Street art & graffiti in Fort Kochi

Posted on March 29, 2020 by Toothpicker

Meydad Eliyahu’s “Red Crown Green Parrot” project for the Kochi-Muziris Biennale 2018 in Jew Town.

If you walk around the streets of Fort Kochi and Mattancherry, you are highly likely to come across many street art pieces created by local artists. In the past, people often referred to artists working in the streets as street artists, but now the boundary is blurrer as many artists around the world are commissioned to create street art, whilst street artists are showcasing their street art pieces in prestigious art galleries. Thanks to Banksy, the status of street art has been ‘elevated’ over the last decade or so.

At the Kochi-Muziris Biennale 2018, Kashi Gallery commissioned Jerusalem-based artist Meydad Eliyahu, a descendant of Malabar Jews, and Dubai-based Thoufeek Zakriya, a Muslim born and raised in Kochi, to work on a public art project called “Red Crown Green Parrot”.

One of the pieces by Meydad Eliyahu (see above) is based on an historical photo of Eliyahu‘s great grandfather and other Malabari Jewish leaders taken in Fort Kochi. This work depicts the situation Malabari Jews had to deal with when they were forced by the Israeli goverment to move to Israel, leaving some family members behind. Like many others, Eliyahu‘s great grandfather passed away in Cochin after most of his family left for Israel.

Aside from works for the Biennale, you can still see many interesting street art pieces around town. Not surprisingly, nature is a common theme here.

I also spotted two dilapidated buildings covered with fascinating murals by the 24-year old Shanto Antony from Thrissur, a participant at the Biennale. I love his style, and I think it is a good idea to turn the facades of these abandoned buildings into an outdoor gallery.

Shanto Antony’s murals for the Biennale

One of the most famous graffiti artists in Kochi is Guesswho, an anonymous graffiti artist who has been active since 2012. His work revolves around socio-political issues, and he has been named as India’s ‘Banksy’ by the BBC for his provocative graffiti esp. after he openly criticised the Kochi-Muziris Biennale.

Guesswho street art

A city without street art is boring, and Kochi is definitely not one of them. Hence don’t forget to look out for the interesting street art and graffiti when you visit the place.

Above: a good question…

One winter’s day in Brighton

Posted on January 10, 2020 by Toothpicker

Not surprisingly, I have never visited Brighton in the winter, but an exhibition on my wish list brought me to the coastal city in January. Obviously, I had to check the weather forecast before booking my train ticket, and it was lucky that the forecast was correct for a change.

Sunshine and blue sky makes a huge difference in winter, especially in Brighton. I actually prefer Brighton’s seafront in winter than summer as it is calmer and less crowded. Walking along the beach in the morning was uplifting; I later returned here to watch the sunset before heading back to London, which was beautiful and mesmorising.

Although I have always liked Brighton, I don’t think I have explored it fully in the past. I am aware that many Londonders have moved here over the last few years, and it is not hard to understand why. As I wandered around the North Laine district, I was happy to see many indpenedent shops and cafes in the area. Honestly, I am so bored of seeing ubiquitous branded and chained stores in London these days, it actually puts me off going out to shop. Yet in Brighton, the shops look more interesting (at least in North Laine), and I liked the laidback and friendly vibe too. It is pathetic to hear people in the retail sector blaming online shopping for UK’s dying high streets. I believe that customers only turn to the internet because the high Streets are uninviting and uninspiring. If you visit cities like Norwich, Brighton or even Totnes (the famous Market town full of independent shops), you would see that their high streets are very vibrant and inspiring.

I never realised that Brighton has so many chocolate shops before; I was particularly intrigued when I walked past Be Chocolate by Michel Clement (15 Duke St). The chocolates looked so enticing that I walked in without much persuasion. I had a short chat with the chocolatier, and he told me that they have recently opened a counter in Selfridges. I told him that a counter is quite different from a shop, and I think that the shop is much more inviting. In London, I would rarely go into a chocolatier to buy chocolates, but here, I couldn’t resist the temptation and splashed out willingly. Their chocolates are fresh and excellent, so I do recommend a visit to their shop if you visit Brighton next time.

