and hard to engage. I found Burroughs‘s work quite intriguing but was more fascinated by Warhol‘s obsessive documenting, as it also revealed him and his relationships with his subjects. Overall, a very mixed show, but perhaps it was due to my high expectations beforehand.

 

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Left: A surreal pop-up Georgian garden appeared at the British Library; Right: Garden at the Estorick Collection.

 

Georgians revealed: Life, Style and the Making of Modern Britain at the British Library (until 11th March) – This major exhibition focuses on the culture, architecture, fashion and leisure of the Georgian period. It is very informative, but I found some aspects are more interesting than others. My favourite of the show was the last room, which is full of enlarged prints of Richard Horwood’s 1790s map of London… utterly captivating.

 

Emilio Greco: Sacred and Profane at Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art (ended) I don’t often visit this Italian art gallery near Highbury/Islington, yet I have always enjoyed my visits here. This exhibition featured work by the Sicilian sculptor and artist, Emilio Greco (1913–95), who is considered to be one of Italy’s most important modern sculptors. His powerful portrait busts and sensual nudes were the highlights, but his drawings and etchings were quite impressive too. This wonderful gallery is often overlooked by tourists and even locals, yet it is one of the best galleries in north London and its cafe provides a chill-out zone that overlooks a small landscaped garden with several life-size sculptures.

 

The Everlasting Flame: Zoroastrianism in History and Imagination at the Brunei Gallery, SOAS (ended) – This exhibition was bigger than I expected, and it showcased a lot of historical artifacts and manuscripts, as well as a walk-in fire temple. Zoroastrianism is one of the world’s oldest religions, and it originated amongst the Iranian peoples in Central Asia during the second millennium BC. It spread east along the Silk Road as far as China and south-west to Iran, and was once the state religion in Iran before Islam. The religion’s belief is based on good (Ahura Mazda) versus evil (Ahriman), and that the world will come to an end once Evil has been fully overcome. The exhibition offers an educational opportunity for visitors to learn more about this ancient and rather mysterious religion.

 

Art under Attack: histories of British iconoclasm at Tate Britain (ended) – This exhibition examined the history of physical assaults and vandalism on art in Britain from the Reformation to the present day. I found the earlier work more interesting than the recent ones, especially work that was destroyed or defaced due to religious reasons. The subject matter here is quite fascinating, but the exhibition itself was quite inconsistent and it became irrelevant and less engaging towards the end, which was a shame.

 

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Sensing Spaces: Architecture Reimagined. Top left: Álvaro Siza’s installations outside; Top right: Diébédo Francis Kéré’s interactive installations; 2nd & bottom row left: Pezo von Ellrichshausen’s Blue; 2nd row middle: Grafton Architects; 2nd row right & main: Kengo Kuma’s installation; Bottom row middle and right: Li Xiaodong

 

Sensing Spaces: Architecture Reimagined at Royal Academy of Art (until 6th April) I suppose it must be very challenging to curate an exhibition on architecture. But this major exhibition at the Royal Academy demonstrate what can be achieved within the confined gallery space. The exhibition is all about the visitors’ sensory experiences… with the surrounding space, the installations and even other people at the show.

Pezo von Ellrichshausen‘s ‘Blue’ installation is an imposing wooden structure with four cylinders/ staircases that led visitors to the top deck. It brings out a sense of adventurous within us and makes us want to ‘explore’ more.

I have always liked work by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, his scented bamboo installations at the show are poetic and quite sensational. In another room, Chinese architect Li Xiaodong uses twigs to create a meditative labyrinth that eventually led us to a mirrored space with pebbles, which is the zen garden and ‘temple’.

The overall experience at this exhibition was a light-hearted one, and I applaud the Royal Academy for putting up such a brave show that is very different from their standard exhibitions.

