Iceland’s Museum of Design and Applied Art

Posted on February 23, 2016 by Toothpicker

There are many museums in the centre of Reykjavik, so I am not sure how many tourists would venture out of the city to The Museum of Design and Applied Art located 6 km away from the centre. I managed to board onto the correct bus (number 1 from the City Hall bus stop), but it took me a while to find my way to the museum from the suburban bus stop because of lack of signage.

Despite its odd location, the museum is worth a visit for all design enthusiasts. As the only design museum in Iceland, its objective is to collect, study and Icelandic design and craft from 1900 to the present day. The Museum holds 4-6 exhibitions of Icelandic and international design per year. The museum’s collection comprises around 1500 objects such as furniture, product design, lighting, pottery, glass and fashion design. It is a fantastic venue to learn more about Icelandic design and its progress in the last several decades.

As expected, the style and aesthetics of Icelandic design is akin to Scandinavian design due to the Danish influence. The forms and aesthetics are simple, nature-driven, and undisputedly functional.

Although the museum is not huge, it is easy to spend over an hour here especially if you are keen to read about the stories behind the designs. Yet the highlight for me was the ‘Iceland is so ceramic’ exhibition – a retrospective of Icelandic ceramicist Steinunn Marteinsdóttir‘s works.

Steinunn Marteinsdóttir’s ceramic arts exhibition

Steinunn Marteinsdóttir‘s impressive works are inspired by the beautiful Icelandic landscape, and these elements are palpable in her vases, wall plaques, tea cups and saucers set etc. Her vast body of work bears witness to her indefatigable exploration of techniques and limits, in both material as well as formal language and decoration. It is remarkable how her styles and techniques have evolved over the years, yet the theme of nature has been consistent throughout.

The museum’s shop

Last but not least, the museum also has a shop that sells contemporary Icelandic designs and crafts. Prices are quite steep (it is Iceland after all), but if you are looking for high quality and one of a kind design objects, you will not be disappointed.

Address: Garðatorg 1, Garðabær, Iceland. (Tip: remember to print out a map before you go, otherwise, you are likely to be lost in the suburbs if you don’t have internet connection on your smartphone).

Reykjavik’s street art

Posted on February 19, 2016 by Toothpicker

Street art has become a global cultural phenomenon in the 21st century. What started as a subversive culture in the 1970s/80s New York has now evolved into a contemporary art movement.

While numerous street artists employ this medium to express their political views towards their governments and society, there are many who simply want to beautify the cities or connect with people through their aesthetically-driven work.

Top row: Painting the music by Deih; Bottom row: Australian artist Guido van Helten‘s large murals on the Loftkastalinn’ building are based on images from the screen play of Reykjavik 1961 theatre production, ‘no exit’ by Jean Paul Satre.

Before my trip to Iceland, I was rather ignorant of their art and design scene, and I was most certainly surprised to see a thriving street art scene in Reykjavik.

Like other Scandinavian countries, Iceland is often regarded as one of the ‘best’ places to live in the world. After the bankruptcy in 2008, the country has since made a miraculous financial recovery, and now the country’s economy is growing again. When compare to countries with more social or political or economical issues, I assume that the Icelandic citizens would probably have less to complain about. Well, maybe not.

Graffiti in public space was regarded as a major issue for the City of Reykjavik for years. And after the city council began to crack down on unauthorised graffiti, street artists decided to seek permission to paint on property owners’ walls or to accept commissions from businesses. And from what I saw, most of the art works now are more artistic-driven than political-driven. Yet the artistic values of these works are not to be underestimated, and they undoubtedly bring vibrancy and creativity to the city.

Reykjavik’s contemporary architecture

Posted on February 16, 2016 by Toothpicker

Harpa concert and conference centre

This is my last entry on the architecture in Reykjavik, which focuses on the contemporary buildings in the city.

The most distinguished contemporary building in Reykjavik has to be the Harpa Concert and Conference Centre, opened in 2011. Designed by Danish architecture studio Henning Larsen Architects and Icelandic studio Batteriid Architects, in collaboration with Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson, the prodigious structure is located by the eastern harbour near the city centre.

Inspired by Icelandic crystallised basalt columns, the design enables daylight to penetrate the faceted glass and create kaleidoscopic reflections of the surrounding harbour and sky. The geometric shaped glass windows remind me of the geometric patterns often found in Arabic architecture. The use of light, colour and shadow makes this building utterly fascinating, and watching sunset from the ground floor cafe through the windows was a mesmersising experience. The concert hall has received numerous awards and prizes since its opening, and deservedly so, because it is a stunning and impressive multi-functional building. I only wish that London would one day have its own world-class concert hall like this one.

Reykjavík City Hall (Ráðhús Reykjavíkur)

While I was walking around the city centre one morning, I stumbled across a postmodern concrete building by Lake Tjörnin. It was only later that I found out this bold and atypical building is the Reykjavík City Hall. Opened in 1992, the building was designed by Icelandic architecture practice Studio Granda (the team behind the Reykjavik art museum) after winning the competition for this project. The building reminds me of the architecture designed by renowned Japanese architect Tadao Ando, perhaps it is the use of concrete and water-surrounding location, which can often be seen in Ando‘s designs.