Be Chocolate

I have wanted to try out the famous seafood restaurant Riddle & Finns for some time, and since it is the new year, I decided to treat myself on this occasion. The oysters and seafood linguine were fresh and delicious, and I had an interesting conversation with an elderly Scottish gentleman sitting opposite me about our oysters, traveling and Scotland. For some strange reason, while chatting to the gentleman, I felt like I was on holiday, even though I was only less than 2 hours away from home. Perhaps it was the beach walk or the rosé, or a combo of the two…

Seafood at Riddle & Finns

It is hard not to notice the wonderful street art all around the city. I found it very relaxing to walk around the city, and felt that the people working in shops and cafes are friendlier than London. It is not that I dislike London, but the city has become too commercial and touristy in the last two decades, so much as that it is losing its charm and appeal. I have been pondering over leaving London for some time now, and a day trip to Brighton has reignited my inner debate. Yet even if I don’t move here, I would love to return this charming city and Hove again in the future.

To be continued…

The gentrification of Brixton

Posted on October 9, 2016 by Toothpicker

The restored grade II* listed Ashby’s Mill, also known as Brixton windmill (1816) & a trendy cafe nearby

Due to rapid urbanisation around the world, major urban cities are struggling to cope with the influx of migrants for the past few decades. Housing shortage is one of the biggest challenges that these cities have to deal with; hence gentrification of the more deprived neighbourhoods has been adopted to solve this ongoing issue.

The term ‘gentrification’ was first coined by German/British sociologist Ruth Glass in 1964, and it was used to describe the processes by which the poor were squeezed out of parts of London to make way for the middle and upper classes. Unsurprisingly, the term carries a negative connotation due to increased property values and the displacement of lower-income families and local businesses. Since the 1960s, many neighbourhoods in London have undergone unprecedented transformation, and not all have been welcomed.

When I was young, I was often warned about areas in London like Brixton, Kings Cross, Camden Town, Dalston, Bethnal Green and even Soho because of high crime rates, drug dealing and prostitution issues. Brixton was regarded as ‘the drugs capital of London’, and so it was seen as a no-go area in London – unless you were going to The Fridge (a well-known nightclub in the 80s & 90s).

I only got to know Brixton because of my ex – who owned a flat there – and it was around that period that the area started to transform. I used to walk through Brixton with my head down when I was alone because I was afraid to catch the eye of the drug dealers or gangsters. Then gradually I felt more relaxed and began to explore the colourful and bustling food markets and independent shops selling vintage/ethnic fashion. There were hardly any chained shops or trendy cafes then, but there were many local restaurants and cafes serving good cheap eats.

I have only been back to the area a few times since he sold his flat – for a hefty profit – but I never spent enough time to see the changes that took place. Twelve years on, I was back in Brixton for a day during the design festival, but I could hardly recognise it. Yes, the architecture still stands but everything else has changed. Our previous after-party eatery Speedy noodles has become Foxtons, and the once dated department store Morleys looks more like House of Fraser now after the glossy makeover.

Architecture

Top & bottom left: Brixton sort office on Blenheim Gardens (1891); Bottom right: The Windmill pub is also a live music venue

My visit to the gentrified Brixton brought memories and surprises. The surprises came from the area’s historical architecture, which is something that I overlooked in the past. In fact, Brixton has a diverse range of architecture – from Victorian to Edwardian and modernist – it is unlike any other neighbourhoods in London. And not to forget, it is also home of the only surviving windmill, Brixton windmill in inner London.

Top: The Grade II listed Corpus Christi Church (1887); 2nd left: The Railway Hotel, aka Brady’s Bar (1880) is now Wahaca Mexican restaurant; 3rd row: Brixton Library (1893); 4th left: Portico of the Grade II listed St Matthew’s church (1827); 4th right: Market House; 5th: the former Bon Marche department store (not related to the one in Paris) opened in 1877; 6th: Dogstar bar (former Atlantic pub)

Brixton has always been known for its diverse culture and music scene. The beloved Railway Hotel/ Brady’s bar – with a distinctive tower – has been a landmark since it first opened as a hotel in 1880. It became a popular spot for music and dance, and was reputedly frequented by Jimmy Hendrix and The Clash in the 1960s. Renamed as Brady’s in the 1990s, the iconic venue eventually closed down in 1999 and was left derelict since then. Despite long and persistent efforts to convert it to a community centre, the council finally sold it to the property developer, and now the site is occupied by the Mexican food chain Wahaca. Although the chain claims that it has restored the site to its former glory and is committed to the local community, it is hard not to feel sadden by the increasingly homogeneous streetscape in London now.