 

Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore at the Somerset House (ended) – I did not expect the crowd outside of this exhibition on a cold Saturday afternoon ( I guess I haven’t been to an exhibition in the weekends for a long time), so I returned on Monday since the entrance fee was reduced by half on the day. As expected, the exhibition was all about creative and cutting edge fashion, and was dominated by pieces from her two favoured designers, Alexander McQueen and Philip Treacy. The show focused more on Blow‘s fashion legacy rather than her personal life and tragic end. Aside from the amazing wardrobe, there were also correspondence between her and various fashion publications that revealed her eccentricity and spending habits. The show allowed us to get a glimpse into the world of a colourful and unconventional character driven by a passion for creativity. It is not only a celebration her legacy, but more importantly, it reminded us of human’s vulnerabilities despite of the glamourous and successful facades.

 

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Hello, my name is Paul Smith at the Design Museum

 

Hello, my name is Paul Smith at the Design Museum (until 22nd June) – I often see Paul Smith as a successful entrepreneur, collector, and a down-to-earth guy who is a rarity in the fashion world. I met him years ago in his flagship store behind the counter and he was so friendly and genuine, which really left a strong impression on me. However, I never saw him as a cutting-edge designer, and perhaps this is one of the reasons for his success. This exhibition is not so much about his designs but more about him, the person behind a highly successful global brand: a designer, collector, photographer, entrepreneur, perfectionist, traveler, loving husband, and most of all, someone who is passionate and true to himself. The show itself perhaps is too aesthetically-driven, but it is able to convey Smith‘s spirit and passion. And it is not hard to understand why he is one of the most inspiring entrepreneurs around today.

 

Most disappointing

Facing the Modern: The Portrait in Vienna 1900 at the National Gallery (ended) – I came to see the show for two reasons: Egon Schiele and Gustav Klimt, but left the show disappointed. Yes, there were some great work on display by the two artists as well as many other well-known artists from the same period, but the show was stuffy, unfocused and apathetic. The problem was not to do with the work but the curation itself. I left the show with some historical facts and dates yet completely emotionless.

 

Jake and Dinos Chapman: Come and See at Serpentine Sackler Gallery (ended) Once upon a time, British artists like Damien Hirst, Tracey Emin and The Chapman Brothers were YBAs (Young British Artists) who ruled the British art scene. I have never been fond of work by the group but I thought The Chapman Brothers‘s work was darker, deeper and more provocative. Yet at this show, the ‘shock’ tactic, a theme that runs throughout their work seems repetitive, calculating and dated. McDonalds, the Nazis and consumerism are just some of the villains here, but their cynicism and humour is no longer refreshing and thought-provoking, instead I found it rather egocentric and jaded. The show offered nothing new and I left the exhibition devoid of much emotion except for boredom.

 

The joy of (window) shopping in Andalusia

The reason why I don’t write much about shopping in London is partly because I don’t enjoy it these days and do most of my shopping online. I avoid Oxford street and Tottenham Court Road like the plague, and I find shopping in central London extremely uninspiring. Specialists and independent shops are hard to find and even areas like Notting Hill and Islington are becoming more mainstream, and so we are left with Shoreditch, Bethnal Green, Stoke Newington, Brixton, Dalston or Lamb Conduit Street for something different.

High streets in London or Britain are now dominated by chains (with a few exceptions), they are becoming homogeneous with no distinctive characters nor individuality. And we wonder why the British high streets are dying whilst e-commerce is booming? A friend from abroad visited London last summer and we went to Richmond for the day… I was horrified by its high street because despite the historical facade, the shops are no different from the ones in Westfield or Tunbridge Wells. Do the public want the same shops in every city and town? I doubt it.

 

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Top left: Ale hop shop; Top right: Design in Andalusia products; Bottom left: Maspapeles stationery shop: Bottom right: Camden shop in Seville

 

In Andalusia, however, I was thrilled to see traditional and specialist shops next to secondhand or trendy designer boutiques. Yes, there are some chained shops and touristy souvenirs but they are not in every corner, independent/specialists shops co-exist with chained ones and the balance is just right. There are shops selling flamenco outfits, fans, fabrics, crafts, hair accessories, hats and ceramics etc. Also, the art of visual merchandising is celebrated here, even a hardware store would take the time to make their window display ‘appealing’ to passerby. If only shops in the U.K. could understand the impact of display aesthetics on their shops, then perhaps our high streets could still be ‘saved’.