Reykjavik Maritime museum opened in 2005, and it is located by the old harbour in a renovated 1947 building that was originally built as a fish freezing plant.

Skálinn, the annex connected to the 19th century Icelandic Parliament house was designed by Batteriid Architects in 2002.

Named after the volcano Askja, Askja is a building on the campus of the University of Iceland. It was designed by architect Maggi Jónsson in 1994, but it only completed in 2001 due to lack of funding.

First & 2nd rows: The Embassy of Japan; Bottom row: the glass facade of Hilton Nordica hotel was originally built in 1965 and renovated in 2008

The multi-award winning Blue Lagoon spa was designed and built in stages by Icelandic architecture firm VA Architects from 1998-2007.

Another multi award-winning building is the Keflavik International Airport Terminal designed by Andersen & Sigurdsson Architects in 2000. It is bright, spacious, and it even has a children’s play area, which is rare to see at major international airports

It is rare to see beautiful footbridges in big cities, but the circular stainless steel Hringbraut bridge designed by Studio Granda in 2009 is one of the most impressive bridges I have come across. It also offers a panoramic view of the surrounding area.

A futuristic looking petrol station in the city centre

Contemporary housing in the city

Modernist architecture in Reykjavik

Posted on February 8, 2016 by Toothpicker

Háteigskirkja Church

Reykjavik has a vast array of modern architecture, and the Nordic design style is discernible. Walking is the ideal way to explore the city’s architecture, and I was grateful to have brought my warm snow boots.

Churches

The designs of the Icelandic churches are intriguing, and I wished that I had more time to visit more. Aside from the landmark Hallgrimskirkja church, I stumbled upon the Háteigskirkja church – an unconventional pristine white church with 2 tall steeples at the front. The church was designed by architect Halldór H. Jónsson in 1957, and it looked especially majestic against the blue sky and white snow.

Filadelfia church

Another one that caught my eye was the minimalist Filadelfia church, an evangelical church was founded in 1936. And the most striking feature of its facade is the sans serif font on top of the entrance!

Museums

Einars Jónssonar Museum

Opposite the Hallgrimskirkja church is the Einars Jónssonar Museum, which houses the works by Iceland’s first sculptor Einar Jónsson. The museum was built according to a plan by the artist in collaboration with architect Einar Erlendsson, and it officially opened in 1923. The design style has been classified as eclecticism, i.e. it drew ideas from a variety of different sources. The slightly stern-looking structure complements the Hallgrimskirkja church nearby, and I highly recommend a visit to this museum because Jónsson‘s sculptures are simply extraordinary!

The National Museum of Iceland was established in 1863, but opened its doors at its current location Suðurgata in 1950. The museum underwent extensive refurbishments and reopened in 2004 with modern facilities.

Reykjavik Art Museum: Hafnarhús, designed by Icelandic architect Sigurður Guðmundsson with harbour master Þórarinn Kristjánsson from 1933-39. The museum was renovated by the architect office Studio Granda in 1998-2000.

Ásmundarsafn (part of the Reykjavik Art Museum)

Arriving at Ásmundarsafn museum, I thought I had walked onto a Star Wars film set! The idiosyncratic former home of Icelandic sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson looked particularly surreal being surrounded by 30 large scale sculptures in its snow-covered sculpture garden.

The original part (the dome) of the building was designed by the artist himself in the years 1942-59. The architect Mannfreð Vilhjálmsson later designed the extension connecting the main building and the curved building. The concepts of the house were inspired by the Mediterranean, the round houses of the Arab world and Egypt’s pyramids.

It takes about 20 minutes to walk from city centre to the museum, but it is definitely worth visiting. Aside from the unique architecture, the serene sculpture garden, the museum also has temporary sculpture exhibitions and permanent works by Sveinsson.

Kjarvalsstaðir (part of the Reykjavik Art Museum)

Kjarvalsstaðir is located in the Miklatún park, and it was designed by Hannes Kr. Davíðsson and inaugurated in 1973. The museum is dedicated to the Icelandic painter Jóhannes Kjarval, and it exhibits the artist’s large collection of works.

The design of the building was influenced by Japanese-inspiration to Nordic modernism, with emphasis on raw natural building materials, a quality of lightness, and simplified lines throughout. Unfortunately, the museum was closed when I visited, so I did not get to see the interior of the building.

Multi-storey buildings

Interesting Modernist buildings can be seen everywhere in the city, I especially like the Valhöll building (top two rows)

Go green

Reykjavik is full of colourful buildings, and green is on the top of their list

Private homes

Modernist houses

Guðjón Samúelsson’s Modernist architecture in Reykjavik

Posted on February 4, 2016 by Toothpicker

Hallgrímskirkja church in the centre of Reykjavik

If you visit Reykjavik, then it is impossible to miss its prominent landmark church – Hallgrímskirkja. At 73 metres (244 ft), it is the largest church in Iceland and the sixth tallest architectural structure in Iceland. Designed in 1937 by Guðjón Samúelsson (1887 – 1950), the State Architect of Iceland at the time, the construction work took 41 years to complete. Unfortunately, the architect did not live to see its completion, and the work was completed by succeeding architects Hörður Bjarnason and Garðar Halldórsson.