Brixton railway arches

Recently, clashes between Brixton’s anti-gentrification protestors and the police have made headline news. The protestors are angry that 30 local independent businesses in the Brixton Railway arches are being evicted by their landlord, Network Rail, and Lambeth Council, for a £8 million redevelopment of the arches. A petition objecting to Network Rail’s proposal has attracted nearly 30,000 signatures, and you can find more information by clicking on the Save Brixton arches website.

I can totally understand why the protestors are so upset especially after a visit to Pop Brixton, a Boxpark-like ‘village’ near the arches. The so-called village is occupied by trendy streetfood stalls and filled with young hipsters who usually hang out in Shoreditch, Dalston, Hackney and Peckham; and it looks completely out of place among the local market and shops nearby. As one can imagine, like the three areas mentioned, soon or later, Brixton will lose its unique identity and cultural diversity, and become another hipster paradise full of trendy and overpriced cafes and bars. Many have criticised the act of gentrification is a class war, and it is not difficult to see why they think that way.

Top row & 2nd left: The Lambeth Town Hall (1908); 2nd right: the former South Beach Bar originally opened as the Brixton Hill Cinematograph in 1911; 3rd row: the Grade II listed Ritzy cinema (1911) is now run by Picturehouse; Bottom two rows: Brixton fire station (1906)

Top: Electric Brixton/formerly known as The Fringe, originally opened as the Palladium Picture Playhouse in 1913; 2nd row: The Prince of Wales public House was built by Joseph Hill F.R.I.B.A. to replace the old building in 1937; 3rd row: the Brutalist Olive Morris House was designed by Edward ‘Ted’ Hollamby in 1975-8, 4th & 5th left: the Grade II listed Brixton Recreation centre was designed by British architect George Finch in 1971 and took 12 years to complete. Its future is uncertain and it is still under the threat of demolition; 5th right: Rush flower sculpture in Windrush Square; Bottom: The Black Cultural Archives opened in 2014

Streetscape, shops & people

The unique streetscape and shops in Brixton

The colourful food market and shops selling fresh and exotic produce

Street art/graffiti

Top: A mural inside the station created by Karen Smith and Angie Biltcliffe in 1986; 3rd row: Street art by Nathan Bowen; 6th middle: David Bowie mural; 6th right: French street artist Invader‘s mosaic; Bottom two rows: Save Brixton arches street art – the bottom one was created by morganico and Maria Beadell

Street art and graffiti has always played crucial role in Brixton, and the eviction of local business by Network Rail has given the street artists a platform to express their dismay. One can find street art under the arches against the controversial redevelopment and unfair eviction.

Across the street lies David Bowie‘s famous mural created by Australian street artist James Cochran in 2013. Now the mural has become his shrine and it may even get listed.

I can’t help feeling pessimistic about the future of Brixton. I think soon or later, local business run by Caribbean, African and other ethnic minorities will eventually be pushed out due to the increased rental costs, change of demographics and the invasion of chained/corporate-run businesses. But despite my pessimism, I still believe that community/people power can change things, and during this unsettling time, we need to support each other more than ever to fight for what we believe in.

Save

Street art and graffiti in Brighton

Posted on May 25, 2016 by Toothpicker

Odisy and Aroe MSK’s Run DMC mural in Kensington Street, created in 2008

Brighton is known for its arts and culture scene, and so it is not surprising to see a thriving street art scene here. The city is full of original street art pieces including a Banksy – the two kissing policemen – which was sold off at an auction, and now the spot is replaced by a replica. Is Banksy the Picasso of the street art scene? It seems like it.

Top row: Aroe MSK; 2nd left: Fat Heat; 2nd right: Sinna One

Kensington Street in The North Laine has a high concentration of prodigious street art murals. Most of the multi-storey walls here covered with artworks by local or international street artists like Aroe MSK, Hungarian-based Fat Heat and London-based Odisy etc.