 

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Top left and midde: La Libelula; Top right and 2nd row right: Maria Gavira; Bottom left: A shopping street in Granada; Bottom right: A espadrille/ shoe shop in Cordoba

 

Here are some shops that I stumbled upon during my trip, as a bigger city, Seville offers a lot more in terms of shopping but the other two cities also offer some traditional and specialists shops:

Seville:

La Libelula (Calle Cuna, 45, Alfalfa) – A multi-storey fashion and home furnishings shop with an airy courtyard, florist, exhibition area and cafe. The shop stocks from many new/ up and coming Spanish designers, so it is a good place to check out the names from the local fashion scene.

Wabi Sabi shop and gallery (Viriato, 9, La Macarena) – Located north of the city centre, although the shop uses the Japanese term, ‘wabi sabi’ ( aesthetics or beauty that is imperfect or impermanent), its shop theme is not actually Japanese. It is a lifestyle shop that specialises in contemporary art and design, covering fashion, home furnishings, recycled antique furniture, books, art and crafts, and it also has an online shop, gallery and workshop space for various events to take place.

Maria Gavira (Calle Mateos Gago 29, Santa Cruz) – I came across this small fashion/ accessories shop in Santa Cruz and was greeted by the lovely owner, Maria. She doesn’t speak much English, but we ended up communicating in French ( it turns out that my rustic French can be useful in certain circumstances). Maria uses textiles to create beautiful fashion accessories and home furnishings ( you can see her handmade shower caps and decorations in the photos above), but she also stocks an interesting range from other craftsmen and fashion brands. After making my purchase, Maria was keen to recommend some tapas and flamenco places and she marked them all down for me on my map! Her hospitality really touched me, but best of all, she is a passionate designer/maker and I felt like we bonded very quickly. This proves that language and culture is never a barrier when you share similar values and passion.

 

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Top left, right and 2nd row middle: Galerias Madrid; 2nd row left: Raquel Terán; 3rd row: Ashop near Plaza de Jesús de la Pasión selling hair accessories for Catholics; 4th row right: Traditional fans at Dizal; Last row right: Enrique Sanchis

 

Galerias Madrid (Calle Cuna, 42, Alfalfa) – If you love fabric, you will love this multi-storey store that sells fabrics and textiles for upholstery and apparel including all the trimmings for a flamenco dress!

Raquel Terán (Calle Francos, 6, Alfalfa) – if you are looking for flamboyant, vintage-like and feminine flamenco fashion, you will it here! The style is rich, colourful and full of trimmings, and they even have a children’s collection.

Dizal (Calle Sierpes 48, Alfalfa) – Traditional fans can be found here and at Diza (no.75) at affordable prices.

Maspapeles (Calle Zaragoza, 17) – A stationery shop that sells a range of quality notebooks, pens, wrapping paper and boxes etc.

Enrique Sanchis (Calle Sierpes 19, Alfalfa) – It’s hard to miss this century-old watchmaker’s shop front ( see photo above), it is especially known for its array of antique timepieces.

 

Ceramics and tiles

The district of Triana has been producing azulejos (ceramic tiles) since Roman times and it is named after the Roman Emperor Trajanus. The area was once full of ceramic workshops and potteries, unfortunately as the trade diminishes, workshops are now hard to find, and only a handful of ceramic or souvenir shops are left. However, a new Centro Ceramica Triana (ceramic musuem) is due to open soon after much delay.

 

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Main: Ceramica Santa Ana; 2nd row left: Ceramica La Aliaza; 2nd row middle: Emilio García Ortiz; Second row right and bottom row: Populart

 

Ceramica Santa Ana (Calle San Jorge, 31, Triana) – Sadly, I just found out that this famous ceramic shop has closed its doors ( I thought it was just closed on the day I visited), but the impressive facade is still worth the time if you happen to be in the area.

