Manchester’s past & present

Posted on December 11, 2014 by Toothpicker

Bridgewater canal in Castlefield

Like human beings, all cities have their own characteristics, memories and energies. Having lived in several major cities at different stages of my life, I have come to realised that some cities’ energies and mine just don’t blend well (possibly to do with feng shui?). There are cities that I find inspiring and uplifting, yet there are some that I find depressing and draining. Whenever I am in a city, I’d like to play the role of an outsider (even in London), because it allows me to detach myself and observe the city and its people more objectively. I want to use my senses to perceive a city… the architecture, urban landscape, smell, pollution, colours, people’s facial expression, behaviour and fashion are all details that we can easily miss if we don’t pay attention to them.

Cities are constantly evolving, some of their histories may have been forgotten or be buried underground, but their intrinsic essence rarely changes over a short period of time or even after major disasters (e.g. New York). Most importantly though, it is the citizens who largely contribute to the collective energy of a city.

Although Manchester’s city centre is vibrant and bustling, I regard the historical Castlefield as the ‘soul’ of the city. Not only this is the birth place of the city, it is also said to be the start of the industrial revolution because of the arrival of Bridgewater Canal, the world’s first industrial canal built in 1764, commissioned by by Francis Egerton, 3rd Duke of Bridgewater.

Since I was staying in the area, I decided to stroll along the canal in the morning. The vibe was calm and subdued, very different from the hustle and bustle vibe in the centre. I was fascinated by the varied styles of railway and foot bridges here, and while standing under them, I began to imagine when this place was full of activities and working people. I could sense the history here, many untold stories seemed to be hidden underneath these massive steel bridges and old warehouses.

Another historical part of Greater Manchester is Salford on the other side of River Irwell. However, the area has suffered from high-levels of unemployment and social issues for decades, and even the recent regeneration scheme has had many setbacks. Wandering on the edge of Salford, I was surprised by the slightly rundown and quiet streets. Like Castlefield, there is a big contrast between this part of the city and the centre, but again, one could sense its historical past.

I was particularly intrigued by the facade of a historical-looking pub tucked away on a desolate back street called Eagle Inn (also known as The Lamp Oil). Later, I found out that the pub dates back to 1848 at its current site, and it is housed inside a Grade II listed building from 1903. In recent years, the pub was under-threat due to the regeneration of the area; luckily it was saved and the interior of the pub has since been restored, with the cottage next door being converted into a live music venue.

The streets surrounding the pub look rather derelict, but I found them more interesting than the glossy buildings in the centre. These derelict sites tend to capture my imagination, they trigger my curiosity about the histories and stories behind them. I once read that people’s interests in derelict or abandoned places or ruins are related to our own mortality. Perhaps so. I think we are all subconsciously (or consciously) aware that whatever possessions we own will inevitably be destroyed, lost, disintegrated or be given away one day. These places remind us that nothing will last forever.

Like humans, cities may experience prosperity and declines throughout their existence. Countless cities had been destroyed throughout history due to human destructions or natural disasters, yet many ancient cities have miraculously survived too. Cities are never static; buildings and roads are constantly being constructed or rebuilt, people come and go daily, and they all silently leave their visible or invisible imprints behind. Cities are fascinating because everything is man-made; and behind each creation, there is at least one human story to be told.

I have come across many cities that feel utterly ‘soulless’, but Manchester is certainly not one of them. And I believe it is the many human stories behind this city that make it special and enticing.

Street art in Manchester

36 hours in Manchester

Posted on December 4, 2014 by Toothpicker

The historical Castlefield is a conservation area

Whenever independent travelers arrive in an unfamiliar city, the first hurdle that they have to overcome is the initial disorientation stage. Although Manchester is much smaller than London in size, it was still a bit daunting arriving at a station full of busy commuters. Luckily, I found the free metroshuttle (fantastic idea) bus stop outside of the station and took advantage of these buses as much as I could during my stay! Yet I always find that the best way to see a city is on foot, which also helps me to find a sense of direction.

Since I only had about 36 hours in the city, I tried to squeeze in as much as I could before the museums and galleries close at 5pm. I also downloaded a few Manchester apps as guidance, but the one that I love is Manchester Time Machine (for iphone & ipad only). This app was developed by Manchester Metropolitan University featuring an extensive rare historical footage of Manchester from the North West Film Archive. Its GPS technology allows users to pinpoint a location and watch film relating to it. It is absolutely fascinating to see how the city looked from the past vs the present day. An impressive and innovative app!