One of the newest pieces is a mural of dogs, commissioned by the Brighton Festival. Created by Brighton-based artist and illustrator Sinna One, the playful piece was inspired by Laurie Anderson‘s love of dogs.

2nd left: Resin & Spen; 2nd right: Odisy & Tomjiroe; Bottom: RIP Mark Crook by Aroe MSK

2nd & 3rd right: Petrusco/Agent Petruscioni; 3rd left: Aroe MSK; 5th row: ‘The Doom’ created for Red Bull’s ‘Watch This Space’ event by London-based Emily Evans; 4th & bottom row: SNUB23.

I stumbled upon Brighton-based artitst SNUB23‘s unfinished geometric piece ‘Iso Hectic’ while I was wandering around the city. The finished can be seen via the artist’s website, and it reminds me of M.C. Escher’s mind–bending graphical works.

Brighton-based artist Petrusco‘s stencilled graffiti was initially mistaken as Banksy‘s new work, partly because of its message of political activism and human rights. The stencilled piece ‘Never underestimate the power of the flower‘ features a woman holding a flower and the peace symbol as a shield, and underneath it is the stencilled signature Agent Petruscioni. Another piece is called ‘Revolution starts in your mind. Join in’, and can be seen in different parts of the city.

Typographical lettering works can be seen all around the city

Besides walls, the city’s electricity boxes have also been turned into artists’ canvases. Many of them are humourous and even dissuade littering, which is great.

If you visit Brighton next time, don’t forget to check out the city’s diverse and inspiring street art scene!

Electricity boxes around the city (except 2nd right)

Reykjavik’s street art

Posted on February 19, 2016 by Toothpicker

Street art has become a global cultural phenomenon in the 21st century. What started as a subversive culture in the 1970s/80s New York has now evolved into a contemporary art movement.

While numerous street artists employ this medium to express their political views towards their governments and society, there are many who simply want to beautify the cities or connect with people through their aesthetically-driven work.

Top row: Painting the music by Deih; Bottom row: Australian artist Guido van Helten‘s large murals on the Loftkastalinn’ building are based on images from the screen play of Reykjavik 1961 theatre production, ‘no exit’ by Jean Paul Satre.

Before my trip to Iceland, I was rather ignorant of their art and design scene, and I was most certainly surprised to see a thriving street art scene in Reykjavik.

Like other Scandinavian countries, Iceland is often regarded as one of the ‘best’ places to live in the world. After the bankruptcy in 2008, the country has since made a miraculous financial recovery, and now the country’s economy is growing again. When compare to countries with more social or political or economical issues, I assume that the Icelandic citizens would probably have less to complain about. Well, maybe not.

Graffiti in public space was regarded as a major issue for the City of Reykjavik for years. And after the city council began to crack down on unauthorised graffiti, street artists decided to seek permission to paint on property owners’ walls or to accept commissions from businesses. And from what I saw, most of the art works now are more artistic-driven than political-driven. Yet the artistic values of these works are not to be underestimated, and they undoubtedly bring vibrancy and creativity to the city.

Street art in Glasgow

Posted on July 30, 2015 by Toothpicker

Mitchell Street‘s Taxi Balloons by Rogue-one

Before visiting Glasgow for the first time, I had a somewhat gloomy and rundown image of the city in my head, yet this preconceived idea was shattered when I arrived at the bustling city on a sunny day.

I was lucky with the weather, so I was able to walk around the city on foot and enjoyed the sights and architecture that the city has to offer. And I was very pleasantly surprised by the wonderful street art that I encountered in different parts of the city, these uplifting and playful works undoubtedly contribute to enhancing the streets of the city.

A majority of the prodigious wall murals in the city were commissioned by the City Council from 2008 onwards. Many renowned local artists took part in the project including Smug and Rogue One. If you are interesting to learn more or follow the official street art trail, you can download the map via this link and visit the Discover Glasgow website.

Top left: Dancing puppets by Rogue One (John Street); Top right: Girl with Magnifying Glass by Smug (Mitchell Street); Bottom left: Emoticon Hamlet by Peter Drew; Bottom right: Giant panda by Klingarton (Mitchell Lane)

The most impressive murals in my opinion are the series of pieces promoting the 2014 Commonwealth Games at the Ingram Street car park. Created in 2013 by Glasgow based Australia street artist Sam Bates a.k.a. Smug, the pieces depict the four seasons in a picturesque Scottish country scene, featuring an array of animals, including his infamous squirrel. The squirrel can also be spotted under the Kelvinbridge subway station (see below).

