Faces of Myanmar

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A young girl in Bagan

 

When I travel, what interests me most is not the sights but the people. I enjoy take photographs of people, especially children. Myanmar is a diverse country with 135 distinct ethnic groups, so not only does the scenery changes as you travel around, but the ethnicities of the people you encounter are likely to differ too. And like most countries, the friendliest people we met were in villages and not in the touristy areas or somewhere recommended by the guidebooks.

Since 89% of the population is Buddhists, it is easy to spot monks and nuns walking along the streets or conducting alms arounds. Our visit to a nunnery was fascinating, but the joyous moment happened when we encountered a group of young nuns and monks playing at The National Kandawgyi Botanical Gardens. They were incredibly cute and funny, and watching them trying to do somersaults or outdo each other was the highlight of our day.

 

Children

 

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dsc_0021-min  burmese children

burmese child

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burmese child

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burmese childen  burmese childen

burmese childen

burmese childen

burmese childen

 

Families, communities & villagers

 

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burmese family 

burmese family

burma

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villagers

villager

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Souvenir sellers & workers

 

burmese boy  burmese people

airport workers

burmese roof worker

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lake rower

gardener

 

Tribal groups around Inle lake

 

inle lake

inle lake fishermen

inle lake fishermen

inle lake farmers

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inle lake villager

inle lake villager

inle lake villager

long necked tribal woman  inle lake villager

inle lake villager

kayaker

burmese costume

 

Monks

 

burmese monks

burmese monks

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burmese monks

burmese monk  burmese monk

burmese monks

burmese monk

burmese monks

burmese monk  burmese monks

burmese monks

burmese monks

 

Nuns

 

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burmese monks and nuns

burmese nuns

burmese nuns

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burmese nuns

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Animals

 

animals

horse cart

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dog  burmese dogs

 

City people (& cockerel) in Mandalay & Yangon

 

burmese man

mandalay

burmese woman  burmese family

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burmese footballers

burmese girls

burmese women

burmese children

coffee melody  coffee drinks

yangon

yangon post office

yangon

yangon

 

Berlin

Berlin  berlin

 

While many people dislike metropolises for their high density, fast pace, congestion, noise level, pollution, rudeness, and high property prices etc; Berlin, however, seems to be an exception because it still retains an unpretentious charm of a smaller city.

The city is relatively cheap (compare to London and other mega cities), it is also spacious, less crowded, friendly, and laid back. In my opinion, Berlin is cooler than London, New York and Paris, which probably explains why many young Londoners have moved to the city in recent years.

London used to be cool and full of character, but now it is ruled by property developers, corporate companies, mega rich foreigners, and wannabe hipsters. Not only it is over-crowded and expensive; homogeneity is making the city commercial, dull and uninspiring. All the independent shops l used to love have disappeared, and now the streets of central London are mostly occupied by chained shops and restaurants.

 

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berlin

berlin

berlin

berlin

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berlin

berlin

berlin

berlin  berlin

 

Being in Berlin, I was reminded of the London a long long time ago – when independent shops and street markets thrived, and when everything was at a slower pace. I could wander around the city centre and visit museums without feeling crammed. Cycling is safer and easier, and there is a vast amount of green space as well. From what I saw, Berlin seems to offer a better quality of life than London, so it is easy to understand why the city is a magnet for new start-ups, and people working in the arts and creative industries.

 

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berlin  Berlin

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berlin wall  berlin

berlin

berlin  berlin

berlin

 

The creative and artistic energy in Berlin is palpable. Yet what I like about Berlin is that its past is very much in the present. There is so much history here, and part of it was rather atrocious to say the least. But Berliners didn’t try to wipe away the horrors of the past, instead they chose to deal with it in an open, contemplative and positive way. I think it demonstrates the attitude of the Berliners, and this is something that I admire.

 

strawberry hut berlin

phone box berlin  berlin traffic lights

biscuit truck berlin

berlin road sign  berlin

berlin road sign  berlin  berlin sign

 

Another intriguing thing about Berlin is the divide between the East and West. Twenty-seven years after reunification of the two parts, there is still an significant disparity between the two. West Berlin is notably richer, with historic monuments, elegant buildings and leafy neighbourhoods; whereas East Berlin is edgier, grimmer, poorer and more rundown. As much as I like the upscale West side, I find the East side cooler and more interesting.