The site of a Roman fort in Castlefield

I was staying in Castlefield, a conservation area that is listed as the world’s first urban heritage park. This area is not only the birth place of Manchester, it is also home to the world’s first industrial canal built in 1764, and the world’s first railway station built in 1830. There is also the remains of a Roman fort founded in AD 79, and its name Mamucium eventually evolved into the name ‘Manchester’.

Architecture

It is hard to miss the huge contrast between the old and the contemporary architecture in Manchester. Before the trip, I didn’t realise that contemporary architecture is so prominent in the city, and was surprise to see the diverse range of architectural styles within the city.

Top right: The Art deco House of Fraser building (also known as the Kendal, Milne & Co. Building) was designed in by Louis David Blanc in 1938; Main: Aldine House/ Riverside was designed by Leach Rhodes Walker in 1967.

The regeneration of the city centre was a result of the IRA bombing in 1996. The centrepiece of the project was the glossy Urbis building (now the National Football museum) built in 2002 by a local architect Ian Simpson, who was also responsible for No.1 Deansgate, UK’s tallest residential block completed in the same year. It is impossible to miss the architect’s slightly imposing buildings while walking around the city esp. the Beetham Tower, which is the tallest skyscraper in Manchester completed in 2006.

Top left & 2nd row: Manchester Civil Justice Centre; Top middle: No.1. Deansgate; Top right: Beetham Tower; 3rd & 5th left: Urbis/National Football Museum; 3rd middle & 4th row: 1 The Avenue

Personally, I am more fond of the distinctive and intriguing Manchester Civil Justice Centre designed by Australian architecture firm, Denton Corker Marshall in 2007. The building has received many awards for its sustainability credentials and innovative engineering design, and was shortlisted for the RIBA‘s Stirling Prize in 2008. Another interesting and award-winning building is The Avenue (for retail and business) designed by Sheppard Robson in 2010, situated next to the historical John Ryland Library.

Due to time constraint, I did not have time to visit Imperial War Museum North, which was designed by Polish architect Daniel Libeskind in 2002. It will certainly be on my list when I next visit the city.

Art & design exhibitions

Probably one of the must-see attractions in Manchester is the Manchester Art Gallery (free admission). Although the gallery is not huge, it would still take at least 2 hours to wander and enjoy the exhibitions. The current exhibitions include “The Sensory War 1914-2014” (until 22nd February 2015) and “AZ.andreazappa” (until 22nd March 2015), which showcases photographic dresses designed by by Manchester-based media and textile artist Andrea Zapp.

Manchester Art Gallery – Top right: Antony Gormley’s sculpture; 2nd row right: Work by Banksy; 3rd row: Andrea Zappa’s exhibition; 4th left: Piccadilly Gardens (1954) by LS Lowry; 4th right: Work by Roy Lichtenstein; 5th row: The Sensory War 1914-2014; Bottom row: Kathe Kollwitz’s prints

“The Sensory War 1914-2014” is an excellent and thought-provoking exhibition marking the Centenary of the First World War. The show examines how artists from 1914 onwards depicted the devastating impact of new military technologies utilised in a century of conflict beginning with the First World War. One of the most harrowing sections is a series of photographs showing disfigured or disabled soldiers returning home from war. I was particularly saddened by Nina Berman‘s “Marine wedding” and the tragic story of Marine Sgt. Tyler Ziegel.

Another section shows work created in the 1970s by the hibakusha, survivors of the Hiroshima atomic bombing. Many of the pieces are simple drawings, but they illustrate the horrors of war in the most direct manner. Yet my favourite at this exhibition is the profound prints created by German painter, printmaker, and sculptor Kathe Kollwitz. It is hard not to be touched by the sorrow, despair, suffering and humanity seen in her work, which addresses mortality, poverty and the fragility of life.

People’s History Museum

Another gem in the city is the People’s History Museum (free admission), the only museum in the country dedicated to the history of British working people in the last 200 years. The museum was refurbished and reopened in 2010, and it is situated in a Grade II listed building that used to be a hydraulic pumping station.

This is a fascinating museum full of historical objects, photographs, printed materials and documents about the struggle for equality and democracy of the working class people. The current exhibition, “A Land Fit For Heroes: War and the working class 1914-1918” (until 1st Feb 2015) examines how World War I changed society, radically altering the social, economic, cultural and political outlook of the British people. Although the subject matter of the exhibition and museum seems heavy, the curator have done a brilliant job in making the exhibits captivating, playful and yet informative at the same time.

Museum of Science and Industry – Last 3 rows: 3D: Printing the future exhibition; Wellcome Image Awards 2014 exhibition & the industrial looking cafe

As I mentioned in the previous entry, Museum of Science and Industry (free admission) is a ‘dangerous’ place as it brought out my inner geekiness. I am sure I can a day here admiring the beautiful old machine tools and engines, which I am sure many would consider as rather odd. A few hours here is definitely not enough, and reluctantly I had to skip the Power Hall and the Air & Space Hall.