Ingram Street car park by Smug

Nearby at the Strathclyde University (on the corner of George Street/North Portland Street), a series of murals named ‘The Wonderwall’ were created by several artists including Art Pistol, Rogue One and Ejek.

Strathclyde University, The Wonderwall

There is plenty of work to be explored within the city, so on your next visit to Glasgow, watch out for these cool street art!

Top three rows: Kelvinbridge subway station street art by Smug & Bottom row: Kelvin Walkway by Smug

Tokyo street life

Posted on May 16, 2015 by Toothpicker

People-watching is my favourite pastime when I travel. I enjoy immersing myself in the surroundings and observing the quirks and odd sights. Sometimes being an outsider enables you to notice interesting sightings that are often neglected by the locals. What is ‘norm’ to the locals may be fascinating to the outsiders, our perceptions of our surroundings tend to change as we become more familiar with them, making us less aware and less curious over time.

I believe that traveling grants us opportunities to refresh our senses, embrace the unknown, generate new insights; and hopefully, see our familiar world with fresh eyes when we return.

The enduring allure of traditional kimonos

Tokyo is spellbinding because it is full of contradictions and it is unlike any other cities in the world. It is technologically advanced in many ways, and yet very traditional at the same time. And these contradictions are palpable in the streets… from fashion to architecture, it is the contrasts that the city so intriguing.

In this day and age, there are not many modern women who would choose to wear traditional costumes as their preferred dress code. In most East Asian countries, the younger generation is more interested in Western trends and fashion; yet it is in Japan that I still come across women of different ages wearing kimonos on the streets.

I think the traditional kimono is beautiful, and it has an enduring allure that stands the test of time. When I see a Japanese woman in kimono in the street, I become transfixed by its exquisiteness and versatility. It can be youthful, glamourous, elegant, sophisticated or subtle; and it conveys the unique qualities and characteristics of each individual. The Chinese cheongsam has a similar effect (think Maggie Cheung in “In the mood for love”), yet we seldom see it being worn nowadays except in tacky Chinese restaurants!

Whilst many visitors like to visit popular shopping areas like Shibuya, Ginza and Shinjuku. I prefer to spend time wandering (and getting lost) around the laidback and maze-like Yanaka and other less touristy districts. I am a flâneur at heart, and if I have unlimited time in Tokyo, I would idle my time away in the streets everyday.

Top: The bustling Shinjuku district; 2nd to 4th & 6th rows: Nihonbashi

In recent years, an area that has been going through some regeneration is Nihonbashi, one of the oldest districts in Tokyo. The area has the most stunning art deco style department stores in Tokyo, traditional crafts shops and architecture. Now with the new Coredo shopping complex, the vibe of the area has changed significantly, and the ubiquitous cranes also indicate that more changes are on their way.

Man-made ‘nature’ on the streets

The Japanese generally prefer their cities looking pristine and tidy, so the global street art/graffiti phenomenon has not affected Tokyo as much as other major international cities. However, in some trendy areas like Harajuku, Shibuya and Meguro, you may be lucky to come across something interesting if you look hard enough. If you are interested in the city’s graffiti scene, then check out Tokyo Graffiti index to locate the works.

Bottom two rows: Graffiti in Shibuya

In Japan, sometimes unexpected art may occur when we look down on the pavements! The Japanese have managed to turn the unappealing manhole covers into works of art in the last few decades. In different prefectures, you would find specifically designed manhole covers, and many of them are inspired by flowers or local spots of natural beauty. The concept is a wonderful way to make the streets more attractive and a surprisingly effective marketing tool!

Pavement art… Manhole covers, station platform art and ceramic tiles depicting old Tokyo in Nihonbashi

Hong Kong’s street art & exhibitions 2015

Posted on May 10, 2015 by Toothpicker

A giant pig in Mui Wo by Smile maker Hong Kong

It is interesting to see Hong Kong’s street art scene evolving over the last few years (you can read my previous entry from last year here). Compare to city like London, it is still in its infancy, but it is certainly more ‘happening’ than other immaculate-looking neighbours in Asia.