 

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berlin

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berlin  berlin

berlin

 

Despite being in the design industry, trendy and cool places don’t appeal to me much; I have always been drawn to traditional/ quirky/ secluded places. In Berlin, I like the classic Viennese-style Cafe Einstein, the atmospheric Diener Tattersall, the retro music/dance hall Claerchens Ballhaus, the the iconic and old-school Delicatessen Rogacki (their fish soup is fab), and the relaxed and unpretentious English Theatre Berlin.

 

english theatre berlin

rogacki

rogacki

cafe einstein berlin

Diener Tattersall

Claerchens Ballhaus

Top row: English theatre Berlin; 2nd & 3rd rows: Rogacki deli; 4th row: Cafe Einstein; 5th row: Diener Tattersall; bottom row: Claerchens Ballhaus

 

berlin

berlin  berlin woman

couple in berlin

berlin  berlin

berlin

 

But like most wealthier Western countries, Berlin has been struggling with homelessness and many of the homeless are from Eastern Europe. They camp in parks and sleep under railway bridges, and it is hard to miss them when you walk around the city. I cannot imagine how these people would cope in the bitterly cold winters sleeping rough in the streets. It bothers me to see wealthy countries like Germany, France, Belgium, the Netherlands and the U.K. not being able to tackle this growing crisis. Is this the price we have to pay for our capitalist society? Apparently, Finland is the only country in the E.U. that has seen a decline in homelessness in recent years. The country has implemented long term plans to offer affordable rental accommodation to people who have difficulties in finding a home for themselves. If other E.U. countries could follow what Finland has achieved, then perhaps we would see a transformation of the streets across Europe.

 

homeless berlin

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homeless berlin

homeless berlin

Homelessness and alcoholism in Berlin

 

Save

Stoke on Trent’s vanishing kilns, craft and economy

Gladstone pottery museun

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Top: The grade II* listed Gladstone Pottery Museum where visitors can learn about city’s pottery history and manufacturing processes; Bottom 2 rows: The city is full of abandoned pottery factories, kilns and chimneys

 

Last year, I visited The Asia Triennial in Manchester, and I was pleasantly surprised by the how the city has evolved since my last visit back in the early 90s. The city has also been named the most liveable place in the UK according to the Global Liveability Survey – beating London for the second time.

This year, after my 2 day visit in Stoke on Trent, I left the city feeling rather depressed, appalled and agitated. Unlike Manchester, Stoke on Trent exposes the uneven distribution of wealth in this country; and how the government has neglected many parts of the country that urgently require regeneration and economic support.

 

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Top row: Hanley park; Bottom left: The grade II* listed train station; Bottom right: The city’s typical terraced houses

 

In its heyday, about 4,000 bottle kilns dominated the city’s skyline, now only 47 (listed) are left standing. Walking around the city, one can’t fail to notice the abandoned factories, kilns and chimneys that once played a vital role in city’s development and economy.

In the 1980s and 90s, Stoke-on-Trent was hit hard by the decline in the British manufacturing sector; and as a result, many factories closed down or moved overseas, leaving a sharp rise in unemployment in the ‘high-skilled but low-paid’ sector. Although in recent years, there has been a revival in the city’s pottery industry, with ceramic exports have rising by 36 percent between 2009 and 2014, the road to recovery may still take some time.

 

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 The city’s mishmash architectural styles

 

Last year, the city made headline news when Stoke-on-Trent City Council put 33 derelict properties on the market for a pound each in a desperate attempt to clean up the area. The ‘Clusters of Empty Homes Programme (£1 home scheme)’ was a bold and unconventional idea, and it seemed to have paid off when thousands applied for them. Yet despite all the positive press coverage of the city’s ‘renaissance’, I was not entirely convinced when I was walking around the city on a weekday afternoon.