Populart ( Pasaje de Vila 4, Santa Cruz) – this wonderful Andalusian ceramic and tile shop is close to the Cathedral and sells a wide range of antique and contemporary tiles and potteries suitable for all budgets. A must-stop for all tile lovers!

 

Artisans and specialists

Cordoba

One of the most interesting and unique sight in Andalusia is that many craftsmen and artisans are happy to ‘show-off’ their skills and expertise publicly. Passerby can watch or peek into their open studio or workshop to see the artisans at work, which I think is a great ( and free) way to market themselves!

Ceramica Elhumo ( C/ Corregidor Luis de la Cerda 68) – Two local artists, Valle Sillero and Jesús Rey run a small studio/shop that allows passerby to admire their sculpting skills. They use a special Raku technique to make clocks, lamps, pots, human and animal figures, home decorations and paintings that are inspired by the local culture.

Sala El Potro (13 Plaza del Potro) – this small art gallery in the famous Plaza del Potro sells limited edition prints and original artwork by emerging and established Andalucian artists. The gallery also has an online shop for those who want your art to be delivered to your door without going all the way to Cordoba!

 

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Top row: Sombrerería Herederos de J Rusi; Bottom left: An artisan at work in his studio in Cordoba; Bottom middle: Ceramica elhumo

 

Sombrerería Herederos de J Rusi (Calle Conde de Cardenas 1) – Originally from Cordoba, the famous and award-winning Spanish hat-maker has a small and charming shop that keeps its family traditions and craftsmanship alive. Opened since 1903, it feels like little has changed over the years, I just love the rows of circular hat boxes neatly stacked on the shelves! Although I did not buy any hats, I felt good knowing that traditional and quality craftsmanship is still being appreciated in our disposable culture today.

 

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Daniel Gil de Avalle 

 

Granada

Daniel Gil de Avalle (Plaza del Realejo, 15) – A chance to see the guitarrero (guitar maker) at work through its large window at this longstanding music shop that specialises in handmade classical and flamenco guitars.

 

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Top left and middle: Artesano manuel morillo in Granada; Top right: a Marquetry shop inside the Alhambra; 2nd row left: traditional toys sold at the Palacio de Viana shop in Cordoba. Main: a local craft shop at Plaza de la Corredera in Cordoba.

 

Artesano Manuel Morillo (Calle Ánimas, 1) – Tarecea (marquetry) is a traditional craft originated from the Moors and is unique to Granada in Spain. Manuel Morillo Castillo is a craftsman who makes marquetry boxes, objects and chess sets, and you can watch him at work in his shop near Plaza Nueva. I bought a few boxes (under €10) as souvenir for friends and family and they all love the design and craftsmanship, and they look more expensive than what I paid for!

 

Vintage and collectibles

Throughout my trip I came across many vintage, retro and collectible shops which I didn’t expect before the trip. From vintage stamps to dolls, toys and books, Andalusia is great for those who love everything nostalgic!

 

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3rd row left: Cuevas Juguetería Técnica; 4th row right: Le Secret de Carmen in Seville; 4th row left, middle and 5th row: El Laberino in Cordoba.

 

Seville:

Le Secret de Carmen (Candilejo 8) – a small shop dedicated to Carmen! They sell antiquities, vintage articles, books, posters, CD and records around Carmen and Seville.

F. Cuevas Jugueteria tecnica (Plaza de San Francisco, 16) – this is no ordinary toy shop, it sells cars, trains and plane models, figurines, dolls and accessories, kitchenettes etc from all eras and for all ages. You can find antique and collectible toys that are geared towards adults who have a nostalgic streak, and unfortunately they also come with rather high price tags.

Cordoba:

El Laberino (Ronda de Isasa 4) – I love secondhand bookshops, and so I was excited when I saw this spacious riverside bookshop. Apart from many Spanish classics, there are also vintage children’s books, magazines, printed matters and books in other languages.