Street art is becoming more mainstream here, and it is partly due to HK walls, an annual street art and graffiti festival. The mission of the organisation is to create opportunities for local and international artists to bring their talents to the streets of Hong Kong by transforming large exterior walls into original works of art. The event took place in March, but you can still find a lot of the art work around SoHo, Sheung Wan and the Western district of Hong Kong island.

Top left: Parent’s Parents (HK); Top right: Rukkit (Thailand); 2nd row: Bruce Lee by Xeva (South Korea); 3rd right: Hopare (France); Bottom right: Rookie (Taiwan) & Gas (China)

2nd row: ‘Reclining Lady’ by Victoriano (Spain); Bottom right: Szabotage (Hong Kong/UK)

I stumbled upon an alley off Tai Ping Shan Street in Sheung Wan one day, and I was quite pleasantly surprised to see an array of works by local and international street artists like Barlo (Italy/HK), Egg Fiasco (Philippines), exld (Philippines) and Jay Flow (South Korea) etc covering both sides of the walls.

Top right: Barlo; 2nd row: exld, 3rd left: Egg Fiasco; 4th row: Jay Flow (South Korea)

Aside from the streets, art galleries are now seeing the value of works by street artists (thanks largely to Banksy). A solo exhibition of the notorious American street artist Alec Monopoly was presented ‘Capital Games’ at Above Second gallery in March/April. Monopoly is best known for his tuxedoed and top-hatted graffiti character of Uncle Pennybags, an idea originally inspired by the stockbroker Bernie Madoff. It is both apt and ironic to see his works (a critique of the capitalist greed) on the streets of a financial centre like Hong Kong. And aside from Uncle Pennybags, childhood mascots like Richie Rich and Scrooge McDuck were also featured at the exhibition. I was informed by the gallery assistant that his works sold exceedingly well, and many of the buyers were locals who seem to appreciate his playful and yet critical style.

Top row: Alec Monopoly’s street art; 2nd row: Alec Monopoly’s solo exhibition at Above Second gallery; Bottom: The ‘original’ Hong Kong street artist King of Kowloon’s calligraphy work at Lightstage

At the Lightstage Art & Events Space in March/April, the Google Cultural Institute dedicated an exhibition to Hong Kong’s cultural icon King of Kowloon (Tsang Tsou-choi), who painted over 55,000 street ‘calligraffiti’ works during his lifetime on the streets of Kowloon. Misunderstood and dismissed by the public and local authority during his lifetime, Tsang‘s work is finally being recognised worldwide and it is fantastic to see Google’s online virtual museum paying tribute to this ‘urban poet’.

Top & second rows: Invader’s ‘Wipe out’ exhibition at PMQ; Bottom two rows: New works by Invader

One of the most talked-about exhibitions in May was famous French street artist Invader‘s “Wipe out” exhibition at PMQ. Invited as a guest of the French consulate and as part of Le French May, the exhibition was a response to the Hong Kong authorities’ efficient removal of his pixelated mosaic works in 2014. Somehow dismayed by this undertaking, the street artist not only gave the exhibition a pertinent title, he (a guess after watching the work-in-progress videos at the exhibition) ‘invaded’ the city again.

What is so compelling about the street art phenomenon is the dialogues between every city’s authorities and the artists. What are the boundaries? Are the works vandalism or acts of defiance towards the authorities? Artists in the past have often challenged the authorities and expressed their opinions through art, the only difference now is that they are doing it outdoor instead. This is why I think the global street art scene is much more exciting than traditional art scene at the moment.

An unguided tour of Lisbon’s urban art

Posted on February 28, 2015 by Toothpicker

Av Fontes Pereira de Melo – Top & 2nd row: Os Gemeos and Blu

Before coming to Lisbon, I was a bit clueless in regards to Lisbon’s street art scene. Over the last few years, I have been documenting street art during my travels and in London; and it brings me immense thrill when I stumble upon cool urban art pieces in the most unexpected places. I never do research beforehand nor do I search for them intentionally because I think this will spoil all the fun.