 

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The city’s Art Deco, Brutalist and contemporary architecture

 

Lack of urban planning is only one of the issues in this city. The mishmash architectural styles – not in a positive eclectic way – reveal the incoherency of city planning, hence you can find architectural styles from all eras in one street. I find it bewildering that unnecessary regeneration (and social cleansing) is constantly taking place in parts of London that erase its local identity; whereas cities like Stoke on Trent would probably benefit more from it than a wealthy and over-developed city like London.

 

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The ‘Cultural district’ is the least cultural place I have ever visited

 

On paper, the cultural quarter sounds exciting, but in reality, I saw nothing related to ‘culture’ except for a street art piece and hand-written tourist information on a disused shop window panels. Many of the shops in this quarter are derelict, while the ones that remain open are chained stores like Waterstones and TK Maxx.

There were teenage ‘hoodies’ hanging out in the streets, and older guys drinking outside of the pubs looking as if they have been there for days! Even the sun couldn’t lighten up the grim and dismal atmosphere in the city centre, and I was desperate to get out.

 

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‘Emptiness’ in Stoke on Trent’s city centre

 

I did some research on the city when I got back to London, and I discovered a Regeneration masterplan report proposed by the local Council in 2011. This plan suggests that followng: “the redevelopment of Stoke Town has the potential to create 500 jobs over the next 5 years and attract £25m in investment. The Council is providing £1m for remediation works and a further £2m for the wider town centre.”

Four years after this publication, I am not sure how many of its grand plans have been realised. As far as I could see, the former Spode works and its surrounding area still look dilapidated, and the same goes for the city centre or cultural district. So what happened to this master plan? Was it lack of funding that obstructed the regeneration?

I have never been to Detroit before, but I have a feeling that Stoke on Trent is the smaller and less drastic UK equalvalent of the US industrial capital that fell from grace. If Detroit is able to slowly bounce back from bankrupcy, then there is still hope for Stoke on Trent to thrive again as UK’s pottery capital.

The trip has been an eye-opening experience for me, and like most Londoners, I probably take things for granted and I tend to forget that London does not represent the rest of the country. It is a real shame that most of the foreign and government’s investments focus mostly on already wealthy cities like London, Bristol and Manchester etc. Shockingly, regional inequality in the UK is said to be the worst in Western Europe according to Eurostat, the data agency of the European Union. Many parts of UK are at least 20% poorer than the EU average, and the Shropshire and Staffordshire region (including Stoke on Trent) was named the 6th poorest in the UK in 2014. The gap between the richest and the poorest is growing at an alarmingly rate since this Government took office in 2011.

Now, I really want to ask David Cameron one question, “What happened to your grand vision of the BIG society?

 

Autumn in Paris

La Seine  La Seine

La Seine

 

I had originally planned to visit Maison et objet, the mega design trade show in Paris at the beginning of September. Yet an unexpected event happened at home and I decided to postpone by trip by about a month.

I wasn’t quite mentally prepared for the trip, but the beauty of Paris completely captivated me and made me forget about my anguish. It was when I was walking along the river Seine that I realised I had forgotten how breathtakingly beautiful Paris is. As much as I enjoy walking along the Thames in London, it just doesn’t feel the same… Paris’ scenery and ambience stimulate people’s imagination and it evokes people to sit down and start drawing or write poems spontaneously; it is no wonder that the city has nurtured so many famous artists and writers for more than a century.

 

La Seine  La Seine

La Seine  La Seine

La Seine

La Seine  La Seine

The sights and activities along the river Seine

 

Although everyone thinks that Paris is a city for lovers, I felt extremely content walking along the river alone. I don’t view solitude as a negative state, in fact, there are times when solitude is necessary in order for us to absorb the sublime surroundings.

 

La Seine  La Seine

La Seine  La Seine

La Seine

Paris’ sunset

 

The glorious and sunny days made a huge impact on the trip. It made me feel joyful and relaxed walking around the city, and I almost didn’t want the trip to end!

 

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paris

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In the Palais Royal garden, there was a temporary exhibition of large stone sculptures and installations; it was wonderful to stroll and admire these art works while the sun was out.

 

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palais royal garden  palais royal garden

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palais royal garden  palais royal garden

The Palais Royal Gardens and temporary stone sculptures and installations

 

The short trip simply reminds me that there is no place like Paris. And whether you are here alone or with a lover/partner or family, it would be difficult not be allured by the magic of this city.