 

 

Summer fashion accessories from Asia

I rarely write about fashion here because I am not a fashion blogger, nor do I follow the current fashion trends. These days, I would rather buy less but spend on quality items that are well-made, timeless and slightly unusual. As a huge fan of all things Japanese, I am surprised by the lack of choices for independent Japanese fashion brands here ( and I don’t mean Uniqlo or Muji), so I would splash out more than usual when I travel to Asia.

I love canvas made fashion accessories because they are light, durable and functional. The Japanese are especially well-known for their canvas designs, and so they are almost essential in many Japanese people’s wardrobes.

 

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During my trip to Asia, I discovered the Japanese shoes brand Tokuyama and immediately I fell in love with their colourful and beautifully made canvas shoes and slippers! I couldn’t find an outlet outside of Japan selling them, so I contacted them directly. In the end, I decided to order their Tote and Tote sneakers designed by Mag design labo./ Keita Hanazawa after exchanging a few emails with the company ( something that I rarely do).

I was quite excited when the shoes arrived because they both came in lovely shoe bags! However, the Tote were slightly too tight and I had to exchange them, but the company was helpful and did not charge me for sending the second pair. I have been receiving many compliments whenever I am out in my Tote sneakers, but more importantly, they are really comfortable thanks to the soft microfibre insole material.

 

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Bag n Noun is a fashion accessory brand set up by Takeshi Ozawa, who draws inspiration from European military and work wear. His colourful and functional bags are all made in Osaka and are extremely well crafted. I love my mustard toolbag, because it is roomy and very functional. There are several UK stockists here that carry this brand, but for something more unique, the only way is to go their shops in Japan. I bought this lovely two-toned blue bag in their small shop near Tokyo station, it can be stored flat but is surprisingly roomy when you open it up. There are 4 vertical outer pockets, so apart from looking good, it is extremely functional too!

 

plus minus bag

 

Japanese industrial designer Naoto Fukasawa‘s name is often associated with Muji, but he is also the design director of ±0 ( or ‘plus minus zero’). Just like Muji, the brand’s products are simple, minimal and functional that are suited for contemporary living. Their cute sole bag is inspired by the rubber soled shoes worn by school children throughout Japan. On the surface it looks like an average canvas bag, but the bottom is shaped like a shoe, so the bag can stand on its own on the floor! How funny and cool!

 

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I haven’t bought a new watch for years, but I was tempted when I discovered boat or ‘be optimistic and thankful‘, where customers can customise their own designs from an extensive array of options. I love the fact that each watch’s sealed wax face is stamped individually, it definitely makes the watch more special. Hong Kong designers Leo Chiu and Siu Man are the brains behind this wonderful concept, the watch resembles Uniform wear but it is much cheaper ( at 85 USD) and more fun. It is hardly a watch for the connoisseurs but it is certainly good enough as a fashion statement.

 

Shopping in Kyoto

My last Kyoto blog entry is on shopping…

Since I spent much of the time in the rural area exploring temples and gardens, there was barely time for shopping. The day before I left for Tokyo, I went into the city centre during the late afternoon and spent a few hours exploring the shopping district.

 

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Traditional shops selling local crafts and souvenir on Saga-Toriimoto preserved street

 

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Kitsch-style shop and geisha-themed stationery

 

Food

Nishiki Market, known as as “Kyoto’s Kitchen”, has been trading since 1310 is a must for foodies. There are fresh seafood, vegetables, dried and pickled food, knives and cookware etc. The market is one of the cleanest markets I have been to, unfortunately, I arrived quite late and many stores were closing, otherwise, I could spend hours here…

 

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Nishiki market

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Beautiful food packaging and different types of Kit Kat including matcha flavour & a Kyoto edition

 

Stationery & paper crafts

As a city known for its strong heritage and traditional arts and crafts, it would be a waste not to visit the stationery or paper crafts shops while I was there. However, these shops are scattered in different parts of the city and due to the limited time, I was only able to visit a few of them within the same district. It is essential to do a bit of planning beforehand as some of them are not easy to find, but shops tend to open until 7.30 or 8pm, so I was able to do some last minute shopping.