Nonetheless, it is almost impossible to miss the amazing street art in Lisbon because of its discernible presence! I was completely blown away by the scale and creativity, and as much as I love Lisbon’s museums and galleries, I think the best contemporary Portuguese art work is to be found on the streets!

Av Fontes Pereira de Melo – Top: Erica Il Cane (Crocodile) and Lucy McLauchlan (birds); Bottom: Sam3

The ‘must-see’ destination has to be Av Fontes Pereira de Melo, where a cluster of derelict buildings is covered with giant art works created by a group of internationally-renowned street artists. When I saw the works while I was on the airport bus heading towards the city centre, I decided to make a special trip to visit the site one day.

I later found out that the project was initiated by Crono project (founded by Alexandre Farto/Vhils in 2010), which aimed to turn facades of abandoned buildings into masterpieces of contemporary art. Here are some of the artists involved in this project: Os Gemeos (Brazilian twins), Blu (Italian), Erica Il Cane (Italian), Lucy McLauchlan (British) and Sam3 (Spanish). It is necessary to stand on the other side of the street to appreciate these murals fully; unfortunately, I arrived late in the afternoon and the lighting was not ideal to capture these stunning art works.

The Amoreiras Wall – Top: Nomen, Slap and Kurts; 2nd row: Nomen; 3rd row: The Nightmare Before Christmas by Kurts, Styler, Slap

Since I spent most of time in Lisbon on foot, it subsequently enabled me to come across some of the city’s marvelous street art by chance. My second surprise came when I discovered The Amoreiras Wall of Fame, an seemingly endless wall located between Amoreiras Shopping Centre and Marquês de Pombal Square. The graffiti started in 1995, and over the years, many of the original murals being painted over. But you can still find many outstanding murals created by famous local artists. My favourite is the mural of German chancellor Angela Merkel as a puppet master, holding the Portuguese Prime Minister and the Deputy Minister on strings. This was made by Nomen, Slap and Kurtz just before her visit to Lisbon in 2012. Highly political but brilliantly depicted.

Alcântara tunnel

My third surprise came when I got off the train at Alcântara-Mar station and walked down to the underground tunnel. The last thing I expected to see was the entire tunnel covered with street art murals!

I later discovered that the project was initiated by Portuguese Association of Street Art (APAURB) as part of the regeneration of the area. About 400 local and international artists took part in this project, and I particularly like the wonderful murals of Lison’s streetscape. This project demonstrates how street art can rejuvenate even the grottiest areas or places in the cities, and I think more cities need to follow suit.

Street art in Alcântara

Venturing outside of the station, you can see a diverse array of street art including calligraffiti by Dutch graffiti legend Niels ‘Shoe’ Meulman. However, Shoe’s original black and white work has since been painted over with purple and green spray with 2 words: ‘Hium’, ‘Quê?’ (see above).

Since Lisbon is a colourful city, its street art is equally vibrant and playful. Aside from building facades, walls and underground tunnels, the city’s recycle bins are also used as canvases for street artists.

The concept was conceived by Galeria de Arte Urbana, founded in 2008 by Ines Machado as part of the regeneration plan of Bairro Alto for City Council of Lisbon. The City Council felt the need to create a site dedicated to street art, and wanted to open a dialogue with the street art community. The objective of gallery is to promote street art, and reject practices of vandalism and disrespectful actions towards other artistic works. The gallery believes that all of these artistic languages can co-exist in the urban landscape in a democratic manner, while emphasising the importance of cultural heritage preservation, conservation and restoration. I applaud Lisbon’s City Council for its open-minded attitude towards street art and graffiti; its tolerance and forward-mindset plainly put many other city councils to shame. And this applies particularly to many Asian cities where artistic expressions are regarded as vandalism, since they all compete to look as pristine and glossy as they possibly can. This image-control attitude reveals how different the paradigm of ‘democracy’ is interpreted in the Eastern and Western societies.

Walking around Lisbon, you are mostly likely to come across the ‘signatures’ of different street artists including a yellow cat by Monsieur Chat from France and a yellow pencil character ( though I am not sure who the artist is).

Street and urban art in tiles

Street art in Cascais – 3rd & 4th left: Diogo Machado; 4th right & 5th row: Easp; 5th & bottom rows: Dalaiama

In the seaside resort town of Cascais, I also discovered some intriguing street art and one of them was an odd-looking derelict house that appeared to be covered in blue and white azulejo.