 

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paris

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Tokyo street life

Tokyo

 

People-watching is my favourite pastime when I travel. I enjoy immersing myself in the surroundings and observing the quirks and odd sights. Sometimes being an outsider enables you to notice interesting sightings that are often neglected by the locals. What is ‘norm’ to the locals may be fascinating to the outsiders, our perceptions of our surroundings tend to change as we become more familiar with them, making us less aware and less curious over time.

I believe that traveling grants us opportunities to refresh our senses, embrace the unknown, generate new insights; and hopefully, see our familiar world with fresh eyes when we return.

 

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The enduring allure of traditional kimonos

 

Tokyo is spellbinding because it is full of contradictions and it is unlike any other cities in the world. It is technologically advanced in many ways, and yet very traditional at the same time. And these contradictions are palpable in the streets… from fashion to architecture, it is the contrasts that the city so intriguing.

In this day and age, there are not many modern women who would choose to wear traditional costumes as their preferred dress code. In most East Asian countries, the younger generation is more interested in Western trends and fashion; yet it is in Japan that I still come across women of different ages wearing kimonos on the streets.

I think the traditional kimono is beautiful, and it has an enduring allure that stands the test of time. When I see a Japanese woman in kimono in the street, I become transfixed by its exquisiteness and versatility. It can be youthful, glamourous, elegant, sophisticated or subtle; and it conveys the unique qualities and characteristics of each individual. The Chinese cheongsam has a similar effect (think Maggie Cheung in “In the mood for love”), yet we seldom see it being worn nowadays except in tacky Chinese restaurants!

 

yanaka yanakacycling Tokyotokyo yanakaman reading school kids tokyoshibuya

 

Whilst many visitors like to visit popular shopping areas like Shibuya, Ginza and Shinjuku. I prefer to spend time wandering (and getting lost) around the laidback and maze-like Yanaka and other less touristy districts. I am a flâneur at heart, and if I have unlimited time in Tokyo, I would idle my time away in the streets everyday.

 

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Top: The bustling Shinjuku district; 2nd to 4th & 6th rows: Nihonbashi

 

In recent years, an area that has been going through some regeneration is Nihonbashi, one of the oldest districts in Tokyo. The area has the most stunning art deco style department stores in Tokyo, traditional crafts shops and architecture. Now with the new Coredo shopping complex, the vibe of the area has changed significantly, and the ubiquitous cranes also indicate that more changes are on their way.

 

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Man-made ‘nature’ on the streets

 

The Japanese generally prefer their cities looking pristine and tidy, so the global street art/graffiti phenomenon has not affected Tokyo as much as other major international cities. However, in some trendy areas like Harajuku, Shibuya and Meguro, you may be lucky to come across something interesting if you look hard enough. If you are interested in the city’s graffiti scene, then check out Tokyo Graffiti index to locate the works.

 

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Bottom two rows: Graffiti in Shibuya

 

In Japan, sometimes unexpected art may occur when we look down on the pavements! The Japanese have managed to turn the unappealing manhole covers into works of art in the last few decades. In different prefectures, you would find specifically designed manhole covers, and many of them are inspired by flowers or local spots of natural beauty. The concept is a wonderful way to make the streets more attractive and a surprisingly effective marketing tool!

 

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Pavement art… Manhole covers, station platform art and ceramic tiles depicting old Tokyo in Nihonbashi

 

Hong Kong on Istagram

I have been using Instagram on and off for a while now, but on this trip to Asia, I decided to use Instagram as the main social media outlet. It has been fun, but also slightly addictive.

I think Hong Kong is a beguiling city to be photographed; and during my stay, I used Instagram as a tool to capture this chaotic and vibrant city. It is remarkable what a smartphone and some filters can do these days, and although these are not ‘professional’ standard, they do document the dynamics and the occasional tranquility in this city.