The extensive displays are divided into the following theme: Industry & Innovation, Science & Technology, Energy, Transport, People and Communications. The historical backdrop provides context for the displays, and at times, it made me feel as if I were transported back in time.

There are many exhibitions taking place at the moment including: “3D printing the future” (until 19th April) and “Wellcome Image Award 2014” (until 14th Dec). If you want to learn about Manchester’s industrial past, then do not miss this interesting and educational museum.

Shops & cafes

Since it is close to Christmas, there are many Christmas markets scattered in different parts of the centre. But the trendiest part of the city is the Northern Quarter, which is home to the creative industries, independent shops, cafes, restaurants and bars.

The one-stop craft and design shopping destination is the Manchester Craft and Design Centre (17 Oak St) housed inside a Victorian former fish and poultry market building. It is home to 30 resident artists & makers who design, create and make a variety of handmade products, from textiles and ceramics to pewter and paint. It was a joy for me to see the craft and design scene thriving outside of London and that local designers and makers are being supported by the local council.

Top: Manchester Christmas markets; 2nd row: A window display of hats; 3rd and 4th rows: Manchester crafts and design centre; Bottom row: A building in the Northern Quarter

Not far from the centre is the Centre for Contemporary Chinese art (Market Buildings, 13 Thomas St), where you can find artworks by contemporary Chinese artists, but there is also a shop that sells books on contemporary Chinese art, as well as a range of jewellery, stationery and gifts designed by local Chinese artists and designers.

Top left: Playhouse exhibition at Cornerhouse; Top middle, right & 2nd row: Fig and Sparrow; 3rd row: Jewellery at Centre for Chinese Contemporary Art; 4th & 5th rows: Sugar Junction

Another cool design and craft shop in the area is Fig and Sparrow (20 Oldham Street); not only does it sells stationery and unusual homeware made by local designers, it also has a cafe offering locally-sourced coffee and handmade cakes.

I stumbled upon Sugar Junction tearoom (60 Tib Street) and was attracted by its retro but homey decor. I love their in-the-book menu, and when I saw the vintage cocktail & cake set, it got me quite excited! I ordered the courgette & lime cake with an expresso martini, it was nice but slightly too sweet for my palate (but then again, I don’t really have a sweet tooth). The place is cosy and very friendly, so I would highly recommend it especially if you have a sweet tooth!

Back in the centre, I also enjoyed relaxing at the bar/cafe inside Cornerhouse (70 Oxford Street), a centre for contemporary visual arts and independent film. The centre has three floors of art galleries, three cinemas, a bookshop and a cafe/bar. As a fan of the French director Jacques Tati, I was hoping to catch the centre’s final exhibition, “Playtime” (until 15th Mar 2015) before they move to a new location next year, but unfortunately, I was there a few days ahead of its opening! The exhibition is inspired by Tati’s 1967 comedy masterpiece Playtime, and like the film, nine artists use comedy, space and sound to encourage exploration and play in the galleries. It sounds like a fun and interactive exhibition, such a shame that I couldn’t see it before my departure.

Manchester at night

Overall, I was impressed by how much Manchester has changed over the years, and on the way back to London, I could stop thinking how over-inflated and over-rated London has become! But what touched me the most was the friendly people whom I encountered during my short stay. Over the past decade or so, London has transformed so much that it is almost unrecognisable. Not only it has become the most expensive place to live on the planet, it has also become one of least friendly cities (after Moscow and Paris). The Mayor can go on promoting London as the best place to live to rich foreign property investors, but I am not sure how long this can sustain before things come crushing down.

It is no wonder many Londoners are leaving the city to live elsewhere in the U.K. If you are one of those, then perhaps you can add the vibrant and friendly Manchester onto your list?

Asia Triennial Manchester 2014

Posted on November 25, 2014 by Toothpicker

I visited Manchester once when I was at university when my friends and I drove to the city and spent half a day there. I don’t recall much except for traffic jams and gloominess; needless to say, I was not particularly impressed. Yet when I found out about the Asia Triennial Manchester this autumn (27th Sept – 23rd November), I was curious and wanted to visit the city again, properly.

I have never heard of the Asia Triennial before, but I was intrigued by what I saw via the media. However, with work getting busier, I only booked one night there, which I later regretted. With only 36 hours in the city, I decided to plan ahead and so I emailed the event’s PR for more information. Catherine was very helpful and emailed me the event brochures and press releases before my trip. Although there are ongoing events and activities (including symposium, film programme and open studios etc) throughout the triennial, most of them had already taken placed as the festival was coming to a close.