Seeing it from afar, I was curious and so I walked over to have a proper look… it was then I realised that the azulejo was in fact a mural rather than ceramic tiles! This impressive work was created by a local artist Diogo Machado (also known as Add Fuel), who is well-known for his distinctive and quintessentially ‘Portuguese’ azulejo-inspired street art pieces. I have never seen anything like this before and I absolutely love it!

Other notable graffiti artists’ work in Cascais include Easp and Dalaiama (look out for the black pacman-like character with birds).

Like London, Lisbon offers many guided street tours, but I still recommend exploring on your own if time is not a constraint. It is enjoyable and full of unexpected surprises that will make you ‘see’ the city in a different light.

Manchester’s past & present

Posted on December 11, 2014 by Toothpicker

Bridgewater canal in Castlefield

Like human beings, all cities have their own characteristics, memories and energies. Having lived in several major cities at different stages of my life, I have come to realised that some cities’ energies and mine just don’t blend well (possibly to do with feng shui?). There are cities that I find inspiring and uplifting, yet there are some that I find depressing and draining. Whenever I am in a city, I’d like to play the role of an outsider (even in London), because it allows me to detach myself and observe the city and its people more objectively. I want to use my senses to perceive a city… the architecture, urban landscape, smell, pollution, colours, people’s facial expression, behaviour and fashion are all details that we can easily miss if we don’t pay attention to them.

Cities are constantly evolving, some of their histories may have been forgotten or be buried underground, but their intrinsic essence rarely changes over a short period of time or even after major disasters (e.g. New York). Most importantly though, it is the citizens who largely contribute to the collective energy of a city.

Although Manchester’s city centre is vibrant and bustling, I regard the historical Castlefield as the ‘soul’ of the city. Not only this is the birth place of the city, it is also said to be the start of the industrial revolution because of the arrival of Bridgewater Canal, the world’s first industrial canal built in 1764, commissioned by by Francis Egerton, 3rd Duke of Bridgewater.

Since I was staying in the area, I decided to stroll along the canal in the morning. The vibe was calm and subdued, very different from the hustle and bustle vibe in the centre. I was fascinated by the varied styles of railway and foot bridges here, and while standing under them, I began to imagine when this place was full of activities and working people. I could sense the history here, many untold stories seemed to be hidden underneath these massive steel bridges and old warehouses.

Another historical part of Greater Manchester is Salford on the other side of River Irwell. However, the area has suffered from high-levels of unemployment and social issues for decades, and even the recent regeneration scheme has had many setbacks. Wandering on the edge of Salford, I was surprised by the slightly rundown and quiet streets. Like Castlefield, there is a big contrast between this part of the city and the centre, but again, one could sense its historical past.

I was particularly intrigued by the facade of a historical-looking pub tucked away on a desolate back street called Eagle Inn (also known as The Lamp Oil). Later, I found out that the pub dates back to 1848 at its current site, and it is housed inside a Grade II listed building from 1903. In recent years, the pub was under-threat due to the regeneration of the area; luckily it was saved and the interior of the pub has since been restored, with the cottage next door being converted into a live music venue.

The streets surrounding the pub look rather derelict, but I found them more interesting than the glossy buildings in the centre. These derelict sites tend to capture my imagination, they trigger my curiosity about the histories and stories behind them. I once read that people’s interests in derelict or abandoned places or ruins are related to our own mortality. Perhaps so. I think we are all subconsciously (or consciously) aware that whatever possessions we own will inevitably be destroyed, lost, disintegrated or be given away one day. These places remind us that nothing will last forever.

Like humans, cities may experience prosperity and declines throughout their existence. Countless cities had been destroyed throughout history due to human destructions or natural disasters, yet many ancient cities have miraculously survived too. Cities are never static; buildings and roads are constantly being constructed or rebuilt, people come and go daily, and they all silently leave their visible or invisible imprints behind. Cities are fascinating because everything is man-made; and behind each creation, there is at least one human story to be told.

I have come across many cities that feel utterly ‘soulless’, but Manchester is certainly not one of them. And I believe it is the many human stories behind this city that make it special and enticing.