 

Sky

Hong kong sunsetHong kong fog Hong kong sunset

 

Nature & countryside

 

Hong Kong Hong KongHong Kong bamboo forest Hong Kong treeHong Kong hong kong wishing tree

 

Cityscape & architecture

 

hong kong ferry ride hong konghong kong skyscrapper Cattle Depot Artist VillageHong kong design institute Hong kong design institutetong lau tong lauhong kong bamboo hong kong bamboo

 

Street life & people

 

hong kong street printer hong kongwan chai marketwan chai market hong kong Hong Kong hong kong laundry day  hong kong hong kong broomsstar ferry hong kong

 

Art & exhibitions

 

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Shopping 

 

harbey nichols shop window stationery shophong kong vintage shophong kong medicine paper designer bagshong kong masks

 

Dining

 

hong kong street food sammy's kitchen coffee shop hong kong locofama

 

Streetscape of Lisbon

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I don’t believe in love at first sight; lust or instant attraction perhaps, whereas love I believe requires time to develop. Nonetheless, I have fallen in love with many cities on my first visit throughout the years, like New York, Berlin, Venice, Antwerp, Tokyo, Helsinki, Porto and Lisbon etc. My relationships with these cities would change over time (if I get to return again), and my ‘love’ would increase or decrease based on my experiences and expectations.

Even though Lisbon is an international and cosmopolitan city, it somehow still retains the charm (thankfully, not provincial) of a smaller city. It is laid-back (or ‘slow’ compared to New York/London), hospitable, retro and slightly run-down. It lacks glitz and glamour, yet its characteristics shine through, which makes it feel somewhat authentic and honest.

I think Lisbon reminds of the old London, a time when Londoners were more individualistic, creative, effortless and laid-back ( yes, I am sounding more like an old fart these days). London has undoubtedly lost its edge and charm in the past decade or so; although it is more cosmopolitan and ‘happening’ these days, it is also more stressful, commercial, crowded, trend-driven and segregated. This is not what I consider as ‘cool’ or as the Mayor relentlessly proclaims: ‘the greatest cities on earth’.

 

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To appreciate Lisbon fully, it is necessary to walk (mostly uphill) or take the tram. You are unlikely to get bored because there is always something quirky or interesting that would grab your attention.

 

Je suis charlie Lisbon Je suis charlie LisbonJe suis charlie Lisbon

 

When I arrived in Lisbon, it was just days after the Charlie Hebdo terrorist attack took place, and I could see the conspicuous ‘support’ shown by the citizens of Lisbon in the streets at different areas of the city.

 

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The Portuguese also share something in common with Asian people esp. the Chinese, and it is their habit of hanging laundry outdoor! The sights of laundry being hung outside of houses/ flats/ even on the pavements are ubiquitous in China, yet similar sights can be seen on the streets of Lisbon and Porto. Though what is surprising is how meticulous these articles are being hung… often according to sizes, categories and sometimes even colours! I think the Portuguese are qualified to publish books on the art of laundry hanging!

 

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I am aware that the economical downturn has hit Portugal hard, and when I spoke to the locals, they complained that many young people have moved to cities like London for better job opportunities. I guess this is understandable. Nevertheless, I believe that when the economy of a city/country suffers, it also empowers the citizens to unite, think more creatively and contribute more towards the community or society as a whole for improvements.

And being an artistic and cultural city like Lisbon, one of the best way to express the citizens’ frustrations, disappointments, aspirations, passion and creativity is through art… namely street art, which I will cover in my next entry.

 

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Winter sun seeking in London

london sunset

 

The idea of sun seeking in London esp. in the winter sounds as mad as a hatter. Whenever I travel abroad and tell people that I live in London, they usually would grin and say something as follows: “Nice city but miserable weather” or “Is it foggy and rainy all the time?”. No matter how much I try to convince them otherwise, they would still look skeptical and doubtful as if I am taking them for a ride!

Since my words fail to convince the skeptics, I hope these photos taken within the last few weeks would do London/ London’s weather some justice! It is true that we would frequently experience grey and wet weather, but there are also days when the sky is blue, the air is crisp and the sun is shining bright.

 

hampstead sunsetLondon skylineLondon sunset london sunset 

 

Like most Londoners or Brits, I also love to moan about the weather occasionally because that is our habit or an effective ice breaker as conversation starter. We simply cannot help it because our weather seems to play a key role in our lives for some bizarre reason. Yet despite our complaints, admittedly, I am rather fond of the English weather. I like the fact that it is unpredictable, relatively mild and it has four distinctive seasons. And I think many Brits would share my paradoxical view towards our weather.