One of the main events at the Triennial was “Harmonious Society” exhibition curated by Centre for Contemporary Chinese art. The exhibition re-examined the ‘conflicts’ and ‘harmony’ of China and that of Asia and the world. The Chinese title of the exhibition can be translated as: ‘Nothing (has happened) under the heavens’, which is derived from the current socio-economic vision and political proposition of China’s regime since 2005.

The project invited 30 artists from Mainland China, Taiwan and Hong Kong to develop artistic responses that are specially commissioned and site-specific. It took place in six venues across the city centre, though unfortunately one of the main sites, Artwork was closed while I was there.

At the Manchester Cathedral – Top right: Li Wei’s “A decorative thing”; Main: Zheng Guogu’s “Brain Lines”

I didn’t know what to expect before my trip, but I was expecting the weather to be cold, grey and wet. Instead, I left the cold, wet and grey London behind and arrived to find blue sky, sun and warmer weather, whcih took me by surprise and made my trip even more pleasant!

At the historical Manchester Cathedral, Chinese artsist Zheng Guogu‘s “Brain Lines” consists of 13 freestanding light boxes, representing the 12 Apostles and Jesus. The work explores the fine line between faith and science, visually representing the connections both within the brain and between Jesus and the 12 Apostles.

Another piece of work nearby “A decorative thing” is created by another Chinese artist Li Wei. The mirror sculpture is a response to the Cathedral’s Gothic architecture, and its frame is adorned with animals and fantastical hybrid creatures. This provides a literal reflection on humanity, evolution, scientific and religious beliefs.

The John Rylands Library – 2nd row right & 3rd row middle: Samson Young‘s “Muted Situations”; 3rd row right: Zhao Yao‘s ” Wonderlands”; 5th row left: Annie Lai Kuen Wan‘s “Lost in Biliterate and trilingual”; 5th row right: Wang Yuyang‘s “Breathing books”

I have visited many libraries in the world, but I never knew that one of the most spectacular libraries in the world is situated in Manchester! The neo-Gothic Grade I listed John Rylands Library was built as a memorial to her husband by Mrs John Rylands. She commissioned Basil Champneys to design the building, which took 10 years to complete and was opened to the public in 1900. In 2007, a £17 million extension project was completed, offering modern facilities and better accessibility.

Several artists’ work could be found in various locations within the library including: Wang Yuyang‘s “Breathing books”, Zhao Yao‘s ” Wonderlands”, Annie Lai Kuen Wan‘s “Lost in Biliterate and trilingual”, Samson Young‘s “Muted Situations” and Jin Feng‘s “Chinese plates”.

In the middle of the spectacular reading room, there was a pile of books on a table, and they turned out to be an installation by Chinese artists Wang Yuyang. I inspected the seemingly ordinary books up-close, and suddenly the books started to move in slow, breathing motion! Elsewhere, there was a display of 18 white ceramic books created by Hong Kong ceramic artist Annie Lai. These white books are moulded from various bilingual dictionaries, and yet they have no text and cannot be opened, thus, transforming the purpose of dictionaries. I was also intrigued by Hong Kong composer and sound artist Samson Young’s video installations (the videos are available to watch via his weblink above) of various sonic situations. The work explores sound layer, where foreground sounds are consciously muted or suppressed, and as a result the less-commonly-noticed layers are revealed (this work echoes John Cage‘s famous piece, 4’33”), challenging the viewers/listeners’ expectations and assumptions on images and sounds.

National Football Museum – Top: Yang Zhengzhong’s “Long live the Great Union”

At the National Football Museum, one of the exhibition floor was closed and so I didn’t see some of the exhibits except for Chinese artist Yang Zhenzhong‘s “Long live the Great Union“. From the side, the 3-D architectural installation of Tiananmen Square are seen as 9 separate pieces. But from one viewpoint through a hole, the architecture is ‘reassembled’ in front of the viewer’s eyes. A clever and playful installation that coincides with the ‘harmonious’ theme of the exhibition.

Museum of Science and Industry – 3rd row: Luxury Logico’s “Solar, Manchestr”; 4th & 5th row: Chen Chieh-Jen’s “Realm of Reverberations”

The Museum of Science and industry is another wonderful discovery during my stay in Manchester. I spent hours here, and I would have stayed longer if it wasn’t for the tight schedule! I have always had a strange fascination with old industrial machines, aesthetically and mechanically (perhaps I am geekier than I realised). At the museum, I felt like a kid in a candy store because the museum is full of beautiful machinery! The museum is huge, and it is composed of several buildings including two Grade I listed buildings: the world’s first railway station, Manchester Liverpool Road and 1830 warehouse.