 

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Traditional stationery shops can still be seen in the city centre

 

Suzuki Shofudo – this 115-year old paper craft shop not only sells colourful and graphical washi paper and stationery, it also provides paper-making workshops at its premise. If time is limited, this shop is a good place to visit if you are looking for stationery with a traditional touch. I also love the shop’s “frog” identity, it’s just too cute ( see below)…

Not far from the shop is Rokkaku, a more contemporary paper shop that designs and prints customised invitations and cards, but it also sells greeting cards and letter sets. Many of the cards are letterpressed, they are simple and yet elegant and come with very nice envelopes.

 

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Main, middle left & middle: Suzuki Shofudo. Middle right & bottom: Rokkaku

 

Benrido – I stumbled upon this stationery shop when I last visited Kyoto and I could still remember my excitement when I stepped into the shop. I love the art-inspired stationery and postcards. I have this odd passion for plastic folders and I have a few of them in A4 and A5 sizes. I find them particularly useful when I travel, but it’s only in Japan where I can find different graphical patterns. Here, the shop has a variety of plastic folders with traditional and contemporary motifs and patterns, which made me very happy. This shop is also a great place to find traditional-inspired stationery for friends back home.

 

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Benrido

 

Uragu – this tiny paper shop hidden in an alleyway was surprisingly busy when I visited. It was not an easy find, but the traffic police knew the shop as soon as I showed him the address. There are beautiful greeting cards, postcards, letter sets and notebooks neatly displayed on dark wooden shelves here. The prices are not cheap but the items are one of a kind and are hard to find elsewhere.

 

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Design

Opposite Benrido is the Kyoto design house, located on the ground floor of the Nikawa Building, designed by architect Tadao Ando. There are many beautiful design items on sale here from contemporary to more classic designs that showcase Japanese traditional craftsmanship.

 

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Kyoto design house

 

Fashion

Although I love new and cool designs, I also love traditional designs that beautifully crafted by hand. And in Kyoto, I was constantly drawn by various hair combs and pins behind the glass displays while walking down the streets. Besides hair accessories, graphical tenugui ( a traditional cotton towel or cloth) and tabi socks can also be seen in many shops here.

 

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Traditional fashion accessories

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Main: sushi-inspired accessories; Bottom left: tabi socks; Bottom right: tenugui bags

 

From its cool shop display, it would be hard to imagine that Raak has been around since 1534. It specialises in tengunui, which can be used as a scarf, wine bottle wrapper and even bags. There are many colourful graphical patterns available and are mostly seasonal, a visit to the shop will make you realise how creative one can be with just a piece of cloth.

 

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Raak

 

SOU SOU is the Japanese equivalent of Marimekko and is one of my favourite Japanese fashion brands, originally from Kyoto. I bought a pair of canvas shoes from their Tokyo shop a few years ago and I think they are cooler than Converse. In Kyoto, their main shop occupies three floors selling tabi socks, shoes, bags and their collaboration with Le coq sportif. Opposite the building, there is a womenswear shop, a menswear shop further down, as well as a few shops specialising in childrenswear, soft furnishing and textiles nearby. I love their bold graphical prints and their merge of traditional craftsmanship, techniques with modern designs. As far as I know, most items are made in Japan, so the quality is ensured.

 

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 SOU SOU

 

Beauty

When in Kyoto, it will be hard to miss Yojiya‘s brand identity… a simple black and white sketch of a woman’s face. Founded in 1904, this cult beauty shop is famous for its “Aburatorigami” (Oil blotting Facial Paper), which is particularly useful in summers. There are several shops located in the city but my favourite is the one on Philosophy path, which has a shop and a tea house next door.

 

Yojiya green tea perfume

Yojiya’s window display and green tea solid perfume made and sold at Taizo-in

 

TN29 by Tracey Neuls

TN29

Drop by Tracey Neuls x Tord Boontje

 

For an ex-shopaholic like me, I am now buying only about 10% of what I used to in a year. I spent years using shopping as a means of stress relief from work, and it was only when I started selling all my unwanted stuff on ebay that I realised how ‘insane’ I had been!