The controversial design of this church was said to be inspired by the Icelandic geology – the lava turned basalt columns at Svartifoss, and it is spectacular when you look up from the entrance. The interior of the church is fairly minimal, except for a gargantuan pipe organ desigAned and constructed by the German organ builder Johannes Klais of Bonn. You can also take the lift (there is an entrance fee) up to the top of the tower, where you can enjoy a panoramic view of the city.

Samúelsson followed his father’s profession in architecture and received his education in Denmark. Influenced by modernism, his work feature an array of architectural styles including Art Deco, Neo-Classicalism, Functionalism and National Romanticism. Samúelsson was appointed as the State architect (the first and last person for this title) in 1924, and he was responsible for many buildings that can still be seen in the centre of Reykjavik today.

The National Gallery of Iceland – A minimal neoclassical/modern style building built in 1916

Once the largest building in Reykjavik is now the Apotek Hotel (Austurstræti 16). Built in 1916/1917, it was influenced by Art Nouveau and Nationalist Romanticism and ornated with statues by Einar Jónsson. The building used to house the notable Reykjavíkurapótek (Reykjavik Apothecary) in 1930. Samúelsson also designed the building next door (Austurstræti 11) in 1924, which houses the Landsbankinn, and you can still admire the bank’s art deco interior today.

Top: statues by Einar Jónsson at Austurstræti 16; Bottom two rows: Landsbankinn’s art deco interior

The stunning art deco National theatre of Iceland was designed by Samúelsson in 1928, but only opened in 1950.

Another art deco building: The University of Iceland (1940)

Other notable Samúelsson architecture in the city centre include Hotel Borg (1930), Landakotskirkja (1929) and Swimming hall/ Sundhöllin (1937).

Nostalgia for the Icelandic sky

Posted on January 28, 2016 by Toothpicker

Sunrise in Reykjvik

One of my favourite documentaries of all time is Chilean documentary film director Patricio Guzmán’s ‘Nostalgia for the light’. The poignant, insightful and stunningly beautiful film was set in Chile’s Atacama Desert, and it is a meditation on life, history and the universe. The film touched me on many levels, but I was notably struck by the film’s cinematography. I was utterly mesmerised by beauty of the Chilean sky and desert.

On my recent visit to Iceland, the sublime and awe-inspiring nature not only reminded me of the film, it also made me appreciate the grandeur of our mother earth and the universe. The Icelandic sky in particular has stayed in my mind since my return, I simply cannot forget the serene and unpolluted sky.

Top row: Hallgrímskirkja church; Bottm: Hateigskirkja church

Looking at the photos, it would difficult to guess the time of day (except for the night shots) when these photos were taken. In January, sunrise starts around 9.30 am and the sun sets begins at 4.30 pm. The sun remains low near the horizon throughout the day, hence even photos taken in the mornings and afternoons resemble sunsets in the UK.

I regret immensely for not bringing my watercolour set, because I was yearning to record the sky colours throughout the day while I was traveling on the road for three days. Pale blue and pink, blue and orange, violet and shades of blue… oh, how I wanted to record these colour combinations! I don’t think the camera did it justice, because what I perceived or experienced was far more vivid than what was captured.

Last 2 rows: Seljalandsfoss waterfall

Although we had sunshine and clear sky during the day, we were slightly unlucky with the weather in the evenings. The clouds blocked our encounters with aurora borealis (i.e. northern lights), and we only saw a glimpse of it when we were returning from the southern coast back to Reykjavik one evening.

2nd, 4th & 5th rows: Jokulsarlon Glacial Lagoon; last row: Skaftafell Nature Reserve

Yes, we saw faint green lights behind the clouds, but that was it. It was nothing like the photographs we often see when the entire sky is green. It was slightly disappointing, but it also provided me the incentive to return to Iceland again.

A glimpse of the northern lights

I was lucky to have traveled extensively throughout my life, but I have never felt as exhilarated as I did in Iceland. It was the connection with mother nature that had a profound impact on me. Seeing nature as it is, with least human interventions, can be quite startling for city dwellers.

A view of full moon from the plane window

Still enthralled by what I saw and experienced in Iceland, I reluctantly boarded onto the plane back to London. Yet another natural phenomenon appeared right in front of me – an unobstructed and bright full moon in a distance from my window seat. At this point, I was simply grateful to be alive, and to witness the sublime beauty of the universe.

Human beings are so insignificant in compare to mother nature, and we have to do our best to protect it rather than destroy it. However, I fear that it may be too late already, and mother nature has started to retaliate against mankind’s perpetual destruction on the environment. The recent erratic weather patterns around the world is a wake-up call, and if we continue to ignore it, the consequences will be irreversible. And this time, I am on nature’s side.

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Tag Archives: Iceland

Iceland’s Museum of Design and Applied Art

Reykjavik’s street art

Reykjavik’s contemporary architecture

Modernist architecture in Reykjavik

Guðjón Samúelsson’s Modernist architecture in Reykjavik