One unmissable outdoor installation was “Solar, Manchester” created by Taiwanese artists group, Luxury Logico. Specifically constructed for the exhibition, this installation is composed of over 100 reclaimed street lamps from Greater Manchester and are refitted with LEDs to create an artificial sun. The ‘glowing’ sun, symbolising hope and optimism about a high-tech and sustainable future, could be seen by passerby from afar after dark.

Elsewhere at the museum, exhibits included: Hong Kong artist Lee Kit‘s ” I don’t owe you anything” and four Taiwanese artists: Chang Huei-Ming‘s “The last rose”, Kao Jun-Honn‘s “Malan girl”, Yao Jui-Chung‘s “Long, Long live” and Chen Chieh-Jen‘s “Realm of Reverberations”

I was especially touched by international renowned artist Chen Chieh-Jen’s subdued “Realm of Reverberations”, consisted of four video works of Taiwan’s first leprosy hospital, Losheng Sanatorium, established in 1929 during the period of Japanese colonisation. The government’s decision to demolish the building and relocate the sanatorium in 1994 for the expansion of the metro system caused outcry and protest amongst the locals because many of the residents had lived there their entire lives. Chen Chieh-Jen’s daunting and powerful videos act as photographed cinema, documenting the eradication of memories, history and ‘home’ (now a ruins) to a vulnerable group of elderly and disabled victims. His works capture the pain and isolation of these victims, and highlight the issues of marginalisation and inequality in our consumer society today.

This exhibition is currently exhibiting in Paris at Galerie Olivier Robert (5 Rue des Haudriettes, 75003 Paris) until 13th December.

Centre for Chinese Contemporary Art – Top right, 2nd & bottom row left: Pak Sheung Chuen’s “Resenting Hong Kong series”; Bottom right: Liu Xiaodong’s “In between Israel and Palestine”

It is interesting that the only art organisation in the UK dedicated to contemporary Chinese art is based in Manchester and not London. The Centre for Chinese Contemporary Art has been exploring Chinese contemporary art and visual culture for 28 years through innovative programme of exhibitions, residencies, projects, festivals, symposia and events etc.

At the centre, two Chinese artists responded very differently to the theme. In gallery 1, Chinese artist Liu Xiaodong presented “In Between Israel and Palestine”, a collection of realist paintings, accompanied by video diary and journal excerpts from his one month stay in Tel Aviv and the Holy Land. The artist is known for his documentations of social issues in China through his carefully orchestrated compositions in his work. In this case, everyday life in Israel and Palestine is depicted in a diptych format, which acts as a visual conveyance of the divide in the region.

In Gallery 2, Hong Kong conceptual artist Pak Sheung Chuen explores identity and historical significance in “Resenting Hong Kong series: Resenting my own history”. This exhibition is particularly timely because of what has been happening with the ‘Umbrella revolution’ in Hong Kong recently.

In this project, the artist invited Hong Kong people to donate HKD $1 coins with Queen Elizabeth II’s profile (still found in circulation sometimes) and to stipulate someone in the U.K. to scrape away this profile on the ground. This action separates Hong Kongers and the British, previously connected by the two sides of the coin, and leaves a mark on the ground in the U.K. Some of the coins are assembled into a mirror, creating a moment of reflection on the past and future. During the exhibition period, visitors were also encouraged to participate in this on-going project.

Kashif Nadim Chaudry’s “Swags and Tails”

At the Manchester Craft and Design Centre, Nottingham-based British Muslim artist Kashif Nadim Chaudry is showcasing artwork featuring skulls and stitches at his third solo exhibition, “Swags and Tails” (until 31 January 2015) as part of the festival.

The exhibition explores family traditions, religion, sexuality and politics. Chaudry mixes traditional craft techniques with conceptual, sculptural forms, using unusual and challenging materials. As a gay Muslim, Chaudry is outspoken about his identity and constantly uses his artistic work to push boundaries in relation to his sexuality and religion. Insider the former Victorian fish market, visitors can view Chaudry‘s haunting, beautiful, and skillful pieces installed in various areas within the venue.

Due to time constraint, I was not able to visit all the venues that took part at the festival, but I was glad to have visited the main venues within the city centre. Now I will have to wait three years for the next festival, but hopefully I will be more prepared and have more time to wander (without rushing) next time!

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Tag Archives: Manchester

Manchester’s past & present

36 hours in Manchester

Asia Triennial Manchester 2014