I honestly believe that I would be bored of seeing the sun everyday if I were to live in somewhere like S.E.Asia when the weather is so predictable and lacks seasonal transitions. And when compared to other countries in the northern hemisphere, we are lucky that we rarely experience extreme conditions in summers and winters. Our heatwaves are usually temporary, and snow is a seldom seen sight in the south eastern and south western part of the UK. There are no significant earthquakes, tsunamis, typhoons and hurricanes; though storms, droughts and floods are becoming more frequent due to climate change.

 

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The joy of having unpredictable weather is that we would cherish the sun more after several gloomy and wet days. We would appreciate the rain after a few weeks of heatwave as it would clear the mucky and humid air. Perhaps it also enables us to be more receptive to changes, and accept that we can’t predict or control external factors… in weather and in life.

 

hampstead sunset

 

I am unashamed to admit that I am a London sun seeker esp. during the winter. To witness the wonders of sunsets is always an awe-inspiring moment for me. The winter sunset time in London is usually between 3-4pm, and remarkably I have witnessed many stunning sunsets against the backdrop of urban landscape or tree silhouette this winter. These evanescent moments not only enable me to appreciate the beauty of nature, but I also feel grateful to be alive to observe a natural phenomenon that we often take for granted. And for a change, being a ‘sun seeker’ or ‘sun worshiper’ is no longer an embarrassing term when it is used in this context.

 

Manchester’s past & present

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Bridgewater canal in Castlefield

 

Like human beings, all cities have their own characteristics, memories and energies. Having lived in several major cities at different stages of my life, I have come to realised that some cities’ energies and mine just don’t blend well (possibly to do with feng shui?). There are cities that I find inspiring and uplifting, yet there are some that I find depressing and draining. Whenever I am in a city, I’d like to play the role of an outsider (even in London), because it allows me to detach myself and observe the city and its people more objectively. I want to use my senses to perceive a city… the architecture, urban landscape, smell, pollution, colours, people’s facial expression, behaviour and fashion are all details that we can easily miss if we don’t pay attention to them.

Cities are constantly evolving, some of their histories may have been forgotten or be buried underground, but their intrinsic essence rarely changes over a short period of time or even after major disasters (e.g. New York). Most importantly though, it is the citizens who largely contribute to the collective energy of a city.

 

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Although Manchester’s city centre is vibrant and bustling, I regard the historical Castlefield as the ‘soul’ of the city. Not only this is the birth place of the city, it is also said to be the start of the industrial revolution because of the arrival of Bridgewater Canal, the world’s first industrial canal built in 1764, commissioned by by Francis Egerton, 3rd Duke of Bridgewater.

Since I was staying in the area, I decided to stroll along the canal in the morning. The vibe was calm and subdued, very different from the hustle and bustle vibe in the centre. I was fascinated by the varied styles of railway and foot bridges here, and while standing under them, I began to imagine when this place was full of activities and working people. I could sense the history here, many untold stories seemed to be hidden underneath these massive steel bridges and old warehouses.

 

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Another historical part of Greater Manchester is Salford on the other side of River Irwell. However, the area has suffered from high-levels of unemployment and social issues for decades, and even the recent regeneration scheme has had many setbacks. Wandering on the edge of Salford, I was surprised by the slightly rundown and quiet streets. Like Castlefield, there is a big contrast between this part of the city and the centre, but again, one could sense its historical past.

I was particularly intrigued by the facade of a historical-looking pub tucked away on a desolate back street called Eagle Inn (also known as The Lamp Oil). Later, I found out that the pub dates back to 1848 at its current site, and it is housed inside a Grade II listed building from 1903. In recent years, the pub was under-threat due to the regeneration of the area; luckily it was saved and the interior of the pub has since been restored, with the cottage next door being converted into a live music venue.

 

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The streets surrounding the pub look rather derelict, but I found them more interesting than the glossy buildings in the centre. These derelict sites tend to capture my imagination, they trigger my curiosity about the histories and stories behind them. I once read that people’s interests in derelict or abandoned places or ruins are related to our own mortality. Perhaps so. I think we are all subconsciously (or consciously) aware that whatever possessions we own will inevitably be destroyed, lost, disintegrated or be given away one day. These places remind us that nothing will last forever.