These days, I rarely buy fashion items on impulse, and even when I see something I love, I would walk away and wait a few days before deciding on whether I really want the item or not. Most of time, I would forget about it almost instantly after I walk away, so this tactic has proven to be quite successful and has saved me a lot of cash!

When I used the same tactic after trying on some cool shoes at the Tracey Neuls/ TN29 store, I eventually returned a week later because I love them THAT much!

 

tn29 shopIMG_3637GEEK SHOES

 

I have always been liked the TN29 collection for its quirkiness, but I thought they are slightly out of my price range ( I have also turned into a fashion cheapskate these days), so it was only during the sales period that I allowed myself to step into their very cool shop in Marylebone.

Within minutes, I fell in love with Geek Natural, a collaboration between Tracey and Dutch furniture designer, Tord Boontje, but was told that they had ran out of my size. The sales assistant then persuaded me to try the classic Brogue and the shockingly bright neon orange Geek ( both are their best sellers for many seasons). After trying them on, I was surprised by how comfortable they are… it was quite unexpected, but I struggled to decide and left the shop emptied-handed.

When I returned the second time, I left the shop with a lighter wallet ( well, not literally because I don’t usually carry so much cash on me) and the ‘brightest’ shoes I have ever bought in my life. When I got home, I had to console my guilt by reaffirming myself how ‘cool’ they look and that they will last for many years to come… It worked and my guilt disappeared almost instantly.

 

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Dress for yourself

2013 is here and I have a sudden urge to change my personal style…

I consider my character to be quite tomboyish, but being a ‘tomboy’ is more about an inner attitude rather than the sexual orientation or appearance, and often people get confused by this term. Even when I was young, I hated wearing dresses or anything in pink, and I longed to be like the boys. During my teenage years, I wasn’t interested in boys from neighbouring schools, make-up nor other ‘girly’ activities, and so other girls at my all girl school started spreading rumour about my sexual orientation. This was extremely distressing for a 14/15 year old, and so I felt pressurised to conform, yet I never felt comfortable with it. When I eventually became one of the few female 6th form students in a boy school, I felt quite at home there. Finally I felt like I was one of the boys/lads and I had the best two years of my life there!

Then I went through a rebellious period in my mid 20s, and intentionally created an androgynous look with very short spiky hair and wearing mostly black/dark unisex outfits. I hung out with lesbian colleagues (I worked in the world of advertising!) or people who dressed similar as me. This made people wonder about my sexual orientation (again), it amused me but didn’t bother me much. I felt good about my ambiguous image, this was my quiet protest against the society’s mainstream/ stereotypical image of women.

 

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Are you what you wear?

 

I am lucky that I have never had to work in a corporate environment, so I have always been able to dress for myself, but problems began to arise when I took up tango a few years ago. In the world of tango, how you dress definitely affects the chances of being asked to dance. I constantly felt out of place because I have never dressed to impress others/men before. Surrounded by women in seductive or glamourous outfits striving to catch the eyes of the opposite sex at milongas made me feel like I have been transported to a few centuries back in time. As much as I love the dance, the sexist and egocentric environment is a constant struggle that my strong-minded female friends and I have to deal with. Most of friends eventually gave up, while I continued to find ways to survive without feeling that I have betrayed myself! Recently, I started to switch role; learning to dance as a leader is very challenging but at least I don’t have to sit around all night ‘eyeing up’ men to ask me to dance. Meanwhile, I am also seeing more women leaders on the dance floor, which I think this is a healthier sign.

From what I observe through tango in different cosmopolitan cities made me realise that gender equality is still far from being a reality. I do not intend to compete with men, but I feel that women do not deserve enough respect from men and the society. When I heard about a poor young woman being gang raped on a bus in India; not only it triggered my anger and empathy, it also made me wonder if sexual objectification of women will ever end? I sincerely hope that her tragic death would eventually bring about positive changes in India, but as always, collective effort/ consciousness is needed to make a real impact.

