Higashiyama Walking Course in Takayama

Posted on October 2, 2018 by Toothpicker

Since my ryokan was located near the former site of Takayama Castle (Shiroyama Park), I was able to enjoy a tranquil stroll along the Higashiyama Walking Course before I left the city. Unlike the busy city centre, I hardly saw anyone as I walked past various temples and shrines, as well as woodland and cemetery. It is about three and a half kilometres starting from Ryuunji Temple to Shiroyama Park. The route reminded me of the Philospher’s Path in Kyoto, but it is much quieter and perhaps less pictureque. Nonetheless, this area was the highlight of my stay in Takayama, and I thoroughly enjoyed the nature and calmness. It was a perfect end to my short stay in Takayama.

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Kusakabe Folk Museum in Takayama

Posted on October 1, 2018 by Toothpicker

The view of the city from my room in the morning

I am not sure if it was due to the weather or flocks of tourists, but I was slightly disappointed with Takayama city centre after spending an afternoon walking around. Luckily, I woke up the next day and the clouds have cleared; the sun and blue sky completely changed my mood (and the cityscape), and I felt ready to explore the city more before leaving.

My first stop was one of Takayama’s famous morning markets, Miyagawa market, by the Miyagawa River.

Miyagawa market

The Miyagawa market is a popular tourist attraction because there are over 60 stalls as well as shops selling souvenir, local sweets, and handicrafts (esp. wood-carved items) made by local artisans. Meanwhile, there are also vegetable stalls selling local produce, and street food vendours where visitors could try out the street snacks.

Miyagawa river

After a pleasant stroll along the river and market, I spent the next hour or so at the beautiful Kusakabe Folk Museum which is located near the river. Constructed in Meiji period (1879), this house is the first merchant’s house to be designated as a National Important Cultural Treasure, along with the adjoining Yoshijima House. And in recent years, this private residence was turned into a folk museum that allow visitors to learn more about local crafts and folk art.

Kusakabe folk museum

Hida Takayama was ruled directly under Shogun Tokugawa in 1692 and for the next 176 years, the city was ruled by The Tokugawa shogunate, the last feudal Japanese military government (Edo period). Visitors to Takayama can learn more about the city’s history at the Takayama Jinya, the last surviving government house of The Tokugawa shogunate. Due to limited time, I wasn’t able to visit this house, but the Kusakabe folk museum offers an interesting insight because the Kusakabe were a family of merchants that worked for the shogunate and prospered during that period.

In 1879, after the original building was burnt down in a fire four years ago, a master builder called Jisuke Kawajiri rebuilt the house in its traditional Edo period style showcasing his exceptional craftsmanship. The house was built entirely in Japanese cypress, and the most spectacular feature of the building is the interlocking roof beams which reveal the beauy of the locally sourced Japanese red pine.

Another impressive feature is the stunning Butsudan (family Buddhist altar) which cost three hundred taels (around 10 billion yen in today’s money) to construct. The altar, along with the Kago ( the carriage of the Kusukabe bride) and the bride’s costume, were saved from the fire that destroyed the building.

Aside from the main building, there is a library at the back of the courtyard where visitors can view a variety of folkcraft from the area, including furniture, basketry and a vast collection of Hida ceramics. The small craft shop also sells many beautiful everyday objects made by local artisans.

I think this folk museum is really worth visiting for its stunning architecture and craft display. If I return to the city again, I would certainly pay a visit to the Yoshijima House nearby.

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24 hours in Hida Takayama

Posted on July 23, 2018 by Toothpicker

Stunning scenery of the mountains during the train journey to Takayama

Even though I am familiar with unpredictable weather, I wasn’t fully prepared for the fluctuation of temperatures and weather while traveling around Japan. For the first 10 days of my trip in the Kansai region, I experienced exceptional warm and sunny weather (above 25 degrees). Yet as I headed northwards, the temperature had dropped down to around 12 degrees by the time I reached Hida Takayama. Located in mountainous region in Gifu, which is known as the Japan Alps, the city has an altitude of 562 m (1844 ft), hence it is called ‘tall mountain’ in Japanese. Although I was wearing my down vest, waterproof jacket and scarf, my enthusiasm was dampened by the cold and wet weather when I arrived.

The modern-looking Takayama train station also showcases furniture made in the region

After dropping off my luggage at the Yamato luggage forwarding office near the train station (my saviour during my travels around Japan), I was craving for something hot and comforting. And so I headed into the nearby Hida noodle shop, where they specialise in handmade soba noodles, and it was exactly what I needed.

Hida noodle shop

After settling down at the ryokan, I spent the afternoon walking around the old town, which has been preserved with many buildings and streets (esp. Sannomachi Street) dating from the Edo Period (1600-1868), when the city was full of wealthy merchants. This area is also known as the “Little Kyoto”, and like Kyoto, it does get very crowded during the touristy seasons.

Hida Takayama is particularly well-known for woodblock printing, and there are a number of handicraft shops that sell souvenir featuring this technique. One local specialty is the Shin Kougei animal dolls, which are all hand-printed and hand-sewn using the traditional techniques.

Hida Print Coffee Shop Baren

And if you want to admire the woodblock prints up-close, then you can do so at the Hida Print Coffee Shop Baren while enjoying some snacks and coffee at the same time. The cafe is a bit touristy, but it is quite cosy with good ambience.

Fujii Folk Craft Museum

Slightly put off by the rain and crowds in the streets, I paid a visit to the Fujii Folk Craft Museum (Fujii Bijutsu Mingeikan) situated inside a traditional storehouse, built entirely with Japanese cypress in the Edo Manryu style. It houses a collection of 2,500 historical art and craft items amassed by Dr. Fujii, including some fascinating household items/ everyday objects.

HIDA TAKAYAMA FACTORY Dolce and Kitchen

On my way back to the ryokan, I could resist the ice cream poster outside of HIDA TAKAYAMA FACTORY Dolce and Kitchen, and I opted for a Mont blanc ice cream, which was one of the best ice creams I have had during my trip. I love eating ice cream in cold weather – I just found it immensely pleasurable!

My lodging in Hida Takayama was a traditional ryokan called Oyado Yamakyu. It is popular with tourists because it is good value and the service is friendly and accommodating. I was really impressed with the multi-course dinner (and breakfast), which was included in my room rate; the food just kept coming… until I was almost unable to move. Yet it was all fresh, delicious and healthy, so I didn’t feel too guilty after the feast.