 

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Like humans, cities may experience prosperity and declines throughout their existence. Countless cities had been destroyed throughout history due to human destructions or natural disasters, yet many ancient cities have miraculously survived too. Cities are never static; buildings and roads are constantly being constructed or rebuilt, people come and go daily, and they all silently leave their visible or invisible imprints behind. Cities are fascinating because everything is man-made; and behind each creation, there is at least one human story to be told.

I have come across many cities that feel utterly ‘soulless’, but Manchester is certainly not one of them. And I believe it is the many human stories behind this city that make it special and enticing.

 

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 Street art in Manchester

 

Street life in Paris

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This summer, a few overseas friends who visited both Paris and London told me that they enjoyed London much more than Paris. When I asked them the reasons, they said that the streets of Paris feel unsafe and chaotic, whereas London feels more vibrant and safer. I wasn’t surprised by this as I have also noticed that Paris is not what it used to be anymore, hence, I have not had the urge to cross the Channel in the last two years. Interestingly, new figures also suggest that London has beaten Paris, to become the world’s most popular city for tourists.

However, Paris is still one of most beautiful cities in the world and it is always inspirational, so it would hard for me to stay away from it for long. And since I know the city quite well, I try to stay away from touristy spots, so my experiences would most likely differ from my friends’. And somehow, as a Londoner, I feel the need to defend Paris because I think the city still has certain characteristics and charms that London lacks…

First of all, I think Paris is a more walkable city than London because it is much smaller and easier to navigate. I love walking in Paris because it is like a living museum. Aside from the beautiful historical architecture and inspiring shop window display, you can always find something intriguing on the streets including the following:

Art & dogs – Random art pieces (see above) and anything related to dogs…

 

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People – Parisians are actually not as unfriendly as people imagine, in fact, I have come across many friendly people. And for me, the best places for people watching are food markets and parks…

 

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Architecture & landmarks – On the surface, historical buildings seem to dominate Paris’ cityscape, yet new contemporary architecture is being added ‘discreetly’ in recent years. However, these new buildings are not as obvious and as imposing as the ones in London, you will need to seek out them out amongst the old (which I will write about in one of my next few entries)…

 

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Markets – I love food markets esp. in Paris where I can spend hours just wandering… I love the colours, smell, variety of food on offer and the interactions between shoppers and with the stall vendors…

 

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Graffiti and street art– In one of my old entries, I have mentioned about Paris’ graffiti and street art scene, and like London, it is now part of the urban landscape. Nuisance or art, it’s up to you to decide…

 

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Not only Paris has more elegant looking Vélib’ bikes ( compare to Boris‘ more masculine bikes in London) with their bike sharing scheme, they also have Autolib‘, an electric car sharing service that was launched as a complement to Vélib’ in 2011 ( a scheme which will also be introduced in London soon). With the wide boulevards, Paris streets are definitely safer to cycle than London, though what you need to be careful of is the mad and quick-tempered drivers!

 

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On a more serious note, both London and Paris have their issues of homelessness. While the British government has recently launched ‘stricter’ rules to combat the issue due to an increase of Eastern Europeans entering the country; the French Government has adopted a more tolerant attitude and so homelessness is becoming more problematic all over France.

It is hard to avoid begging gypsies with their young children in the centre of Paris, and even temporary street dwellings are on the rise. According to a memorial book compiled by campaign group “Les Morts de la Rue” (Dead in the Streets), a total of 453 homeless people died on the streets of France last year, and the numbers are likely to increase unless some drastic measures are put in place to tackle the problem.

This issue has even been highlighted in a multi-award winning short film directed by Bernard Tanguy. Je pourrais être votre grandmère ( I could be your grandmother) is inspired by a true story of a young business lawyer, Joël Catherin, who helped and wrote hundreds of cardboard signs for the homeless people in his posh Paris neighbourhood. You can watch the short film below (though there is no English subtitles):

 

Je pourrais être votre grand-mère (2010), directed by Bernard Tanguy

 

To be continued…