You can sign the petition (on the link below) to the government of India to help end violence against women at Avaaz.org.

As an independent woman living in the West, I feel lucky that I have never had to ‘work’ on pleasing the opposite gender, but I have also experienced being ‘objectified’ in the past which utterly disgusted me. I know that many women still associate femininity and confidence with what they wear, yet I firmly believe it is an inner quality that should shine beyond what you wear.

As we get older, it’s not always easy to stay completely true to yourself, there are times when we have to conform or compromise for one reason or another. So if fashion is a personal statement or expression, then we should use this opportunity to stay true to ourselves and not dress for other people (this excludes religious dress codes). One of my new year’s resolutions is to strive to be as honest to myself as possible, which is easier said than done.

As for my new look in 2013, I will say goodbye to my hair and welcome the return of the less feminine short hair again. However, I no longer feel the need to create an image or make a statement because comfort is my priority these days, and I will continue to live by the motto – dress for yourself.

 

Converse x Marimekko

I have a soft spot for Converse even though they are not the most comfortable shoes! My fashion ‘dilemma’ has always been whether to go for something I really like but not at all practical or something that is just functional or practical. I have gone down both routes, these days I try to find a middle ground.

Summer sales started last month and I had been too busy to shop, but thanks to online shopping, I spotted these Converse x Marimekko shoes on Net-a-porter... and as a fan of Marimekko prints, I just couldn’t resist the temptation!

The Unikko poppy print is Marimekko’s most popular and recognizable pattern created in 1964 by Finnish designer, Maija Isola. It’s such a classic design, bold but not too girly. I love the shoe bag too!

I think I have fallen back in love with Converse again…

 

Goodbye +J!

Finally, the successful collaboration between Jil Sander and Uniqlo has come to an end. Who could have guessed that Uniqlo would be the retailer to launch Jil Sander‘s comeback? From what I recall, this is probably one of the most successful fashion designer + retailer collaborations in recent years besides the H & M one.

Since A/W 2011 was the last season, most items were snapped up pretty quickly in London esp. during the sales. I happened to walk past Uniqlo in Paris and was glad to see quite a few +J items still available (and in my size). Eventually, I bought this military green mid-length wool coat, reduced to €80 from €200! It is a classic and timeless coat that will last a long time, so I am very happy with this purchase.

Now I wonder if the new UU collection, a collaboration with the funky and avant-garde Japanese label, Undercover will bring surprises or not?

Looking at their official campaigne photos (here), Jun Takahashi seemed to have toned down and designed a ‘wearable’ family collection. Though all will be revealed in a month’s time, so we will have to wait and see…

 

F-Troupe

 

Apart from essentials, I rarely shop for fashion items these days. As someone who used to work in fashion and a shopaholic, I accumulated so much ‘stuff’ over the years that I simply ran out of room(s) to fit them all.

Then one day, I decided to sell all my unworn and barely-used fashion items on ebay and it really changed my life. Not only did I discover the joy of selling but also the joy of consuming less.

Nowadays, I would buy my fashion essentials from Uniqlo, Muji or Cos, though occasionally would treat myself to something special… mostly during the sales period. Since I discovered F-Troupe two years ago, an independent British brand for footwear, I couldn’t resist the temptation and have bought a few pairs of shoes from them ( great bargains during the sales). I like their designs because they are quirky, playful, original with British historical and functional influences. In their A/W 2011 collection, they launched a Harris Tweed collection of shoes and boots called “Glorious 12th” that are hand woven from pure virgin wool in Scotland.

 

 

I love their website, their fun shoe boxes as well as their store that looks more like a curiosity shop near Carnaby Street! These days, it’s not easy to find fashion brands that have strong identities and are not heavily influenced by trends, and F-Troupe stands out because they are not trend-followers.

Last week, I saw these patent leather burgundy boots in their store and just fell for them, not sure how practical they are but I just couldn’t resist…

Sales are still on in store and online:

33 Marshall Street, London, W1F 7EX

www.f-troupe.com